Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: china,
ME
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
I'm not sure how to go about acheiving the correct angle on the leading edge of the zero as called for on the plans. I've done (or tried to do) one and am not satisified with the end product. The plans call for a relief angle cut on the upper and lower inside corner of the L/E stock. Can someone enlighten me with the proceedure and tools they used to achieve the called for angle? It's about 20 degrees.
Or maybe someone has a better mouse trap than what the plans call for?
Or maybe someone has a better mouse trap than what the plans call for?
#3
My Feedback: (81)
RE: Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
I sounds like you are referring to the "bird beak" sport scale leading edge on the elevator, aileron, rudder....like this (if you will) ">"
I typically draw a center line on the leading edge face. Then, on the top and bottom of the leading edge, I draw a line parallel to the face of the leading edge stock, about 3/8 inch back from the front face of the leading edge stock. I then rough trim with a hobby knife, planer, etc. then use 40 grit sandpaper on a block to sand just to the lines.
For more of (sharper) angle, just draw the line, on the top and bottom, further back from the face of the leading edge stock.
NOTE: Be sure to drill/cut for hinges before sanding....make life much easier.
Another great, and more scale method, is to (after cutting for hinges) glue 1/4 inch traingle stock to the top and bottom of the stab, flush with the top and bottom of the stab skin. Then simply round off the elevator leading edge. This is an easy to make gap seal hinge line that addresses flutter issues and just looks better.
Jeff
I typically draw a center line on the leading edge face. Then, on the top and bottom of the leading edge, I draw a line parallel to the face of the leading edge stock, about 3/8 inch back from the front face of the leading edge stock. I then rough trim with a hobby knife, planer, etc. then use 40 grit sandpaper on a block to sand just to the lines.
For more of (sharper) angle, just draw the line, on the top and bottom, further back from the face of the leading edge stock.
NOTE: Be sure to drill/cut for hinges before sanding....make life much easier.
Another great, and more scale method, is to (after cutting for hinges) glue 1/4 inch traingle stock to the top and bottom of the stab, flush with the top and bottom of the stab skin. Then simply round off the elevator leading edge. This is an easy to make gap seal hinge line that addresses flutter issues and just looks better.
Jeff
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: china,
ME
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
ORIGINAL: Scotsman
Any chance you can show a sketch or a snapshot of the plans to help understand what needs to be made?
Any chance you can show a sketch or a snapshot of the plans to help understand what needs to be made?
#6
My Feedback: (81)
RE: Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
I'm confused, your title says leading edge, but your last post speaks of trailing edge.
For trailing edge, I add the one of the sheeting and run it 3/8 past the ribs. I then come back and sand that sheet to the same angle as the ribs. After sanding, clean it up to be as stright along the trailing edge as possible. Next, glue the other side sheeting on and trim flush along the trailing edge, with the first sheet, and you will be good. You can come back and sand a little sharper angle on it, but not necessary.
hope this helps.
Jeff
For trailing edge, I add the one of the sheeting and run it 3/8 past the ribs. I then come back and sand that sheet to the same angle as the ribs. After sanding, clean it up to be as stright along the trailing edge as possible. Next, glue the other side sheeting on and trim flush along the trailing edge, with the first sheet, and you will be good. You can come back and sand a little sharper angle on it, but not necessary.
hope this helps.
Jeff