njmheli

Hi Chris.

Thank you for your comments.............much appreciated.

OK......for the rear tail-wheel doors,I'm sure there is a way to "mechanically"get these to operate from the "chassis" of the Robart T/W,via a link made up of threaded rod and ball joints.....well that was my first thought and will try this out first.

Second idea is to use two "micro" servos in the same way as the main inner doors.......linking then to the door sequencer............

Pylon release........the std pylons appear to be large enough accomodate a "micro-servo" and linkage to a release mechanism ( see photo's below ).

Aerotech Scale Parts will supply these for $4 each........check out the site in the US..........Gary also will supply scale bombs,drop tank and other goodies aswell !!! ( I have all these "other bits" to use on my build as I progress with it ).........the "items" are a plastic cast..........his scale pylons with bomb steadies look great ( but these pylons will not fit the H9 wing profile )....have not tried to see if a bit of "re-work" may doo the trick as yet.

Gary uses these releases in his pylon and also for the "belly tank"......all opereated by a "micro-servo" and bowden cable set-up.........CHECK OUT " AEROTECH MODELS inc "

Keep intouch with your ideas Chris

On the Biela props..........I have a 18 x 10 "Corsair" 4BL to try aswell.........!!!

Thanks again...........

Cheers................Nick (UK).

njmheli

HI Cris.

This is Gary's instruction sheet for his pylon release........( sorry if it is sideways......!!! )

Cheers.................NICK (UK).

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Thought that I would give the pylon idea a go........Having bought the scale items from Gary at Aerotech Models,decided to use the standard kit pylons with a combination of some parts from Aerotech.
The pylon is plenty big enough to fit a "micro-servo" into........so I started to cut away.

I chose to cut out just aft of the fwd pylon former,just enough to get the servo in and leave enough room for "fingers" to do some work in there !!!( see photo ).....but left a thin "edge" of ply still attached to the plastic sides of the pylon.The servo was mounted using a couple of bits of spruce as you can see in the photo's.
I did some mod's to some of the parts from Gary and also cut away the bottom of the pylon to fit the "resin" cast bits in...............I deceided to use a thin brass tube as opposed to a "plastic" push/pull tube as shown in Gary's instructions,also this brass tube can be glued and bent into the correct shape needed to get a good "cable-run" in the pylon........
The wire that I use to connect the servo to the release mechanism is from a Fishing Supply Shop........"Trace-wire" ( Stainless steel,30lb breaking strain and covered in plastic....more than up to the job !!! )..I also use this in my "pull-pull set ups ".........
The choice of servo was to use the Spektrum DSP60.......will work on 4.8 to 6Volts easy,very small and has plenty of torgue and digital....not that you need it to pull the release !!! This servo is also programable via the "box" from Spektrum........so very easy to set up the servo "end points" / throw and direction..........

Please to report that all works perfectly............Give it a go !!!

The 5 photos below show the basic cuts etc and items.

I guess in all it took about 5rs to complete the pylon and bomb assy as you see in the next posts....

Cheers................Nick (UK).

njmheli

These are the finished photos..........Oh,if you havn't found out already,the pylons are "handed" LH / RH. On the bomb "steadies",I used some neoprine rubber on the ends of the screws........using John's tip with the canopy glue to stop the coming out.

Cheers................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Forgot to say............The belly tank can be done using the same release set up ( so will probably do that at some stage or may just leave that fixed,depends on how many spare channels I will be left with )..........If you are going to drop the bombs,they will need to be" balanced and weighted" as necessary as the ones that I have are very "tail-heavy"........not a good idea when letting go !!!

Hope the builds are going well ??............

Cheers...........Nick (UK).

Dangaras

For those in the US, have a look at firepowerc. I have a couple of the corsair pylons and they work great.

Product page http://firepowerrc.com/Products.htm

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Are those pylons from Gary going to fit this plane? I have the same ones on a 80" Micko jug, and they just fit the wing with little room to spare.

Casey

njmheli

Hi Casey.

I have used the pylons that came with the H9 P-47 ( I stated earlier in my other posts,that Gary's plyons DO NOT MATCH the H9 P-47 wing profile as standard...may be able to use the ones from Gary if a certain amount of re-work is done ? ) + it could be quite a challenge to get the mountings correct for the H9 P-47 wing fixings to line up for his pylons.

I have used modified items of Gary's scale pieces on the H9 std pylons.............I have just added the "rivet" and "panel lines" + weathering to the std pylons.

Cheers...............Nick (UK).

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Ah sorry I missed that. Yours look very nice! I'm not sure you could modify Gary's set to fit....they are works of art, but too big for this application I think. Firepower seems to have some nice offerings as well.

Casey

njmheli

Hi Casey.

Firepower do look good................but I think only available at 60 size ??? probably look too small on the "H9 30cc Jug"..........

Cheers............Nick (UK).

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Ah, yes....that wouldn't do either. I thought he was doing 1/7th and 1/6th scale stuff?

Casey

Sekhet

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Nick,

Your hard points are looking good, you definitely have enough room for all of the kit to be installed.

I’ve been giving the tail wheel doors some more thought and agree with you on the threaded rod and ball joint solution. I’m looking at using the same type of hinges used on the inner doors of the mains. Then I’ll try playing around with attachment points on the doors and tail gear till I get the geometry correct.

Using a mini servo could be done but there isn’t a whole lot of room to mount the servo. mmm.... wait a minute… You could possibly mount the servo somewhere forward of the tail wheel and use a flexible push rod arrangement, say golden rod or something similar, to actuate the doors.

Just brainstorming here, I’m off to the drafting table!

njmheli

Hi Chris.

Pylons did "fit-out" ok,I'm pleased with how it turned out !!!

Working on the fuzz "fit-out" now,so will be busy starting at the "back-end"..........should have the T/W installed by end of play tomorrow and will be working on that geometry solution .....keep us up to date if you get a "working"fix !!!!

Likewise I will put the results up............if I get one !!!!

Think I will be using the "Robart" 310 Hinge Points on all the control surfaces .......... not a great fan of the mylar hinge.......

Cheers.................Nick (UK).

Doug Andre

John,

 Most of us have received our electric retracts and cockpit kits.   Could Bill give us any clue as when to expect our EP conversion kits?

Regards,

Doug

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Gave the tail weel doors a go !!!.......guess it took a good 10 hours or so from start to finish ( including alot of thinking !!! ).
I was pretty sure that a "mechanical" linkage could be worked out........looking at the Full-Size way of doing it I thought I would give this a try.

Ok,just find the centre of the door ( I had to carefully heat my door,so as to "mould" it a little better........TAKE CARE here !!! ),cut into two pieces ( obvious then !!! ).....next was to cut out the hinge places on the fuzz ( Full-size uses what I call "piano hinges",so plenty of options here)........make sure you make them to come apart ie: make up new "L" pins if you don't use the type that has them as standard.

Position the two halves with the cut-outs on the fuzz and mount the hinge to line up with the cut outs...........I then started to build up the doors with what I thuoght looked ok.The doors also needed a little more "heat moulding",just to try to get them with all the stiffness now built in to sit better ( with the hinge pins made to be removed,this "moulding" can be done again as required,to keep the fit best possible.

The hardest part was to get rid of all the movement produced by the "chassis" going up and down,plus to get the door clearance from the wheel as it closes.......I'm using elecrtic retracts of my own modding,so I guess with the Robart electric retracts,you should be able to "mechanically" stop the tail wheel from a deep retract,by altering the "stop" (bottom of the former)by adding a higher piece of plywood ( that's what I did ).
Next thing was to study the full-size........so I made some swivel joints up...........these have an effect to loose some of the motion in the cycle..........it's all about lost-motion ( well on the model set up ),trying to get the travel correct,with the throws and wheel clearance on the door as it follows the wheel on the open and retract cycle....

The following are some photos of the basic parts I used and made up.......The next slot will show the finished set up........

Cheers.........Nick (UK).

njmheli

These are the final assy photos.........The one thing that I couldn't get correct was the amount that the tail wheel doors open............but hey,my brain was getting fried too much !!!

Cheers..............Nick (K).

njmheli

Hi Guys.

This is the YouTube link for the Tail Wheel Doors operating...............taken with my phone ( sorry for the angles !! )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vru-aPQpHs4

Cheers..............Nick (UK).

Dangaras

Pretty nice work.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Very nice!

Casey

Sekhet

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Nick,

Your tail doors are looking very good!  You did them very nearly the same way that I had drawn it out.  I have yet to work on my doors because while I was researching the doors, I got side tracked trying to come up with a way to install functioning landing lights in the wings so they work just like the full scale.  I have already figured out the navigation and formation lights as well as subdued lighting for the cockpit panel. 

For the landing lights I’ll probably use micro servos, on a separate channel so I can adjust the end points, slaved to the gear channel and a micro switch to turn on the lamps when the light housings are down and locked.

curtusua-RCU

My Feedback: (91)

Hi guys...

Does anyone know the part number for the cockpit kit that John mentioned at the beginning of this thread? I can't seem to find it on Horizon's web page.

Thanks...

Curt

Edit: Whoops! I see it now... under option accessories.

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Trust the builds are going well...?

Just completed the final installation of the TW / Doors........I'm using a "heavy" Dubro TW,so in order to ensure that the tail wheel will always centre-up on the retract sequence up or down,I have added two "soft springs" to the TW steering arm,just hooking them onto the chassis.

As you know as the TW retracts,the pull-pull lines go slack.......so these springs ensure that no matter what the angle the TW is when the retract is operated,it will always centre-up as it retracts........missing the doors ( or the opening if doors are not fitted ).

Just an idea.........

Have tried it out with the TW at max angle when operating the retract............works 100%..........

Photos show the two "soft-springs"...........current on the rudder servo using the soft springs is very low,so no "drain on the system".......

Cheers..............Nick (UK).

kennye

My Feedback: (11)

I'm running a Futaba system and had to play around with the flap linkage but all is well..

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

@ Nick; awesome job on the tail wheel doors. If I buy you a plane ticket over will you do mine?

@ Doug; I am checking and it looks like the first batch of EP parts have sold out. Next stock is expected here in November. We are contacting the manufacturer and seeing if we can expedite their arrival. Reading your post it sounds like you have been waiting for your conversion kit. Has it been on back order?

@ Curt; sounds like you found it. For reference any ways here it is again. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...30cc-HAN448515

DHC6

My Feedback: (6)

Curt, I have a beautiful cockpit from dynamic balsa, I baught it for my top flite p47, but its to big. It's made for the hangar 9 p47. If your interested let me know.

Louis