P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
#1176

Hi all,
if somebody would need the nomenclature sheets for P-51 D-25, do not hesitate to contact me. The files are available for free. Can be used for painting masks, water slide stencils or dry rub.
if somebody would need the nomenclature sheets for P-51 D-25, do not hesitate to contact me. The files are available for free. Can be used for painting masks, water slide stencils or dry rub.
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Chris Nicastro (01-13-2022)
#1178
#1182
Junior Member

Hi all... Looking to build a p51 with some original old school engines and wanted some recommendations will pit up some pics of what iv got... Dont know what is worth more money out of the 2 or how much they are worth at all... I have a new never mounted 2.7 husky challenger with prop extention and a 5.5" spinner.
And a brison 5050 4.2 ....want to put 1 in to a p51.... Which one I do not know lol any advice would be appreciated









And a brison 5050 4.2 ....want to put 1 in to a p51.... Which one I do not know lol any advice would be appreciated









#1183

Hi all... Looking to build a p51 with some original old school engines and wanted some recommendations will pit up some pics of what iv got... Dont know what is worth more money out of the 2 or how much they are worth at all... I have a new never mounted 2.7 husky challenger with prop extention and a 5.5" spinner.
And a brison 5050 4.2 ....want to put 1 in to a p51.... Which one I do not know lol any advice would be appreciated









And a brison 5050 4.2 ....want to put 1 in to a p51.... Which one I do not know lol any advice would be appreciated









The bryson, you might need dimensions on but you might find a 1/5 to fit it in. Possibly a 1/4.5 Just depends on the kit. The bryson might be perfect for a Zirolli P51. Then firewall placement could be detirmined by the bryson dimensions. Be a bit light for a CARF.
Are you sure they are just shaft extensions and not prop reduction as well?
The 5.5 spinner would be better suited for the bryson I would think.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-22-2022 at 04:45 AM.
#1184

My Feedback: (1)

For those who have used them before?
Which is more reliable, more predictable, and more dependable?
Robart Red Airvalve
vs
Jet Tronic Dual Airvalve?
I have installed the JetTronic valve in a 45 pound warbird, using Sierra Mains and Tailwheel
and the JetTronic valves seem to have issues
when i try to reset, it remains the same
COnsidering getting rid of the JetTronic and going with the Robart air valve that is operated with a servo
what do the experienced guys (or gals) use?
Which is more reliable, more predictable, and more dependable?
Robart Red Airvalve
vs
Jet Tronic Dual Airvalve?
I have installed the JetTronic valve in a 45 pound warbird, using Sierra Mains and Tailwheel
and the JetTronic valves seem to have issues
when i try to reset, it remains the same
COnsidering getting rid of the JetTronic and going with the Robart air valve that is operated with a servo
what do the experienced guys (or gals) use?
#1185

I've used the robart in the past. Just make sure you got a pretty strong servo and gave it mounted strong. Make a good bracket, with a straight ****bfron servo if at all possible and it will be fine. Think the tension of a choke on a walbro carb on a 100cc engine, its about the same under pressure.
Mine never leaked at the valve. Always seemed to chase leaks in the lines..
Reason I use electric actuated now.
Mine never leaked at the valve. Always seemed to chase leaks in the lines..
Reason I use electric actuated now.
#1186

My Feedback: (9)

i'ld talk to someone at sierra about these:
Sequence Valves (sierragiant.com)
the robarts are fine but the speed adjusters are pressed in and i have one of them in my junk box because of repeated leaking at that point.
as for the tightness on a spool valve go to any auto parts store and get ac reconditioning oil and a head for installing it (if you don't already have one) and empty it into a bottle for saving (after it has been allowed to out gas for a couple of days). i add 1 or 2 drops of that to the spool valves every spring. you can put a little in the system every year (i do) but care has to be taken because it can ruin modern fill valves.
Joe
Sequence Valves (sierragiant.com)
the robarts are fine but the speed adjusters are pressed in and i have one of them in my junk box because of repeated leaking at that point.
as for the tightness on a spool valve go to any auto parts store and get ac reconditioning oil and a head for installing it (if you don't already have one) and empty it into a bottle for saving (after it has been allowed to out gas for a couple of days). i add 1 or 2 drops of that to the spool valves every spring. you can put a little in the system every year (i do) but care has to be taken because it can ruin modern fill valves.
Joe
#1187

In last weeks I am working on some new P-51 CAD designs or revised old designs. One of revised part is P-51 D-15+ instrument panel. The new one will be more detailed and will come with lower fuel selector and hydraulic panel. After P-51B cockpit side panels I did also the CAD design for P-51D cockpit.
#1190

Its ok, Jiri. Your shipment is arriving today. I'll be working on starting to get it installed tonight. I'm plenty happy with what you did for me. Just teasing you some lol. If you send a new panel then I will have ni choice but to strip the ultrakote, glass, panel line and rivet...I'd be dead before it was finished cuz the wife would kill me lol.
#1191

Its ok, Jiri. Your shipment is arriving today. I'll be working on starting to get it installed tonight. I'm plenty happy with what you did for me. Just teasing you some lol. If you send a new panel then I will have ni choice but to strip the ultrakote, glass, panel line and rivet...I'd be dead before it was finished cuz the wife would kill me lol.
#1192

Its ok, Jiri. Your shipment is arriving today. I'll be working on starting to get it installed tonight. I'm plenty happy with what you did for me. Just teasing you some lol. If you send a new panel then I will have ni choice but to strip the ultrakote, glass, panel line and rivet...I'd be dead before it was finished cuz the wife would kill me lol.
#1193

Lots of progress where I can on my mustang. Due to a bit of boneheadedness on my part, getting the retracts set up had to be put on a bit of a hold. I fried the eflite programner cuz I grabbed the wrong battery. Ordered a new, better, setup from dreamworks rc to control the retracts.
So, instead of continuing with retracts, gear door servos and installing the gear doors, I tackled the firewall midification that I had been dreading to get the zenoah to fit like a glove. I'm sure I'll need to make some minor adjustments to get it just right, but, for the most part, other than some final shaping of the air opening, and sealing the engine bay with Klass Kote its pretty much done.
I first sheathed both sides of the firewall with preformed cf plate at 1/16th inch thickness each, increasing the firewall's laminated strength. I then cut the notch out to clear the carburetor...that took most of an afternoon just getting that out. The firewall, pre cf, was 1/2 inch thick layup if 4 1/8th hardwood ply sheets. It did not go quietly. I dulled two 2.5 inch rotary wood saw blades getting it cut out, plus a 3/4 inch making the smaller cuts.
structure built back using cf plate gussets, and 1/8th ply. Back wall of the notch is a two piece lamination of 1/8th ply. After epoxy had set for 24 hrs, I applied approximately 30 pounds of force in direction of thrust...no movement at all. Even the ply bottom if the engine box that had some flex with access panel removed has zero flex now. Its not super pretty but cosmetics aren't important. Its strong and it does the job. Once firewall is drilled for engine mounting, its all getting sealed with Klass Kote 2 part epoxy zinc oxide color paint. It will be sealed up tight and fuel proof.





So, instead of continuing with retracts, gear door servos and installing the gear doors, I tackled the firewall midification that I had been dreading to get the zenoah to fit like a glove. I'm sure I'll need to make some minor adjustments to get it just right, but, for the most part, other than some final shaping of the air opening, and sealing the engine bay with Klass Kote its pretty much done.
I first sheathed both sides of the firewall with preformed cf plate at 1/16th inch thickness each, increasing the firewall's laminated strength. I then cut the notch out to clear the carburetor...that took most of an afternoon just getting that out. The firewall, pre cf, was 1/2 inch thick layup if 4 1/8th hardwood ply sheets. It did not go quietly. I dulled two 2.5 inch rotary wood saw blades getting it cut out, plus a 3/4 inch making the smaller cuts.
structure built back using cf plate gussets, and 1/8th ply. Back wall of the notch is a two piece lamination of 1/8th ply. After epoxy had set for 24 hrs, I applied approximately 30 pounds of force in direction of thrust...no movement at all. Even the ply bottom if the engine box that had some flex with access panel removed has zero flex now. Its not super pretty but cosmetics aren't important. Its strong and it does the job. Once firewall is drilled for engine mounting, its all getting sealed with Klass Kote 2 part epoxy zinc oxide color paint. It will be sealed up tight and fuel proof.





Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-31-2022 at 10:03 AM.
#1194

Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: cornish, utah
Posts: 67
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been away so long i forgot how to start a new post. please forgive me. i need landing gear guidance for a bud nosen p-51. . air-electric? thinking 14-18 lbs. used ok but were to buy. please help me obewon....dont know were to turn
#1198

New instrument panel kit for P-51 D20+ has been listed. The new instrument panel is designed according to NAA blueprints.
Here are pictures of the clear kit and ready made IP. As you can see, the kit includes the lower fuel and hydraulic control panel.
Here are pictures of the clear kit and ready made IP. As you can see, the kit includes the lower fuel and hydraulic control panel.