HerrSavage

This is my first time ever trying a startbox. I spent all day using my cheapo dremel to shave down some screws to get the SW backplate to fit with the Muggy one-piece engine mount, then got the pipe on, the mesh set, etc etc.. Now, when I try to put the Muggy on the box, it doesn't work.. So I took the front pins off...

But when I try to set the truck down where I think the wheel will turn the flywheel, it just burns, makes a loud noise, and stinks like burned rubber... The rear pins on the button thing I moved to the widest possible point to allow the Muggy to fit.. Whatever I try the wheel won't turn the flywheel..

***??.. This first try with a startbox so far is turning out to be a PIA....

stussman

wat box did you end up getting? I was lucky with my tt box, it only needed slight adjustment for my hellfire and has enough juice to turn over my os 28. Sounds very painful for you after all the posts telling you to get one.

HerrSavage

It's the TT box.. The Muggy seems too big for it...

madmax22

maybe shave you flywheel hole thing so its open a little bit more. I had to do this w/ my buggy and a duratrash starter box.

revopqrs

crack the plug loose so itll turn over. that will make it easier for you to get the hang of starting it. once you get it figured out you wont have any trouble.

supertib

Also be sure the motor is not stuck at TDC....if a motor is stuck the box will have troubles.... best bet is to make sure motor is past TDC so the box can get a bit of momentum.........And as Revoqrs says take the glowplug out as well....

Is the motor mount a pullstart motor mount ? most pullstart mounts sit too high for bumpstarting a motor ...... as well is the flywheel a proper starter box flywheel ? RTR flywheels are usually a smaller diameter

trot4fun

I used a starter box for the first time today as well. After a lot of research (because the starter box came with almost no instructions) I found the key was setting up the pins to make sure the wheel was aligned properly with the engine flywheel. Best way to do this is using a marker, make marks in the chassis where the center of the flywheel is compared to the hole in the chassis. Then remove the engine and put the car on the starter box aligning the center of the starter box wheel with the marks you made on the chassis. Set the pins so you can repeat the alignment everytime. I did this with mine and it worked well. I have the small Ofna box that uses 2 stick batteries.

stussman

As the others say i always make sure its past tdc and sometimes losen the plug depending on the temperature. I especially did this when the os 28 was new. The standard flywheel on my hellfire was large enough for the box wheel to grab. Iam sure you will get it right soon and see how great bump boxs are.

vnmsgt

I flip the truck upside down and then remove the plate from the starter box and place it on the chassis and make sure the flywheel is centered with the hole for the starter box wheel and then tighten down the pins in there location.

HerrSavage

Ok, here's what I'm up against.. Took the engine out.. The rubber wheel completely stuffs up the slot... It's as if the wheel has too big a diameter or something..

madmax22

take a dremel and shave down a bit and a little wider.

HerrSavage

I don't know if I trust my dremel skills - or dremel............ - to go hacking away at the chassis... The chassis is already about to break through on the other side of the bumpstart slot to the little screw hole..

To get that thing to fit in there, seems to me like I'd have to make it a good half inch wider, and a few mm thicker...

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

You could trim the wheel down a bit, it wouldn't hurt you any, since you won't need the outside of the wheel.

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Just start the wheel, so it's spinning, and get a file or something and file the wheel down a bit so there's that raised spot in the middle that's big enough to catch your flywheel.

madmax22

+1 to banned

azzman

Hey Patrick, just so you can get some comparisons...my starterbox wheel is 90mm diameter and 10mm thick, my hole in my chassis is 14mm x 36mm and my flywheel is sitting about 1.5mm up from being flush with the bottom of the chassis...so comparing it to yours what is the most different, Im thinking maybe your flywheel is sitting higher...maybe you could widen your slot a couple of mm like you say and just chamfer the edge a bit on the sides (curved part) of the opening...ideally you should not need to get the wheel to stick up through the top of the chassis so maybe you engine mounts are a little high...

Hope this helps man, cause once you get it sorted you will be a very happy man...

revopqrs

ya... what he said. its lookin to me like the motor mounts are too tall, or the flywheel is too small? you shouldnt have to stuff the rubber wheel into the opening like that, the flywheel should be almost flush with the bottom of the chassis.

HerrSavage

The motor mount can't be any shorter - it's the one-piece mount for the Muggy...

I hacked away with my cheapo dremel last night a bit.. Looks terrible, but I'll mess with it more later..

Could somebody post a pic or link of the right bit to use, and of a good hand file that would do the trick? Thanks..

ps I think I'm gonna stop trying to thicken the hole in the chassis though, and instead focussing on lengthening it.. Instead of thickening it I'll try to chamfer the wheel..

(That was the first time I've ever used the word "chamfer" - had to look it up in the dictionary.... [sm=confused.gif])

azzman

I use these 2 bits...the big one first then finish off with the smaller one.

HerrSavage

Thanks.. I just bought a little rounded edge hand file.. Million times easier - and smoother more even surface... Still doesn't seem like the Muggy wants to fit, so more fiddling to do..

HerrSavage

I'm about to give up.. Fxxx this.. I appreicate you guys' help, but fxxx this... What a PIA.. No way this TT box works with the Muggy.. Think the box might be toast by now anyway.. The dumb wire got all eaten up by the wheel.. And here I've gone filing and shaving off the Muggy's chassis, a truck that already has chassis flex issues as it is...

Fxxx starterboxes.. Seriously... I'll take my OWB issues any day over this nonsense.. And after all that, even IF I somehow get it to work for the Muggy(ain't gonna happen), then when I want to run the Hyper on it I'd have to undo everything.. Seriously not worth it...

HerrSavage

Well, a dude on a German forum told me to get some normal ole' M3 20mm screws and washers and use them instead of the stock pins on the box, thus allowing more clearance.. So I went down to the LHWS(local hardware store..) and picke up a small assortement of washers and screws(grand total of €1.08), came home, mounted it up, tried it out, and it kinda' seemed like ti might work.. So, I got to work hooking up linkages, threadlocking engine bolts, testing the radio, etc.., and decided to go try it out..

And........................


........................it worked!.. And really well - as far as getting it started.. I also took my Savage with me cuz I half expected it not to, and wanted something to do - so it WAS a PIA having to carry the box, along with two trucks and a backpack.. I managed though..

Ultimately the box proved OK - I was feeling much more positive about things until the motor just FELL OUT... No idea why - no sign.. Just heard a weird noise while trying to start, took the truck off, and saw the box motor just danling there... ***?? Anyway, I wanted to get my last heat cylce through(2 1/2 tanks, about 10 cycles I think..) for the day, so had to fxxx with the thing to get it to start one last time.. Finally just screwed the screws back in.. Should I threadlock those??..

The Mach seems very peppy... The clutch doesn't seem to bite too hard from the line, but the engine seems to defo have some oomph.. Starting was great, idle, etc.. Wasn't really video-worthy, but well, I didn't have much else to do....

Vid in a sec - taking a minute..

HerrSavage

http://video.google.de/videoplay?doc...60715199&hl=de

supertib

THe Muggy one peice mount isn't really meant for a starterbox is it ? As well i dont think the MUggy chassis was ever intended for a starterbox either, as that cutout looks awefully small............ As well I said at the beginning of the thread the RTR flywheel is a much smaller dimaeter then a starterbox flywheel....... a RTR flywheel is purposely small so it can clear tight areas, a starterbox flywheel is larger so it can be reached easier by the starter wheel............If you were trying to setup your Hyper ST Pro you would not be having any of these issues...... Your issues are mainly from trying to use a starter box on an application not really intended for a starter box..even a proper flywheel would have made your life much easier..... When you setup your Hyper ST your going to laugh at your issues your having with the Muggy...

Nino81

Well for a truck that wasnt made for the box you did a great job getting it to work.From the vid you posted it looked like it started with no trouble at all.GJ