Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

Hey guys,

After reading the Hyper ST Pro thread, my mind started going, and I can not make it stop. I have the Hyper ST RTR and I am looking for some upgrades.

The only thing I have done so far is replace both servos and I bought a bump box for eaiser starting.

I like to go to the track, but at this point I can not spend mega money to race seriously. So I will enter the races 2-3 a month.

What do you feel will be the most cost effecive upgrades that will make the biggest difference; i.e shocks, tires, engine etc...?

Thanks in advance for you help!

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

Engine
Tyres
Shocks,

In that order

Ive already done the engine, tyres, most of the Pro parts, and not gotta do shocks.

IMO the shocks that come with the Hyper are good, 16MM outside diamiter, 14.5MM inside.

But IMO the Hyper already handles like a cartoon, so a good engine would be the best choice. As you already have a bump box, get a Picco .28, $199 and it is a great motor. As for tyres + wheels, I run the wheels and tyres off my Pro kit ( Dog Bone Style ) and they are extremely good. The stock tyres are extremely grippy as well.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

For racing, anyone will tell you that 75% of the battle is traction. So tires should be #1 unless you feel that the stock tires a hooking up ok.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

Qaiz,

Thanks for the info- As for the "Pro" parts that are using, can you tell me what parts are different than the RTR? I was looking on ebay, and I can pick up shocks, steering knuckeles, and other parts rather cheap. I was wondering if it is worth it?

Also for the engine- if I got a new one like the Picco .28, or Jammin .28, would I need a tuned pipe, or would the stock one be ok.

For tires, you said you are using the dog bones off the pro kit, I assume they hook up well?

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

I have to agree with KB on this. Tires should be your number 1 priority. You can have the best engine out there and if you can't hookup then you just got a great engine that doens't do squat. Do yourself a favor and go to the track you are going to race on and see what tires ppl are running. Ask what hooks up good and go from there.

Good luck.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

Them dogbone (pro tires) are in my opinion NOT as good as the RTR tri pins.... I guess it depends on the type of track your running but i really like the tri pins. HOWEVER my next purchase is definately a set of LRP wheels and bowties ;) The wheels are much wider and the tires have a lower profile. Giving much more traction and stability.

I find my stock engine to be just powerful enough to be consitently smooth with it, so for me the engine is lower down the pecking order.... i just see NO point in superfast uncontrolable speed that ends up as 90% wheel spin. Same with the shocks i find stockers perform pretty well, maybe a few different sets of springs and oil and get them dialled in nicely. Have a play also with the diff oils this can make a huge difference.

Ive opted for a few upgrades like craddock disc's, protune link setup on a allu servo horn with the pro cams and diff plate. Ive also put a support on the servo tray to stop it flexing. A few simple upgrades like changing bushes to bearings in the ackerman. CNC knuckles on standby in my spares box and finally will EVENTUALLY upgrade to cvds all round (just require the rears when i can be bothered). Im just about to swapout my radio gear for a hitec CRX/DCX with hitec servos gives some nice fine tuning options.

I dont really go for all the bling graphite and allu stuff i like the plastic shock towers the flex without permanent bending or fracturing. imo NO need for the graphite chassis tray.

At the end of the day you know the knuckles need replacing asap (althoug im still running stockers without an issue), brakes definately need seeing too and a set of LRP's. I would the just say play with oils and buy the parts you feel happy with upgrading. Yes at some point i would change the radio and engine if you want to be very competitive or you just cant get the hang of tuning that mill. Break then replace with an upgrade in my opinion unless you got spare cash.... i really want a setup station but i just cant bring myself to shelling out for 1 lol....

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

Thanks for the info! When looking for rims and tires, you mention LRP. Does anyone have any links for the correct set up for the Hyper? I know that there are many options with regards to offset, and not sure what ones to pick.

As for diff oils- any suggestions? And is there grease, or oil in the RTR from the factory? If so do I need to get rid of that , and how?

Shocks- any suggestions on weight?

Snoop- I have not had a chance to see what are my settings on the needles. I will update the other thread when it stops raining.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

1) As for tyres, for me personally the dog bone's work perfectely on the track I run on, those small paddle like things grip like crazy. No idea for the LPR's tho.

2) You'd have to experiment, I just changed my diff oil to 7 - 30 - 5 today, still havent had a chance to try it out. And it comes filled with grease from the factory. I got rid of it with a lil bit of Nitro, cycled the diffs around for a bit, a bit of water to wash it out, tissues and WD40 to dry it, re filled it and that was it. Most people run 7 - 10 - 5. That was too loose for me.

3) Again, you'd have to experiment depending on your track conditions, I run 40F - 45R. Ill be changing that too to 30F - 35R and giving that a go.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

1. The LRP are the Proline LRP Velocity 17mm wheels with 1/2 offset. Then you can choose either the Crimefighter, Hole Shot, or Bowties LRP tires to fit on those rims depending on what your track condition is.

2. I run 7/10/5 and is a good place to start. YOu can always change out from there.

3. I am running 40/45 again a good starting point depending on track conditions.

Good luck.

RE: Upgrading the Hyper ST RTR
 

It all depends on driving preference (i like to drive from the rear) and track conditions

im running 7/20/3 f/c/r and find i still need to up the front a little, prolly settle for 10/20/3 its quite hard to work out whats what with the diff oils as having too much power to the back wheels will make the trucks front wheels raise and unload them which inturn creates front ballooning(most people would pressume its was to low a centre oil when actually to heaviy an oil).... like wise running low oils in the front and centre will also create balloning from pure power rather than the wheelying effect;) i like to think of it this way:-

Centre diff allows power shift between front and rear wheels as a pair. front and rear diff should be used to control side to side power on them said wheels....

I.e if when cornering left, ONLY the front left wheel balloons then you prolly want to stiffen ONLY the front diff. If however both front wheels balloon then you want to first stiffen the centre diff. This is only a rule of thumb theres lots of room for scope but this will help you BALANCE the power to your liking....

Shocks again its all trial and error. Too stiff at the back and you get wheelies and power sliding. Too soft and you get chassis slap and unstable driving. i went for 45fr and 40r and find it too slow with the stock pistons... i need to fine tune when i get some spare time but mine tends to pack too easily on fast bumpy stuff. Loves the big jumps though. Its all about finding the happy medium. I'll prolly drill some holes bigger in the pistons and stick with the oil i have. Would just like it to return a little quicker.

I run my truck stock for a gallon just to let it settle down and bed in. Get used to what its doing and try and look carefully and decide if the shocks are too loose and return to quickly and keep an eye on what tires are ballooning and when. Is it when on full power and the back sits down you get balloning on both the fronts etc etc. Im no expert but i have run trucks previosuly for long time and kinda know what i want from my truggy and how i want it to handle. I also tend to only bash but i would call it pretty much extreme with big jumps and skate parks. I also use a tight tarmac track locally as well as a bmx dirtjump area... therefore i need a good reliable ALLROUNDER setup.

Remeber you can always mix oils to thicken and thin them down so buy maybe 3 diff like 3/20/7 obviously you cant mix below 3000wt but you can easily mix 7 with 20 and get near 10k wt not a problem.... same with the shocks 30 70 and 40. you can make plenty of combos from them and i havent seen many run less than 30wt anyways.