P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
#1151

My Feedback: (1)

HA!!
I now know what you are referring to!!
This shows how old we are.
I want to say, 16 years ago, there used to be a model aiprlane organization, not the AMA, that had this requriement for gas motors
SO i would set up a ZENOAH G38 with a switch on the fuslelage side, that would allow me to kill the motor in the case of emergencey.
Was it called IMAA??
LOL!!
long time ago
IMAA went away, dissolved.
I now know what you are referring to!!
This shows how old we are.
I want to say, 16 years ago, there used to be a model aiprlane organization, not the AMA, that had this requriement for gas motors
SO i would set up a ZENOAH G38 with a switch on the fuslelage side, that would allow me to kill the motor in the case of emergencey.
Was it called IMAA??
LOL!!
long time ago
IMAA went away, dissolved.
#1152

it's the way it used to be...Has it changed?
I'm setting mine up as a magnetic switch on fuselage side...swipe the magnet, on/off. The a/c position lights being that indicator. Power to ignition handled by optical kill. It's led behind instrument panel, when on, instrument "backlighting" will be on.
But, it used to be for anything above an electric park flyer, if the prop was turned by a combustible fuel, it had have switches....I may be mistaken. After all, it has been 8 years. The club I used to fly at wouldn't let a bird fly without them, except on electrics. Their (switch) was throttle off, but they still had to have, at least, a two position switch between battery and reciever to power the whole thing down.
You also could not power or start until A/C was at the edge of the runway if it was not restrained.
the reason they implemented the rule for electrics, they had a runaway. Guy bumped his throttle by accident, plane took off, hit someone else before he could grab radio and shut it down. That apc prop caused damage that required 90 stitches to numerous cuts on both the victims legs.
they had a designated area for ground run ups/engine testing that was not near the pits.
I'm setting mine up as a magnetic switch on fuselage side...swipe the magnet, on/off. The a/c position lights being that indicator. Power to ignition handled by optical kill. It's led behind instrument panel, when on, instrument "backlighting" will be on.
But, it used to be for anything above an electric park flyer, if the prop was turned by a combustible fuel, it had have switches....I may be mistaken. After all, it has been 8 years. The club I used to fly at wouldn't let a bird fly without them, except on electrics. Their (switch) was throttle off, but they still had to have, at least, a two position switch between battery and reciever to power the whole thing down.
You also could not power or start until A/C was at the edge of the runway if it was not restrained.
the reason they implemented the rule for electrics, they had a runaway. Guy bumped his throttle by accident, plane took off, hit someone else before he could grab radio and shut it down. That apc prop caused damage that required 90 stitches to numerous cuts on both the victims legs.
they had a designated area for ground run ups/engine testing that was not near the pits.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 12-04-2021 at 07:11 AM.
#1153

My Feedback: (11)

Clubs implement rules all the time, some make sense, some are power trips by club officers and pointless.
I always get a chuckle when I hang out at a club where nobody knows who I am and I hear people quoting what they think are AMA rules. When I politely correct them they ask how I know. I'm like, well I'm on the AMA Safety Committee for one, I'm also your district Vice President for another
Speaking specifically of the AMA, the only rules about switches apply to giant scale gas racing, not mainstream sport flying.
I always get a chuckle when I hang out at a club where nobody knows who I am and I hear people quoting what they think are AMA rules. When I politely correct them they ask how I know. I'm like, well I'm on the AMA Safety Committee for one, I'm also your district Vice President for another

Speaking specifically of the AMA, the only rules about switches apply to giant scale gas racing, not mainstream sport flying.
#1154

Step one in getting a Zenoah G62 to act like a 70 cc engine (I hope)
This is the Stinsel reed valve conversion kit for the Zenoah. Not only does it convert the engine to reed valve induction, but allows "clocking" the carb to get rid of the awkward angle to the throttle and choke linkage. The downside, it adds an inch of width to the engine. I'm probably going to have to let it through the cowl and fashion a rear facing scoop to keep the prop wash from messing with the carb.


When the engine comes back from performance unlimited, the spring starter shaft will not be there. It's getting machined off. They'll also port the engine for the conversion.
This is the Stinsel reed valve conversion kit for the Zenoah. Not only does it convert the engine to reed valve induction, but allows "clocking" the carb to get rid of the awkward angle to the throttle and choke linkage. The downside, it adds an inch of width to the engine. I'm probably going to have to let it through the cowl and fashion a rear facing scoop to keep the prop wash from messing with the carb.


When the engine comes back from performance unlimited, the spring starter shaft will not be there. It's getting machined off. They'll also port the engine for the conversion.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 12-04-2021 at 03:14 PM.
#1155

Here is the best shot I could get of the piston through the exhaust port.
Be interesting to see the difference when it comes back from performance. I also noted, at bottom of stroke, piston top was about 1 mm below exhaust port. I know they are changing the stroke. Be interesting to see how much it changes.

Be interesting to see the difference when it comes back from performance. I also noted, at bottom of stroke, piston top was about 1 mm below exhaust port. I know they are changing the stroke. Be interesting to see how much it changes.

#1156


Got a video of my CMP Mustang, video is a little short as the battery ran out on the camera before the end, you can see the weather we have had over here of late----rain
Mike

Mike

#1159

These are older pics. I'm a bit further along than shown here. But it has been on Hiatus for a while. Life has just gotten in the way a bit. I'm trying to get started on it again, but not sure I want to finish it, I may just get the TF art version and transfer everything into that one.
Thanks for starting this brotherhood. It's about time.
Eric
Did you finish it or...
#1160

Still waiting on tower to ship mustang and the wheels for the retracts...
slight snafu by Christian Romoser on the varioprop (he sent the first one to the UK, not the US lol) but that has been corrected and a replacement has shipped. (Is there a city of San Antonio in the UK?)
Engine arrived at Performance Unlimited with two bent cooling fins. They assure me they can straighten them. (Crash damage and its never even been started) Other than that it's just been waiting...reading...some more waiting..
I feel like I'm in a maternity ward waiting room...
slight snafu by Christian Romoser on the varioprop (he sent the first one to the UK, not the US lol) but that has been corrected and a replacement has shipped. (Is there a city of San Antonio in the UK?)
Engine arrived at Performance Unlimited with two bent cooling fins. They assure me they can straighten them. (Crash damage and its never even been started) Other than that it's just been waiting...reading...some more waiting..
I feel like I'm in a maternity ward waiting room...
#1164

You could almost make a scale exhaust cover that acts as a carburetor cover. Otherwise the prop wash might make the carbs go lean.
Was facing that dilemma myself when considering a reed valve conversion to my Zenoah. It would have pushed the carb out past the cowl.
The conversion has, since, been nixed in favor of keeping everything inside the cowl to make my life easier. Also keeps the nose scale appearing.
Just my .02 on something you may have already figured out. But a simple setup that bolts to the carbs at their mounting points, open pipes on the cover and the carbs are sheltered from the wash and still get plenty of fresh air themselves. The box gives the carbs a calm air area to draw from. Design be similar to your exhaust.
Was facing that dilemma myself when considering a reed valve conversion to my Zenoah. It would have pushed the carb out past the cowl.
The conversion has, since, been nixed in favor of keeping everything inside the cowl to make my life easier. Also keeps the nose scale appearing.
Just my .02 on something you may have already figured out. But a simple setup that bolts to the carbs at their mounting points, open pipes on the cover and the carbs are sheltered from the wash and still get plenty of fresh air themselves. The box gives the carbs a calm air area to draw from. Design be similar to your exhaust.
#1166

the idea is to give you back your scale appearance and solve the prop wash issue.
If you are being serious, then making it so it resembles your exhaust you made on the outside, a base plate that mounts the same as your velocity stacks, and mates to the cover via tabs and screws. Just have to be deep enough for the choke plates to fully open. The rest is mostly cosmetic, but still functional. And done like the exit pipes on your exhaust, make sure they are pointed a bit towards the tail, like on a mustang, and the prop wash won't affect the air draw through the carbs. Instead of hot gasses exiting, cool gasses enter. Two birds, one stone.
and, if serious..pictures pictures pictures. Cuz if you do it, the end result will be a splendid looking aircraft.
Mustangs look like they are doing 500 mph..even when sitting still. Like they are straining at the lead, wanting to be airborne.
P38's are just plain sexxy, period. Graceful, fast, and all the right curves.
but, yeah, your carbs are where the scale exhaust detail would be put if I'm correct, so a plenum made to look like it just kinda...makes sense. Even if it doesn't sound like it.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 12-19-2021 at 02:58 PM.
The following users liked this post:
orthobird (12-19-2021)
#1167

So, here is a picture of my same kind of engine with the "missing link" installed. Gets rid of the funky carb position on the stock zenoah intake and makes the engine look so darn tidy like it should have been.




The differences between mine and one in pics, mine is going to be CDI and won't be using the stock zenoah exhaust.
Engine being installed inverted, of course, so carb will be on the port side of the aircraft facing the firewall on the engine box. Should be about 30 mm from it to the firewall.
I've got to baffle the engine some, as it is, for cooling. A baffle is included with the plane, but it's thin plastic. I'll have to redo that and am thinking about CF plate. But also thinking I, to, might benefit from an airbox covering the carb and a air hole through the firewall into the electronics area for it to draw air from.
The other part of this intake setup is a 19 mm carb tube/velocity stack which closes that distance to the firewall to about 10 mm.
What you guys think? Should I box it in?
one other thing I'm having problems finding. The zenoah prop hubs have two pinch pins. Prop mounting is simply done by a 10-1.3 50 mm bolt through center of the propeller, the pins keep the prop from rotating (freewheeling) on the hub. At one time, a drill jig was available for it but no more. I was more interested in the included drill bit...mainly the size. I can find the part number for the pins, but not their length or diameter. If anyone knows give me a shout. That little piece of info is going to be very important, in that, the holes in the varioprop are going to have to be same diameter so it also pinches the pins..if that makes sense.




The differences between mine and one in pics, mine is going to be CDI and won't be using the stock zenoah exhaust.
Engine being installed inverted, of course, so carb will be on the port side of the aircraft facing the firewall on the engine box. Should be about 30 mm from it to the firewall.
I've got to baffle the engine some, as it is, for cooling. A baffle is included with the plane, but it's thin plastic. I'll have to redo that and am thinking about CF plate. But also thinking I, to, might benefit from an airbox covering the carb and a air hole through the firewall into the electronics area for it to draw air from.
The other part of this intake setup is a 19 mm carb tube/velocity stack which closes that distance to the firewall to about 10 mm.
What you guys think? Should I box it in?
one other thing I'm having problems finding. The zenoah prop hubs have two pinch pins. Prop mounting is simply done by a 10-1.3 50 mm bolt through center of the propeller, the pins keep the prop from rotating (freewheeling) on the hub. At one time, a drill jig was available for it but no more. I was more interested in the included drill bit...mainly the size. I can find the part number for the pins, but not their length or diameter. If anyone knows give me a shout. That little piece of info is going to be very important, in that, the holes in the varioprop are going to have to be same diameter so it also pinches the pins..if that makes sense.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 12-19-2021 at 03:35 PM.
#1169

Sourced the airframe from Graves RC. They have 2 more in stock if anyone is interested. Robart had the 5.25 inch 10 spoke mustang wheels/tires for the mains.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-05-2022 at 03:22 PM.
#1170

My Feedback: (9)

my grandson learned to fly in 2020, in the two weeks we had him last year he was flying all our sport planes. flying them like one would expect a kid to high G and zooming everywhere so we held him off on the warbirds, i feel starting him on a foamie would be a dis-service because they will hide the real problems with flying warbirds so many conversations were had about the right wood & glass plane to start him on when he and his uncle went in the attic and pulled out the jemco (also known as mark's models, or dynaflite) fun scale 60 size p-51. this plane earned the attic when in 2016 after a flight one of the open bays in the wing had opened up. rather than recover it i put it in the attic. well he wants it and it was his uncles first warbird so now i'm recovering it. replacing the rhom-air retracts it had for the first 30 years with electric retracts (yuk), and installing electric power. here is a like to the retrofit to date:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=628
Joe
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=628
Joe
#1175

The hanger 9 wing fitment issues many have had don't seem to be an issue with mine. They are tight, but the do slide home with some see sawing the final few inches. Just gonna be a bit of sanding of the inner ribs to make it just a bit easier in and off. Right now takes a wedge and a decent bit of force to get the tabs free so I can see saw them back off. They line up decent, everything lined up with center wing at a glance.
Horizontal stabs slide on and off no issues at all also no play. Pleased with those.
One issue I ran into, the factory runs thread for pulling servo extensions. Theres a channel in the wing where its SUPPOSED to be. The nimrod that built up the right wing decided to run it through the fiberglass for the wing tube. (Facepalm) so that one is going to take some finagling and contortions to get routed for the aileron and lighting.
The included cockpit, though not bad, is just not good enough. The cockpit seat, just from handling it briefly has cracked already. Gave a shout to Jiri to resolve that for me. New cockpit (complete) is in the works and should go in with some minor trim work. Started on getting the canopy rail to slide properly..pin is hanging in the track not exactly sure how to get in there to sand the track a bit..still thinking on that one.

He still has to paint, but Jiri works fast.

Wings good out of the box, but tight.

Cig pack to show scale..this lady is big Still some ironing to do on the rudder but had to pause that..back was killing me.

Forgive the mess, as plane and parts join it will get more organized. The new carb layout I am having to use to keep the carb inside the cowl is still going to take a small engine box/firewall modification. How much depends on how much of a gap I can live with between spinner and cowl. The easy way would leave a goid 1/4 to posibbly 3/8 gap between cowl and back plate. Weighing options. I have 20 mm stand offs and bolts coming from mcmaster carr.
Horizontal stabs slide on and off no issues at all also no play. Pleased with those.
One issue I ran into, the factory runs thread for pulling servo extensions. Theres a channel in the wing where its SUPPOSED to be. The nimrod that built up the right wing decided to run it through the fiberglass for the wing tube. (Facepalm) so that one is going to take some finagling and contortions to get routed for the aileron and lighting.
The included cockpit, though not bad, is just not good enough. The cockpit seat, just from handling it briefly has cracked already. Gave a shout to Jiri to resolve that for me. New cockpit (complete) is in the works and should go in with some minor trim work. Started on getting the canopy rail to slide properly..pin is hanging in the track not exactly sure how to get in there to sand the track a bit..still thinking on that one.

He still has to paint, but Jiri works fast.

Wings good out of the box, but tight.

Cig pack to show scale..this lady is big Still some ironing to do on the rudder but had to pause that..back was killing me.

Forgive the mess, as plane and parts join it will get more organized. The new carb layout I am having to use to keep the carb inside the cowl is still going to take a small engine box/firewall modification. How much depends on how much of a gap I can live with between spinner and cowl. The easy way would leave a goid 1/4 to posibbly 3/8 gap between cowl and back plate. Weighing options. I have 20 mm stand offs and bolts coming from mcmaster carr.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-11-2022 at 06:55 AM.