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Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Old 03-02-2011, 08:19 AM
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warbird_1
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Default Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

topic changed to build. story is i bought this from a third party . the original builder passed away from cancer and i picked it up " like i said" third hand so i'm redoing somethings that were done and continuing on with the build .



what you looking at is a rough in install . nothing has been glassed in or finished. .. we all know that two objects can not occupy the same space . that being said i wish i had an answer to why byron would engineer such an obvious flaw. i'm referring to the elevator push rod setup. both are identical
in setup so it's only a matter of time that the two rods would intersect each other at some point. i modified the original design to help clean up the push rod mess they had. i opted to move the servos back some to offer a better hook up location rather than run the whole mess down the whole fuse.
included in the picks is a crude pic of how byron wanted it built. kind of primitive by todays standards . i was able to offset the elevator linkage at the servo arms but the rods still touch each other. any ideas on how i can keep these two rods from vibrating against each other? i thought about using heat shrink tubing to cushion the vibration and reduce the rattling noise. anyone else ever build one of these? thanks ,WB_1 http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/i...umentation.htm this will take to to the .PDF file for a better look the setup.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:26 AM
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JeffH
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Consider that an improvement over some of the other Byron warbirds. I know that the first Hellcats had NYROD!?!?!?! included to use on the elevators. Of course they also used 4 feet of nyrod on the F-16 for the stabs and rudder and wondered why they fluttered!!
Old 03-02-2011, 08:30 AM
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warbird_1
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

jeff , i did away with the nyrod setup went to a pull-pull for the rudder and linked the rudder to the tail-wheel via linkage. . if you look at the side view it looks like only one push rod is being used for the elevator. they have to cross each other.
Old 03-02-2011, 08:46 AM
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JeffH
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Oh I know all about the At-6s. My dad has one with 600ish flights on it. I think he raised one servo to alleviate the pushrod collision. He also ditched the nyrod for a normal pull-pull setup.
Byron's also use to specify 2-56 pushrods for ailerons. Times sure have changed. For the most part, they had some great flying warbirds.(minus the P-40).
Old 03-02-2011, 08:59 AM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

i heard the p-40's were a handful. because i already cut the holes "per byron's fuse marks" for the rod exit's , i can't raise the servo without the rods bending . i had just enough play in the exit's to allow me to stagger the ball links on the servo arms. i like my rods to have a straight run with bending around something or binding.
Old 03-02-2011, 09:00 AM
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spaceworm
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

If you were to mount the rod wires on the side of the rods instead of on the axis and then position the rods with the offsets opposite each other they should clear each other and alow a fence to be installed to keep them from vibrating independently and with each other. Like the old school use of square or round balsa or dowel. JMHT. Good luck. If your tire of dealing with Byon's T-6 build, please let me know. Having flown the full size one, I would be glad to take over yours.

Sincerely, Richard
Old 03-02-2011, 09:55 AM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild


ORIGINAL: spaceworm

If you were to mount the rod wires on the side of the rods instead of on the axis and then position the rods with the offsets opposite each other they should clear each other and alow a fence to be installed to keep them from vibrating independently and with each other. Like the old school use of square or round balsa or dowel. JMHT. Good luck. If your tire of dealing with Byon's T-6 build, please let me know. Having flown the full size one, I would be glad to take over yours.

Sincerely, Richard
i'm open to offers lol
Old 03-02-2011, 09:58 AM
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warbird_1
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

i understand you point and it's a good one , one i too thought of . however the rods go into the center and i don't want to change them. they are nice carbon-fiber rods
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:02 AM
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spaceworm
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Make me an offer I can't refuse! NLOL. OK, how about adding standoofs to the one servo so that it provides offset to the crossing. They should still exit the fuse at close to the same point, since the servos are so far away. BTW, i have the AQT-6 official manual if you would like copies of selected pages. Good luck.

sincerely, Richard

I attached a scan of the manual cover, Later!
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:03 AM
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spaceworm
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Sorry, that was the AT-6 Flight HDBK, not the AQT-6

Vbr, Richard
Old 03-02-2011, 11:26 AM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

here's me and my midwest at-6. she's old and not bold ,but she flys better than anything I've had . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1KIb...eature=feedwll
Old 03-02-2011, 12:48 PM
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800mZero
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

not for nothing but will you gain anything if you mounted a servo upside down to the underside of the tray?
Old 03-02-2011, 12:52 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Your ball link locations netted about the same separation distance as a block under one servo with less angular change at the exit point. One suggestion i have it to make sure you have some sort of pushrod supports about half way down the fuse. Those pushrods will vibrate like crazy with a single cylinder engine. They will actually hit each other if the right resonance is achieved.
Old 03-02-2011, 01:12 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

the problem is the rod exit's on the fuse sides. if i could move them i would be fine, but i can't. i most likely will have to live with what i have. the CF rods do touch each other but because of the exit's i can't move the rods anymore . if i do it will cause the rods to bend at the exits
Old 03-02-2011, 01:14 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

i was going to make a elevator joiner and use one servo , but changed my mind. should have done it.
Old 03-02-2011, 01:33 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

you till could just plug up the hole!
Old 03-02-2011, 01:34 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild


ORIGINAL: warbird_1

the problem is the rod exit's on the fuse sides. if i could move them i would be fine, but i can't. i most likely will have to live with what i have. the CF rods do touch each other but because of the exit's i can't move the rods anymore . if i do it will cause the rods to bend at the exits
cover over the back-side of the hole with some G-10 sheet, then cut a piece(s) of G-10 slightly smaller to fit in the hole, then with a little body filler you will never know they are there.
Old 03-02-2011, 05:41 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Here is your solution pictured: This is my Byron T-28, but the plans recommended the same push rod set up. I hate long push rods. Disaster waiting to happen. Took a little work, but well worth the effort. Rudder is on standard pull-pull.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:43 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

And the finished product: Not only is this a much better mechanical set up, there are no ugly push rods coming out of the fuselage sides. I hate that.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:48 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Invertmast has a good suggestion, but you could just as easily glass over the holes from the inside and then do the same body filler to smooth out the finish. Depends on which materials you have on hand.
Old 03-02-2011, 07:16 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Warbird,

would it work if you flipped the elevator pushrods and cranks to be inboard of the servos. And then the pushrod goes to the elevator on the same side rather than crossing over to the opposite side? I am guessing since I cant tell the angle of the fuselage tapering to the tail.
Old 03-02-2011, 07:56 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Fill the holes and stagger the servos. Leave some room for play (no pun), as those rods will slap. Ditto On the supports.
Old 03-02-2011, 08:36 PM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Nice finish on the rudder T/E, lol.
Old 03-03-2011, 03:53 AM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

colmo-RCU
i bought it built
Old 03-03-2011, 04:25 AM
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Default RE: Byron AT-6 Build /Rebuild

Cut the section out of the CF pushrod that is in the interferance section. Take another CF rod and laminate it on top of the cutout and extend it 3-4 inches on each original section and glass it to the old original two pieces, thus making a notched pushrod..

Rick

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