Flytoolow

My Feedback: (17)

I am in the process of starting my first fiberglass finish. It is going on a Yellow Aircraft Zero. I already purchased West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardner. I plan on using 3/4oz cloth and am not sure which method of applying I should use...
1. Standard mix, cloth down and pour mixture on it and use a card to distribute.
2. Standard mix and thinned, cloth down, use card to distribute, apply 3 coats (Greg H.'s process).
3. Standard mix on wing first cloth on top then brush a little more on and add peel ply to soak up the excess resin.


Let me know what you do and which choice sounds best.
Thank you.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I use a roller. Much much better than a card.. you get a better more even coat.
It's just like painting a wall.. simple and ends up very smooth.
you can use small foam rollers from the DYI stores..
No thinning and normally just two coats is enough.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

i use a roller too , with west . i usually go 5 or 6 to one on the mix . sometimes i thin it with denatured alk
, to apply the glass, one coat , then 1 more on top , than paint. some paints dont fill the weave good
so you have to put that second coat on before paint. i havent found anything as user friendly , as west
the resin is pricey but the hardner lasts a long time , YOU JUST HAVE TO WEAR A RESPIRATOR IN A
HIGHLY VENTALATED AREA.

Tony Gag Jr.

My Feedback: (124)

I have attempted lots of different glassing techniques and I think one is the easiest. Very simple with great results.

http://www.aero-accessories.com/P-47...-47Article.pdf

pkoury

My Feedback: (7)

I have been using the Dan Parson's method with great success. I use the West System epoxy cut 50 per cent with alcohol. Lay the cloth on the surface, smooth out any large wrinkles, start applying the epoxy in the center of the surface and work outwards. I use a 1 inch chip brush and just brush the epoxy/alcohol mixture on. The thin glass cloth will suck down to the balsa like a wet t shirt clings to your skin. Do not overwork the cloth, one or two strokes and then move on. You will be surprised at how well the thin resin will hold the cloth. After the entire model surface is covered I give a light sanding with 80 to 100 grit sandpaper. Next comes an application of a high build primer to fill the weave. Most of this primer will be block sanded off leaving a smooth surface ready for finishing. No need for multiple coats of resin, quick application with little chance of excess resin buildup.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Peel ply method is by far the quickest and provides the most consistent surface when done properly. It does cost more though as the required materials is a bit higher due to having to buy composite peel ply, but you save as well in the fact that you only have to apply one coat of resin and can glass an entire warbird in one weekend (sometimes quicker depending on the resin you are using).

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

+1 for inverts peel ply method! It was easy and works great!

Casey

thailazer

Can you guys recommend any suppliers that do small orders for peel ply?

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

[QUOTE=thailazer;11854665]Can you guys recommend any suppliers that do small orders for peel ply?[/QUOTE

You can use polyester cloth readily available at your local fabric store, or Wally World for a couple bucks a yard. Saw Invertmast's video a while back during his FW-190 build, tried it and haven't looked back since

ByronF

I use the same method as pkoury but I use pacer Zpoxy finishing resin. I then use a high solids primer to fill the weave and then wet sand off the excess. This gives you a very smooth base to start applying paint. There really is no benefit to adding more coats of resin as it just adds weight.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Go to any fabric store and ask for 100% polyester Dress lining fabric, you'll want it white. It'll be fairly tightly woven, somewhat shiney and have a smooth feel to it.