bob418

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Ihave just received (for Christmas) a Seagull T-6A Texan. Iwill be putting a Eflite Power 90 Brushless Outrunner Motor 325Kv, Phoenix ICE75 Brushless ESCand will be using (2) 4cell 5000 mah Lipos in series and will be starting out with a 16x10e prop.

Iwould like to know if anyone has built this plane in the pass and give me any suggestions or ideas with the build. Iam open to any and all suggestions.

Iwill be posting pictures as Ibuild as Iknow everyone like pictures.

Looking forward to your input!!

Thanks all (and thanks to Santa for the great present!!)

Bob

deuce77

Bob,
Yesterday I was in the local hobby shop and saw this ARF. My son flew this plane for three years as a USAF IP at Laughlin AFB until he switched to the F-15 three years ago. Obviously, the credit card came out even though there is no way I needed another airplane. I am leaning toward electric power also since I have not flown glo in years. I do have a new Evolution 26 available. I saw one review with a Eflight power 60 and a 6S pack which came in at 11 lbs which seems enough weight for a plane with only 647 sq in wing area and it reportedly flew well except for a tendency to tip stall at slow speeds. I would be very interested in how your build turns out. The pics are from the 2006 Hillsboro Air Show which my son flew a Texan II along with another IP from Laughlin.
Jim

bob418

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bob418

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Picture of Retracts

bob418

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Motor mount and fuselage pictures

Let me know if you want other picures

deuce77

Bob,
Thanks for the input. I read that the wheel wells were difficult to install well, yours actually look quite nice. Note that the real spinner is silver, not red, and that the color of the flight suits and helmets are wrong...an easy fix. Of course this is for the Laughlin training squadron (85th Flying Training Squadron). The pilot figures are also fairly heavy but you can eliminate the one in back to save weight. I found by carefully placing my fingernails under the front of the hatch that it popped off with just about the right amount of force although this may be a variable depending on how the magnets were installed. I will attach a few more pics of the real plane FYI.
Jim

bob418

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Great Pictures!!

I will weigh out the plane before I put in the pilots

I still need to figure out the decal bleed through, but he plane is coming along nicely

bob418

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AllI have 2 questions for my build in regards to the electronicsI am running a 8 cell system with 5000 maH and a Eflite Power 90 and a Castle ICE 75 ESC

Here are my questions

I am running 8 cells and using a Castle ICE 75 ESC -  according to the Horizon website, it implies that I do not need a separate battery for Servos and Receiver, (since the ICE 75 has a BEC built in) but if I read the info that comes with the Castle ECS it clearly states not to use the BEC if you are using > than 3 cells (LIPO).   So it appears I should run a separate battery pack for the controls – do you agree and I would think that is a best practice??  Your thoughts plese remember this plane has servo (mechanical) retracts

2nd question – when hooking up my Ailerons is there  a reason I can’t use a Y connector?  Or should I run both to thier own channel?  This is not a 3D plane and would think I would be fine with a Y connector?  Again your thoughts?

deuce77

Bob,

Last night I finally got my T-6 out of the box and began working on the retracts, so I am way behind you.

I have spoken with the guys at Castle Creations previously about using their BEC on smaller airplanes (in this case 4 digital servos) and they said not to do it. I added a separate 10 amp BEC to run the Rx/servos. Their BEC (in this case) was rated at 3 amps. Digital servos suck up more juice and even if you are running analog servos you still have the retracts to deal with, and the more cells you run the harder it is for the BEC to supply the 6.0v output for the Rx. I would call or email them and ask them what you can get away with on your set-up... let me know too. I think I may just suck up the extra weight and use a separate Rx battery pack...I have a 1100 mah A123 laying around. I also have a 10 amp BEC so...? I guess it will depend on the final weight.

I think I am going to go with the Eflight Power 90 also, but try to run it on 6 cells to save weight.

I do not think using a Y harness for your ailerons is a problem, but why do you want to do that? If you plug them in individually then you can program flaperons in your radio and have the option to dial in a slight amout of up aileron (spoiler) to reduce the tendency to tip stall on approach. You also can program in differential ailerons if needed.

What servos and radio are you running on this?

Jim

bob418

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Duuce

Good point on the Y harness, I will just go with pluggin it into my RX and program as needed ( I am running a Spektrum DX6i and with run a Spektrum 6 or 7 channel RX)

I was thnk of putting in a 6 v 2000 maH battery and voltage regulator to run the reciever/ servos and retracts.  I knd of like this idea because if I have any issues with my LIPOs and I lose power to my motor, I still have power to my flight surfaces, I may dead stick a landing, but at least it will come down in one piece


I have sent a note to both Castle and Horizon -  Horizon says it "should work" and I am waiting to hear back from Castle.

This is frustrating - since I am ne to the build game, I would expect Horizon to recommend a system that they stand behind!

I am sick with a bad cold, so not much has been done, but I will post a new picture!

Thanks for the input

bob418

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Anew picture, need to install electronics, but a few more hours should do it!

deuce77

Plane looks good. You did not say what servos you were using for the retracts and control surfaces. I am still shopping for these. Any idea of the all-up weight with batteries yet? The weather here will probably not be good to fly for several months so I have some time except my son comes home from England where he has been stationed until now and I wanted to have the thing together to show him. I have some work to do.
Jim

bob418

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Here are the servos Iwill be using

(4) JRPS821 for rudder, elevator and 2 for the ailerons

(1) JRPS791 Main gear retract servo

(1) JSP20080 Nose gear retract servo

Ijust weighed my plane in 3 pieces (Wings, Fuselage (with motor and ESC) and batteries and servos (in a bag)and it came out to about 10.6 lbs (Remember Ihave 8cell 5000 maHbatteries). but this does not inclued a seperate RXbattery pack, but Ithink it will come out ot aout 150 watts per pound or somewhere close, which should give me plenty of power based on rule of thumb!

Tell your son Isay hi and ask him if he has any flying tips

Bob

bob418

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The latest almost OOPS!

I followed the instructions and cut the aileron linkage to 90 mm (or what ever it says in the instructions) and the length was about 12-14 mm too long!!!  

I was very lucky that it was too long and not too short.  My suggestion is to NOT cut the rod until you get the servos and horn installed and then measure and cut.  This may be a best practice for experienced builders, but as I am not one of those   this is a lesson learned.

I did get the ailerons servos all hooked and tested along with the Main Gear Retracts installed.  Will need to do the finally adjustments, but everything is working - SO FAR

I still have not heard anything back from Castle on the conflicting BEC use with 8cell Lipos.  Hopefully I will hear something before Spring!!

deuce77

I have built quite a few ARFS, mostly IMAC planes, and you are correct: you have to measure and fit because sometimes the translations are not correct. I also sent an email off to Castle Creations and we will see if the responses jive. BTW, you are aware the JR 791 retract servo is for 4.8 volts only? They very specifically say not to use with a 6.0 volt power supply. That really complicate set-up if you want to run your flight servos at 6.0 volts. An alternative is the Hitec HS-75BB retract servo which will run on 6.0 volts. It is a "bang-bang" servo (not proportional...just rotates 180 degrees back and forth) and not quite as strong as the JR but I think that is what I will use for the retracts. It is also fairly light at 1,23 oz. I am new to retracts, only had one before and it was a giant scale P-40 built from a Nick Ziroli kit and had pneumatic retracts. With this Texan approaching 11 lbs I hope these non-oleo strutted retracts hold up. The field where I fly is grass.
Jim

bob418

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I did see that about the 4.8 volts -  I am planning on running on 4.8 to start with - I have to assume the servos have plenty of touque to handle this warbird.  Also if the the Caslte BEC works (it is factory set at 5 volts)  so I should be all set.   If I see issues with the touque I will have to swtich out the retract and go to 6 volts.

Again - I am hoping Horizon Hobby is correct with their setup.  So far I am not impressed with their recommendations - another lesson learned for the new guy.

Still have not heard back from Castle (nor have they contacted Horizon Hobby on my question)

deuce77

I would guess 72 oz in of torque would be plenty so your set-up should be just fine. I have some of those JR servos, they are certainly priced right and I may have to consider using them. I was planning to use Hitec HS 7775MG for flight and HS 75 BB for the retracts. These I would run at 6.6 volts on an unregulated A123. Think I will wait until Castle Creations responds to our inquiries and then decide...I may not need the Rx battery. I found some very nice T-6 panels online which look much better than the generic (IMAC) panels they stuck on the instrument panels.
Jim

Kostas1

That's so nice !

bob418

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send me the link to the panels!!!

deuce77

http://www.t6driver.com/pictures1_cockpit.html

Here are some pics which can be resized and printed for a T-6 panel.
Jim

bob418

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Hey  just found this website that talks about using the Castle ICE 75 as a BEC  http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1178282 

Here is a clip:

This feature converts the voltage from the battery pack to the proper voltage to operate the receiver and servos. In the previous Phoenix series of controllers there were limitations on the BEC such that it could not be used with more than three LiPo cells. Per the Instructions the Phoenix Ice's BEC can be used with up to an 8-cell LiPo battery pack and it will supply up to 5 amps peak power to the receiver and servos. In my test plane I used a four cell LiPo battery pack, and it powered my receiver and four digital servos.



If I decide to use a separate battery pack to power my receiver and servos I will need to disconnect the red wire from the Phoenix Ice's three wire receiver connector.

Sounds like the info is confusing, but shoould be good to run the BEC in the ESC at 5 volts and get 5 amps!

deuce77

That is promising. I have used a separate BEC on electrics before, you do have to pull out the positive lead from the lead which plugs into your Rx. If you just pull it out (and do not cut the wire) then you have the option of reconnecting in the future if you like. I am wondering if 5 amp (peak) is enough when the retracts are humming. Might be smart to hook up an amp-meter (like the H-9 one) and see how much the servos draw while they are retracting before you try it in the air. Maybe CC will answer that question.
Jim

deuce77

Okay, I went shopping today. I ended up with the CC Phoenix ICE 100 (with the heat sink), a CC BEC PRO (20 amp max), and four Savox SC-1258TG servos. I ordered the Eflight Power 90, an aluminum spinner, and two Hitec HS 75 BB retract servos. Now, I am no expert on these mid-sized electrics so some of this is overkill, but I figure if this project does not work out well I can use this stuff on a small electric IMAC style plane. I am not too familiar with the Savox servos but the helicopter guys use them a lot and they take a much more serious beating in a heli than they will in this plane so they should be just fine. I also looked at a set of Eflight electric retracts for 120 sized planes which looked like they would bolt right in. No servos to contend with as they have a built in worm gear/motor to crank them up and down and will operate at any likely voltage we would use. Check them out: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EFLG430 Read the reviews if you are interested. Some + some -. It appears they require higher voltage to work properly.

Jim

bob418

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Thanks for the update, I would be interested to see how the eflite retracts would work

I just got all my servos and retracts in and did some testing (I had to round off the nose gear retract where they did a modification to the retracts (you can see where they trimmed the aluminum to allow the gear to retract if the wheel is not perfectly straight (no servo input)  I will take a picture and it will make sense to you.  just a quick hit with the dermal tool and problem solved.    I am happy I found the binding on the bench and not it in the air!!

I also hooked up my 8 cell lipo to my Castle ICE 75 and put my WATTs Up meter and watched the amps and it was very low (about .6 amps) while I used some servos and the nose gear.    I will do some testing once I get everything hooked up.

Everything is in, no I need to make the final adjustments and make sure everything is tight and lock tighted !!! 

I will post some more pictures

BTW my wife says I need to join AA        AA= Airplanes Anonymous!!

deuce77

The Eflight Retracts got mixed reviews. They are also about $180.00 so the stock set-up with 2 servos is definitely cheaper. And the weight is a draw. I will probably stick with the included retracts and see how they work out. It would not be a big problem to switch if they are a problem. I will be a little slower than you getting this in the air as I already have another build going on which I would like to complete before Spring. Also, I am waiting on the motor and retract servos. When I get some significant progress done I will post a few pics also. AA! Yes, I know that feeling.
Jim