darod07

Follow CK1 advise for safety reason. I always run separate power supply for ignition and retracts. In my Zero i had 5 li-po's batteries: 2 x 1800mah for receiver; 1x1200mah ignition; 1x1200mah retracts; 1×800mah smoke pump.
.BTW, I already started assembling my 2nd Toprc Zero.... I always wanted to have grey cammo version but this is restricted to earlier versions: m2 and m3. So I decided this time to convert mine to a6m3 so called 'Hamp' version. I believe there is not so many flying rc models of this type that's why I have chosen that one. I had to make clipped wings and re-shape ailerons but finally it's done. A lot of party survived from my previous model so I transplanted them. Will share some pics soon

darod07

This is the model I'm gonna build:

and this are some pics documenting progress of recent job.I started from the wings, lot of rivets and micro-screws...:

RCU-RCaviator

Thanks for the suggestions, I will use a dedicated pack for the retracts and mount them as far forward as possible.

The work you guys do on these planes is incredible!

RCU-RCaviator

Hello Everyone,

I am looking for some matching spray paint for the Zero. I am not allowed to post a picture, but it is green with a blue cowl. I'm guessing it is custom scheme and not factory. (If this helps? Has Hokoku-535 on the side in Japanese, and "forged Forest" also in Japanese below that). But looking at the Tamiya colors, there are two different olive drab colors. Would either of these be a possible match? The blue on the cowl is dark, any guess on this one? I know this is about impossible without pictures, but on-line color match is also not very reliable. Just hoping there is a standard color for these.

Thanks!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

If you have an auto paint store they can scan, match and fill up a rattle can for you.

darod07

Exactly, this is what I did. For my 1st zero I took a piece of it to auto paint store. They scanned it and after 5 minutes I had exactly same green colour as on the model . For 2nd one I mixed some tamiya paint to match my idea of grey cammo, sprayed it on piece of plastic and took to auto paint store. Same for wheel bay "aotake" colour. It's much cheaper solution then using paints for modelers for such big model.

mackone

Looks Awesome Darod!

mackone

Hard to help without a picture, The cowl will be black, some artist like to have the blue of the sky in there blacks, and represent this with dark blue looking blacks.
the only image I could find of Hokoku-535 was the pale green/grey aircraft, so we are not looking at the same thing.

RCU-RCaviator

Thanks for all the replys. Did not think about an automotive paint store, will give that a try. I'm guessing that after the color application you would use a quality flat clear over the color. If so, are there any high quality non-yellowing clears out there?

The Zero cowl is a dark blue, not black at all. May not be a real scheme that was used on any FS Zero. I did find some models that were sold years ago that had a blue cowl when googling the other night. They called it an island defense plane. I'll post a picture of mine when I hit the 10 post restriction.

Thanks!

mackone

Ok I found a pic ...like this ?

darod07

They should give you high quality 2 compound clear varnish, will protect your model from accidental scratches and is also fuel proof.

As to the colors of zero, you opened pandora's box :
You are right, zero cowl was not black but black but blue-black as many researchers revealed. Unfortunately you can't tell 100% based on black and white pictures. Few original planes which survived the war were repainted or paint deterioration is so intense that it makes impossible to tell what was the original color.
Pics of zero profile you posted is pure author imagination.
Here is the link to the webside addresing color issues if anybody is interested: https://j-aircraft.com/research/colormix.htm

RCU-RCaviator

I can understand what you are saying. Never thought about their being no color pictures from the time, and few remaining Zero examples. I do find all of this interesting, WWII history is something I do enjoy learning about. However a long time ago, back in my school days I refused to learn about anything that happened in the past and flunked history class twice. LOL, now I am just the opposite.

Picture that mackone posted above is very close to the scheme my plane has.

Thanks for the info/insight!

RCU-RCaviator

I just weighed the zero with my fish scale. Came in at 40 pounds! This is with batteries, no fuel. Top RC web site has 27-29 pounds listed, I was expecting 30-32lbs. So there must be an issue with my scale. I will try the bathroom scale at some point to get a general idea of the correct weight.

A question about surface deflection. On my aerobatic planes I use triple rates, do warbirds typically use the same? I have the control surfaces set at what is listed in the manual. Thinking about adding rates of 75% and 50% for triple rates, thoughts?

Thanks!

RCU-RCaviator

Weighed the plane on the bathroom scale, 29lbs. This probably isn't the exact weight, but close enough to tell me that my fish scale isn't working correctly. So I am relieved to know that the weight is close to 30 and not 40lbs.

mackone

Good to hear its a bit lighter....
I found the factory throws were to high , I dialled them back quite a bit for scale flight. If your used to aerobatic flying the factory throws are ok for your maiden. Your rates idea is a good one.
cheers
Pete

RCU-RCaviator

I was able to get a couple flights on the plane after work today. This being my first warbird I was a little nervous, but the flights went well. I would like to know if you check the CoG in flight like you do an aerobatic plane? (Full throttle, pull to a 45 degree up-line, roll inverted, and plane should hold the line for a bit and then gradually pull to the canopy.) Reason I am asking about the CoG is because I had to trim in quite a bit of down elevator.

Thanks!

mackone

Well done RCU
Yes you can do the inflight COG in flight like you said.
I think the down elevator is a common thing with this airframe from memory.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

Not uncommon to need a bunch of down trim on this ARF. They don't always get the incidence of the stab correct, it's not usually related to the CoG. Doesn't matter, they typically fly without trim differences through the throttle range. With a low wing Warbird if you fly inverted you should have to hold some down elevator. CoG is more important during landing, where too far forward will cause the plane to drop without enough elevator control to arrest it. To far back and it will be pitchy and can stall out if you push too much elevator.

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Ready to go, just need some decent weather.

RCU-RCaviator

Thanks for the responses! The zero seamed to be fairly easy to land, so maybe the balance is good. I'll get some flight time on it and get more comfortable before changing anything.

Very nice looking Zeros in the posts above!

Thanks again.

darod07

Nice looking Zero. Post some pictures from the flight once done.

darod07

Hi guys.
Few pics of my model which got new livery. I wish to paint blue fuselage stripe as many profiles of this plane showing but as per recent research it was black...Cockpit and engine to be fitted and will be ready to fly.







below is bw comparizon to the original remainings of this plane. Now I have to make holes and cut out part of fuselage in diagonal stripe part to be historical acurate

darod07

After applying of 2 compound varnish:

mackone

Look's so good Darod !! perfection

mackone

I flew my new one this morning , needed some down trim and a touch of right aileron. Now I'm going to paint it , just like my old one.