Tamiya paint question
 

Hi,
I'm restarting my Tiger I Tamiya 1/16 RC model project, and have a question I hope someone is able to help with.
Thanks in advance.


I have previously painted the road wheels and hull with XF-60, and then flat clear coated with Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear coat. I want to use XF-88 dark yellow 2, instead ... because I think the XF-60 turned out too dark. Am I ok to spray XF-88 over top of the TS-80 Flat Clear coat?

Dave

Should be fine. If you are worried about it, you can always strip the paint off using something like oven cleaner (don't use on the rubber) or I've used some "Super Clean" degreaser from Walmart that I soaked mini's in overnight. It didn't harm the plastic and it removed even the enamel paint. Use gloves for either product.

You might want to rub it with a bit of scotchbrite and then wipe it with some wax and grease remover, just to make sure the new paint bites in well.

Thanks tankme and Crius for your feedback.
Your comments make me realize that I shouldn't take any risk of ruining my Tiger. The XF-60 looks good, but think I'd prefer XF-88 ... but only if there is a zero percent chance of things getting goofed up.

I understand the concern, but....it's also a tank. If you've ever been to a museum and looked closely at the finish....it's not great. If you've ever seen a real operational tank...the finish isn't good. Runs, overspray, primer showing through...all things I've seen on tanks. Any tank that sits outside will fade in different levels. It is your tank and ultimately your decision, just know that most tank people will look at it and think it was done on purpose or it will get covered up with dirt/dust.

I bought scotch-brite pads today, and XF-88, as well, other paints.
Going to scuff up the already painted parts, clean, and then repaint with XF-88, etc.

Thanks for comments and info here at the forum ... it helped me reboot this project :)

I talked with a local hobby shop owner (where I bought the paints), and he also recommended the above procedure for repainting.

Also, anyone know if there is one of these "Tiger I" Mid Production turret vents available in USA? The one I am using now is not very detailed.

https://www.rctank.de/High-End-Tiger...-made-of-metal

The German army carriied blocks of paint in the Tank and sometimes they had access to a spray gun but usually the block was broken down with gasoline and painted on with brooms and hand brushes or rags the finish was crude but it was almost always temporary until it went into the workshop where it would get a decent paint job.

Thanks jarndice,
I've read that too, and also seen photos of crew spray painting.

My model is based on tank 311 of 101st SS heavy panzer battalion Normandy. There were five Mid production Tigers (in 101st) with travel lock and similar attributes.Mid tanks with travel lock: 5 => 131, 132, 311, 321, 331.

Questions:
1. Looking at the below linked photos, do you think their camo paint was applied with a spray gun (soft edge) or brush (hard line)?
2. I've read (and it appears) that 3rd company did not paint their gun barrels. They were left black/grey. Anyone know a Tamiya paint mix that could best represent this black color?

Tiger 331
Attachment 2274299

Tiger 321
https://www.reddit.com/r/europe/comm..._heavy_panzer/

Tiger 311
Attachment 2274300



Attachment 2274299

Attachment 2274301

You can use ispropyl (rubbing) alcohol to remove most Tamiya paints without hurting the plastic.

Thanks

Try to avoid Tamiyas Acrylic (Isopropyl) thinners it is far too expensive, Buy it on line or from your pharmacy.in 500ml or 1 litre sizes.

The key to tamiya acrylics is the grade of alcohol used, isopropyl alcohol (also called Isopropanol or rubbing alcohol) comes from the pharmacy in various grades anywhere from 50% to 95% alcohol, the rest being water. I recommend the 90+% as the excess water can be an issue. Water evaporates slower than the alcohol, so when the paint film is drying and the alcohol evaporates you end up with pigment, resin and water. Since the resin is not compatible with the water without the alcohol you get water and resin domains (think how oil and water do not mix, and drops of water in oil) which provide poor quality, since in some areas you only have pigment and water without resin holding the system together. The alcohol evaporation rate is based on the temperature, while water evaporation rate is based on temperature and humidity. This issue of water remaining in the film during film formation is worse if you are painting when the humidity is higher. I also recommend you use the minimum alcohol possible, as excess solvent can lead to other coatings issues. If you are spraying and add alcohol, adjust the air to paint ratio for the best atomization to evaporate most of the solvent before it hits the part. One day I should make a video on painting and paint technology.

Thanks jarndice and Elwarpo.
I've already bought X-20A for this project. I'll keep your tips if mind for future stuff.

TS paints are very hot and not affected by IPA (brake fluid for 2 days does work on them tho, thats how i strip them without killing the plastic). i should clarify for posterity. once you compromise the paint with a long dot3 bath ipa can help clean up residue but on a well painted, dried and sealed up parts, ipa wont do much at all.

the said the flat clear TS is a weird one.. its soft and not very resilient. just sand over it quickly with a sanding pad like 600grit from tamiya and repaint. its what i do, never any issues. the issues come when you lay TS after the acrylic, but only if you do heavy wet coats using gloss clear

Thanks for the info ... that is the plan :)
It's been helpful to hear from several sources that, lightly sanding the flat clear coat, then repaint ... is doable.