Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Warbirds and Warplanes
Reload this Page >

Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

Notices
RC Warbirds and Warplanes Discuss rc warbirds and warplanes in this forum.

Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

Old 09-28-2014, 10:01 AM
  #1076  
Greg Wright
My Feedback: (6)
 
Greg Wright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm also working on a H9 corsair. It will be powered with a saito FG57 which is a great combo for this plane. I have seen one of the proto types fly with this engine in it and it flies great.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	10719058_884258201587352_1528079803_n.jpg
Views:	486
Size:	161.6 KB
ID:	2035615  
Old 09-28-2014, 12:05 PM
  #1077  
rslstft
My Feedback: (10)
 
rslstft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Casey
The Corsair I built for a customer, I used the FG-84. I used 0.200" stand-offs to space it from the firewall. As the carb sits inside the engine box, I moved the fuel tank back where the rudder servo sits, relocationg the rudder servo underneath the tail wheel retract cylinder. Sounds worse than it was, really not that much work for a modeler that would be putting this plane together. I did order the Keleo exhaust ring, but didn't use it. The fit, shall we say. wasn't the best, and the ring would have required modifying the engine box extensively. I wasn't comfortable with that, thinking it might weaken it. I used the stock flex exhaust included with the engine routing them through the scale pipes on the right side of the plane that Hanger 9 includes as part of the dress up accessories. It was almost as if they planned the length of the flex tubes as they reached the dress-up exhaust tubes perfectly. The only holes in the entire cowl were 2 very small ones for the choke rod and carb adjustment screw. Engine is perfect for that plane in my opinion and will probably get better as the engine is worn in. 24oz tank, 8 minute flight, just a bit more that half the tank used!
Old 09-28-2014, 05:09 PM
  #1078  
Mpizpilot
My Feedback: (45)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wading River, NY
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Greg Wright View Post
You can just use one of these nice small light weight voltage reg's in line with the light controller to drop the voltage down far enough as to not burn up any of the lights or the controller.
excellent, thanks
Old 09-29-2014, 02:42 PM
  #1079  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Quick question.....

Any of you guys have a small space or gap on the front wing saddle where the wing goes into the forward fuse? I have about 5mm and I can see the carbon dowels going into the holes in the fuse. Is this normal? I know there is no way to adjust this.....wondering what you all have in the way of a gap?


--Tested my ROBART AIR retracts....all systems are a go except my tailwheel will not retract...$#@$%! It may be that I do not have enough PSI in the tank (only filled it to 60psi) to do the job but once I take the wing back off I will try to investigate. Kinda wish I went with electrics now....but so many on RCU swear by all the trouble they were having.
Old 09-29-2014, 03:43 PM
  #1080  
Greg Wright
My Feedback: (6)
 
Greg Wright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=CaptRKO;11890355]Quick question.....

Any of you guys have a small space or gap on the front wing saddle where the wing goes into the forward fuse? I have about 5mm and I can see the carbon dowels going into the holes in the fuse. Is this normal? I know there is no way to adjust this.....wondering what you all have in the way of a gap?


If you look at the side view picture i posted. Post #1076 it appears as if i have the same gap.

I'm not to worried about it as this is a mass produced ARF not a self built project. If i had built it then i would be a little more critical about the fit of everything.
Old 09-29-2014, 04:04 PM
  #1081  
rslstft
My Feedback: (10)
 
rslstft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My tailwheel was troublesome at first also. I lubed up the pivot points with some grease, worked it in by hand several times and then the gear cycled much easier with less air pressure than previously. Have had absolutely no issues with the air gear.
Old 09-29-2014, 07:15 PM
  #1082  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=Greg Wright;11890379]
Originally Posted by CaptRKO View Post
Quick question.....

Any of you guys have a small space or gap on the front wing saddle where the wing goes into the forward fuse? I have about 5mm and I can see the carbon dowels going into the holes in the fuse. Is this normal? I know there is no way to adjust this.....wondering what you all have in the way of a gap?

ok good to know.....just that right up the road from me "Bucky" had his wing failure on flight #1 right after takeoff. I agree with you on the mass produced ARF. Thanks!



If you look at the side view picture i posted. Post #1076 it appears as if i have the same gap.

I'm not to worried about it as this is a mass produced ARF not a self built project. If i had built it then i would be a little more critical about the fit of everything.


ok good to know.....just that right up the road from me "Bucky" had his wing failure on flight #1 right after takeoff. I agree with you on the mass produced ARF. Thanks!
Old 09-29-2014, 07:16 PM
  #1083  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rslstft View Post
My tailwheel was troublesome at first also. I lubed up the pivot points with some grease, worked it in by hand several times and then the gear cycled much easier with less air pressure than previously. Have had absolutely no issues with the air gear.

I was thinking about doing just that....thank you for the input.
Old 09-29-2014, 07:33 PM
  #1084  
drottman300
My Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DuQuoin, IL
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Can I ask how much weight did you have to put in the nose of your corsair??
Old 09-29-2014, 07:34 PM
  #1085  
drottman300
My Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DuQuoin, IL
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rslstft View Post
Casey
The Corsair I built for a customer, I used the FG-84. I used 0.200" stand-offs to space it from the firewall. As the carb sits inside the engine box, I moved the fuel tank back where the rudder servo sits, relocationg the rudder servo underneath the tail wheel retract cylinder. Sounds worse than it was, really not that much work for a modeler that would be putting this plane together. I did order the Keleo exhaust ring, but didn't use it. The fit, shall we say. wasn't the best, and the ring would have required modifying the engine box extensively. I wasn't comfortable with that, thinking it might weaken it. I used the stock flex exhaust included with the engine routing them through the scale pipes on the right side of the plane that Hanger 9 includes as part of the dress up accessories. It was almost as if they planned the length of the flex tubes as they reached the dress-up exhaust tubes perfectly. The only holes in the entire cowl were 2 very small ones for the choke rod and carb adjustment screw. Engine is perfect for that plane in my opinion and will probably get better as the engine is worn in. 24oz tank, 8 minute flight, just a bit more that half the tank used!
how much weight did you have to put in the nose??
Old 09-29-2014, 07:35 PM
  #1086  
drottman300
My Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DuQuoin, IL
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=CaptRKO;11890514]
Originally Posted by Greg Wright View Post



ok good to know.....just that right up the road from me "Bucky" had his wing failure on flight #1 right after takeoff. I agree with you on the mass produced ARF. Thanks!
I have no gap in mine!!
Old 09-30-2014, 11:28 AM
  #1087  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rslstft View Post
My tailwheel was troublesome at first also. I lubed up the pivot points with some grease, worked it in by hand several times and then the gear cycled much easier with less air pressure than previously. Have had absolutely no issues with the air gear.
What type of grease did you use? Can I get some at Home Depot??????
Old 09-30-2014, 11:38 AM
  #1088  
oriole
My Feedback: (19)
 
oriole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Eldersburg, MD
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil...0?N=5yc1vZc24p

My pneumatic mains would stick slightly when the pressure was low. I used Lithium Grease on the Joints.

Oriole
Old 09-30-2014, 11:53 AM
  #1089  
affas
 
affas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lier, NORWAY
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The plane is just fantastic except one thing. All china crap plastic are total disaster, all hatches, wheel doors, tailwheel doors, everything cracks and falls off. I have had quite some few ARF`s and this is unfortuneately the worst I have seen. Is it just my plane or is this the standard? I also had the H9 bubble P47 30cc and the 1/4 scale Super Cub and nothing like this on these two planes.

Horizon???

I can send You some photos.....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM4McMUgTk8

Last edited by affas; 09-30-2014 at 12:12 PM.
Old 09-30-2014, 12:47 PM
  #1090  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by oriole View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil...0?N=5yc1vZc24p

My pneumatic mains would stick slightly when the pressure was low. I used Lithium Grease on the Joints.

Oriole
Thank you sir!


I ended up using some gun oil/lubricant and that did the trick.....except I should admit that I installed my air hoses backwards on the tailwheel actuator.....I followed the Robart instruction sheet but it is incorrect, bottom line I reversed the lines and my gear work perfect!!!!
Old 09-30-2014, 03:14 PM
  #1091  
rslstft
My Feedback: (10)
 
rslstft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Affas,
I'm not sure what happened with your plastic pieces, but mine had no issues. That's not good for you. I even heated the main gear doors with a hot air gun to get the correct curve in them to fit flush when I installed them. Same thing with the sliding canopy, although, I did NOT heat that with the hot air gun. I was pleasantly surprised that it stayed closed with just the magnet holding it. I never would have thought it would have.
Drottman,
With the Saito FG-84 in the nose, I put somewhere right around 2 pounds of lead in the inside of the nose ring of the cowl. 2 2600mah Li batteries in the hatch in front and 1 of the same for ignition inside the fuselage up front next to the fuel tank. I balanced it right at the rearward part of the CG zone and I like the way it flies.
Old 09-30-2014, 03:48 PM
  #1092  
Zeeb
My Feedback: (41)
 
Zeeb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: St George, Utah UT
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You used the FG-84 and STILL had to put 2 lbs. of lead in the nose?????

Man, I just dropped mine off at my builders house yesterday and was hoping that with all three batteries up front and the big Saito, I might get away from adding lead to the nose. UGH!!!!! lol
Old 09-30-2014, 04:06 PM
  #1093  
rslstft
My Feedback: (10)
 
rslstft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Zeeb,
You know what? It still flew great at about 34 pounds. Nice and smooth in the air, no sinking in the turns, and penetrated the wind nicely. When I felt the weight of the Saito, I was thinking "Great! Won't have to add much nose weight at all!" Oh well! I'm not sure how the Horizon guys got away without adding much weight, but I just know what I had to do. I originally started out with close to 4lbs, but took about 1/2 that out. Probably could even get away with less in the nose, I think the CG zone in the manual is conservative, might be able to go back a little more, but like I said, flies nicely now.
Old 09-30-2014, 04:36 PM
  #1094  
CaptRKO
My Feedback: (3)
 
CaptRKO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: KEMAH TEXAS
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Does anyone recall how much Mike Mc....added to his Corsair (he had a G-62) for nose weight?
Old 09-30-2014, 05:03 PM
  #1095  
Chris Nicastro
 
Chris Nicastro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Just for comparison sake the TF GS Corsair needs about 4lbs of nose weight when using a DLE 55RA. I used duck decoy lead strips and folded them like ribbons and hammered them flat. Then the weight was enclosed in a box on the firewall. I also had the 2200mah LiFe ignition pack on top if the engine box. The biggest difference I can see is the AUW was about 26lbs. Pretty significant difference between the planes, about 6lbs.
Old 09-30-2014, 08:06 PM
  #1096  
Mpizpilot
My Feedback: (45)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wading River, NY
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by affas View Post
The plane is just fantastic except one thing. All china crap plastic are total disaster, all hatches, wheel doors, tailwheel doors, everything cracks and falls off. I have had quite some few ARF`s and this is unfortuneately the worst I have seen. Is it just my plane or is this the standard? I also had the H9 bubble P47 30cc and the 1/4 scale Super Cub and nothing like this on these two planes.

Horizon???

I can send You some photos.....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM4McMUgTk8

Interesting, you must have gotten a lighter pull from the mold. All of the plastic on mine was relatively thick and flexible. Only issue I had was the paint peeling off when I would cut or drill the plastic.
Old 09-30-2014, 08:13 PM
  #1097  
Mpizpilot
My Feedback: (45)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wading River, NY
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Finally up on its feet.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	938.7 KB
ID:	2036477  
Old 09-30-2014, 09:38 PM
  #1098  
rslstft
My Feedback: (10)
 
rslstft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin, CA
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Chris,
Admittedly, I tend to build heavy as I reinforce the firewall, and some of the bulkheads near the nose. Gassers tend to vibrate quite a bit, and having never run the Saito FG-84, I wasn't sure how much it would vibrate, plus it is a fairly heavy engine. I probably could have stayed lighter, now that I know how smooth the Saito runs, but it didn't seem to hurt it's flying performance. When I relocated the rudder servo rearward, that may have caused the need for a bit more weight as I made the servo mount very solid. I also added a 1/8 ply "floor" for the fuel tank to sit on and added supports for the 2 elevator servos since I cut out some out the factory mount. I also used 2 of the light controllers, 1 in the wing and 1 in the fuselage because the wires and connectors are very small gauge and I wasn't sure how long they would last plugging and unplugging them if the center wing section was removed - again, probably a bit over done. Also added the bomb drops. I used JR 8411 servos throughout, and they are a bit heavy. I also modified the center section using 2 flap servos as there is quite a bit of flap area. The servos may be overkill, but I once had a very well know flier and aircraft designer tell me you can under-servo a airplane,but you can never really over-servo it. Servos are relatively cheap insurance for long term trouble free flying, IMO. The receiver was the Spektrum 12120 with the X-Plus expander because I like putting everything on it's own channel. Add in the 4 additional servos for the gear doors, JR 370a gyro, SmartFly optic kill switch, full figured/dressed pilot, and I'm sure that's where a lot of the weight comes from.
I thought at that weight, I would have to land fast but with that big Saito, once you pull it to idle, with the flaps down all the way, it slows the plane down fast. So once you are about to touch, the rollout isn't as long as you think it would be. It's as fast as my Mustang and top speed on that is GPS check at 120
They guy I built it for has only flown it about 6-8 times since I gave it to him, so I know the engine still isn't broken in, so it should get a little faster.
What I did for this plane worked for me and he was happy with it, but that's not to say there aren't 100 different ways to get similar results. I DO know, if I build one for myself, I would build it exactly the same except for using metal gear servos for the main doors as one of the doors got a stripped servo gear somehow?!
Hope this helps some of you guys. I'm jealous as it is such a beautiful plane in the air and on the ground and flies fantastic. Wish I could have kept it, have too much going on right now to get one of my own.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3845.JPG
Views:	347
Size:	2.87 MB
ID:	2036489  

Last edited by rslstft; 09-30-2014 at 09:56 PM.
Old 09-30-2014, 11:28 PM
  #1099  
Chris Nicastro
 
Chris Nicastro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thats cool, your right there are infinite outcomes.
Im very interested in the FG 84 engine for a SiST FW 190 A8 build later on and Im happy to hear good things about the engine.

FYI for Corsair pilots and future pilots alike, the Corsairs flaps are very very effective. So much so that with full flaps deployed they can reduce the authority of the rudder and elevator when transitioning to slower speeds upon landing. Take care and consider raising them once the plane has settled to make sure you have positive ground control.

That gear door servo might have stripped from turbulence and prop wash, who knows since the engine is smoother than a 55 two stroke.
Old 10-01-2014, 04:44 AM
  #1100  
BarracudaHockey
My Feedback: (11)
 
BarracudaHockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 23,732
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rslstft View Post
Zeeb,
You know what? It still flew great at about 34 pounds. Nice and smooth in the air, no sinking in the turns, and penetrated the wind nicely. When I felt the weight of the Saito, I was thinking "Great! Won't have to add much nose weight at all!" Oh well! I'm not sure how the Horizon guys got away without adding much weight, but I just know what I had to do. I originally started out with close to 4lbs, but took about 1/2 that out. Probably could even get away with less in the nose, I think the CG zone in the manual is conservative, might be able to go back a little more, but like I said, flies nicely now.
I found this true with the 30cc Spitfire. Took a fair bit of lead to get the CG in the manual. Flying it felt nose heavy, removed close to 1.75 pounds to get it to where it felt right in the air (which is still very slightly nose heavy)

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.