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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

Old 11-27-2014, 11:30 AM
  #1351  
Zeeb
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Originally Posted by jonyfever View Post
Chorner your work is superbe but after all that work to cover it with ultracote would be a shame i was also thinking of glassing mine but after shrinking the stock coating it didnt look bad at all h9 did a great jobe on the coating . What gets me is the cost of all the parts to finish from horizon. Lets face it a great looking plane but it aint no comp arf lol just my 2 cents
No it's no Comp-Arf and it doesn't cost NEARY as much as the Comp-Arf Corsair even with plugin wings instead of the folding wings. And if you want to spend some money, checkout what they get for that retract set, it'll make some of your jet stuff look cheap.

This is a great model for an ARF with the attention to detail that Horizon put into the thing. One must suspect that there will not be a lot of these models sold in comparison to Horizon's other offerings. Therefore, the price of the individual parts will be more per each due to fixed development costs and a smaller production run.

The only thing I did about the gear was to go with the Sierra's after I'd bought the Robart electrics, returned them to Robart to convert 'em to pneumatic and deciding I didn't want to go with the Robarts... lol So I've got a brand new set of the Robart mains down at my builders house to get rid of at some point. I won't be going down there (about 300 miles) again until it's done which should be shortly. If you're interested and still don't have a gear set by then, I'll give you a shout?

Oh, the electric gear and brakes for my little 2.0 ViperJet were $1600.00. The Shockwave came with the gear and so I don't know what it cost by it's self, but the model was pretty spendy...
Old 11-27-2014, 05:58 PM
  #1352  
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Yes i agree the hobby is quite costly at times but we love it and thats why ill continue to biuld lol . But yes i would be interested in your retracts i dont care much for electric myself. I tryed ordering them but alot of the stuff is backordered and they dont give any dates so keep me in minde thanks
Old 11-27-2014, 07:58 PM
  #1353  
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Honestly this plane could've been fit together and the QC a bit tighter especially for a smaller run "specialty" plane like this Corsair. For a large company like Hangar 9 I should say I'm surprised but honestly the industry as a whole has less than stellar QC. Shameful part of the hobby IMO. Anyhow....

Despite that, this Corsair is a lot less expensive overall and a nice size in my opinion. that being said it's probably more a "builders ARF" to begin with, and has room for personal touches and improvements which will be in a way part of the fun outside of things like poor part fitment...
Old 11-30-2014, 04:46 PM
  #1354  
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Default evolution 777 for sale

hi everyone i ahve a brand new in the original box evolution 777 with the evolution silencer ring. engine is $1300 and ring is $160 from horizon hobby
id like to get $1200 for everything obo


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Old 11-30-2014, 06:41 PM
  #1355  
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Originally Posted by chorner View Post
Honestly this plane could've been fit together and the QC a bit tighter especially for a smaller run "specialty" plane like this Corsair. For a large company like Hangar 9 I should say I'm surprised but honestly the industry as a whole has less than stellar QC. Shameful part of the hobby IMO. Anyhow....

Despite that, this Corsair is a lot less expensive overall and a nice size in my opinion. that being said it's probably more a "builders ARF" to begin with, and has room for personal touches and improvements which will be in a way part of the fun outside of things like poor part fitment...
Not to argue a point but are you sure this is a QC issue and not actually the way the plane was designed to be manufactured? I'd think that if several got out of the factory with excessive gaps and then others don't then there would be a QC concern but if they are all the same then they are within design spec right?
Personally, I would prefer to see that they are all the same so we can be assured the assembly process is being repeated by the assemblers. If there were several variations ( larger gaps on some tighter gaps on others) then the concern would be the repeatability of the assembly process. Just my opinion.

PS, I ordered mine today ��
Old 12-01-2014, 04:51 PM
  #1356  
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Todd: Well if it isn't a QC issue, I'm not sure why exactly they would design it with such poor fitment in a couple areas. It doesn't make sense to me, and certainly isn't for performance reasons I wouldn't imagine. I asked Hangar 9 about it, so I'll see what reply I get back on it out of curiosity.
Old 12-01-2014, 05:10 PM
  #1357  
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I have a question for you other Hangar 9 Corsair owners.
Has anyone but me had any bad luck with the electric tailwheel actuator from Robart?
I've had three so far that have broken the plastic housings. They seem to pull too hard before they "amp out".
Old 12-01-2014, 05:19 PM
  #1358  
Todd D
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Originally Posted by chorner View Post
Todd: Well if it isn't a QC issue, I'm not sure why exactly they would design it with such poor fitment in a couple areas. It doesn't make sense to me, and certainly isn't for performance reasons I wouldn't imagine. I asked Hangar 9 about it, so I'll see what reply I get back on it out of curiosity.
Good idea, I'll be interested in hearing the answer on that one.
Old 12-01-2014, 05:50 PM
  #1359  
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Id had to take mine out because it wouldn't amp out it would get to the end of the cycle and keep clicking for one minute up and down
Old 12-01-2014, 06:41 PM
  #1360  
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Originally Posted by kalzone View Post
Id had to take mine out because it wouldn't amp out it would get to the end of the cycle and keep clicking for one minute up and down
http://youtu.be/szQYMrBYqss

Here is another option that works well. Earl Aune tail wheel.
Old 12-03-2014, 06:00 PM
  #1361  
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cant remember if i asked this before but i have a spar da 50 sitin around do u guys think it will be enough for this bird . thoughts
Old 12-03-2014, 06:28 PM
  #1362  
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DA 50? I'd say yes for sure, plenty of gusto. You'll need a lot of nose weight though. Guys with a G62 are still adding a couple of pounds, minimum.
Old 12-03-2014, 08:52 PM
  #1363  
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Originally Posted by trickpony4 View Post
I have a question for you other Hangar 9 Corsair owners.
Has anyone but me had any bad luck with the electric tailwheel actuator from Robart?
I've had three so far that have broken the plastic housings. They seem to pull too hard before they "amp out".
I'm using the Robart electric tail gear and actuator and the plastic housing has about a 1/32" gap. After several cycles, the gap has remained the same so I think it will be OK?
Old 12-04-2014, 01:00 AM
  #1364  
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Originally Posted by njmheli View Post
Hi All.

Have just got my tail gear installed and completed the tail wheel doors ,so starting to catch up a bit now............I decided to link the tail wheel doors to the tail retract unit ( I did the same sort of idea on my P-47 ).All appears to work well,with very little extra load on the electric motor !!!

I had to re-spray the tail wheel doors as I found that the paint had very little "key to the plastic", I found out when I was doing the main gear doors etc........alot was just flaking off after the cutting etc.

These are a few photo's of my set up :

A short video is here : www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQj5Z0KuUh0&feature=youtu.be

Regards....................Nick (UK)
Great job. Are you using the Robart actuator? Your cycle speed is about 4 or 5 times faster than my setup which is using the Robart actuator.
Old 12-04-2014, 03:03 AM
  #1365  
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Originally Posted by ashworthb View Post
Great job. Are you using the Robart actuator? Your cycle speed is about 4 or 5 times faster than my setup which is using the Robart actuator.
Hi.............Yes,I am using the Robart / D & L actuator,as you know,the speed of the retracts ( main and tail ),will depend on the voltage supplied.....more volts = more speed.

I did find that the "throw" given by the actuator and trying to get the tail wheel to stop in a near scale position was not possible,ie about 40% of the wheel showing out....to acheive this position,the actuator ( on my set up ) was straining and bending the push-rod on the "down" position...........so I have it set that there is no strain on the actuator in either the up or down positions...............and the actuator stops when it reaches the correct "amp-out" point on it's travel.

Not sure,but if there are problems with the actuator housing,this may be caused by incorrect push-rod length set ...???

When I was fitting mine out,I attached the actuator,then moved the whole actuator and push-rod set up to get the travel /length of push-rod correct ( ended up by cutting a few mm off at the actuator end )...........I can remove the pin that attaches the actuator to the bracket at either position ( up or down ),this then proves to me that there is no additional strain or forcing on the set-up ).

On the Pin / Bracket set up,I found that the heads of the supplied screws were too near and touching the cables coming out of the actuator,so I have used 2 x countersunk M2 bolts + washers and nyloc's to mount the bracket ( the holes in the bracket were countersunk,to give the bolts an almost "flush" fit )....plenty of clearance now.

Regards..................Nick (UK).
Old 12-04-2014, 11:49 AM
  #1366  
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Originally Posted by njmheli View Post
Hi.............Yes,I am using the Robart / D & L actuator,as you know,the speed of the retracts ( main and tail ),will depend on the voltage supplied.....more volts = more speed.

I did find that the "throw" given by the actuator and trying to get the tail wheel to stop in a near scale position was not possible,ie about 40% of the wheel showing out....to acheive this position,the actuator ( on my set up ) was straining and bending the push-rod on the "down" position...........so I have it set that there is no strain on the actuator in either the up or down positions...............and the actuator stops when it reaches the correct "amp-out" point on it's travel.

Not sure,but if there are problems with the actuator housing,this may be caused by incorrect push-rod length set ...???

When I was fitting mine out,I attached the actuator,then moved the whole actuator and push-rod set up to get the travel /length of push-rod correct ( ended up by cutting a few mm off at the actuator end )...........I can remove the pin that attaches the actuator to the bracket at either position ( up or down ),this then proves to me that there is no additional strain or forcing on the set-up ).

On the Pin / Bracket set up,I found that the heads of the supplied screws were too near and touching the cables coming out of the actuator,so I have used 2 x countersunk M2 bolts + washers and nyloc's to mount the bracket ( the holes in the bracket were countersunk,to give the bolts an almost "flush" fit )....plenty of clearance now.

Regards..................Nick (UK).
Thanks. I'm not having a problem with the housing, just the speed. I'm powering the actuator with the receiver power supply (2) 7.4 volt Lipos through voltage regulators reducing voltage to 6. Are you using a separate battery to power the retract control unit?
Old 12-04-2014, 12:14 PM
  #1367  
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I too was having a problem with the speed ( Lack of ). The actuator takes 22 seconds @ 8V to the Robart power box. Robart told me the speed is not going to get any better !
I have recently replaced the linear actuator with a high Torque Digital servo, and programed the speed @ 2.5 seconds.
I have a Robart actuator for sale cheap !
Old 12-04-2014, 02:14 PM
  #1368  
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Originally Posted by ashworthb View Post
Thanks. I'm not having a problem with the housing, just the speed. I'm powering the actuator with the receiver power supply (2) 7.4 volt Lipos through voltage regulators reducing voltage to 6. Are you using a separate battery to power the retract control unit?
Hi.

Yes,on all my aircraft fitted with electric retracts ( Robart,E-Flight + Lado ),I always use a seperate battery...........On the Corsair,I am using a 2S Lipo into the "Robart Box",peek as charged voltage starts at around 8.4v.........guess at the moment I have a "fast actuator"..?

Regards............Nick (UK).
Old 12-04-2014, 02:38 PM
  #1369  
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Originally Posted by DOC View Post
I too was having a problem with the speed ( Lack of ). The actuator takes 22 seconds @ 8V to the Robart power box. Robart told me the speed is not going to get any better !
I have recently replaced the linear actuator with a high Torque Digital servo, and programed the speed @ 2.5 seconds.
I have a Robart actuator for sale cheap !
My cycle time for the Robart retract tail gear is about the same as yours (23 secs) which is 4 or 5 seconds slower than my Robart Electric main gear. I guess I'll just live with the slow speeds and hope that I never need to lower the gear in an emergency requiring a faster gear down time. Another question I have is the delay between switch and the actual start of the retracts is about 3 or 4 seconds. I have the settings on the control box set to no delay, yet there is still a 3 or 4 second delay before the gear is activated?
Old 12-04-2014, 07:28 PM
  #1370  
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Originally Posted by DOC View Post
I too was having a problem with the speed ( Lack of ). The actuator takes 22 seconds @ 8V to the Robart power box. Robart told me the speed is not going to get any better !
I have recently replaced the linear actuator with a high Torque Digital servo, and programed the speed @ 2.5 seconds.
I have a Robart actuator for sale cheap !


DOC
can you post a picture of how you put the servo in? i am having to do the same the accuator make a bad noise now and i have changed to serria air instead of robart electrics.

kal
Old 12-05-2014, 11:11 PM
  #1371  
jonyfever
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well put on the drop tanks today. they look great but with the e flight release mechanism they are really wobbley was thinking of permanently gluing them in how would you guys think it would fly with the drop tanks lots of drag? i will probebly need a bigger motor than a da 50 i think. thoughts
Old 12-06-2014, 06:44 AM
  #1372  
DOC
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Fever, Yes the tanks are very wobbly. I would not fly using them, they were just expensive add ons and the actuators are tricky. I have flown drop tanks on many models and none of them have effected the aircraft performance adversely. You will not need a bigger engine .
Old 12-06-2014, 07:38 AM
  #1373  
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Unable to load photo. Added the servo next to the RT elev servo by raising it about 1/8". Also moved the actuator rod sheath to align. Make sure the servo is pointing at the tail when its locked down. You can adjust the servo to 180 degrees and adjust the speed with a Hitec Servo programer.

I WAS FINALY ABLE TO UPLOAD PHOTO !
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:53 PM
  #1374  
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doc thanks for the reply. on the maiden i will fly without the drop tanks if all goes well after a few flights i will try with the drop tanks i dont think them being a littlle wobbly will afecct them may even permenantly mount them glue them into place nothin beats a corsair flyin by with full armament and the big tanks
Old 12-06-2014, 08:46 PM
  #1375  
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can anybody tell me what kind of hindges work best for the gear and tail wheel doors size placement . pics would be great thanks in advance

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