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New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc

Old 03-21-2019, 01:05 PM
  #1626  
CaptRKO
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Default MY 2nd P-51D H9 60cc....



Canopy Complete.....lot of time and effort, I actually built a second one in case this one gets destroyed or lost....I am a sucker for a sliding canopy. Wish H9 would have prebuilt this like Phoenix does in the 60cc Spitfire.


DLE-55RA with DLE-35 standoffs (perfect fit) also a Bennett Muffler (very slim) hoping that will help with heat issues.....Factory painted spinner...


Hoping this will work for cooling.....I have some baffle ideas but I think this should work.


All ready for Maiden.....engine tuned and one tank run though on ground.....hoping no issues with the E-Flite retracts. We will see what happens.
Old 03-21-2019, 01:09 PM
  #1627  
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
Make sure you put in a stop to preclude the canopy from sliding out once it is in the slot, Just in case you start it up with the canopy open. If you don't, you'll be looking for a new canopy cause the back lip breaks off when the canopy gets blown off. Re-glue all your hinges too.

I am going to "leave the stopper out" as I know what happens when you leave it open on start....I have started with full Choke and then I close the Choke and LOCK the canopy... IT will blow back either way....and with the stopper it will just damage stuff...so my thought is to leave it off and it will "fly free" if need be! I also built a 2nd canopy and have a complete canopy kit in my stash.... I had this happen on P-51D #1....and removing the stopper/screw made the damage minimal if you forget!
Old 03-21-2019, 01:33 PM
  #1628  
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When the canopy blows back, when left open, it slides all the way back past the slide stops and hinges on the guide pin. Then the back 1" of the painted canopy cracks off. Then you have a busted canopy. I also have a backup canopy. But I am living with the repaired one for now.

On the retracts, if you inadvertently retract while on the ground, the worm gear separates from the motor. Can't get just the motor/gear. Have to buy a whole new retract at $100+. PITA when you inadvertently hit the gear up switch when taxiing or just sitting there powered up. On all my other ETracts, the current limiter would have kicked in. Apparently, ... not on this one. Not to mention if you just let the gear complete the retraction, then its sitting on the inner doors. Got to be extra careful with this setup.
Old 03-23-2019, 11:29 AM
  #1629  
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
When the canopy blows back, when left open, it slides all the way back past the slide stops and hinges on the guide pin. Then the back 1" of the painted canopy cracks off. Then you have a busted canopy. I also have a backup canopy. But I am living with the repaired one for now.

On the retracts, if you inadvertently retract while on the ground, the worm gear separates from the motor. Can't get just the motor/gear. Have to buy a whole new retract at $100+. PITA when you inadvertently hit the gear up switch when taxiing or just sitting there powered up. On all my other ETracts, the current limiter would have kicked in. Apparently, ... not on this one. Not to mention if you just let the gear complete the retraction, then its sitting on the inner doors. Got to be extra careful with this setup.

Good to know on the Elite gear I will watch out for that..... I decided to omit the inner gear doors on a recommendation from a friend who works at Horizon...he also suggested adding a LIFe battery just for the gear so I did that. I am going to post my Maiden flight info/pic in the next comment.. Thanks for your input.
Old 03-23-2019, 11:43 AM
  #1630  
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I put three Spektrum 2000 mah 2S LiFe batteries in behind the firewall. Two for the PowerSafe Rxer and one for the gear. If I recall correctly, the gear controller can't handle 2S LiPo or maybe I just did not want to charge LiPos in the plane. Taking them out of the plane for charging would be a PITA. Three batteries and a DA 60 and still had to add a bit of weight in the nose.

Then I added ElectroDynamics' switches and use Andy's charge harnesses. I can just plug in and balance charge them in the plane. But, if you do not use Andy's batteries, you have to swap the leads in the JR connector so that the balance leads line up. Otherwise you fry the wires. Don't ask how I know.

I put the switches down in by the pilot's knees in the cockpit. I really have to look to find them. Also, I put in a manual choke in the cockpit also. Pull out the little handle and the choke is on.
Old 03-23-2019, 11:55 AM
  #1631  
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Default Maiden Flight day! AWESOME!!!

Today I got to maiden my H9 P-51D 60cc. The DLE-55RA is more than enough power and NO OVER HEATING issues with a Bennett muffler. EFLITE gear worked flawless--I believe in part to them having there own battery and omitting the inner gear doors. (to me it simplifies the up/down process) and during my 3 flights nobody even noticed the lack of inner gear doors.

Needed two clicks down trim, one click right AIL trim..... Futaba 18MZ
DLE-55RA-- order a set of DLE-35 standoffs and BOLT HER ON--no modifications needed...how simple is that?
Order a Bennett Muffler (rear muffler but very slim) no modification needed to firewall or engine box.
Elite gear appear to being working without issues--again hook them up to a switch and separate 6.6 2100mah LIFe battery I went and omitted the inner gear doors to simplify the gear UP/DOWN process and not have any issues with the gear doors (seems to like this setup and you save money on two less servos to buy) I may install them later.

Again this is my 2nd P-51D from Hangar 9...the first one was a DISASTER in every way I sold it and swore to never buy another Hangar 9 warbird!!!

But the craving for a Mustang in my 1/5 Scale fleet kept calling--- I ordered a TOPFLITE P-51 but the next shipment wasn't due in until April 2019. So I decided to order a Hangar 9 P-51D 60cc from Tower Hobbies (I have some coupons to use up etc) Tower took care of me, once I got the kit it was missing a rudder and some hardware--a simple call to customer service and they were replaced right away! I knew that going through this again I might be frustrated ---but I decided to take my time and think through the build and do the best I could to make her a quality airplane, I think I got it right this time!

The airframe appears to be in better quality and the fit/finish was much better! Maybe I was lucky?

ALSO ....I want to make this loud and clear "YOU STILL GET A COCKPIT KIT in the ARF BOX". you just can't buy it separately. If I didn't get one in the box I was going to return it .....but lets fix this RUMOR. YOU DO GET A COMPLETE COCKPIT KIT". Nuff said!

DLE-55RA with Bennett muffler, use DLE-35 Standoffs....bolt them on and move on! No baffle needed as you get plenty of cooling just make sure you have good exit flow.

I will be buying another P-51D 60cc soon to keep in my stash --as for all the work involved you do get ONE SWEET FLYING MUSTANG that looks like a MUSTANG! Check out the pics of the TOP FLITE next to her? Nuff said again!

Oh--yeah and the DLE-55RA is PLENTY OF POWER!


H9 P-51D 60cc....much more scale than the Top Flite version. However the Topflite goes together like butter! With the H9 you have some painful assembly but are rewarded with a great flying SCALE P-51D!


True to scale lines.....60cc P-51D Mustang by Hangar 9!
Old 03-23-2019, 12:00 PM
  #1632  
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
I put three Spektrum 2000 mah 2S LiFe batteries in behind the firewall. Two for the PowerSafe Rxer and one for the gear. If I recall correctly, the gear controller can't handle 2S LiPo or maybe I just did not want to charge LiPos in the plane. Taking them out of the plane for charging would be a PITA. Three batteries and a DA 60 and still had to add a bit of weight in the nose.

Then I added ElectroDynamics' switches and use Andy's charge harnesses. I can just plug in and balance charge them in the plane. But, if you do not use Andy's batteries, you have to swap the leads in the JR connector so that the balance leads line up. Otherwise you fry the wires. Don't ask how I know.

I put the switches down in by the pilot's knees in the cockpit. I really have to look to find them. Also, I put in a manual choke in the cockpit also. Pull out the little handle and the choke is on.
Len Todd

I used two spectrum LIFe 4000 MAH for my RX --on a Batt share from Smart Fly, also have a IBEC for ignition...then added a Hobbico LIFe 6.6 2100 MAH for the Gear system, all the batteries fit in the lower batt compartment (3). I also put the (3) switches under the instrument panel along with a manual choke--simple, easy, and hopefully lasts a long time!

She flies GREAT! DLE-55RA, 22x10 Zoar WWII prop....FUTABA 14 RX, LIFE Batts (3) Elite gear stock...
Old 03-23-2019, 12:37 PM
  #1633  
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Looks nice. They are fun to fly. I was working on getting my jets ready for the season. But, now you got me looking over at the 51.
Old 03-23-2019, 12:56 PM
  #1634  
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
Looks nice. They are fun to fly. I was working on getting my jets ready for the season. But, … now you got me looking over at the 51.

I only built this one as I was not wiling to wait for April on the TopFlite. I just adjusted my frustration level and knew I was in for some issues, none of which any came up. She looks so good compared to other 1/5 scale P-51D's. I am happy I gave it all another chance. I will buy another one if they go on sale....I have some spare parts building up for the long haul. Overall happy with the outcome..... Hopefully my posts help make someone life a little easier or help someone sitting on the fence about buying one. Seems to be a lot of mis information in this thread....especially about stand off lengths etc... again DLE-55RA just use DLE-35 standoffs and you are "bolt on" and the other myth was they no longer include a cockpit kit (which used to turn me off to buying another until I called a Horizon rep and asked him point blank) I hope they continue this kit for while--I think some improvements could be made a well as offering a different scheme and/or a ready to cover version. Happy Flying!!!

Last edited by CaptRKO; 03-23-2019 at 01:20 PM. Reason: kant spill wirth a darn
Old 03-23-2019, 01:32 PM
  #1635  
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Your covering looks a lot better than mine. Looks like they made some improvements. But a lot of the issues listed, I encountered. But, you are right, the plane got bad press. I think it started when they did not include the spinner and then put an outrageous price on it. Then, … the cockpit kit issue came up. From there it went all downhill.

Anyway, you probably re-glued the hinges by now. That one really caught me by surprise. Fortunately, when they came lose, I detected it before flying it.
Old 04-14-2019, 10:45 AM
  #1636  
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CaptRKO, who is Andy who has the Charge Harness?
Thanks, Hoyt
Old 04-14-2019, 01:13 PM
  #1637  
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Andy Low at ElectroDynamics. ElectroDynamics' On-line Store
Old 04-14-2019, 01:59 PM
  #1638  
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Capt RKO, I see you have the tank drop pylons on your Han 9 P-51D. Have you used them yet? I have them on my Han 9 P-51D. But when I tried to fly with the tanks on the tanks would release when I start to throttle up. They both release at the exact same time. I feel the engine vibration is causing them to release. Have you (or anyone else) had this problem? I am thinking of adding a little foam between the pylon and the tank to see if that changes anything.
Old 04-19-2019, 06:44 AM
  #1639  
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Originally Posted by Ralph White View Post
Capt RKO, I see you have the tank drop pylons on your Han 9 P-51D. Have you used them yet? I have them on my Han 9 P-51D. But when I tried to fly with the tanks on the tanks would release when I start to throttle up. They both release at the exact same time. I feel the engine vibration is causing them to release. Have you (or anyone else) had this problem? I am thinking of adding a little foam between the pylon and the tank to see if that changes anything.
Hi Ralph,


I just installed the mounts because it looks so scale and was easy to do......I have never seen them work very well so no drop tanks for me. How is yours holding up?
Old 04-22-2019, 08:01 PM
  #1640  
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Thanks for the reply CaptRKO. Guess I'll have to play around with the drop tanks to see what's going on that they drop off when I throttle up. I have 29 flights on my Han 9 P51D to date. I fly hard and a lot of full throttle. So far the airframe is holding up fine. The main problem I had is the upper cowl wood split after I added some lead weight to balance the plane. If you place the balance weights there you for sure need to fiberglass reinforce the inside of the upper cowl. The other thing I did not like was the ground handling due to the main structs no having enough forward rake to them. The plane would nose over very easily and the tail would bounce up and down when taxi-ing. I solved the problem when my son 3-d printed a pair of 1/4 shims. The plane now looks more scale and ground handling is perfect. No nose over tendency at all. Here's a picture of the shims.


Here you can see the difference in the struct angle (Very little).
Ralph
Old 04-22-2019, 08:11 PM
  #1641  
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By the way, I'm running a DLE 55 RA, 21 x 10 zoar prop. I like the extra rpm of the 21 x 10. I will switch to a 21 x 10 Mezilk carbon fiber which I like even better but don't use it except when I'm showing off. I have not tried a 22 x 10 Mezlik yet but plan to soon.
Ralph
Old 04-23-2019, 07:44 AM
  #1642  
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Originally Posted by Ralph White View Post
By the way, I'm running a DLE 55 RA, 21 x 10 zoar prop. I like the extra rpm of the 21 x 10. I will switch to a 21 x 10 Mezilk carbon fiber which I like even better but don't use it except when I'm showing off. I have not tried a 22 x 10 Mezlik yet but plan to soon.
Ralph

Good to know! Love the shims....don't need any yet. I added weight by using a SCUBA weight and zipped-tied to the standoffs.

More pics!!!
Old 04-23-2019, 07:06 PM
  #1643  
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I haven't taken many pictures of my Han 9 P-51. I did take a few of the cowl and baffling. I had an issue on my TF 51 with the carb taking in to hot of air and quitting after about 4 or 5 minutes. I decided on the Han 9 P-51 I was going to keep the carb intake away from the engine cooling air. In the following pictures you can see what I did. The 1/16th ply piece in front of engine is glued to the lower cowling. It is angled from the top of the cowl intake down to a 1/16" ply that is zip-tied to the stand-offs just above the muffler. The green 1/16" ply piece is glued at an angle to force the air out the outlet hole in bottom of cowl.
I flew the P-51 with this set up (cowl on of course) and the engine temp was right at 300 at full throttle. I then added the two side vent panels with all the holes in them and opened the cowl outlet hole a little more and cleaned up the cowl inlet hole a little. The engine temp went down to 260 at full throttle and a little less throttled back. Both days the outside temp was about 60 degrees. The engine ran perfect on three 8 minutes flights. This is my first baffling job and I'm very pleased how it came out.
NOTE: I have added a picture of the cowl in place and a front view which shows the 1/8" plywood I added to the nose ring to keep the nose ring from splitting.
By the way, I got tired of adding nose weight to balance where the manual said. Ended up with the balance about 3/8" behind the rear mark in the manual. It flies great at that CG.
Ralph






Last edited by Ralph White; 04-24-2019 at 04:59 PM.
Old 04-25-2019, 02:55 PM
  #1644  
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Ralph, Not sure why you have nose over issues. I'm have never seen one have that issue, we are all flying off of pavement. Your baffling should work well. Never had an issue with hot air in the carb, I have 100% of the air coming in the cowl hitting the fins and that is all I installed. 400 flights and still going strong with a DLE55RA. I use a APCT6 racing prop with a truturn spinner, it runs well.

I have had 6 of these motors and the only failure so far is the pickup cable. I also run Mejzlik 20-12 prop. Still not as fast of the APC, But I can hand flip it.
Old 04-25-2019, 07:45 PM
  #1645  
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Quist, I fly off grass and it is not real smooth this time of year. The hot air in the carb was on a Top Flite P-51. Top Flite P-51 has a much smaller engine compartment which may have been part of the problem.
Old 04-26-2019, 08:15 AM
  #1646  
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Originally Posted by Ralph White View Post
Quist, I fly off grass and it is not real smooth this time of year. The hot air in the carb was on a Top Flite P-51. Top Flite P-51 has a much smaller engine compartment which may have been part of the problem.
One difference on our cowls is that I put a lip at the front of my air outlet. 3/8" lip creates low pressure and helps pull air out of the cowl.
Old 04-26-2019, 09:41 PM
  #1647  
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The solution to the carb is to provide it cool air. The diaphragm stalls when the cowl air pressure is higher than the carbs pump pressure. So the fix is to solder a brass tube fitting to the pump cover where the small hole is and then attach a section of fuel tubing to it. Run the tube through the firewall to cool air and that will take care of the problem.
I’ve done this on a couple fully cowled DLE 35’s, 55 and now a 61.

As as for running at 300F, really? That’s way too hot. My engines run at idle 170F and about 200-210F at full power on the ground. They run cooler in flight with much more air flow. Generally you don’t want to run above 220F external temps. Your engine won’t last running like that, just my opinion.

If you can find them you should try aluminum velocity stacks to further cool the carb and help performance.
Old 04-26-2019, 10:08 PM
  #1648  
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This is my current quick project to swap engines in the TF Corsair, DLE 61. The velocity stack is from Vogelsang Aeroscale I think, its a generic part, a few shops carry it but its hard to find sometimes. I added the screen to prevent debris from falling/sucking into the intake.
Look at the carb and you will see what looks like an extra fuel fitting. Thats what I solder to the diaphragm cover to provide cool air.

Old 04-27-2019, 12:19 PM
  #1649  
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EFlite gear......

Had an issue at our local NASA Warbird event......

Cycled gear during the preflight and the LEFT one would not go down again! I tried UP/DOWN.....power off/power on.....recycle the gear....nadda! The LEFT gear would only make a small noise and stop! Went home and before I tore everything apart...I gave it one more shot...and what do you know? IT WORKED..... Of course this time I had the gear UP....and turned on power with the switch up....and this time one I commanded "down" the both came down and no more issues?

Anyone ever have or seen this?
Old 04-27-2019, 01:20 PM
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Had the exact same problem. No flights that day. Got home and repowered the plane and they worked. I think if you get that problem, all you need to do is remove all power and then repower the plane. Although, I can't prove that theory cause the gear has not repeated the problem. It is a PITA to have to cycle the gear, every time you power it. On my jets, with the LGC15, I can take that "failsafe" out of the program.

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