TOPRC/GatorRC P-51 Mustang 89"
#351

Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: , IL
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

I used much of the stock hardware, although I could see the flap linkage pulling loose if the flaps were dropped at higher speed. That is another reason I chose to use the internal linkage, no mods are needed and it's a stronger set up, pushing is better than pulling.
You need the aluminum servo brackets, unless they changed the internal wing structure, I'm guessing they forgot to include them in your kit.

This is one of my aileron servos, does your wing have the ply tabs in the servo bays? If so you need the brackets, you could make them, I have many in my parts bin left over from other projects.
You need the aluminum servo brackets, unless they changed the internal wing structure, I'm guessing they forgot to include them in your kit.
This is one of my aileron servos, does your wing have the ply tabs in the servo bays? If so you need the brackets, you could make them, I have many in my parts bin left over from other projects.
What if I epoxy bracket to servo door? I could even put a craft stick/popsicle stick between the bracket and servo door. Yeah, talked myself into doing that.
Last edited by benjack71; 07-25-2018 at 06:46 PM.
#355

My Feedback: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 7,662
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
19 Posts

I have the mortal remains of a crashed Top RC P-51 that I was going to rebuild but have changed my mind. Before tossing it into the trash I though I would see if anyone needs any spare parts. The rudder is good, both horizontal stabs and elevators are good, the canopy and hatch are in good shape although the cockpit detail took some damage (fixable). I think the inner clam shell gear doors are good as well as the spinner, which is not bent up at all but does have a few scratches/gouges from hitting the gravel. Just FYI, the airplane was repainted into a camo scheme so the parts no longer have the factory finish. Anyway, just thought I would throw this out here before hauling the mortal remains off to the dump.
Chad Veich
[email protected]
Chad Veich
[email protected]
#357

My Feedback: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 7,662
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
19 Posts

Wasn't my bird Sonny! It was a friend's and he gave me the mortal remains as I was considering a rebuild bit it's too far gone for economical repair and I have too many projects on the shelf anyway. Somebody else has already contacted me about the canopy/hatch as well as the inner gear doors and the spinner I'm afraid. If he decides he does not want the parts I will be sure to let you know but, at this point, I am pretty sure he is going to take them.
#359

Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: , IL
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Anyone else build with the torqpro 70cc? Mine has came out really really nose heavy. Guess its freaking me out some because i used the Giant Scale EZ Balancer for the cg and i was up to 24 oz of weight in the tail before it balanced. (Not actually installed weight, just placed on the fuse to get an idea). Dont get me wrong a little on the nose heavy side is fine by me and how i would prefer it to be, but I can only think of one war bird i ever put any tail weight on and that was a FMS Zero foam plane. I adjusted my flight packs around but not enough weight to really do anything.
#360


Went through the thread and maybe I missed it but what all up weights are people getting on this model?
Looks pretty interesting for the price.
Regards,
Looks pretty interesting for the price.
Regards,
#361

My Feedback: (23)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bedford, TX
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Hi Benjack,
I had a Torqpro-70 in my mustang and ended up replacing it with a DLE-55RA for 2-reasons.
#1 - Idle and midrange operation tended to be unreliable and the plane suffered a couple badly positioned dead stick landings. Luckily the plane didn't suffer any damage during the deadsticks, but I could have very easily torn up the plane due to an engine out situation.
#2 - The Torqpro-70 vibrates A LOT (compared to a DLE-55), and I believe eventually there would have been structural issues with the airframe.
The DLE-55RA provides the Stang with plenty of power for me.
Hope this helps,
Sonny
I had a Torqpro-70 in my mustang and ended up replacing it with a DLE-55RA for 2-reasons.
#1 - Idle and midrange operation tended to be unreliable and the plane suffered a couple badly positioned dead stick landings. Luckily the plane didn't suffer any damage during the deadsticks, but I could have very easily torn up the plane due to an engine out situation.
#2 - The Torqpro-70 vibrates A LOT (compared to a DLE-55), and I believe eventually there would have been structural issues with the airframe.
The DLE-55RA provides the Stang with plenty of power for me.
Hope this helps,
Sonny
#363

My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

I was planning on using a DLE 55 that I had laying around but decided against it because it would require me putting holes in the side of the cowl for the muffler. I ordered a DLE55 RA so I can keep the cowl clean.
#364

Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: , IL
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Hi Benjack,
I had a Torqpro-70 in my mustang and ended up replacing it with a DLE-55RA for 2-reasons.
#1 - Idle and midrange operation tended to be unreliable and the plane suffered a couple badly positioned dead stick landings. Luckily the plane didn't suffer any damage during the deadsticks, but I could have very easily torn up the plane due to an engine out situation.
#2 - The Torqpro-70 vibrates A LOT (compared to a DLE-55), and I believe eventually there would have been structural issues with the airframe.
The DLE-55RA provides the Stang with plenty of power for me.
Hope this helps,
Sonny
I had a Torqpro-70 in my mustang and ended up replacing it with a DLE-55RA for 2-reasons.
#1 - Idle and midrange operation tended to be unreliable and the plane suffered a couple badly positioned dead stick landings. Luckily the plane didn't suffer any damage during the deadsticks, but I could have very easily torn up the plane due to an engine out situation.
#2 - The Torqpro-70 vibrates A LOT (compared to a DLE-55), and I believe eventually there would have been structural issues with the airframe.
The DLE-55RA provides the Stang with plenty of power for me.
Hope this helps,
Sonny
#365

My Feedback: (2)

I bought mine about a month ago. The new ones are comming with no color scheme, They are painted all silver. I wanted to do my own color scheme anyway so no big deal. On a positive note the fiberglass extereer is excelent and worth the extra time to correct the problems.. In my club three members have the same plane. They all have the same problems. Wings are loose and the supporting structure falls apart. I asked Mike about that and he said it is mostly due to not balancing the spinner and back plate. One of my club members fiberglassed all the internal joints with the exception of the canopy. It was fine except for the canopy latch leting go and it blew off. The other issue is the geometry on the main doors.
I have a cargo trailer for my planes but I wanted to be able to transport mine in my SUV to take it to Joe Nall while towing my camper. I made the rudder removeable to fit. I will be using an RCGF 60 CC rear exhaust engine with Sierra pneumatic mains and scale tail gear. Yes Darrell is making gear for this plane.
The wing tubes are a sloppy fit the and the aluminum brackets use 5 mm socket head screws that were not tight. There was no tread locking compound used. I added an access hole in bottom of the fuselage and unscrewed all four screws and then used medium locktite on them before socking them down. I then wrapped the large wing tubes with one layer of 0.0007” thick polyethylene sheet (from home depot) used west system epoxy with a thickening agent and coated the inside of the fuselage tube. Then slid the wing tube and plastic sheeting in and let it cure. This is risky but my tube came out OK and the fit is perfect now. I fiberglassed all of the joints with a layer of glass cloth and west system epoxy.
The spinner if very heavy and way out of balance. I had planned to balance the back plate and spinner separately but every time I mounted them together it changed. I ended up balancing them together with a keying mark so I can align them.
Right now my cowl is cut only for the exhaust openings. I am looking for advice on the best engine cutout for cooling.

Access holes for wing tube brackets

Fiberglass on internal structure


Engine Install

I needed to shorten the engine mounting posts

and cut out the back plate for the carb

Unusual tail gear

I needed to get creative on push push steering setup and servo operated doors
I have a cargo trailer for my planes but I wanted to be able to transport mine in my SUV to take it to Joe Nall while towing my camper. I made the rudder removeable to fit. I will be using an RCGF 60 CC rear exhaust engine with Sierra pneumatic mains and scale tail gear. Yes Darrell is making gear for this plane.
The wing tubes are a sloppy fit the and the aluminum brackets use 5 mm socket head screws that were not tight. There was no tread locking compound used. I added an access hole in bottom of the fuselage and unscrewed all four screws and then used medium locktite on them before socking them down. I then wrapped the large wing tubes with one layer of 0.0007” thick polyethylene sheet (from home depot) used west system epoxy with a thickening agent and coated the inside of the fuselage tube. Then slid the wing tube and plastic sheeting in and let it cure. This is risky but my tube came out OK and the fit is perfect now. I fiberglassed all of the joints with a layer of glass cloth and west system epoxy.
The spinner if very heavy and way out of balance. I had planned to balance the back plate and spinner separately but every time I mounted them together it changed. I ended up balancing them together with a keying mark so I can align them.
Right now my cowl is cut only for the exhaust openings. I am looking for advice on the best engine cutout for cooling.

Access holes for wing tube brackets

Fiberglass on internal structure


Engine Install

I needed to shorten the engine mounting posts

and cut out the back plate for the carb

Unusual tail gear

I needed to get creative on push push steering setup and servo operated doors
#367

My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

I'm a little confused on where the CG should be. If it is 170mm from where the wing meets the fuselage that puts it about 2/3rds the way back on the main gear doors. But the manual looks like it should be farther back, between the main gear doors and the belly scoop, which is about 170mm back from the front of the main gear doors and not the wing root. Any clarification would be appreciated.