Mason.H

Hey guys im prolly getting a jammin crt rtr right away and i will be racing it but i will be doing some bashing with it too at my local motocross track what do you guys think is the jammin up to the test or what???????

ringneck

in my opinion NO!!! ive had nothing but trouble with mine and so have all the other racers at my track. i took mine last weekend to practice and came off a soft jump landed rear wheels 1st and broke both rear hub carriers and the wing stay mounts. well i upgraded my rear hubs to aluminum ones and stocked up on wing stays! i went back to my track yesterday to try it out in racing and it did handle good ill give it that but i broke 2 wing stays and my front brake cam bearing went bad causing the front brake to stick lucky for my pit buddy had an extra one. there were 3 of us runnin jammins and we all talked about how we love the way it handles but cant stand how weak this thing is. out of the 3 jammin trucks im the only one who finished the 20 min. amain and thats cause i took it easy on it and finished 4th over all. i didnt even bother runnin my new 528 rossi i just ran my collari 21. i cant imagine runnin a brutal 528 in this thing. like i said though it really does handle nice and it very forgiving but im cleaning mine up as i type this and will be putting it on ebay and will sell it with the 528 and a starter box no radio gear. im gonna wait for the kyosho pro kit 777 to come out. kyosho is much higher quality. DONT BASH ON ME PEOPLE THIS IS MY 2 CENTS!!!![8D]

thopper

Folks at my local track (revelation raceway, california) are selling the jammin truggy as fast as they are buying them. These are good racers and they say it does not handle as well as the Hot Bodies and has reliability problems. I saw the Hellfire last night, great looking in the design and handling but very expensive. I would go Hot Bodies pro.

PillowPants

Well i have been searching though the truggy forum for about a week or so and i have pretty much came to the conclusion that truggies are pretty much strictly racers.. correct me if i'm wrong here.. but if you want something that you could backyard bash, and dominate the monster truck class, go with the LST2. I'm not trying to start anything with all you truggy guys, I want one! I'm just saying what i have been reading on here.

Buzzbait

The Jammin plastic gets VERY brittle in the cold. My front bumper exploded into 4 pieces on a 5mph impact.

noximus

just get an LSP....i have heard bad things about the jammin...im personally not a fan...and i wasnt a fan of hot bodies either...but when i heard they moved in with HPI...i figured good things might start happening...and after one gallon of playing with my new truggy..im very pleased! i did just about everything and anything with my truggy...went from the sand dunes here on the beach, to the motorcross track, to my local off road RC track. the only thing that broke on me so far is the body mount...which was 2 bucks..basher/racer....its great. now i just have to figure out how to properly tune my damn engine..lol now that i properly broke it in...i want to lean it out...and that can be tempermental.

nitrosportdecals

I have no clue what you guys are talking about!! I crash my Jammin religiously and it seldom ever breaks. My truck sports a beastly RB mods Novarossi 528xr, I've run 3 gallons of hard laps at the local track, crashed viciously, broke only 3 times. Lets just say that I beat this truck as if it stole from me, and to date, have broken only 1 wing stay, 1 front lower arm, 1 steering knuckle. I might add that those were the hardest crashes I've ever managed in my illustrious career. I've parked this thing on its wing, parked it on its front bumper coming off a huge double repeatedly, crashed full speed into another truck that had stalled at the end of the main straight, broke only 3 times. I used to own a GS storm SUT, that thing would break if I so much as sneezed at it, so Ive had my fair share of experience playing with junk, IMO simply not the case here. Everything out there is going to get mixxed reviews, but IMO you can "RUN JAMMIN OR GET RUN OVER!!!"

edge540ts

My Feedback: (1)

I just purchased a crt. I have yet to run it, but I have no doubts about its capabilities. I am also have no doubt that it will break and have its problems. Everything in this hobby will break something sometime. last year, most of the top positions in big races in the truggy class were filled with crt. You don't get there with junk. My questions, what are the parts that I shouls stock up on, and what areas should I keep an eye on. I am very impressed with construction and quality of the kit so far ( and I have build everything from helis to full build 1/4 scale planes). Any tips on the construction would be greatly appriciated also.

Buzzbait

Here's a big construction tip. Install the front bumper when you first assemble the front end. You DO NOT want to install the front bumper as the instructions say, after everything is mounted on the chassis. It's a nightmare.

Also, many people believe that the mounting wire for the tuned pipe does not flex enough. They sre simply using a linkage rod or wire coat hanger in its place.

The most commonly broken parts appear to be:
flanged bearings on brake posts
wing stays
front bumpers
rear hub carriers

BlackWolf42

My Feedback: (1)

Good tip. I had a tough time with that step.

As for the Jammin breaking often, don't crash.

The 1st hard race I ran, I ended up breaking the right rear hub carrier when I slid sideways into the tube on a panic stop. That was it. I belive this truck is very tough.

edge540ts

My Feedback: (1)

well, I have gone past the bumper step and you are correct it is almost imposible. The bumper should be put on the front diff and towers before it is installed on the chassi. I am also going to run 7-10-2 in the diffs. What do you guys think. I read that some people are putting up to 40k weight in the center. Also, did anybody strap there tires? Is there any benefit NOT to? And, "don't crash" much easier said than done. Should I replace the rear hubv carriers with metal or would that move the breaking poin to something more expensive? lastly, does anybody know of any good tracks near pittsburgh pa. Thanks

edge540ts

My Feedback: (1)

well, I have gone past the bumper step and you are correct it is almost imposible. The bumper should be put on the front diff and towers before it is installed on the chassi. I am also going to run 7-10-2 in the diffs. What do you guys think. I read that some people are putting up to 40k weight in the center. Also, did anybody strap there tires? Is there any benefit NOT to? And, "don't crash" much easier said than done. Should I replace the rear hubv carriers with metal or would that move the breaking poin to something more expensive? lastly, does anybody know of any good tracks near pittsburgh pa. Thanks

Dnell

It is correct to say that this is a racers truck. That's the whole purpose of truggies, racing. It's too much unsprung weight hanging of small parts for it to be used for all but the lightes of bashing to be safe.

Fact, I've been at this for 6 years and have a small fleet. Things Break!! You hurl 9+ pounds of truck around and at some point somethings gonna give. No manufacturer can make a product completely bulletproof, that's why there is a healthy aftermarket industry. It's about cost.

I have a LSP and the CRT and at the moment there is something more rugged about the LSP, it's got all the kingz headz upgrades and other stuff but it's heavier than the CRT and can't out steer it either.

On replacing stuff: I wouldn't just replace stuff right away cause you might be the one person that never experiences a failure. Just add the potentialy suspect parts to you pit box. No respectable racer will be caught dead without a fully stocked pit box by the way. Anything that can bring your day to a hault, should be in your box.

It's unfortunate in a way that the CRT has taken off as it has cause a lot of people have bought into the hobby on the back of it without realizing their expectations might be a tad too high. Kyosho, Mugen and Xray make the best buggies on the market but they are out of the average users depth. Unless your willing to study and experiment you'll be met all the way with frustation. That's why they call it hobby I suppose.

I'm running 30-30-10 in my diffs and think it's great. You don't get the front unloading as much and the on-power steering is more forgiving, especially if you have a double off of a hairpin. I find it easier to get lined up while keeping the power feeding in. It all of these things mentioned are worth trying. If it doesn't work for you, simple, undo it, that's what set-up sheets are all about, to track our changes and make it easy to backtrack.

Most importantly we need to keep in mind this is meant to be fun. Oh, did I mention potentially expensive.

nitrosportdecals

Excellent reply Dnell, I agree with you 100% and I might add.... Congrats and good luck with the Jammin. As for the stockpile, get some upper and lower arms (front and rear) front and rear hubs, front bumper, wingstay, clutch bearings. A word of caution on the radio box and receiver switch. Make sure that you mount the switch so that the "on" position is reached by pushing the switch down, if you don't do this, the receiver may shut itself down off a hard landing, resulting in the possibility of a runaway train (found out the hard way) The receiver box itself is very flimsy and the screws provided are even more so. I would recommend using a thin bead of waterproof silicone around the seams where the two halves are joined together, then substitute the screws they provide with thicker longer screws to hold the box together securely ( the two halves of the box work themselves loose and come apart after repeated jumps, you may have a battery pop out on you) Keep an eye on ALL of the cvd's, the ones on my car seem to be wearing prematurely.Get the Z- brace and the one piece engine mount. The Z-brace helps eliminate unwanted flex in the event that you land nose first, and the one piece mount makes pinion/spur alignment easier while providing more stability for gear mesh (Most cars are more forgiving than this one, if your pinion angle and gear mesh arent just right, the combination of improper angle and aluminum clutch shoes seem to generate a lot of heat, you will chew up clutchbearings like my cousin Bobo chews up cheese burgers at Mcdonalds) Use the fluids that they provide you with, this has proven to be a pretty good all around starting point, works well. Tape the insides of the tires with a good quality packing tape that has the fiber strands embedded. Last but not least, have a blast!

Dnell

Good stuff there and a 'top tip' when setting the gear mesh. If you use a slip of paper to mesh the gears, you'll have it just right.

Another tip. When you're scewing turnbuckles and the like together. A drop of oil helps things along.

To insure the fun there are certain bits you need to treat as consumables. Glow plugs, fuel hose, clutch shoes and springs, especially if you run a quality .28 and clutch bearings. Keep stock.

edge540ts

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I got most of it together last night. Mounted switch "down on ", I leard that the hard way also. Siliconed the box for a good seal. I am having a problem with the gear mesh. I must have set it 10 times. I used the paper "gap" method, but one part of the mesh is perfect but another part is a little tight. I can still move it with my finger, but I can feel the gear get tight. Too tight. Is it better to leave this tight spot till the gears get run in, or should I loosen it up a tad, and then reset after wear in. One thing I do not like (maybe the onlything so far) is that there no mud guards. With the wheels turned to one extreme, it seams that it would spray dirt and mud all over the chassi. Are there after market maud guards or does anybody have a template to make them. The only thing that is left are the shocks. I think I am going to use 50wt all around. Any body advise other wise? Thanks for all the help.

Dnell

When you have a tight spot, you should set the mesh for the tight spot. After a few tanks check the alignment again. It rarely happens with steel spurs and gears, but sometimes there not perfectly round.

Never seen any mud guards.

One of the best investments I've made was shelling out for an air compressor. Cleaning is no longer a choir, soapy water, bottle brush, paint brush, WD40 and compressed air. Blingin' in no time.

noximus

thats exactly what i use, with a little help from a tooth brush..lol

works great.

nitrosportdecals

Here is an area that I'm still within my learning curve. The example I'm giving here is for the really rough stuff, a smooth track is a whole different ball of wax. I talked to one of the gents at Ofna and he indicated to me that a very large percentage of setup is the actual tires themselves. Many people fail to even mention tires when discussing setup. I'll give you an example of what I've found to be true. My cousin runs a GS storm pro sut. This thing runs around our miserable, slippery, bumpy ass track like its on rails. I drove the thing and it was hooking something fierce. However, I noticed something strange when launching off the huge double. The car would launch and kick off half cocked to the side with the left side of the ass end up in the air, requiring major attitude adjustment. Aside from that it was able to eat up the terrain where others were having trouble. I found the problem, when I was starting the truck on the table. The suspension was binding like crazy. 3 of the shock shafts were bent, two of them so bad that they, had about half the travel taken out. So how the frick was this truck still handling so well? Simple answer,Tires. He is running a soft compound Imex pindawg with a medium to soft foam. This thing is dialed. I took the liberty of rebuilding his shocks for him, 45 in the front, 40 rear, and the truck is unreal. The only drawback to soft tires is that the truck has a tendency to roll in the corners, but you can make simple adjustments to driver input and be on your way in no time. (Oh yeah, you can sneeze at his truck and it'll break.)

ringneck

man tires are a huge issue im runnin on a hard packed indoor clay track right now and my crime fighters with racers edge 2 stage foams and they are worhless. but i borowed a set of hot bodies stadium tiers from an lsp(thease tires are kinda like a losi tapper pin) and they were the bomb my truck handeld awsome. the only complaint i have on the crt is the durability issues im haveing right now. but i really do like the way it drives.

edge540ts

My Feedback: (1)

I have heard a lot of concerns reguarding durability. Are there any up grade I should get to improve this? May be "Z" brace, one piece motor mount, metal front plate, ect. I also havce heard that the out drive are wearing out. DOes anybody run those little boots that cover the ends, and can you use them on all 12 ends.

Dnell

roscoe71

Just for a heads-up, I'd be interested to hear about the durability issues your're having. Half way through last season with the LSP I knew what to expect.

I'm doing my winter shake-down and need to know what to buy extras of. Last year it was suspension hangers until Kingz Headz came through. What area of the truck concerns you?

ringneck

dnell if you plan to race the crt then heres a list of what to get. this is everything ive broke so far. either upgrade the rear hub carriers to aluminum(racers edge rear carriers for the 777 kyosho are a perfect fit 45.00) or you can buy extra plastic ones defenetly wing stays and you may whant to get an extra upper steering plate ive only broke one so far but i also landed kinda hard and out of shape to break this part. if you use the truggy front bumper you will need extra ones as well i prefer the buggy bumper. you may whant to also get an extra set of front hub carriers i havent broke this part yet but it seems to be a part on all race trucks that can and will break. my buddy is a machinest and i gave him my front steering plate/center diff upper brace and radio tray and he is gonna custom make me thease parts to help out the durability. this guy is real good at this!!! so im pumped about that deal! you will love the way this truck drives but i question the durability of this truck. i know by spring there will be a plethew of after market goodies for this rig hell proline already has a crowd pleaser out for us wich is good cause the stock body is poop. like nitrosportdecals always says if you sneeze it will break.LOL i hope i helped a little good luck man!!!

ringneck

edge if you get the z brace all it does is help with chassis flex around the engine area, but you really need this part exspecially if you run a high end high hp. 28. as far as the out drives ive had no problems with mine i heard some people cry about them wearing but in my opinion when you run a 2.9hp mill at 30thousand rpm ya you tend to wear something out.

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

For sure. Well said.