twomanytoys

A monster gt has a fan style flywheel but that has nothing to do with running lean. Thats just the way it is. It dont matter much if you run 15-20 degrees hotter in a race anyways. Not a whole lot you can do about it. I usually run about 255-260 but then it goes up to about 275-280 by the end of the race. Thats not going to hurt anything. Most engines can run great in a race running 280 and some guys can run up near 300. As long as you have good smoke and no cutting out on full throttle then no worries.

ericem

wow that is one expensive pipe [X(] I would hope it makes a worlds difference though.

revo when you tune your engine don't tune it till it has been run for over 1/2 a tank. I haven't tuned my mach 427 in ages.

redfox03

m80, i run the blue springs rear and grey springs up front. 40wt oil front and 60wt rear.

madmax22

Its called half tank lean I think I know why. When you fill you tank up it splashes around a little when its 1/2 or less it shakes more and air bubbles get in the fuel line from the shaking. I think thats why. I dont think there is a solution just richen it up a lttle more before the race.

Oilman: Looks good I like the yellow!

ItchyBum

I finally got a couple pics with the mugen wheel hubs on. Im going to give it a good run tomorrow to test and tune all the new settings iv changed i also put a 16t c/b on just to see how fast it can go lol

madmax22

WOW! its really wide now! looks bad @$$!!!!!!!!

cherokee180c

Guys. I really need your opinion to help me select the best racing truggy for the money. I am a former fully sponsered 1/10th scale electric team driver from 20 years ago (Yeah I know ancient times). Yes this was the ealry days with no computer radios, etc. I only state this to let you know I can drive well, and am interested in a competitive car so the driving and setup will make the difference. I don't want to be handicaped by a vehicle that can not compete. I am looking to get into truggies with my 14 year old son who has no experience racing. I also fly planes and helicopters so the nitro part is no big deal for me. We have a local track in MD that just races 1/8 scale truggies and buggies outdoors. Our truggies will be for racing only and we will not mess around with them in the neiborhood. Can the ST-1 RTR compete with the 8ight -T RTR and other top truggies? I have a DX-7 Spektrum for my helicopters so I am familiar with the benefits of the DX-2 radio, but since I need to buy 2 systems to do some racing with my son, $1500 for (2) Losi RTR's is too steep for me right now.

1. How do the ST-1's fair on the race track against the best truggies?
2. Is the ST-1 pro racing kit worth the large difference in price to the ST-1 RTR, especially with no motor or radio or are you better off just getting the ST-1 RTR and upgrading later?
3. Is the ST-1's RTR motor any good or will we definitely need to upgrade to somehting like the LRP 28 to compete for racing?

I am thinking about maybe buying the tricked out version for myself and letting my son learn on the cheaper RTR version, does this make any sense? Thanks in advance for any help.

ericem

I would pickup 2 RTR's. There isn't really any difference except the PRO has all the nice carbon fiber and red anodized aluminum pieces. Once you get some nice 1/2 offset LPR wheels, and a better engine pipe combo, better steering servo(stock one is fine at 6v but the faster the better), and a nice radio it is plenty competitive. Every single part of the truck can be adjusted to some degree. Stock motor can do fine just change the exhaust. No matter what though a new motor will help you clear jumps alot easier.

madmax22

im with ericem on this one. sure sure the PRO is nice with all its carbon and anodized parts but the stock is light and durable enough. New engine, pipe and radio will do wonders!

cherokee180c

If the motor, pipe and radio are not that competivie, can you pick up the standard ST-1 chasis by itself cheaper somewhere? Also I have my old reliable Futaba 1024 PCM 3 channel radio. It does not have any computer settings, but has everything adjustable through pots. This should be a much better radio than what comes with the RTR kit, correct? Where can you get parts for the ST-1 and how durable are they? Lastly, what do you guys think about the Associated LRP Z28. It seems to be priced pretty reasonably and has more stated horsepower than the OS 28, any thoughts?

Again thanks for all the help.

madmax22

The Futaba should do its job fine! The ST-1 is tough as nails. I have hit things soooo hard and not broken anything. I have gone so fast and just blew out cartwheeled down the road and just flipped back over and drove home w/ no damage accept a scratch or 2 on the body. The LRP I hear is a freking beast! Im getting one for my b-day hopefully. The OS and LRP are both great motors I hear the OS has some CRAZY pinch and is a PIA to start when new.

ericem

Those HP specs mean nothing. They are just gimmicks to sell the motor. The os .28 indefinitely is a much better motor then the LRP. Also consider the JPX jammin .28 which is basically a Picco .28. You should not have any durability issues at all. With the radio it includes it has all the trim settings as well.

You are better off just getting the RTR and selling the stock motor and pipe. Who knows you might like the stock RTR motor because you can handle it more easily.

madmax22

I wanna go fast[8D]

JChrisjohn

I was nervous buying a cheap truggy, cheap as in money, but wow what a deal this thing is great, strong as steel, I put a new ace high torque servo in today it chatters untill you pick the front end up the quiets, untill you hit the steering and it does it agin . I am running stock radio and the servo is the ds 1313 other than that issu it has great power and really quick .13 at 6v any help would be great.

twomanytoys

I race my St1 with a LRp and JP3 pipe against all the top names and it does just as good. Its has got to be the toughest truck I have ever owned. Tough as nails so parts wont be needed. The stock engine is fine to run and will last forever but it wont be near as fast as an LRP or picco but still fast. For the price you just cant beat it. It is a little smaller than other truggies but not by much. That gives me a slight advantage on my track because its tight. If you are lookint to buy 2 of them then its a great deal. Or you can buy the PRO version which a wider and has the carbon fiber and red anodized and the rtr version for your son. Keep your sons stock till he learns and mod yours from the start. If you want pure power then look at a Ninja .21, os21 v spec jammin .21 with JP4 pipe and the pro st1. The ST1 with the LRp is sick and thats what I run.

Pexeter

Im having trouble getting my buddys engine running, any advice? His started right off the bat unlike mine. At first, we had it running but when you pulled the ignitor it would die. We tried adjusting the low speed needle, but no go. Then we messed with the idle, still nothing. We got off the beaten path so we reset all the needles to the manual settings and tried again. Then it would start but then die right away. Thats where we are at now, I pull the crank, it fires right up, but then jerks the pull handle back into the engine and dies.

Where do we go from here, should we always leave the fuel/air 2.5 turns out from bottom until we get it going?

ericem

Hold the throttle open for a bit until it seems like it can idle on its own.. They are very tight engines. Pre-heating is a good idea as well.

chedster

My ds 1015 buzzed too, thats just because they are digi. Its normal but make sure it's not binding anywhere and set your EPA if you have it. I switched the ds1015 to throttle and put a hitec 5955 in steering and it does not make any noise unless I move it. Must be ace servos, just a little noisy compared to other servos.

ericem

lol why do you guys care?? XD That just means it centers very sensitively.

chedster

exactly why I said it's normal. Still should set your EPA though unless you want to possibly fry your $100 servo

xjqkz

I think rtr is the better deal out of the two, all the upgrade parts can be bought and even then it would come out to be the same price as the pro-kit then you will have a spare motor and radio at your disposal since the pro version doesn't come with them.

JChrisjohn

I could not find this information but do all high end servo's come with an unwritten warranty?

Pexeter

Thanks eric, ok, it seems we got it idling good, but it dies as soon as we remove the ignitor. That means its running too rich right on the low speed needle? It seems as soon as we mess with that other problems crop up.

madmax22

I dont think ALL of them do.


yes to rich. Just lean a little on the LSN and HSN.

grimespdx

chedster, what body are you running on your st-1?