splais

My Feedback: (25)

inner gear door confusion

in the below picture the geometry seems to be wrong. With the servo arm mounted 90 degrees to the door axis movement, this would seem to put unneeded stress on the door. Does anyone know why it is mounted this way? why can't the servo be mounted 90 degrees the other way so the servo arm and door move in the same plane?

njmheli

Hi Casey.

Not not maidened mine as yet..........two reasons :

1) Weather here in the UK has not been good for some time now even although it's nearly Summer,but it is getting better !!

2) My flying mate has just about finished up his build on his Giant T/F P-47 ( ARF ),so we intend to do our maidens together.........just started his 5cyl ASP up last week for the first time,go it going after the on-board glow was all charged up enough !!! Just needs another few ground runs, c of g check and it should be ready to fly.

Will post any video / phone camera shots of the event as and when we do it !!!

Kind regards.............Nick (UK).

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Sweet!

njmheli

Hi Steve.

Did you get my PM and attached photo......?

If you look at the photo of mine,you will see that I use a "ball-joint" at the servo arm end..........this helps to take out any geometry miss- alignment during the servo's motion,but it has to be a good "snap-fit",so as to stay on !!! ie: can't use any sort of "keeper" that you could or would use on a normal clevis,unless you use a thin bit of "fuse-wire" to wire lock the cap onto the servo arm pivot.

It doesn't look like it will take you too much time / fixing to re-do your inner door servo position.........the way it has been done does not help the motion or the stress of the mechanical linkage !!!

Hope all goes ok for you....

Kind regards..............Nick.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Yes, I saw them and thanks. I looked at those original build pics for about 20 minutes and said - no way. Don'r knoq what the problem was.

I'm starting work on panel lines and rivets. I'm doing mine after a plane in the 56th FG, 61st FS. But I'm conflicted, love the bright yellow stripes on the plane and want to keep them. I'm also wrestling with the decision for and against invasion stripes. Since I am modeling P-47D HV-P, 42-28520 that had an unknown pilot and markings I guess I am free to be creative. I'm actually thinking about leaving the yellow stripes on tail and wings, putting invasion stripes on bottom, and painting rudder red. We'll see.

PS: things are moving along.

Guijs

Is there anyone using a 4 stroke gas engine in this airplane? Which one would have a performance compared to a DLE 55 or DA50?

njmheli

Hi All.

Hope that all your builds are going well........I thought that I would just post this very short video clip of ( Mark 's), my flying buddy's T/F P-47.We are going to do our maidens together once Mark is happy with his radial set up and completed his c of g final check.

This is the second ground run that we have done with the ASP 400........all 5 cylinders now running after a couple of "plug-change outs"........turning a 22" x 10 two blade at the moment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_WejLw2hMU

Regards...........Nick (UK).

splais

My Feedback: (25)

A few mods to the cockpit area and rivets added. I just realized you have to remove cockpit to attach wings, what a pain that is going to be. Below is a pic I put in another thread of my test hand painting invasion stripes. It is turning out to look better and be easier than I thought. I'll post a "how I did it" later on.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I finished the first section of hand painting the invasion stripes and removing the yellow tail stripes, pretty pleased with how it came out. Using Rustoleum flat black and flat white, a farely high quality 1" artists brush. I outlined each individual white strip with 1/4" masking tape and then went back and filled in the black. Oh yes, and my nose art is on the way.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

My conversion of "Hun Hunter" to "Slightly Dangerous" is moving along nicely. Phase one is almost done. I still have to figure out how the door sequencer works, put on a few waterside decals and that will be the end of prep for phase II (panel lines, rivets & weathering). I've already "riveted" the cowl and canopy. As soon as I get all the little misc decals on her, it will be flat clear coating for panel lines.

warbirdfan2

She is really lookin good!!!!! The invasion stripes really dress her up.

tuchadwick59

My Feedback: (31)

Here is a great build Thread we are doing on an electric Yellow P-38 with massive sound system. Also has videos of the benedini system on Corsair and P-40. SonicBoomRC.com is getting ready to launch the new Benedini systems in the US and they are doing it cheap. Less than half the cost of the AeroSoundRC prices.

Guijs

Did anyone know if the DA60 will fit this aircraft?

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I am really at the end of my rope and pissed off. I've had nothing but trouble trying to get this plane flight ready. Right now I am waiting for some nomenclature and to finish up panel lines, riveting and weathering. In the mean time I have been trying to complete flight setup - what a nightmare. I have a new DLE55RA that ran great on the test bench and now I can't get it to run past half throttle when mounted in plane. Got separate threads in both RCU and FG, with no help working. Now, on top of that it looks like I just had the second motor burn out on my Robart electric retracts, and this plane has never been out of the garage yet. Right now I am having serious doubts this plane will ever fly!

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Don't give up, you get it!

Casey

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Well things have come together nicely on my first ARF kit bash after years of just slapping them together. She is basically finished. Still waiting for a couple of replacement nomenclature and a few more rivets before final clear coat; but aside from that she is all setup, balanced and ready to go. Now my only problem is my primary flying partner is a winter visitor who will not be back until September and wants me to wait for the maiden. Still contemplating that one. I could have done even more than I did, but I'm anxious to get into a Laird-Turner LTR-14 ARF with 3W150 and smoke I want to do next. This plane was a learning experience as much as anything and bashing it was much more fun then I anticipated.

The electric robarts are working beautifully after an initial problem and are about 3x the quality of ESM retracts on another plane I have. Right now I have 12oz of lead in the nose and she is slightly nose heavy at 5�. I had to add 2oz in the right aileron servo compartment to get lateral balance. All in all, not bad.

I'll post some additional closeups and comment on the rivet techniques I used in the next post.

warbirdfan2

She sure is sweet lookin....nice job!

splais

My Feedback: (25)

When I started the rivet process I used John's method on the wing bottom for practice it worked very well and came out looking pretty good. And of course, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than buying ready-made rivet strips. That being said, it is obviously labor intensive and does take a bit of practice to get the rivts right on soft, hard, and medium surfaces. The temp is critical also; too hot burn a hole, too cold, just get a dent. You also need to keep the tip clean all the time. Using the hot iron tube method did seem to work on painted plastic (cowl) and covered sheeting equally well. I don't believe this method would work on open covering at all. I did have to be very careful burning rivets into the invasion stripes I painted. The hot tubing want to remove a little dot of paint where the rivet should be if I wasn't very careful.

I had heard about a guy (Chad Veich, email: [email protected] ) making rivets one day away in Phoenix area and decided to give him a try. They worked out very well and saved a huge amount of work. They went on over dull coat, vinyl graphics, and paint just fine. The issue I haven't decided on yet is the fact they don't show up that well on OD green covering and black paint; but I'm thinking real rivets probably don't either.

Wanted to comment on one other thing. I used http://www.callie-graphics.com for all my graphics and she was great. I sent several pictures of different things I wanted try and every time I got my stuff in only a couple of days. All my contact was by email, but she was very responsive and costs where very reasonable, would highly recommend her.

Oh, yeah, and I have decided to add some weathering before the final dull top coat goes on.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Can anyone who has actually flown this plane, tell me where you ended up setting your CG?

gregg f

My Feedback: (20)

3 1/4" forward at the wing tip measured from the aileron corner.

Tuggs

I balanced mine according to the measurement given in the manual and it flew very well.

GLegee

My Feedback: (1)

I have this plane that is new and not completed yet with the robart electric retracts and full cockpit kit for sale, $1100 shipped in the USA.

nioa

Hi all, just taking a break from my build. So far this H9 ARF is one of the better quality ARF's I have built.

I'm going electric, and wondered how other electric flyers are doing. Is there enough cooling for the power system? I'm planning on removing the material behind the dummy engine's cylinders to allow good air flow. Interestingly, on page 35 of the manual, it says "Remove only the amount of material shown. Removing additional material will only increase the pressure inside the cowling, causing the engine to overheat." I think I understand that in relation to an ICengine, but I would think that a motor would need all the airflow possible, with good exit airflow area as well.

The only snag I am having is with the Robart electric retracts. My right retract does not fit into the wing as the mounting holes do not line up. This is due to the retract rails being slightly offset. The left main fits fine. I contacted Horizon, and they finally refered me to Robart. I built a quickie test stand so that I could set up and test the retracts, and I found that after 3 to 5 activations, one or the other main retract would fail to operate. No telling where it would get stuck or when. Using the transmitter to reverse command, does not help, the stuck retract remains stuck. I did find that gently moving the actuator screw back and forth would restore operation temporarily. Robart told me to pack it all up, and they sent a ship tag, so the whole works, mains, and electric tailwheel are on their way back to them. I have never had to deal with Robart before, so I hope that they will be able to get me a good reliable working set. I would really hate to have to fly this beautiful bird with fixed landing gear. Fortunately, the weather here in Phoenix is nasty hot, so waiting for the retracts is not a problem. I hope to be able to fly this plane in September.

I did some of the mods that John Redman suggested such as "finishing" the covering on the backsides of the control surfaces. That DOES make a big difference. Ihave never used UltraCote before, and I can see that I like it. I like the fact that Ultracote does not have layers that can separate like Monokote. So I bought Olive Drab, Silver, and Cub Yellow; Ouch, that stuff is expensive. If anyone needs a small patch, let me know, I'll send you some.

Nick

nioa

Received the Robart retracts back from Robart. They have been repaired, and they seem to be fine. On with the build....

I'm thinking about tailwheel doors to go with the tailwheel retract. I think I can do it. I will use a single programmable retract on a control cable. The doors themselves will use a spring to hold them in the open position. The servo will "pull" them when they need to be closed. The servo will be programmed to 10% speed, so the doors open and close realistically.

"Horizon now sells the P-47 on their website for $399! With FREE shipping!" EDIT: Plane has been discontinued and is no longer available.

Nick

njmheli

Hi Guys.

Well,finally managed to get the "Maiden" done on "Dirty 71".....not one of my better maidens though !!!

The OS GT55 went "sick" on me on the T/O roll,was then committed to flight !!!........barely 50% power,but got into the air ( just !!! and too close to some flying mates !!! ).I thought I has the OS sorted on mixture,but I was wrong........managed to keep her in the air,tried to get the OS to peak-out,but way too rich.Thought she was pretty near the stall a couple of times,kept the gear down and all the doors stayed on !!!..........looks like my "mod" was working.

Bit of a bounce on landing,but not too hard..........Flies nice with no power !!! just a few adjustments with the expo and ready to try again.

OS,now sorted out on the deck and showing 6880 on RPM on Biela 4BL 19 x8 " Mustang Prop " ( the one which she flew with ).........But will try a Biela 4BL 18 x 10 next time.

This should be the link :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0wTZp3de8k


Hope all your builds have gone ok and all flying good !!

Regards................Nick (UK).