Thunder tiger ST-1
#3876
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If you run a .21 the springs will have more of an effect cause they dont smack the power out like a .28 but if you are running the LRP you should be pretty much the same as me. I run my Nosram 28 lean but still within good temps and it can run all day without a single hickup hang on got to go back to work
#3877
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Well I sold the LRP, but the mach has just as good get up and go just doesn't pull as nicely in the higher revs as the LRP. Ill bet both motors would be much better with a different pipe. I bought a Losi HT pipe from a 8ight-t which I know works well with 427's. I am going to try 1.0mm. Can you really tell the difference between the 1.0mm and 1.1?
#3878
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Good question other people say they can but I have yet to see as I have been using 1.0 but will try .9 as soon as I get them. whoohooo I just got a complete set of mugen hub extenders for $25 shipped.
#3879
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omg there was a set on ebay I just missed!!! Because i thought i was going to get the losi ones because the mugen ones usually always sell for over $20 + shipping. Guess what, these ones only sold for $10 + $5 shipping WITH the pins and nuts!! [:@] The losi ones should be the same even quality wise, just $5 more [:@]
#3881
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I've heard the larger Ace Hardware stores have a great selection of metric screws. Supposedly thats where the screws come from in those kits that are all over ebay.
ORIGINAL: Pexeter
These engines only last around 10 gallons? Man this hobby just keeps getting more and more expensive! Where do you think the best place to go is that would have screws that small?
These engines only last around 10 gallons? Man this hobby just keeps getting more and more expensive! Where do you think the best place to go is that would have screws that small?
#3882
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ORIGINAL: ericem
make sure you glow plug is glowing nice and bright. I am trying to determine whether you would need to make the engine more rich or lean. hmm... I think more lean. I would try pre heating it first though with a hair dryer or better yet a heat gun. Like I said make sure your glow ignitor is fine. Also give it some throttle. It is a really difficult task with a pullstart motor though.
@madmaxx most engines don't need extra shims. Only if it has predetonation issues. Should still start though.
@revo I think the upper a-arm was made to have play for a reason. Does your truck have the 1/2 offset wheels? Like chedster said. I run 30K diff fluid in my center diff and have 0 ballooning issues.
ORIGINAL: ska8erj
hey im switchin to 30% odonnels from 20% odonnels.
and it wont start and im a noob at tuning so how should i tune it?
hey im switchin to 30% odonnels from 20% odonnels.
and it wont start and im a noob at tuning so how should i tune it?
@madmaxx most engines don't need extra shims. Only if it has predetonation issues. Should still start though.
@revo I think the upper a-arm was made to have play for a reason. Does your truck have the 1/2 offset wheels? Like chedster said. I run 30K diff fluid in my center diff and have 0 ballooning issues.
#3885
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ORIGINAL: ericem
30k is not even close to locking the diff. Actually even 100k diff oil doesn't lock a diff.
30k is not even close to locking the diff. Actually even 100k diff oil doesn't lock a diff.
#3889
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Pexter - I actually broke the same screws only on both sides of the wing mount (doing some serious jumping tonight!!). If you take off the suspension mount the stubs should be showing and you can unscrew them using pliers.
The car was hauling tonight (can't wait to get the 2035 pipe on friday) but steering under power was still pretty lame even with the steering mod. Any ideas on what I can do to get it sharper? I haven't installed my hitec servo yet (waiting until race season) but wondered if any other suggestions?
The car was hauling tonight (can't wait to get the 2035 pipe on friday) but steering under power was still pretty lame even with the steering mod. Any ideas on what I can do to get it sharper? I haven't installed my hitec servo yet (waiting until race season) but wondered if any other suggestions?
#3891
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Thanks for the tip soccerlaw, i'll try that out. Well, hopefully I have it fully broken in for a long healthy/life. Im pretty sure I have it idling at a good speed. I dont see how you could even NEED or want to go faster than what the stock st-1 does, its incredibly fast. You would need wide open spaces for WOT, no way you could even hit 1/2 speed on a track.
Should I expect my servos to crap out or will they last?
Is anyone else using the battery holder? Im having trouble getting it to fit right in the receiver box, any ideas?
One more, how short can the pull start rope be and still work properly? It keeps coming off and i've already cut some off of it, but I think im going to have to again.
Should I expect my servos to crap out or will they last?
Is anyone else using the battery holder? Im having trouble getting it to fit right in the receiver box, any ideas?
One more, how short can the pull start rope be and still work properly? It keeps coming off and i've already cut some off of it, but I think im going to have to again.
#3892
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Sorry i had to get back to work before but anyway , yeah a .28 puts out so much power down low that the 1.1mm springs dont really make a difference. Its really only in the standing start that you notice
#3893
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7/5/3 is a diff oil setup for buggy's cause they handle different. Im going to try 7/30/1 and see how that goes and then i'll know which way to go. If its no good then i want to try 7/7/1.
Soccerlaw, if you have too thick oil in the back and not enough in the front it will never handle good under power. In theory you pretty much want more power going to the front to pull you through the corners so between 5k and 10k for the front and maybe 2k or 1k for the rear to stop it pushing too much and keep it following the front wheels nicely. And for the centre maybe start with 10k and see how it works with your driving style and after a bit you'll feel if you need to go thicker or thinner or even stay at 10k. Just remember, never judge you diff oil choices for dirt by testing them out on concrete or bitumen. It will always act different on the dirt because all the wheels are fighting for traction whereas on the road or path or whatever, it grips like anything at the rear and always unloads the fronts. To put it simply, for dirt driving - test it on dirt. For road driving - test it on road. I hope this is of some help for you mate, just try a few differnet setups and experiment a bit and you'll soon get the feel of it
Soccerlaw, if you have too thick oil in the back and not enough in the front it will never handle good under power. In theory you pretty much want more power going to the front to pull you through the corners so between 5k and 10k for the front and maybe 2k or 1k for the rear to stop it pushing too much and keep it following the front wheels nicely. And for the centre maybe start with 10k and see how it works with your driving style and after a bit you'll feel if you need to go thicker or thinner or even stay at 10k. Just remember, never judge you diff oil choices for dirt by testing them out on concrete or bitumen. It will always act different on the dirt because all the wheels are fighting for traction whereas on the road or path or whatever, it grips like anything at the rear and always unloads the fronts. To put it simply, for dirt driving - test it on dirt. For road driving - test it on road. I hope this is of some help for you mate, just try a few differnet setups and experiment a bit and you'll soon get the feel of it
#3894
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One more, how short can the pull start rope be and still work properly? It keeps coming off and i've already cut some off of it, but I think im going to have to again.
Thanks ercicem I think Ill try the 20 in the center then and see how that goes. What did you use to clean all the grease out of the diffs? Carb cleaner?
Itchy thats a good point about the different surfaces..
#3895
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ORIGINAL: ItchyBum
7/5/3 is a diff oil setup for buggy's cause they handle different. Im going to try 7/30/1 and see how that goes and then i'll know which way to go. If its no good then i want to try 7/7/1.
Soccerlaw, if you have too thick oil in the back and not enough in the front it will never handle good under power. In theory you pretty much want more power going to the front to pull you through the corners so between 5k and 10k for the front and maybe 2k or 1k for the rear to stop it pushing too much and keep it following the front wheels nicely. And for the centre maybe start with 10k and see how it works with your driving style and after a bit you'll feel if you need to go thicker or thinner or even stay at 10k. Just remember, never judge you diff oil choices for dirt by testing them out on concrete or bitumen. It will always act different on the dirt because all the wheels are fighting for traction whereas on the road or path or whatever, it grips like anything at the rear and always unloads the fronts. To put it simply, for dirt driving - test it on dirt. For road driving - test it on road. I hope this is of some help for you mate, just try a few differnet setups and experiment a bit and you'll soon get the feel of it
7/5/3 is a diff oil setup for buggy's cause they handle different. Im going to try 7/30/1 and see how that goes and then i'll know which way to go. If its no good then i want to try 7/7/1.
Soccerlaw, if you have too thick oil in the back and not enough in the front it will never handle good under power. In theory you pretty much want more power going to the front to pull you through the corners so between 5k and 10k for the front and maybe 2k or 1k for the rear to stop it pushing too much and keep it following the front wheels nicely. And for the centre maybe start with 10k and see how it works with your driving style and after a bit you'll feel if you need to go thicker or thinner or even stay at 10k. Just remember, never judge you diff oil choices for dirt by testing them out on concrete or bitumen. It will always act different on the dirt because all the wheels are fighting for traction whereas on the road or path or whatever, it grips like anything at the rear and always unloads the fronts. To put it simply, for dirt driving - test it on dirt. For road driving - test it on road. I hope this is of some help for you mate, just try a few differnet setups and experiment a bit and you'll soon get the feel of it
On another note, couldn't believe how well this car handles jumps. Basically put a piece of wood up against a file cabinet - probably a 70-80 degree angle and it launched perfectly every time into the air and landed evenly on all four wells every time.
#3896
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This tool I heard works well.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12332
I was lazy and didn't clean out the grease. Ill bet I should have that way I would get the best differential effect.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12332
I was lazy and didn't clean out the grease. Ill bet I should have that way I would get the best differential effect.
#3897
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i run 7/10/1 in my diffs. i kinda drive mine like a buggy, plus i like the back end loose. that's why i drive it with 1000wt in the rear.
#3898
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does any body know if i have to shim my brake calipers when i change to the racers edge cradock fiberglass brake disc they are a lot thinner then the stock disc
#3900
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well since where on diffs, let me ask, I want my truck to have a good possi rear end and not send all the power to the front, but not so much it wheelies, or donuts on loose dirt, so I am guessing I need a heavy diff in the rear and center right, heavy in the center keeps the power in the rear and ront and rear weights afect left to right wheel right????