*FULL-REVS*

thank you so much mike... from your post this is how i read it....hot bodies ring and pinion gears (front&rear) spider gears remain cen std ones... some shimming might be needed of the spider gears and front shaft (depending on my diff cases) and after that i should be good to go in the case ive lost a bit of bottom end do you think droping the clutch bell to a 12 tooth would help? or definantly change the spur gear..... YAY!!!! im excited about my conversion again it nearly got the BFH (big friggin hammer) conversion last night LOL

trarena

shimming on the buggy uni is simply because it is a fraction short, shimming on the diffs (if required) is to make it smoother. and yeah, if you are not happy with the acceleration i'd try the lightened 48T gear - its around USD$28 and comes with a shim plate that sits between the chassis and the diff mounts to keep the spurgear well inside the chassis and you'll also need to use some shims / washers between the top of the diff mounts and the centre brace to make sure it runs free under the brace. i'm not sure how a 12T bell would run. The acceleration even with the 46T should still be better than your current set up tho.

*FULL-REVS*

oh man.... i so cant wait now..... i have just done a fresh build on my 5 port go.... so im running that in while i wait for my bits from amain.... if you dont mind me asking.... how the heck did you figure all the ratio stuff out? was it something that was passed onto you from someone running the bce chassis? or do you have some sort of formula that you use?...... just curious....

Tree1

The original discussion of the BCE chassis conversion was on truggyracers.com. All information regarding the conversion is found on that site along with different mods and set-ups.

I finally placed my order for the BCE CX2 chassis. My Kyosho diffs are 43t ring gear and 10T beveled gear. I should be good to go once my BCE chassis arrives

*FULL-REVS*

lucky bugger!!!! i got the ol killer amain wait LOL atleast i can finish running in my 5 port in my buggy

wriffwraff

here's a link from truggyracers.com regarding the comprehensive parts listing for the bce chassis conversion for the cen matrix truggy: http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/in...howtopic=21798

note: i'm not sure if the link will work if you're not registered at truggyracers.com.

trarena

I got the info on the basic requirements for my first bce build from Gene at the beginning of the year then from sharing ideas with some of the guys like dahlelama and lockmouth (not sure if i'm supposed to use their real names so i'll stick with their forum names) on truggyracers.com. As riff said there is a parts list posted on that site and there's also a dedicated BCE thread.

wriffwraff

here's the latest YouTube footage of my cen matrix truggy... nothing spectacular, but just wanted to share. this footage captures recents mods, which includes RTR buggy chassis braces, a .26 v2 Sportwerks engine and ST-RR front truggy axles/cvd's. hey, don't forget to click on the " view in high quality link " on the lower right corner of the panel: {link removed... currently at odds with the .26 sportwerks, so i took the post down}

*FULL-REVS*

well.... finally got my BCE chassis conversion complete with new ring and pinion gears.... and WOW!!! still got a few minor tweeks to make... but what a difference!!!!!! now its been recomended to change to a 48T spur gear from 46T with a 13T clutch bell.... but what if i dropped to a 12T clutch bell??? sort of meeting in the middle... like a happy meadium...

Tree1

Glad to hear it is all working out for you *FULL-REVS*. I finally ordered my BCE chassis a couple of weeks ago. I can't ait to get the new chassis and put the TR together and through its paces at the track. Keep us posted on any tweaks you need to do or have done. Good luck.

trarena

hey adam, good to hear BCE conversion going well. It drives a bit different eh?!! You'll prob find the 12T will work with the 46T bell but you'll end up with a fair amount of torque with resulting wheel spin especially on anything but a hard packed smooth track (and i haven't been to many of those recently in NZ!). The ratios for that set up are similar to using a 50T spur with a 13T bell. You could maybe experiment with carbon shoes and the black springs to try and reduce some clutch engagement but IMHO the best all round centre gear set up is to use the lightened Kyosho 48T with either the Cen 13T or Reckward Tuning 13T bell, Cen blue ali shoes (maybe 2 ali, 1 carbon) with the cen 1.1 gold springs, gene's x pins and 15K oil. Until you are ready for that I would run with the 13T bell and with that maybe even give 20K centre oil a shot.

So much of this though will depend on the track conditions... when it's wet and muddy it's hard to get any power down so it's difficult to guage the real effect of gearing and oil changes. By the way have you entered the Waikato buggy event?

*FULL-REVS*

hey Mike.... not entered.... yet.... will have to have a look at the dates etc..... our track is pretty smooth and packed (see image) but i need to go have a entire day of testing on both my buggy and truggy... i feel i will have to lighten my shock oils a tad now to.... hopefully will get to the track this weekend..... if it ever stops raining....

also thank you dor all your help so far.... especailly when id had enough and was about to put it on trade me for $1 reserve LOL....

mattyb13

Have any of you ever tried the JCONCEPTS STRR ILLUZION Body on the Matrix TR? I think the body loks hot and amain is backordered on the JCONCEPTS for the Mugen truggy....

Tree1

MattyB13 e-mail sent

mx757

Is anyone else having problems with the front turnbuckles bending? seems like i bend one or 2 every week i run.

Tree1

Upgrade to Gene Hickerson's turnbuckles.

<link removed>

or you can insert hinge pins through the hollow stock ones which will help prevent them from bending.

Edit: Linking to auctions in this manner is not allowed per [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_377662/tm.htm]RCU Community Rules[/link].

mattyb13

Fellahs,
I am going to run a HITEC %^$% in My Matrix truggy. I have the aluminum servo saver arm from CEN. I am planning on using whats in the link below to connect the servo to the servo saver arm...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4073

My question is this... How do I connect the arm in the link above to the servo arm and the servo saver arm?!?! I feel like I suould get this but I a super confused. can you guys help out?
THANKS!

Tree1

I used the titanium rods from Lunsford. They are a lot lighter. To repalce them just pop the ends of the balls and to installed press them on.

wriffwraff

yep, what " Tree " said... i have genes turnbuckles for my upper front suspension, however, i use lunsford/xray for my servo arm linkage and plan to use lunsford/xray for the steering arm linkages and the rear upper suspension as well. here's retail links for the lunsford and xray parts for the servo setup:

servo rod: http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...Category_Code= { you get two, so you'll have a spare }

servo rod pivot balls: http://www.gshobby.com/index.php?mai...ducts_id=13846

servo rod plastic end pieces: http://www.gshobby.com/index.php?mai...ducts_id=13970

lunsford linkage rods combined with xray's ends and pivots really make for a smooth set up... here's a link to the full blown conversion: http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/in...howtopic=12395

wrob

This is probably going to sound like a troll... I'm not... As you guys may have followed my posts, I've had nothing but trouble with my CEN since I bought it. It started with the long front, old style, suspension arms. Since I bought my truggy, about 6-weeks ago, I have only been able to drive it the intial time - about 5-minutes. Under warrenty, CEN has either sent me the wrong part (rear swing arms) or the old style front swing arms. I just returned from the post office, sending the stuff back to them again. I'm so frustrated that it's unbelievable. If I hadn't invested in stuff like Gene's turnbuckles, new ring and pinion gears, engine, etc. I'd just take the Truggy and throw it in the trash.

Looking at the Better Business Bureau site, Genka (CEN) has a really bad reputation.

http://www.labbb.org/BBBWeb/Forms/Bu...anyID=13214093

I'm at the point of filing a complaint myself (not that it does any good - apparently), and calling Visa to see if I can get my credit card purchase rolled back. Depends on if I finally get the right parts or not.

What kind of company doesn't change their part numbers when they upgrade a part? Good way to make angry customers.

Anyways, I have a lot of respect for you guys and the things you've done with your TRs. No hit on you guys...

PS. Their advertising seems misleading. On their web site it says, " Durability you can see: The Matrix Arena TR utilizes CEN's extremely durable turn buckle system which are very beefy yet lightweight. The turn buckles are hollow to increase strength and reduce weight. The rod ends are super thick for unmatched durability."

That's the first piece to go.... The turnbuckles bend like spaghetti.
http://www.cenracing.com/area51/51_truggy.html

Anyways, I would NOT sell something to any of you that I knew was not right (the front lower swing arms).

Picture, "The problem with my side of the mailbox"

taj

Just would like to know what motors are being use in your tr. will be first time replacing motor in my tr. i still have thr sh .28 from my rtr, and have tried a dynamite .26. have 300.00 to spend.
thanks

wrob

First, think about whether you want to keep the stock ring and pinion gears. I believe they are different than the ones that come with the FRE kit. I think the gear ratio is 2.89 and with the FRE kit the gear ratio is 3.45 (?). The part numbers are MXS38 & MXS37. The 2.89 look to be made of cast metal and the 3.45 machined steel. After that, probably run a strong .21..

I've got a new Picco P3 .28, different clutch and clutch bell, with the steel differential gears. Bought the Picco .28 before I realized the gearing differences. My .21 wasn't pulling well out of corners.

If all goes really well I'll drop back and put a .21 NovaRossi in it. Just sent it out to be mod'ed. A strong .21 could really put some rpm to it and use less fuel than a .28.

Reiterate: For what ever reason, assuming gearing (not a lot of experience here yet), the .21 did not pull out of corners well with the RTR gearing. I'm not really sure what the entire gear train differences there are between the FRE and RTR. Anyways, I'm thinking there's more to consider.

Gear Ratio info source:
teamnovak.com/products/brushless/conversion_kits/diagrams/55-5011D-1_CEN.pdf

Photo's of RTR cast ring gears.

taj

ihave both thr fre and rtr, i would only be buying a motor for the fre. so it would the way it is

wrob

Are you going to race it? Is fuel mileage important? Are you thinking .28 or .21?

taj

just a back yard basher