g-townmach

Are the problems w/ the 8-t servo's burning up because of the actual servo or beacuse of the throttle linkage. My question is, is it only the 8-t RTR's that are having their servos burn up??..because its an improper end point setting on the servo from the factory? Or is it the actaul linkage or something else causing the problems so it will effect the roller version? Reason being is that i'm thinking about doing the race roller and using either a hitec or hobbico servo for the throttle and of course ACE 1015 for steering.. but i might second guess it if everyone is having these problems b/c i don't like to buy new servos unless it was my own fault for breaking them.

rebelracer246

what it is the endpoints arnt really set right from the factory and the servo tray flexes if you dont have them set right i have only blowen one so far knoc on wood

SycoCell

My Feedback: (3)

Yeah ditto. But mine blew for some odd other reason. I always set all my EPA's before running it. But it could have been caused by the flexing of the tray as well.

rebelracer246

ya that will do it

FatBoyObese

I must admit that I set my epa's before every run too....just can't afford not to as the servos I run are not cheap lol.
There are those around that say you don't need the 'o' rings under the battery box on the 8ight t but I still use them as I haven't got the balls not to just in case I trash another servo

slayerphonics

Most people are blowing the cheap weak stock servo, if your blowing high dollar servos your doing something wrong, i've run a hi-tec 685mg for about 8 months with problems, but i did blow the stock servo,

rebelracer246

i only blew a cheap servo but i havent blew a good servo yet

SycoCell

My Feedback: (3)

I don't use those o-rings under the reciever box. I would have, but i was in the a rush to change out throttle servos right before my main began, so i lost the rings.

K_B

I'm currently running the radio tray with no o-rings and a tray stiffener and I blew out an Airtronics 358 recently. Turned out that I forgot the spacers to get the servo off the chassis. I'm pretty amazed it lasted 4 months with the beatings and vibrations it was subjected to I just blew a Hitec 5997 this weekend. Not sure if it's the dodgy servo lead or the setup. Linkages weren't absolutely perfect but not way outta wack either. I'm hoping it's the servo lead... gonna run the o-rings from now on and see what happens.

Also, instead of o-rings, a fellow racer is using two layers of double sided servo tape instead. It still provides the necessary cushion, but you don't have to fool with threading o-rings...

rebelracer246

im not running the orings and i am running the stiffiner and i blew a crappy servo so im not that upset

windowlicker

what actually causes the servos to give out, just out of interest? Is it because the EPA has been set too far and the linkage is straining to move further under full throttle or braking?

rebelracer246

that and its because the servo its self is twisting and they dont like to do that alot and if they hit the chassis that will crack the case and short the motor out

K_B

It can be one or more of many things; EPAs, binding linkages from chassis/tray flex, improper clearance between chassis and servo, or just poor quality servos.

SycoCell

My Feedback: (3)

I'm surprised the radio tray isn't aluminum. My muggy has an aluminum stock stray. Plus that muggy one is 100x faster to remove since the 4 screws are right on the top

rebelracer246

there is only 4 screws on the 8t and its off i can get it out quick

g-townmach

thanks for the replies

rebelracer246

no problem

g-townmach

so is it safe to say that if i use a quality servo in the race roller w/ the o rings under tha tray and the endpoints set right (which i know how to do and am pretty anal about) i'll be good??

rebelracer246

you should be unless you get the one weird servo that blows as soon as you put it in witch i have had lol

SycoCell

My Feedback: (3)

Yeah taking them off is easy. But putting it back on is a tad more annoying because it's on the under-side. Yeah i know, it's not that big of a deal, but it's just one of those things that bugs me since there isn't anything else i can complain about on the truggy!

rebelracer246

lol ya i know i have only blown a servo and lost a drive pin and blown shocks

FatBoyObese

Have to agree with you there....changed my stock rtr servo for an ACE DS1015 as I wanted a little more power and speed on the steering and it lasted all of 1 minute...and yes I had set it up properly
Turned out that although it is marketed as a metal geared servo there is a plastic gear lurking in there and it gave up....servo saver was backed right off as well so it should have been fine..got a HiTec HSR5995TG in there now and it's peachey

INTEGRA

the 1015's are supposed to have that plastic gear....its no fluke.

travis4380

Here is a great link on how to set your throttle servo up. You may have to register to see it, but it is worth it.
[link=http://hdrcvideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=5308]Throttle set-up[/link]

FatBoyObese

Must admit I was gutted when I found out....specially when it was marketed as an all metal gear servo[:@]
Are there any servos that you know of that are all metal or do they all have a plastic gear lurking in them.
Looking for a high power servo to replace the ace