tfarmer96

After an experiment with an alternate method of covering balsa I have decided to apply this in real life. This is a 2 part product that is used for covering foam im going to call it gluep stick. I found you can cover a large section of balsa with very little of the product if you thin it down. I believe 1 thin coat of this stuff is enough to do the job. This method eliminates the need for glass cloth. You just put the product down and its ready for prep for paint.

I am going to first apply this to the tail feather of a spitfire MK IX then to my Topflite p47 ARC.

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Been following this on other thread too, keep going, interested.

I am recovering a H9 P47 this winter and am/was going to redo it the old fashion way of Jap tissue/Dope way.

Be interesting to see this done on your 47.

HURRAY UP...................

Buckmeister

I'd like to see it. Thanks for all the effort to share it!

Gutaaaooo

Subscribed

luckyb

The only thing I am curious about is if it adds any strength like cloth does. I purchased a T F P 47 used and it was done in a similar fashion. However, it was prone to hangar rash and the occasional crush of surfaces when holding it to start and run up, much more than my glassed planes........Doug

slowglowflyer

Very interesting. SUBSCRIBED!

tfarmer96

I dont have a solid answere to this. What product was used on your 47 and how was it applied?

This is why i am doing this. I want to know for myself how this stuff holds up. I have nothing to lose and much knowledge to gain.

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

well its obviously tougher then monokote any very few seem to complain about that.
the styrospray 1000 is also made for outdoor use, so I would assume it would hold
up peachy keen. I never worked with LSII so can't comment on that. but judging from
tfarmer's other thread its the same stuff.

prgonzalez

Subscribed

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Been watching the other thread too. I have some trainers I'm fixing up for the club and one of them has a few spots with fuel soaked wood. I've got it as clean as I can. I wonder how it would do over that?
This could be revolutionary. Its looks really easy to use. My guess is that repairs wouldnt be that bad. It looks like it feathers nicely and with a just a little sanding.
Edwin

warbirdmustang

My Feedback: (21)

Subscribed as well!

tfarmer96

got the bottom side of the spitfire tail done. Please see photos. The first one is before the second one is after. Very Very thin coats.

raptureboy

Farmer,I was wondering how much working time you think you had with this product. Another person I know used the LS product on a foam plane and experienced problems with it setting up too early causing problems with getting it smooth.He said that he threw it away and went back to glassing, using this method to glass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rcKyCMDBJE Great job by the way of testing all the angles,perhaps this product is improved over previous versions,looking forward to this reveiw now.

tfarmer96

I you have about 30 minutes as i can tell. thin it down and it makes all the difference in the world. 1/3 1/3 1/3 man its like water i think it could be sprayed like that. putting it on with a roler seems to help a bunch aswell. I will be able to do the top later tonight.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I think this may be just the thing for my T-34C with all the scale corragations on the flight surfaces. I was dreading trying to them with glass cloth and epoxy.

rcyogi

Ok here is some pictures of the P40 after primer...... I did sand it with 400 grid before thethe primer. After 72 hours it getting a bit harder...it does lok really good.

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

where are the pics?

tfarmer96

Got home from the meeting going to do the top of the stab. Im happy with the way this seems to have worked out. In my sanding test on this stuff it seems to sand better as each day passes. So im going to wait a minimum of 7 days before sanding.

rcyogi

Having problems posting pictures.....working on it.

tfarmer96

It takes longer to measure it out then it dose to put it on. Man this is look to be a great solution so far.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

Is this LS II or the "other" product that's suspected to actually be LS II?

tfarmer96

Before i answer this question i want to say there is nothing wrong with LS its a fine product.

I happen to be using the Styro Spray 1000. I like to call it gluep stick...you have to be at least 35 to remember what that name was from.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

So the SS 1000 goes on clear? Also did I read your thinning it? Can I ask what your thinning it with?

tfarmer96

The product color is white, but after I thinned it down with denatured alcohol it covers with a very thin layer that is opaque. I just need it to hold paint. I did some test and at the rate I am thinning it as I remember it works out to be about 7 g per square foot before primer and paint. I guess in the photos it does look clear. If you look close on the blue tape in the set of photo in post 11 you can see the color better.

tfarmer96

Ya no kidding great detail but i can see where that might be a pain.