jgsdf type 10
 

While most of the assembly has gone along swimmingly, I ran into an issue last night. Installed the cannon onto the turret lower, and then went to install the front, upper piece of the turret. Let me tell you now, I would rather have left the mantlet off and slid it on afterwards. Anyway, after some wrangling and cursing I managed to get it down and into place, only to find that it dosen't sit flush on the lower piece of the turret. There are gaps at the front. Then, just to get an idea of the whole thing, I slid the turret rear portion on as well. It doesn't fit, either. Well, not well. Not what I'd expect from Tamiya. Pics below. Ideas appreciated..

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...00de2ed573.jpg

It's not screwed down in this picture, but IMHO it shouldn't need screws to hold it in contact. I've checked for stray wires/etc, I don't see any points of interference anywhere. I should mention that if I try with the gun not installed, it sits nice and flush.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ac1456497f.jpg

The rear of the removable part of the turret is flush against the back of the turret bottom. Everything else appears to be lined up correctly.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...881113b913.jpg

Mine is not quite perfect either, honestly the front nose of the turret and main gun mantlet was the only tricky part of the entire build, I did what I could to get it as close as possible.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e1ccb913b8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c34b33808f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4438db2cad.jpg

Weathering always helps

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...5cb0e7cf70.jpg

Excellent job there, looks just like most videos of the Type 10 in maneuvers, rain marks and washed off dirt.

Being familiar with the Gun Elevation System from my L2A7+ it looks like gluing the Top Front to the Bottom to close the gaps is not an option as otherwise servicing the GES becomes impossible as the top barres access to the screws holding the sintered bearings.
My best guess into solving that problem would be to firmly tape the parts together for the gaps to close under the tapes tension and then dunk the entire front section into hot ( not boiling! ) water causing the stress to be relieved.
If that is not enough then you may have to disassemble them again and ever so slightly "overbend" them ( again with hot water ) so they'll relax into a position where they're naturally closing the gap.

As for the huge gap between the Front and Rear Section... Is that with the in Step 49 mentioned Mechanism Deck ( MD ) and all the Magnets on it and the removable Rear Section present?
Is the MD properly installed? As in the protrusions coming from the lower Turret Section going into the cavities of the MD being properly seated?
Can you show us a picture where the bottom of the still detached turret with both the all-around seam between the top and bottom and the gap between the front and rear are present at the same time?

So now I'm wondering if I don't need to adjust the screws, in the top turret section, that serve as attachment points for the magnets. That might get rid of some of the gap, and I note that the turret top doesn't sit flat on the platform. So I'll play with that and see what happens. When I feel up to getting out to the shop, that is... picked up a case of the Covid and it's got me a little undermotivated to do stuff...

Kinda missed the opportunity to ask but do the Tamiya #56036 TYPE 10 and #56040 M1A2 Abrams have both a Turret and Gun Stabilizer or is it just the Turret?
The #56020 Leopard 2A6 had neither by default but at least the option of installing an optional Gunbarrel Stabilizer Unit which reviewers bashed as subpar.
YouTube Videos only ever show the Turret Stabilizing function - Never the presence of a Gun Stabilizer despite it already having existed as an Addon 🤔

If they do have a Gun Stabilizer, how's the performance compared to the aftermarket 2-Axis Stabilizer I installed into my 2A7+?

Both the Type10 and Abrams have a gun stability system as well as “turret lock”. Which is where the turret maintains a set direction as the tank turns.

I assume they're both toggled on/off via a shared ↑↑↓↓←→←→AB Stick/Trimmer command?
How does the built in Gun Stabilizer perform in the wilds? Still as bad with the Gunbarrel Stabilizer Unit or have they stepped up their game?

I haven't checked out the gun stabilization yet, but the turret point function works just dandy. I don't think I noticed any mention of stabilization in the operations manual, but I'll eyeball it when I'm out there in a bit.

Its not bad when you are driving the tank slow and deliberately over undulating terrain. But as speed picks up the stability system has a hard time keeping up with the motion of the tank.

I use the system if I am doing a demo for visual effects in front of people not familiar with RC tanks. Otherwise I rarely use it and especially not during IR battles. It actually adds more work to driving and aiming.

So I played with the 4 screws, on the bottom of the turret top, that actually mate to the magnets on the turret lower. Fit is much better... much, much better. I kind of figured it would be something stupid like that... now I'm going to let it sit here on the bookshelf for a week or two while I decide what to do about camo... not that there are many options in that department.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...202e0c5906.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...45efe0c563.jpg


I did try out my new airbrush the other day...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c35806f5c7.jpg

What kind of airbrush did you get? About 12 years ago they had a sale and I bought an Iwata hp/cs with the quick release handle kit and I haven't looked back. Greatest little airbrush I've ever owned.
Right now I have two jagdpanthers, so I was thinking about listing one in the classified section, it's the one they advertised as the cheetah and it probably doesn't have more than an hour of run time on it, I was thinking about putting it up at $300 plus actual shipping costs, do you think that would be a good deal? It's basically brand new, I haven't even attached all the accessories that come with it, they're still on the sprue. Think it would sell quickly? It has the HL 6.1 system in it. At least I think it's the 6.1, you can turn the lights on and off from the transmitter, wasn't that a feature that didn't arrive until the 6.1 or newer?

Good to see you managed to close the Gap - Would have been really surprised to see Tamiya pull such a mistake 😁

Pretty sure the only acceptable moments to use a brush in a scale models' lifetime is when slathering on the white stripe to a WWII Russian Tank and when applying the Ambush Dots to a WWII German Tank as such Airbrush all the way... ( and well... Figure Painting )

• My first one was a Revell 20.- Pressurized Can model - A better than brush but still an overall horrible experience.
• My second one was a Multiple Nozzles Aztek behaving like Tupperware into which you've put Tomato Soup - That Aztek will never look brand new again.
• My third to fifth are now Tamiya ones ( probably rebranded Iwata ) of varying sizes all of which I had to import from Japan for a more reasonable ( ⅓ ) price and so far, haven't looked back.

The Aztek and Tamiya ones have all been operated by a Wiltec AS196 Compressor - It works when it works but I'd be lying if I wouldn't admit it having some issues with the Silicone Check Valve causing it to constantly run whenever it leaks which is why I'm now considering a Stahlwerk ST-918 BL Brushless Model.

Probably a 6.0 and not a 6.1 as the 6.1 has servo outputs. Ebay has a few Jagdpanthers in the US for sale with plastic running gear and steel gearboxes for around $235 shipped.

$235 isn't a bad price for a plastic tank, but mine has metal tracks, metal road wheels with rubber tires and metal suspension arms. I do believe that adds considerably to the price. They still sell the model I have on ebay, but now they want closer to $400 for it. But, given how lazy I've become over the last couple years I'll probably never get around to posting it anyway. I also have a panther G with all plastic running gear so I just might swap the metal stuff over to the panther G and just keep the now all plastic JP as a kind of beater tank. A hooptie, if you will. :cool:

As for airbrushes, I'm afraid I have become a die-hard iwata fan. It really is the best airbrush I've ever had, and I've had most of them, badger, pasche, aztec, etc, etc. I got mine at Hobby Lobby with the 40% off coupon so it ended up costing me about $120, plus another $40 for the quick release handle kit, which is a feature that once experienced you don't want to live without. When it comes to color changes and cleaning the quick release needle makes things sooo much easier. I know they're not the cheapest airbrushes out there but sometimes it really is true, you get what you pay for. If a person can afford it, I will always, always recommend the Iwata airbrushes. I realized that this is just my opinion, but I've been building static models and using airbrushes of one brand or another for over 50 years now, and I truly believe that anyone who has experienced the Iwata airbrushes will never settle for anything less after that. To me it's kind of like buying tools, if you buy high quality tools to start with you should never have to buy them again.

Not sure about the Hen Long question, been a few years since I owned one.

I bought a Pasche Talon airbrush, nothing too fancy, but it seems to do the trick.

It came as a kit with a Paasche branded compressor, which so far has worked perfectly. We'll see how it holds up in a year or so...

Good decision, I'm sure it will hold up just fine, that's a quality brand that you bought with a very good reputation. Probably every bit as good as an iwata, but you know how it is with brand names, some of us find one we like and stick with it.

You didn't specify the metal running gear which is why I specified the plastic for that price. I would agree the all metal running gear at $300 plus shipping would be a good deal for someone.

I have a Paache Talon also and I've had a few issues with it. It seems to be a royal PITA to keep clean and adjusted right. I actually picked up a cheapo $12 Harbor Freight one with the interchangeable bottles to do things like priming/lacquering so I don't have to mess with the Talon. Since the paint doesn't touch anything on the Harbor Freight there is zero cleanup if I leave the paint in the bottle and seal it up. I went all out and got a California Airtools compressor that I love. It is overkill, but quiet as hell and doesn't recharge very often when using it:

I think mine is one of the few with a fictional scheme:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0d69e240b.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1ff4abbcc.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9f5690efd.jpeg

Nice!