chedster

What clutch kit is that? I say try running without the big shim

shankdog626

It's a Kyosho clutch kit.
funny you should say that. a buddy of mine
that work on it when I had the old motor in it
looked at me and looked at the big shim and asked me what
this was for and laughed and threw it away and he said it's
good to have a little play with the clutch bell so it's free.

nucular

Yeah, that's a little different than others I have seen. Once you have everything installed, that screw should be tight againt the SG Shaft (or spacer on the end of the shaft which you dont appear to have with this setup). At this point, you should be able to move the clutchbell just a fraction of an inch - I.E. that screw should not be tightened against the clutchbell itself. If it is, it will squeeze on the clutch bell bearings and make them lock up. If you are pressing against the clutchbell, you just need to do one of two things. Either remove shims until there is freeplay in the bell or if you can't remove enough then add a shaft spacer and then add shims until there is freeplay.



Here is an OFNA clutch shim kit - the spacers are the tophat shaped items.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNT03&P=7

shankdog626

Okay, a little play then.

FYI~ that screw at the end....the spacer is on it I just forgot to separate them for the picture.
It's a hex socket screw with a blue aluminum spacer.

Thanks Nucular, will try this after work today and will let you guys know how it goes.

*FULL-REVS*

from the picture.... those flywheels are shocking for "catching" the clutch shoes.... while its apart like that put a small screwdriver in between the shoe and bolt and simulate the shoe flicking out as it would with the motor running.... does it fully return??? or stay out a bit.... also.... i never use that real big washer (closest to the crank) i normally go... 1 or 2 small shims then one beering... now check the clutch bell doesnt rub on the fly wheel...if it does add another small shim put the clutch bell on... pop the other beering in... making sure its seating all the way down.... i now put the end bolt on tighten it and see how much play there is....take the bolt out add a small shim if needed... bolt back in... spin clutch bell making sure A)its not rubbing the fly wheel B)it spins freely.... C) there isnt to much play.... looking at the pic again that big washer is just another place for the shoes to catch...

hope thats of some help man....
Adam

shankdog626

That's a lot of help, thanks !
So you don't put the washer or spacer after the outside bearing just a and a shim or two
and the screw?

As for the shoes, they are new so they are very tight and come all the way back for sure.

shankdog626

And finally I think I have it.

Plain and simple too many shims/washers.

But the ultimate kick in the nuts........Starter box is now DEAD.

HAhahahahahahhahaha

Vigilante212

lol that sucks.

nucular

I bought a Jammin CR roller last year and finally got around to building it up this past month. I broke in a couple tanks just idling on the starter box and started having all kinds of problems where the the car wouldn't go on the ground. The wheels spun fine in the air but when it was on the ground - nothing. I could look in and see that the clutchbell just wasnt spinning. I took that stupid clutch apart about 5 times. I replaced the shoes, the springs... i was at a loss. Finally I thought to myself "I wonder if the guy I bought it from put one of the diffs on backward". I held the car up and sure enough, the front tires were rolling forward and the rear tires were rolling backward.... wasted a good couple of hours before I realized that.

Not much to add other than I feel your pain.

shankdog626

I hear a lot of horror diff stories, I had my growing pains there too.
Kept striping the ring and pinion gears, got to be proficient in replacing
and knowing about them though.

Thanks for all your guys' help on this.
Asap, I'ma fire this thing back up and finish the break in today.
Everything got charged over night.