ItchyBum

use the 7000 for the front. 10000 for the centre and the 3000 in the rear

calvino

cool, ya, can't wait to hopefully get one, any companys make wing mounts OTHER than ace that fit on the truck, since the extended mounts out of stock [], would the tekno wing mount work....[8D]

msg73

I got my new ST-1 yesterday! I broke most of it down and replaced diff grease with oil and loctited all metal-to-metal screws. You should check everything...many of the screws weren't loctited and I found a stray lock nut in the rear diff housing!!!

Anyway, I've completed six 3-5 minute runs of break-in (doing the heat cycle). It's running a little rich as I haven't leaned it out yet, but it's running nice! Heating up the head with a blow dryer definitely helps...only takes 1 or 2 pulls and it starts right up.

I think 10k weight for the center diff is too thin. I'm using 7k front, 20k center and 3k rear. Now it off to do a few more runs

kweezinarts

wow that sure is stray! there shouldnt be anything in the diff housing except gears and grease. did you run it b4 you found the nut? [sm=what_smile.gif]...

runnin 5-7-3 right now, works great but gonna try 10k in the center...

calvino

looks like quality control needs to be woken up[>:], dude, thats just bad, hope it wasn't run like that[>:], hate to think of what WOULD have happened, you should send an email stating what you found soo maybe they will get the clue[8D]

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

I got a back order notice on the extended wing mount for the TTR from AMain this evening. Ordered it even tho I'm selling my TTR, brother in law will probably be pretty appreciative. Just a heads up

kweezinarts

and what does this notice say? they shipping you the ext. wing mount?

msg73

Fortunately, I found the nut before I ran it. I could only imagine what damage that could have done.

On a separate topic, I decided try a run with the shell on and it cut out suddenly after 3/4 of a tank and I couldn't get it to start. I think I had what's called Vapor Lock. It ran fine for 7-8 minutes and then it went dead all of a sudden. I'm assuming the shell caused it to get too hot, causing the vapor lock. I'll try it again without the shell tomorrow. I'm definitely going to cut out some vents for better cooling.

ItchyBum

Iv got racing this sunday and the track is in pretty bad shape so im going to try 5-5-3. I hope it goes alright cause my other 2 diffs are 30k and full lock and im too lazy to change 1 of them for just in case lol I also have 2 spare front diffs with 7k and 10k just in case also and a spare 1k for the rear. I think i should be covered if only i can get off my lazy butt and make a spare centre lol

ItchyBum

Just found something very useful. Check it out http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...l?SMSESSION=NO For when you dont have the exact weight diff oil, you can mix 2 together (same brand) at a certain ratio to get the weight you looking for

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

Yes, they are shipping it out to me.

cujoman

Ok, finally figured out what the prob with my ST-1 was. Remember my Throttle was getting stuck after 5 minutes of running and we thought it was either the clutch shoes or switch. Well it wasn't. I turned out to be the throttle servo. Go figure! Well I fixed it now and it's back and running excellent. Now I have one more issue. I don't like how the front tires get more traction or start spinning before the rears do. What can I do to change this? Just so that the rears get the initial grip instead of the fronts? Should I change the oil weiht to thicker in the front and thinner in the rear? it's stock right now. Let me know, thanks!

chedster

Ya if they are still stock they just have grease in them. Swap that for some diff oil. 5-10-3 is a good starting point.

ericem

Just change the center diff oil. Put like 20k (20,000) weight. IMO 10k is nothing.

cujoman

ok cool, i'll try that. Thanks!

ItchyBum

The front wheels will balloon lots if you are driving on concrete or bitumen or anything with high traction. Once you take it onto some dirt they all spin pretty much the same but you definately need to change the diffs from grease to silicone oil so you have some kind of control over them. Iv got a 30k centre diff and it doesnt balloon at all so 20k should be a good medium

madmax22

ok wel i got the roto start today and put it in all excited and the OWB (that was CRAP) just stopped... took it out and put WD-40 on it and got 1 little blip out of it but not evought to start it... i'm guessing i will order 2 of those... I ordered the roto start from amain on sunday and got it today (thursday) with the worst shipping givin... i might just order some from the LHS so i dont have to pay $8 shiping for a $9 part.

msg73

It seems that lots of people are blowing thier OWB's with the roto start. I was thinking about getting one after break-in, but it's so easy to get it going with the pull start (1-3 pulls) that I don't know if it's worth it. Maybe you should be using a lower voltage batt in the roto start to make it easier on the OWB.

chedster

Or just get a starter box

sharkus

How long ago did you submit your order? I placed an order for it on May 1st and haven't gotten a notice yet...

-Sharkus

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

I back-ordered the extended wing mount in mid march when I ordered the TTR.

The Hedgehog

Hey guys, is it the MUGEN body that fits the ST-1? I forget actually which one, I wanted to airbrush some up.

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

Which Mugen body are you talking about?, Stock, Pro Line, JConcepts?

ProStreetCamaro

Well guys welcome a new member to the ST-1 club! I cant wait till mine gets here hopefully next week. Anybody have a rough estimate on how long I should expect it to take? I ordered it yesterday and used UPS ground as the shipper and I live in Maryland. Im thinking if AMain shipped it today it should be here like tuesday or wednesday?

The Hedgehog

Ok, let me rephrase my question, what aftermarket bodies fit the ST-1?