feo

Quick starter box question.

The red and black receptacles/jacks on my starter box are in opposite places than the starter box pictured above. Does it matter? I dont want this thing to short out first try.

Tree1

Nope...it doesn't matter as long as the polarity to the motor and battery are the same (positive to positive & negative to negative).

mattyb13

Will the PROLINE CROWD PLEAZER FOR THE MUGEN MBX-5T fit our MATRIX ARENA TRUGGYS? THanks

littlelane

can some one tell me how to convert to 17mm wheels and tires it would also help to have the part numbers really new to this and could use some help thanks in advance

wriffwraff

A) CEN Racing Rear Axle, part# CEGMX093 [you'll need two of these for the rear end. they are not sold in pairs]
B) Thunder Tiger Red Lightened Self-Locking Wheel Hex Nuts, S3 [TTRPD1865] [sold in four]
C) Thunder Tiger 1/8 Hex Wheel Adapter Set, part# S3[TTRPD1924] [sold in four]

note: if your truck is fairly new, you should have the new shorter arms up front, so you shouldn't have to worry about issues of the past, like axles binding, dog bones popping out or shimming the front axles. again, all that is a thing of the past if you have the newer shorter arms. also, i don't think that the rear cen axles are an absolute must. i can't remember for sure, but i think that they're optional. i bought them b/c i didn't want to worry about shimming the rear. it's been awhile, but as i recall, the buggy axles are lighter and you don't have to fumble with shims if you go that route. to save a little money on tires and wheels, i run 17mm maximizer bead-locks and [oldschool] " non-lpr " proline tires. you don't need glue with beadlocks, so they allow you to keep the wheels and just change the tires and the foams. however, any 17 mm hex wheel and compatible tire combo will work. i mean, just make sure you check the specifications to ensure that you get the correct fitting tire for whatever rims/wheels you choose.

littlelane

thanks for the help you mentioned the rear axles what about the front

wriffwraff

the buggy axles and the truggy axles are the same diameter. so, truth be known, you can just keep the truggy axles, front and rear, if you want to. the buggy rears are a few mm's shorter in length than the truggy rear axles. so, if you buy the rear buggy axles, shimming is not needed. in contrast, if you use the truggy [rear] axles, you'll need to " shim up " the rear axles. so, bottom line, the only thing you're really changing is the diameter of the hex hubs... from 23 mm to 17 mm. so, the conversion really only calls for 17 mm hex hubs, wheel nuts, hub pins and grub screws. the pins and the grub screws hold the hex hubs on the axles. the grub screws are inserted or screwed into those little openings on the ends of your axles. again, they secure your pins, which secure your hubs. i'm not 100% sure, but i think the front grubs are 5 mm's and the rears are 3 mm's.

note: i use buggy rears b/c they're lighter and you don't need shims. also, i replaced my cen fronts with kyosho universals b/c the design offers more steering throw. also, the design appears to be more efficient and durable.

littlelane

i really appreciate the help and will use this for my next upgrade would also like to here about the kyosho front axle swap again thanks for the help

brianmarks78

hey there, just curious but does anyone know if cen matrix arena is like another car. Compatable parts?
Example- tmaxx and emaxx are pretty close, redcat/himoto are pretty much the same. Is cen arena the same as another truggy out there on the market?
brian

Junier00

I've found that parts from the kyosho 777 truggy fit. I'm using the front upper arms from a kyosho STRR, using kyosho 17mm hubs with front and rear kyosho axles. Also using the kyosho center shafts (front/rear), a lot of parts from the matrix line of buggys also fit. I got this truggy about a month ago and don't know anyone that has one around me, so I don't know much about it yet. Hopefully someone will come in and add to the list. A lot of the parts on the matrix are heavier than the kyosho counter parts, so I've been replacing the parts to make the truggy a bit lighter and saving the stock parts for spares so I can make quick repairs at the track.

*FULL-REVS*

well worth doing when i changed them i also dremeled out a bit of plastic where it was clashing and the amount of steering i gained is insane i could never take the nice tight line that i wanted to untill i did this mod

wriffwraff

hey, junier00, you referenced the kyosho 777 truggy. nonetheless, if i may ask, are you running the st-rr Kyosho Lightweight Universal Swing Shafts (ST-RR) [KYOIS103] on the rear of your cen truggy as well? i ask b/c i converted from cen truggy to kyosho st-rr truggy axles up front. they're far superior to stock, so i'm wondering if it's possible to convert the rear axle from cen to kyosho st-rr as well? i mean, if so, i'm guessing that i would have to use kyosho st-rr rear wheel carriers, the proper sized wheel carrier bearings, and of course, the st-rr swing shafts. if you would confirm my thoughts, i'd appreciate it. if not, thats cool too. i mean, i'm just really trying to figure a way to improve the rear axle set up. my center drive and front axles are st-rr, so it'd be great to kyosho the rear axles as well. i'm even thinking of kyosho'ing my diffs, as "tree" did awhile back.

note: it seems peculiar to use swing shafts on the rear as well... i'm wondering what keeps them from trying to turn a little or wiggling around? perhaps, the cen one's turn too... i can't remember and i don't have the time to take the rear axle apart right now to confirm.

oh well, again, any info or confirmation you or anyone else can offer would be great.

thanks

Junier00

That's actually a typo. My mistake, I got mixed up thinking about the front/rear cva shafts. I actually did try to use the swing shafts in the rear and it did not work. The st-rr rear carriers work, but the shafts I got from a st-rr parts lot are too short. I've been looking around to see if I can make this work but cannot find much information. I'm trying to find out how long the rear shafts are supposed to be on the st-rr truggy. For some reason I think the ones I have are from a buggy. They're just too short and the st-rr is about a .25" wider than the matrix so I can't see how this axles I have would fit the st-rr anyway.... I guess I have to keep researching, I don't want to dump 50$ on a set of axles and have it be the wrong ones. The cen ones work great, but the kyosho ones are so light...

wriffwraff

thanks for the response. however, it appears that i had already asked about the st-rr rear axle and hub conversion last september, after " outtafocus ", a member of truggyracers.com, posted pics of his cen truggy with the st-rr rear axles and hubs. i imagine he had to use whatever inner hub bearings are required as well. here's a link to his post, #313: http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/in...c=10135&st=300

Junier00

This confirms that the axles that I have are from a kyosho buggy and not the st-rr truggy. I'm going to order the axles in a couple of weeks and hopefully it will work. They're quite a bit lighter than stock axles.

feo

Out of curiosity, what temperature do your SH's run at?

mattyb13

I am not currently running the stock SH.28 that comes with the Arena but I have broken in 2 of them and when properly sealed and broken in that thing screamed at Just over 200 deg, and held a tune so well. I was really really impressed. I actually have one broken in and ready to go as my backup.

feo

What would the effects of an improperly sealed engine be?

The Real Dogman

Irregular unstable idle and overheating

feo

Ah, I guess my engine isnt sealed correctly then. Temperature rose to 360F once. Scared the hell out of me [X(]. Should I seal the backplate with some liquid gasket?

mattyb13

My advice... Seal the backplate, the carb opening and the needles. It is worth it...

romax

feo , i had a similar problem , sealed the engine & still had problem. Traced prob. to bad fuel tank lid. I've had several go bad. I saw a fix after i had installed a jammin tank. I think it was to take the two parts of the lid off clean & glue them together. I bet if that's your problem one of the guys on here can tell you the fix. Sealing the engine is a good idea regardless.

wriffwraff

yeah, the X2 tank is the best/coolest solution. i had to drill two new holes for it and i had to move and drill a new hole for my exhaust holder, but it was kinda' worth it. be advised that you have to [separately] order some sort of X2 fuel line holder kit, otherwise, you won't be able to properly thread your fuel line around the fuel tank. it's weird that they sell them separately, but they do.

to date, i've only sealed one of my engines, but i think i'm going to start making it a practice to do so, as my engines seem to die prematurely. anyway, here's a great article with fantastic pics: http://www.savage-central.com/module...Forums&t=54465 | also, here's a decent video regarding engine sealing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xwDy...e=channel_page [ this video doesn't detail exactly where or how to seal the needles or the carb, so you'll need to refer to the article for that. the video only offers a general description of engine sealing, however, it does show you how to seal the backplate of the engine ]

note: also, i'm not 100% sure, but it appears that you do not have to use "green slime" or any other special "hobby sealant" for the needles. again, i could be wrong, but it looks like you can use way less expensive automotive engine gasket sealant/silicon for everything. that's what i've used in the past when i did make the time to seal an engine. if someone knows better, please post. otherwise, it looks like the hobby sealant is all about marketing, as it's simply high temperature silicon. reminds me of the expensive hobby glue that's sold for tires. i mean, from what i can tell, tire glue is nothing special either. it's the same as crazy glue or CA glue. it just costs at least 4 times as much. in all cases, the only thing you have to do is to remember to use is sparingly and to give it at least 24 hrs to properly cure or set up.

note 2.0: i stand in grave hypocrisy, as i ordered a tube of green slime with my new engine i think it's a petroleum based sealant, so it's prolly' the only way to go with a needle seal, you know?

Maple Hillbilly

I was wondering what kind of speed I should be getting out of my stock matrix rtr? Just broke it in and only hitting about 32 mph. any suggestions on more speed or more power would be great. like gearing or better motor I have a lrp .28 truggy engine I could put in it if I have to but would rather run stock engine until it dies..

mattyb13

32 MPH out of a stock Matrix Truggy isnt that bad actually. You can gear the hell out of it if you want but you will always sacrifice bottom end for top speed. A new or different engine would make a difference. Speed costs money though. I had an LRP .28 in my Arena for awhile it was pretty stout. I run a GO .21 5 Port modified engine now... P L E N T Y!!!