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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
In this post, you can talk about Tamiya tanks, especially new upcoming models like the Abrams (hopefully) which would go head to head with the Leopard. A modern Russian tank would be nice also T-80-90.[8D] my first smiley
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Kurtmeyer
Found a new low price for a new Leopard http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=10349 I've never used them before,. located in Hong Kong. calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Um, nice tank (blah, blah, blah), what do you want, a pat on the back??? [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
But... I admire the pictures the most. Your willingness to get down to scale eye level, or down and dirty, to take those pictures sells the Leopard to me the most. I like the challenge of trying to figure out if your tank is a 1/16 "toy" or the real thing. You've made a spectacular effort on account of your pictures alone. -Harq |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I ordered a new idler system for the Leopard from Backyard armor thinking that the Tamiya two position idler wasn’t that good, that’s when I first got the kit and was my first impression. This new system, which cost 33.50 and does not come with idler wheels, doesn’t fit. It’s about 20% bigger than the opening in the hull. Whoever makes this thing wants you to file/cut the opening so that their idler system can fit. This company (Elite Armor Productions & Schumo Kits) is too lazy to take accurate measurements/molds so that the idlers would fit in the first place, and most importantly, I am not going to cut or file into the lower hull. As I have showed, the Leopard is as dirt/mud/sand proof as you can make an RC Tank, I will not compromise hull integrity just to add some overpriced and worthless third party crap. Back to the Tamiya idlers, I’ve unscrewed them 10 times and the idlers are as secure as ever, they show no signs of weakness. I will not be buying any more third party parts, the Leopard doesn’t need them.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Awesome photos! I would love to see a video though...[&:]
On the mention of Tamiya's new tank, the one I'd like to see them do would be T34/85... |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
is this tank worth the money?i have the sherman and the pershing...i was just wondering...
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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
what screens did u use for thegrills on the back?
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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
1 Attachment(s)
Seconded. Modern Russian tanks are poorly represented in the R/C market. Would prefer a T-72 because they have such a history in conflict but T-80 and 90 are basically improvements of the T-72. The T-72 is kind of sexy and low slung like a sports car but also very workmanlike, easy to maintain and as far as the drivetrain and mechanicals goes, very tough and reliable to a fault.
T72 Balkans On Fire! ftp://ftp.battlefront.com/pub/misc/T...20Movement.wmv -Harq |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Yes, its worth the money. It has a lot more parts than the other kits, especially screws, its one of the few complaints I have about this kit, there are too many metal screws that go into plastic parts. Also pay very close attention when assembling the gearbox. Its a pain to put together but when its done, you'll be glad you bought the Leopard, its very powerful, beautiful to look at, a joy to run outside in dirt. Oh, and make sure you get the correct adhesives, this kit is made out of at least three different plastics, I have been using Model Maker Plastic CA glue from Tower Hobbies and most importantly, this http://www.hobby-lobby.com/adhesive.htm Stabilit Express and UHU allplast, or you may have your own glues that you use but normal model glue won't work on this kit.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
The grills are photo etched parts, they come with the kit.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
A T-72 would be a welcome addition to the RC line, giving the Leopard some real opposition, just think of the endless modifications/scrath building possibilities, with ERA armor, Soviet version, Iraq 91 version, you are correct, the T-72 would be the modern Russian tank of choice, plus its seen combat.
As far as WWII models go, yea a T-34 would be nice, but how about the 122mm JS III? calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I just joined this discussion forum, becase I have purchased a Leopard 2A6 and have nearly finished it. I LOVE IT. It was such a thrill when I first started it up. It's a very impressive model tank. I had a lot of modeling experience from my earlier years, but it was still a challenge to build. Very much worth it, though.
I am still finishing it up, but I have a couple of problems/questions that maybe one of the more experienced Leopard drivers in the group can help me with. First, I bought the separate optional gun stabilizer unit and installed it according to the manual, but it does not seem to be working. Apparently, the gun elevation servo has to be modified for it to work, but I have no idea what that means or how I would go about doing that. Second, and this is a bit embarrassing: the Leopard does everything it is supposed to do beautifully, except one very important thing -- I can't get it to turn and pivot. I don't know if there is a disconnect between the transmitter and the tank, or maybe the transmitter is not programmed right. Or maybe there is (already) something wrong with the tank's motor. But the tank goes forward and backward just fine -- it just won't pivot or turn. Can anyone help me? Please! Also, I live in Rockville, Maryland, and wonder whether there are any tankers nearby. Thanks! |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
The problem must be with circuit board or other RC components, because if you can go forward and reverse, that means both of the motors are running ok for both directions.
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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I know that must be frustrating. You might want to send a pm (personal message) to Calvinwill, Tomzag or Sownare. I am pretty sure that one of them will get back to you with some ideas. Just click on their name where they have posted replies and it will take you to a profile page, which has a pm link.
Jason |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Thank you very much, Gaizokubanou and icecreamslick. It is incredibly frustrating, to have it working so well in every way except this one. And it is such a great tank. I feel like my Leopard falls well within the theme for this thread: "Leopard in MUD"!
Once again this evening I started to look at it again, checking some of the connectors and so forth. But I just can't figure out what the problem is. I rechecked the manual and one of the motors is a dedicated steering motor, the motor on the right side of the tank. There has to be some problem there. It may be a problem with the cable connections under the hull, but I don't want to open up the hull [:'(] unless I absolutely have to. I will try to contact the guys you mention; in fact I already emailed tomzag today. Tomorrow I am going to try to speak with Gary Demory of Tamiya USA. Thanks once again everybody. |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I have some unpleasant news for you, the problem is in the gearbox. Can you do me a favor, remove the gearbox out of the hull, remove the top cover and take a overhead (top looking down) photo of your gearbox and post it so I can have a look, don't worry, its not broken, just a part left out. Your Leo will be up and running shortly.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I've uploaded some photos of my 2 gearboxes http://www.pbase.com/calvinwill/leo_gearbox look carefully at and compare your gears to my photos, see if you have anything missing, you can't steer or pivot so the problem or missing piece would be in the steering motor half of the box.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Thanks for sharing! I have yet to get less then 3 hours running time with Venom 3600 sticks in my Heng Longs.
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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Thanks, calvinwill, for your help, and for the very helpful photos of your gearbox. You're right: there's no denying the unpleasant fact that I have to open the whole thing up. I will try to do that in the next couple of days and take a photograph for posting if I can't figure out the problem myself. But I was so careful with every part, every gear, that I can't imagine that I omitted anything. We'll find out soon enough.
Many, thanks. You guys are great. |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I bet there is a beveled gear that is flipped the wrong way.
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RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
I won’t be here Wed, Thurs or Fri, I have business in San Francisco and won’t be back until Sat, so lets assume that all gears are in place and there are no missing parts that you can see.
Can you get your instruction book, turn to page 13 and look at assembly 3, notice part MD4? It slips into shaft MJ1, then the hexagonal nut MH1 fits onto MJ1, which THEN slips into MD4 pin. If the MD4 pin falls out, then the MH1 nut won’t turn, thereby the Leopard won’t steer or pivot (the MG5 gear fits over MH1 nut), the shaft will spin, but not the MH1 nut. I suspect this is the problem with your gearbox. Make sure the pinion gear (part MC6) on the steering motor is flush with the spur gear. This has nothing to do with your Leopard, but mine. The very first time I ran my Leopard it would turn/pivot, but there was no forward/reverse, none at all! To make this short once I cooled down I grabbed my instruction book and noticed on page 13, in assembly 4 there was this MD4 pin that fit onto MH1, so I disassemble and removed MH1 nut only to find NO MD4[:@] , no MD4, no forward motion!! It had fallen out and I didn’t notice it. Once you find the problem and put the gearbox back into the hull, hook up the motors and try a test run to make sure everything works BEFORE attaching the upper hull. Oh and I forgot to answer your question about the Gun Stabilizer, theres a small instruction sheet that tells how to install the unit. You have to activate the Stabilizer every time you turn on the Leo, and the instructions are on the back. Calvinwil |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Wow, that is incredibly helpful, calvinwill. I will be sure to do exactly as you specify. It's really good to know that I am not the only one who has done something like this. And yes: good idea to make sure it works before putting the upper hull back on!
About the gun stabilizer unit, thank you. I did do everything the instructions indicated. But when I try to set it up according to the instruction manual, using the transmitter, I can never get it right, it seems. There is no electronic sound emitted, which the manual says is the signal that it's turned on. Does your stabilizer unit definitely work? Anyway, this is less serious and I am sure I will figure it out. I just want to get my Leo to turn! Thanks again for your fantastic ideas. Hopefully by the time your'e back on Saturday my Leo will be in business. |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Do you have a link to these DTX 3800 battery packs? I can't find them anywhere online. My VIS Trinity 3800s didn't last 1hr 15min in my TIger. Maybe it's my Radio Crap charger:D
Also, how much of a drain is the gun stabilizer unit on the battery? I am seriously considering one. It's just so sweet. |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
Here is the link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLVG2&P=0 as far as the stabilizers power use, its not much but then I have my stabilizer turned off most of the time, why? it won't function with my Futaba 7CAP PCM radio, everything else functions but the stabilizer, I have to use my 4 channel Futaba Attack AM radio in order for the unit to work, which just might be Leopard Drivers problem. I don't use the 4 channel am because of interference, plus in my opinion, am radios are obsolete. As for the DTX and any other of the new high capacity cells, you must use a QUALITY charger, preferably one of the new ones, I use this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEYD4&P=ML it takes approx 10-12 hours to fully charge the 3800.
calvinwill |
RE: 1/16 Leopard in MUD
i`m supprised to see that there is plastics gears in that tamiya (a6)
here is some pics of a real leo c1: http://www.campmapleleaf.org/reference_leopardC1.html |
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