Mugen MBX5T Engine
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Good Sunday everyone, I just got a Mugen MBX5T Prospec and was thinking of converting it BL but for now I'm going to stick with nitro...I was wondering was a good paired .28 engine that'll power this good and have at 10 minute run time...I
I was thinkig based off price LRP .28 spec motor or an Axial .28 spec S both with pull starts
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I was thinkig based off price LRP .28 spec motor or an Axial .28 spec S both with pull starts
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I have a ClockWork Racing Engines Picco JPX .21 in my Truggy and it is awesome. You can also get lower costing engines that are clocked to give max performance. These engines are wild!
http://www.clockworkracingengines.co...modded-engines
Cheers,
Glenn
http://www.clockworkracingengines.co...modded-engines
Cheers,
Glenn
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ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?

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ORIGINAL: Foxy
Truggy motors is a designation based on their powerband for the drivetrain of a truggy, lots of low end torque and very little up top. A racing engine will rape them across the whole powerband.
ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?

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ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
And whats your suggestion?
ORIGINAL: Foxy
Truggy motors is a designation based on their powerband for the drivetrain of a truggy, lots of low end torque and very little up top. A racing engine will rape them across the whole powerband.
ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?

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ORIGINAL: mrsheldon
I like the RB C6. The lrp.30 is a nice engine also
I like the RB C6. The lrp.30 is a nice engine also
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ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
I was just looking at the Picco .28 in a .21 case and also Dynamite Platinum .24 or .28...
I was just looking at the Picco .28 in a .21 case and also Dynamite Platinum .24 or .28...
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IROC, I'll be honest, I've been out of the truggy game too long to make a serious recommendation, but I am a huge fan of RB Concept engines. They are expensive as someone else mentioned, they are also usually tiresome to break in, but they are very very well designed, with balanced powerbands and pull strong. Treated right they will last a very long time too.
Of course for a proper racing engine you will have to use a starter box, as opposed to pull start or roto or anything like that. Although just lately, RB has been putting some of the other starter method backing plates on their mills.
I'd go for something like this if I didn't already have a ninja in my MBX5T PS... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug
One of the things I love about RB, is that they never publish their hp or rpm figures. The best have no need of bragging rights.
Of course for a proper racing engine you will have to use a starter box, as opposed to pull start or roto or anything like that. Although just lately, RB has been putting some of the other starter method backing plates on their mills.
I'd go for something like this if I didn't already have a ninja in my MBX5T PS... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug
One of the things I love about RB, is that they never publish their hp or rpm figures. The best have no need of bragging rights.

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Engine designer Rody Roem left RB some time ago and now markets his own engine brand. In order to gain market share, RB markets an engine line made in Taiwan. They still sell european made engines, but the quality may or may not be up to the old standards.
Things to consider. Unless tuning skills are somewhat developed, it's best not to spend big money on a motor. Any motor can be ruined with improper tuning and why learn on an expensive engine. Also to consider, there are few if any .28 engines that will run 10 minutes.
The Werks B5/B6 line of engines are a european madeline of engines which perform well ata reasonable price. They have good support on the RCTech website.
Things to consider. Unless tuning skills are somewhat developed, it's best not to spend big money on a motor. Any motor can be ruined with improper tuning and why learn on an expensive engine. Also to consider, there are few if any .28 engines that will run 10 minutes.
The Werks B5/B6 line of engines are a european madeline of engines which perform well ata reasonable price. They have good support on the RCTech website.
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ORIGINAL: nitroexpress
Engine designer Rody Roem left RB some time ago and now markets his own engine brand. In order to gain market share, RB markets an engine line made in Taiwan. They still sell european made engines, but the quality may or may not be up to the old standards.
Things to consider. Unless tuning skills are somewhat developed, it's best not to spend big money on a motor. Any motor can be ruined with improper tuning and why learn on an expensive engine. Also to consider, there are few if any .28 engines that will run 10 minutes.
The Werks B5/B6 line of engines are a european made line of engines which perform well at a reasonable price. They have good support on the RCTech website.
Engine designer Rody Roem left RB some time ago and now markets his own engine brand. In order to gain market share, RB markets an engine line made in Taiwan. They still sell european made engines, but the quality may or may not be up to the old standards.
Things to consider. Unless tuning skills are somewhat developed, it's best not to spend big money on a motor. Any motor can be ruined with improper tuning and why learn on an expensive engine. Also to consider, there are few if any .28 engines that will run 10 minutes.
The Werks B5/B6 line of engines are a european made line of engines which perform well at a reasonable price. They have good support on the RCTech website.
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ORIGINAL: Foxy
IROC, I'll be honest, I've been out of the truggy game too long to make a serious recommendation, but I am a huge fan of RB Concept engines. They are expensive as someone else mentioned, they are also usually tiresome to break in, but they are very very well designed, with balanced powerbands and pull strong. Treated right they will last a very long time too.
Of course for a proper racing engine you will have to use a starter box, as opposed to pull start or roto or anything like that. Although just lately, RB has been putting some of the other starter method backing plates on their mills.
I'd go for something like this if I didn't already have a ninja in my MBX5T PS... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug
One of the things I love about RB, is that they never publish their hp or rpm figures. The best have no need of bragging rights.
IROC, I'll be honest, I've been out of the truggy game too long to make a serious recommendation, but I am a huge fan of RB Concept engines. They are expensive as someone else mentioned, they are also usually tiresome to break in, but they are very very well designed, with balanced powerbands and pull strong. Treated right they will last a very long time too.
Of course for a proper racing engine you will have to use a starter box, as opposed to pull start or roto or anything like that. Although just lately, RB has been putting some of the other starter method backing plates on their mills.
I'd go for something like this if I didn't already have a ninja in my MBX5T PS... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug
One of the things I love about RB, is that they never publish their hp or rpm figures. The best have no need of bragging rights.

that engine is a terrible performer in stock trim........
RB C6 is still made...but its called a B11 now.....
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ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
What about a PS Modded engine?
What about a PS Modded engine?
here is an option for you that will not break the bank.....
http://www.clockworkracingengines.co...4p-wpull-start
#22
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ORIGINAL: Foxy
Truggy motors is a designation based on their powerband for the drivetrain of a truggy, lots of low end torque and very little up top. A racing engine will rape them across the whole powerband.
ORIGINAL: IROC-AR15
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?
Sure but I thought those were both Truggy motors?

Go up one tooth on the clutch bell and the LRP Spec 3/Losi 454 will haus axx.. It'll never do ten minutes, but it's fast.. For that extra %10-15 of top-end down the one back straight that a good race 21 will have, it will also cost twice as much.., be much more tricky to break in, need special plugs and pipe, etc.. Easily three times the price of a Losi 454/LRP Spec 3.
With truggies it's all about the clutch anyway it seems... The speed that is.. For real performance and good lap times there's all the other set-up stuff.., which ultimately is more important than the engine anyway..
I agree the race 21's are better. But when a Losi 454 can be head for under $130(I got mine for $110 shipped I think.. - brand new..), and is dead easy to break in and tune, for a basher looking to mess around it's a good engine you can have a lot of fun with.. Honestly, it'd be hard to get even a "budget" race 21 setup for under $400 - engine, matched pipe and plug, starter box with batteries, extra half-gallon of fuel needed for break-in, etc...
IROC, I wouldn't bother getting an LRP modded. Either just get a Losi 454 for dirt cheap on ebay and run it and see what you think. Or, IMO you should consider going whole hog and getting a real race engine..
There are good budget 21's like the new Go GXR II 5-port, Argus A52, Alpha S852, and Werks B5. If you refuse to believe that a 21 is powerful enough(it is..), look at the Alpha 23 or OS 25. If you really insist on a 28, then get a Jammin 28. The OS 28 is of course THE 28, but it's not cheap.. Neither is the 25.. Though IMO for somebody looking to get a top quality overpowered truggy engine - that can also maybe do ten minutes - the OS 25 is the ideal ticket.
All depends on your budget. OS 25 with matching pipe and starter box for $500, or Losi 454 with stock Losi RTR pipe for $150?..(starterbox version would be better, but then add another 100 bucks for the starterbox and batteries..)