Robostrut bushings tight fit - help please
#1

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I have fitted Robart 615 retracts to my CMPro 1.20 Corsair, plus 650 Robostruts. All good, except that the supplied bushings are an exceedingly tight fit into the barrel of the Robostrut. Is this normal? I am afraid that if I attempt to hammer the bushing down that it will jam partway!!! Also, because of the design of the strut, it is not possible to place any significant back pressure without dismantling the strut?
Reading other postings in this forum, it seems that some people are able to easily slide the bushing into place with JBWeld then holding it tight?
Can somebody please help me out of this dilemma?
Thanks,
Bill
Reading other postings in this forum, it seems that some people are able to easily slide the bushing into place with JBWeld then holding it tight?
Can somebody please help me out of this dilemma?
Thanks,
Bill
#2

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Bill,
Ihad the same problem, and I was reluctant to try forcing them in with a hammer. Here's what I did.
I put a bolt about 2' long and roughly the same diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing. Next, I put a nut on the bolt, and tightened it up to the bushing. Then, I put the bolt into the chuck of my drill press (even a hand drill will work). Using medium emery cloth, I then took off just enough of the bushing's "teeth" to still fit snugly into the strut tube. Worked great.
It would have been a lot easier if I'd had a metal lathe.
Mike
Ihad the same problem, and I was reluctant to try forcing them in with a hammer. Here's what I did.
I put a bolt about 2' long and roughly the same diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing. Next, I put a nut on the bolt, and tightened it up to the bushing. Then, I put the bolt into the chuck of my drill press (even a hand drill will work). Using medium emery cloth, I then took off just enough of the bushing's "teeth" to still fit snugly into the strut tube. Worked great.
It would have been a lot easier if I'd had a metal lathe.
Mike
#3

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try to ease the edge of the tube with some sand paper if there is a small lip of metal on the tube it makes it difficult to get the bushings to go into the tube.
also when you hammer the bushing into the tube the 650's disassemble by just removing the clips that hold the pins in place then after coating the adapter with JB Weld, when you tap the piece in, make sure you use some wood to protect the opposite end from getting damaged it just takes a couple of solid taps with the hammer to get them seated into the tube.
then after the JB cures just reassemble them if you need to cut the tubes down allot there is a little more to getting the longer struts to work with a softer feel, like cutting the springs down and the piston section attached to the axle its all pretty basic though
also when you hammer the bushing into the tube the 650's disassemble by just removing the clips that hold the pins in place then after coating the adapter with JB Weld, when you tap the piece in, make sure you use some wood to protect the opposite end from getting damaged it just takes a couple of solid taps with the hammer to get them seated into the tube.
then after the JB cures just reassemble them if you need to cut the tubes down allot there is a little more to getting the longer struts to work with a softer feel, like cutting the springs down and the piston section attached to the axle its all pretty basic though
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Thanks mirwin and bigtim.
Problem solved using mirwin's simple solution; JBWeld is now in place.
Kind regards,
Bill
Problem solved using mirwin's simple solution; JBWeld is now in place.
Kind regards,
Bill