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GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

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GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Old 07-21-2008, 05:03 PM
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windowlicker
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Default GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CAxP3-fY8g

Here is a video of my GO .25. This is the first time the engine has been started. As you can see, the engine has been preheated with a hair dryer (I began this before I started recording, and just reheated it again just before I fired it up). I got the engine up to just below 200F and tried to start it. I primed the engine, but I think the idle was set too low and kept cutting out! Very stressful times!

After a few seconds of it running I check the temperature, 267F! I gave up and let it cut out. I had put the needle settings to stock, and then backed out the low speed needle by a turn, and the high speed by about one and a half turns before I began the break in, but there was not very much smoke at all (as you can see), and the temps I feel were way too high. I will maybe take the engine apart tomorrow and see if it is damaged and was running lean. During this video, I used hardly any fuel at all, and the tank is nearly full (16% Tornado Fuel Oil Plus [Extra oil]). I will back the needles out a bit more tomorrow when I complete the break in procedure, and get it as rich as I can without it cutting out.

All that you see on the video is what has been done so far, I went out for a meal tonight so left it at BDC to cool and left it... I'm so stressed, I feel I have just ruined my engine!
Old 07-21-2008, 06:04 PM
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madmax22
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

[:@] wheres the vid??[&:] that sucks sounds like a leak! check you pressure line and you fuel line i had this happen it was rich as anything and temps were sky high but it was just my pressure line.... if not then sounds like you got a leak somewhere....[:@]
Old 07-21-2008, 06:39 PM
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windowlicker
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

the vid is being processed by youtube, waiting for it to finish so I can link it.

Just tested the engines pinch, and it is too tight to roll over by hand, so I feel a little relieved. I will have a better look tomorrow when I take the head off and check the liner.

As I said before, I will get it running, raise the idle, and richen it up as much as I possibly can. So annoyed though, spent so long preparing, getting the linkages set up, the radio, trims etc, the batteries all fully charged, the starter box perfectly lined up etc etc. And I just feel it all went wrong!
Old 07-21-2008, 07:10 PM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

I had some GO's that I had to turn the HSN out 2 turns from box setting to break in. Adjusting the LSN during break in like that just idling will not really do anything for temps.
Old 07-21-2008, 11:11 PM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

I have put three tanks thru my Go .21 5 port with this break in method. It has worked great with good temps. I pulled the motor apart because I noticed some metal shavings on plug but motor looks fine. Will replace the bearings to be safe. There was plenty of oil in the engine so I know its getting lubed properly. This is taken off of the rctech.net go tech forum. Give it a shot as it works pretty good.

There are various break in methods out there, but the one I have cut and pasted below is from Brian at Pro Twister Mods (mugen46). They are Go-Tech distributors and specialise in modding the Go engines, so they know what they are talking about. The original thread is at the bottom of page 78 on this forum. Follow this procedure and you should be sweet. I have broken in my Go engines using this method and they all run great.

¨GO engine breakin

there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.

Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.

Installing the engine.

After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.

Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.

Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb

Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.¨
Old 07-22-2008, 01:55 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

I'd be more worried about your back wheels not turning... [X(]

But seriously, I wouldn't worry about it too much.. One, 267 isn't all that high.. I sometimes think the tolerances of nitro engines are higher than the narrow parameters we try to impose on them.. I've had engines crap out early that I babied, and a couple last pretty long that I totally abused... Two, nothing you can do about it now.. And three, just fatten it up and start again.. It's probably fine..
Old 07-22-2008, 01:59 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Don't worry about my back wheels not turning, I'm without one of the rear drive shafts which I bent a while ago, still waiting on the parts to come from America!

I can't really be bothered to open her up, I know it was up to temperature, but just maybe not rich enough. I should have taken the time to find the idle screw before I started, that's what I was searching for when I keep moving around the engine!
Old 07-22-2008, 04:49 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

that go 25 will not run well on tornado 16%,get some 25% or even 30% as this is what go motors are shimmed to run.it will run hot until the pinch has gone from the piston/sleeve as the excessive friction near tdc will cause extra heat.
Old 07-22-2008, 04:53 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

I got the 16% oil plus just for the break in, I will go back to my 25% after I have finished this 2.5L can. I wanted to break it in with some low nitro, higher oil fuel. But I run all my cars on Tornado 25%
Old 07-22-2008, 05:31 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Yea i wouldnt worry to much about the temp, if you where doing high RPM at that temp during the first few tanks then thats a bad thing, but if you got the temp with idle then its not too bad. Dont forget your trying to heat everything up without having to use RPM to get everythign expanding and contracting.

I'm still breaking my Go .21 5 Port in, it took me two days to get the bloody thing to start and i have burned out two wheels on my starter box :P Hairdryer never really worked for me, so i had to be a bit more extreme and use a blow torch, only took 1 minute to get it to nearly 300f but it did start fine.

Roughly 5 tanks through break in, need to do a 3-4 more tanks at 1/2 throttle runs. I have noticed the engine starting to free up after 5, and it sounds good. Just need a lean out the LSN a bit tonight to make the runs a bit easier
Old 07-22-2008, 05:36 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Just watched your video and IMO it sounds lean i'd richen the HSN half a turn, or set the needle just above flush.
Old 07-22-2008, 05:43 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Yeah, mine sounded a little disappointing when it first started, I didn't even realise it was running for a split second! I can't wait to see it progress into a screamer, its still so tight, I tried rolling it over for the first time last night after that first break in session, and there was no way I could!

Logi3, is my .25 going to be slower than your .21s? It is specced to just 35500 rpm, whereas your .21 is something like 44000 rpm!!!
Old 07-22-2008, 05:46 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

cheers for all the feedback by the way, esp on the needle settings
Old 07-22-2008, 05:59 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Depends on the track, but if its a drag race i would of though the .21 are faster then the .25's and .28's (if all cars where geared the same) as the .21 rev more, but the .25's/.28's have more torque and would be better out of the corners.

Yup the .21 screams, the 7 port sounds just like a formula 1 car and i cant run it in the street its way to loud lol, even doing a few half throttle runs with the 5 Port it was screaming, i will do a quick vid tonight when im over the car park !
Old 07-22-2008, 06:43 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

i just break the engine in with the same fuel im going to use with it normally,the higher nitro content fuel should help lower your temps as well.the go 25 is tight when new but i dont think its as tight as the 5port i broke in,that was a pia to start when new
Old 07-22-2008, 06:46 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!



Here's a pic of it all yesterday, I took some photos just incase everything blew up!
Old 07-22-2008, 08:03 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!


ORIGINAL: mogi

i just break the engine in with the same fuel im going to use with it normally,the higher nitro content fuel should help lower your temps as well.the go 25 is tight when new but i dont think its as tight as the 5port i broke in,that was a pia to start when new
Tell me about it, i couldnt belive how hard it was ! Just glad i had a blow torch to heat it up lol! I'm finally at the stage with my 5 port where i dont need to heat it up, although the batteries in the box needed to be at a decent state of charge to kick over the engine
Old 07-22-2008, 08:12 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

V is right, my go was a little lean from the factory.

Windowlicker... isn't that an Aphex Twins song?
Old 07-22-2008, 08:51 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Slayer, it certainly is!

I'm currently uploading videos to youtube now so you can all laugh at my pitiful attempt at break in, together with the fact I am going through a glow plug every 10 seconds...
Old 07-22-2008, 09:47 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzbDiyhIJJM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv2vCVNMDlg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UutsTqgbrP8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlxFIrwLAs8


Here are some videos I just took of today's break in attempts. I started yesterday with a HPI R4 (med/cold) plug. And realised today that it cuts out when the glow starter is removed from the engine, so I put in a new R4 plug. Both times I used two copper washers to reduce the compression a little. The second R4 plug burnt out immediately, so I took it out tested it, and yeah, whilst all wet on the bottom part of the plug, the end of the coil was black. So this time I fitted a RB Concepts 6 plug which came with the engine (second hand) I put three washers on it this time as it is a long plug, and I think it has burnt out just as quick as the other two plugs. Now I know you are supposed to be prepared to go through plugs during break in, but immediately?!

I have a few HPI R4 plugs left, one R5 (cold) and a couple of Mccoy MC9 (long cold). But I was expecting to have these spare for a long time, am I doing something wrong to be going through them so quickly? As you can see from the videos, I have richened it up so much that any throttle floods the engine, so I later back the needles in slightly to give it a little less fuel. There is oil spitting out of the exhaust, but not too much smoke, but the needles where so far out at one point I thought I could see the o-ring of the high speed needle!!!

I'm getting very stressed with this break in, I wanted it to go smoothly, I have taken the time to reheat the engine with a hair dryer before each start, but the plugs are dying so fast I don't have chance to check temperatures as taking the glow plug heater off to do so kills the engine!
Old 07-22-2008, 10:15 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

Watching part 3 it sounds much healthier. Whats your LSN at? With all the fiddling you might have the LSN too rich/lean compared with the Idle. I would reset the idle to 1.0mm. and have the LSN either flush or just inside flush.

When starting the car for the first time or after its been left for 10+ minutes you need to blow into the fuel pipe that connects from your exhaust into your tank, take it off the exhaust and blow into it to make sure theres fuel in the carb ready to start.
Old 07-22-2008, 10:31 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

yeah, been doing that.

Just tried again to keep it running, but it keeps stalling. I'm not sure if I've got it too rich. I have just used my 4th plug, a Mccoy MC9 cold, and after about 20 seconds of running, it stalls again, and only keeps running with the glow starter on. The plug looks black at the end like all the other plugs, so I think its dead.

How many plugs do you usually go through during break in? Should I just keep the glow heater on? Thats the only way to keep it running, but then I cant check the temperature!
Old 07-22-2008, 11:14 AM
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Logi3
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

I'm currently using OS #8 and its fine, my ST-1 Engine never blew a plug either so im just lucky :P I've got 4 spares plugs which i've had for 2 months now, i jut dont seem to use them despite running my cars quite hot compared to most (260~270F)
Old 07-22-2008, 11:53 AM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

but what about break in? I'm starting to think that these plugs are fine, and its something else that's causing the stalling. There are no warning signs when it stalls, it simply revs as normal and stops. Even with the glow starter left on it is stalling. My 2-3 minute runs are lasting just 5-10 seconds before I'm having to restart. I've gone through half a tank and have started to lean it a little, to about 1-1.5 turns out from flush on the HSN and flush on the LSN. This is not helping the stalling however, it is just increasing temps a bit.

Any ideas? I hope its not an air leak, I have no silicone sealant, and cannot be arsed to take the engine apart mid break in!
Old 07-22-2008, 01:51 PM
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Default RE: GO .25 Breakin in (heat cycle) F-UP!

its way to rich on both needles at them settings,try flush on hsn and half a turn in on lsn.

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