Fikse7

Hey guys, what's the correct way to pull start these? I read all of these threads about the cords breaking. I should be ready to break mine in next week.

ericem

Just don't pull the pullstart to far. Go only at like max 1/2 a foot out. Or you can pull the cord all the way slowly then look at half that length. That is the most you should pull it.

way2fastrcz

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Here are some pics of my RTR I recently purchased. I upgraded the clutch shoes to the TTR aluminum ones, installed the extended rear wing mount and a TTR truggy wing and I also installed a TTR 2035 pipe. I'll post some pics of my Pro version once I get my engine, clutch and pipe in.

way2fastrcz

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My Pro version without my Werks .28, Werks 4 shoe clutch and JP-1 pipe:

cobra26

way2fas****,

Those are a couple of real sweeeet lookin' rides!

joelnazab

hey guys i just staarted my st-1 took a hole tank trying to start it and when it did it was throwing out alot of gas thrue the pipe i started playing with the lil niddles then it stoped i got it to were blue smoke comes out but i notice when its just sitting there it still leave tinny drops on the floor is that an ok thing ... well anyways i filled up the tank and just rode it around for the whole tank giving it a lil gas they told me at the lhs it ok to break it in like that are they right

joelnazab

ohhhhhhh i noticed the brakes arent really stopping it how can i ajust them?

gtrider12345678

a little fuel coming out of the pipe is fine. Its much better to run in a little rich than too lean. So as long as its running strong leave it the way it is. If you look at the two arms that pull the brakes there are two things at the end you can ajust to try and make it stop better.

way2fastrcz

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Thanks...I'll get pics up of my S3 as well.

ericem

On your radio, it says Low turn that knob below it and look at the linkge while you hold the brakes turn it one way and see if it moves the linkage more, if it goes less then turn the knob the other way while holding the brakes. Should help or do as mentioned. You will notice alot of fuel coming out of the pipe right now because the engine still isn't full broken in. You are doing break-in right? Be careful to sounds like you were flooding it, you could break your pull-start!! Don't pull the pullstart to far.

joelnazab

ok kool i just ran another tank and everything is good throwing out blue smoke it sounds like its idleling too high doh... its fast maaaaan... when i try to pull full throdle is kinda stops for like a second then it starts going is that normal or is it cuz it hasent broke in

Foxy

It's cos you haven't tuned it yet. When you finish the break in you can start tuning it. Look at the nitro guide stickied in the Nitro Engines Forum.

joelnazab

ok so how many more tanks for break in?... i ran two already with regular throddle and i let the engine kool after each run

ericem

Make sure the piston is at the bottom. So turn the flywheel till you feel its not at the top where its hard to turn. Run 3 more make sure you do no more then 1/4 throttle.

Got a vid of my ST-1 with the mach 427 and 15T bell. I tried shortening my fuel line to only like 2 inches. It ran alot better and was consistent. No random lean rev's or high reving after a speed run. I plan on leaving it like this. I don't notice any difference with the longer fuel line or shorter fuel line, maybe a few seconds, but who cares even if I am racing I should time when I know I need to fuel up. When I came in I noticed my wing mount screws fell out, something you guys should make sure is not loose after running. Ill bet it came loose yesterday after bashing in deep snow.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=NdiMAReoRKQ

Snaut Rocket

Does the pro version come with carbon firber shock towers and radio tray?

ericem

Yes it does.

way2fastrcz

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Yeap...the ST-1 pro comes with all the carbon fiber you see. It also comes with all the TT red hinge blocks. The only other upgrades I added were the red front upper and lower plates.

Snaut Rocket

Is that really all the upgrades it needs to make this a solid truck.
And it can compete with the big boys like Mugen and xray.

ericem

It doesn't need any of those parts to make it solid. The RTR with mainly plastic bracing is indestructible as it is and yes it is definitely able to keep up with more expensive kits, there is a lot of adjust ability to suit pretty much ANYONES needs handling wise. If you read through the manual you will see it explains exactly what each adjustment will do and how to fix a handling issue.

way2fastrcz

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Like ericem said, you don't need these items to have a solid truggy. The RTR is just as tough. The ST-1 pro uses some of the carbon fiber for weight savings. However, I've seen the carbon fiber shock towers snap before. I might keep a set of the RTR aluminum shock towers as spares. The pro does come with the updated front upper arms which have less flex than on the RTR version. I was looking on A-main and they don't stock the pro upper arms. I might have to get those from the Canadian TTR distributor (Hobbycraft). My RTR even came with the pro version chassis (hard anodized)!!!

rican25

Alright guys some of you know that I had to replace the OWB in my friends TT ST1, it started today for a few seconds then died, I went to restart and nothing... bearing is still good but something just sounded different inside as it was turning over. Let it sit for a minute tried again and it kinda "coughed" you know, almost started. so now that is all it will do. I pulled the cooling head off just to get a look inside things and its all nice and clean and everyting seems ok until I stick the roto start end in the OWB (without the turning motor of course) and manually turned the engine over only to notice the sleeve inside moving up when the piston reaches the top. is that normal? and there is a notch in the sleeve thats lined up with a notch on the block so I am guessing this is right. My question is with the cooling head off should that sleeve move at all when the piston reaches the top? or is that normal because of the pinch? thanks guys

madmax22

ericem nice rides. what body is that? and is that the stock RTR head?? mine dosent have those 2 cut outs in the head

I ran 2-3 tanks today and i got 2 rocks lodged in the flywheel so i had to stop and take them out. by then it was to dark to play. so i cleaned it for like 2 hrs. she's super clean. Cant wait till tomorrow i get to start all over again. I like my fuel lines longer so if it flips i dont have to worry about it stalling after 2 sec. My friend is coming back up in a couple days with his 3.3 t-maxx with a resonator pipe on it. think i can take him????

fourwheels0

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rican25 yes the sleeve moving up a little with the head off is normal. have you tryed a new plug?

gtrider12345678

The RTR is tought, but i have broken the front lower suspension plate. I would really like to find one of the pro anodized red ones because im sure they are made out of better material. If anyone knows where i can get one let me know.

ericem

How!! Do you mean the whole plate snapped!

@Rican are you giving throttle?? If not you need to give it throttle lol. Also did you prime it for a second longer after you saw the fuel in the fuel line hit the carb?

@madmaxx lol I totally forgot about when it flips!!!! I am going to have to give my car a run tomorrow and flip it to see if it still runs when it flips!