TOPRC/GatorRC P-51 Mustang 89"
09-20-2016, 07:03 AM
#101
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My fried retract motor has been replaced and I've figured out the Assan gear door sequencer. I put the two main gear doors and the retractable tailwheel on the Assan sequencer and got the timing sequences set. I now have a spare retract motor just in case (bought 2). They cost just under $30.00, but well worth having an extra motor.
The only thing I really dislike about the Assan sequencer is you apparently have to arm it every time you want to fly by switching the transmitter retract switch 4-times. Really? Is there a way around this arming sequence for the Assan device? I know I'll forget and lower the gear without arming the gear door sequencer. An accident in the making.
Sonny
The only thing I really dislike about the Assan sequencer is you apparently have to arm it every time you want to fly by switching the transmitter retract switch 4-times. Really? Is there a way around this arming sequence for the Assan device? I know I'll forget and lower the gear without arming the gear door sequencer. An accident in the making.
Sonny
10-04-2016, 05:52 AM
#104
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Hi AC2,
Did you have to modify the firewall to fit the TorqPro 70?
How much of the cowling had to be cut out?
Any cooling issues noted?
I like the sound of the TorqPro 70 compared to the DLE 55, but I don't want to get into any major airframe surgery if possible.
Thanks!
Sonny
[h=1][/h]
Did you have to modify the firewall to fit the TorqPro 70?
How much of the cowling had to be cut out?
Any cooling issues noted?
I like the sound of the TorqPro 70 compared to the DLE 55, but I don't want to get into any major airframe surgery if possible.
Thanks!
Sonny
[h=1][/h]
10-04-2016, 07:29 AM
#105
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Sonny,
Hi, honestly everything has been sitting in boxes until im ready to start putting it all together...so nothing has been fitted yet. Been working on two other projects first. My 4blade spinner arrived last week which was a nice option not having to cut it.
Btw, I am not willing to make any cuts to the cowling sides and any cuts I make on bottom will be minimal. I do not anticipate any major modifications to the airframe and a 4stroke is a must have so if I run into any major issues I would just buy another engine that fit better. Give me a few days and I'll try and pull everything out and do a rough fit and post a couple pictures just to give you a better idea of what to expect.
Hi, honestly everything has been sitting in boxes until im ready to start putting it all together...so nothing has been fitted yet. Been working on two other projects first. My 4blade spinner arrived last week which was a nice option not having to cut it.
Btw, I am not willing to make any cuts to the cowling sides and any cuts I make on bottom will be minimal. I do not anticipate any major modifications to the airframe and a 4stroke is a must have so if I run into any major issues I would just buy another engine that fit better. Give me a few days and I'll try and pull everything out and do a rough fit and post a couple pictures just to give you a better idea of what to expect.
10-04-2016, 11:18 AM
#106
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AC2,
Thanks for the quick reply. I have a DLE55 RA laying around needing a plane to belong to, but I'd rather go with something different like the TorqPro if possible.
I've got several items still to go on the Mustang before I plan on fitting an engine. Right now the tail wheel doors are giving me some serious heartburn. If the hole cut for the tail wheel retracts was not cut so large I just leave out the doors and call it even.
Sonny
Thanks for the quick reply. I have a DLE55 RA laying around needing a plane to belong to, but I'd rather go with something different like the TorqPro if possible.
I've got several items still to go on the Mustang before I plan on fitting an engine. Right now the tail wheel doors are giving me some serious heartburn. If the hole cut for the tail wheel retracts was not cut so large I just leave out the doors and call it even.
Sonny
10-06-2016, 05:47 PM
#108
Originally Posted by AC2
Guys where do I find a 22x10 Biela 4 blade Mustang prop? I checked TBM and big planes but no luck.
10-06-2016, 05:57 PM
#110
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Originally Posted by Sonny.C
AC2,
Thanks for the quick reply. I have a DLE55 RA laying around needing a plane to belong to, but I'd rather go with something different like the TorqPro if possible.
I've got several items still to go on the Mustang before I plan on fitting an engine. Right now the tail wheel doors are giving me some serious heartburn. If the hole cut for the tail wheel retracts was not cut so large I just leave out the doors and call it even.
Sonny
Thanks for the quick reply. I have a DLE55 RA laying around needing a plane to belong to, but I'd rather go with something different like the TorqPro if possible.
I've got several items still to go on the Mustang before I plan on fitting an engine. Right now the tail wheel doors are giving me some serious heartburn. If the hole cut for the tail wheel retracts was not cut so large I just leave out the doors and call it even.
Sonny
Sonny, I will have that picture for you Sat at the latest, maybe tomorrow....
10-08-2016, 12:29 PM
#112
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Sony,
As suspected, no major issues with fit of TP70. The engine comes with two sets of standoffs. I will use the shorter of the two. The math ends up almost perfect factoring in a small amount of clearance for the spinner.
As suspected, no major issues with fit of TP70. The engine comes with two sets of standoffs. I will use the shorter of the two. The math ends up almost perfect factoring in a small amount of clearance for the spinner.
10-08-2016, 12:33 PM
#113
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Its hard for you to gauge by the angles in the pics but there will be a small amount to cut to clear the valve cover on the bottom and the carb tucks underneath the motorbox inside the cowl perfectly. I am doing mods to my muffler to exit the scale location but that's another topic. If I didn't know better I would think the plane was built to use this engine.
If you need to see anything else let me know asap because I will be putting everything away in my storage spot....
If you need to see anything else let me know asap because I will be putting everything away in my storage spot....
Last edited by AC2; 10-08-2016 at 12:43 PM.
10-09-2016, 07:28 AM
#114
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AC2, thank you for the detailed info on the TorqPro 70 engine fit and the photos too. They made up my mind on what engine to install. Are you going with the straight pipe into the scale location or the pipe with a muffler. I've read the engine is a bit noisy without a muffler/canister.
That's really good news that the engine fits in the cowling so well and the motor length being good with the short stand-offs. Last I looked the east coast Hobby King had a TP70 in stock. WooHoo!
Time to pull the trigger on the engine purchase.
Man, those tailwheel door linkages are a bugger bear and are still eating my lunch getting them adjusted to open and close properly without binding. I thought the inner doors would be the tougher of the door installs, but the inner doors were a piece of cake because there's plenty of room to make linkage adjustments.
Thanks Again!
Sonny
That's really good news that the engine fits in the cowling so well and the motor length being good with the short stand-offs. Last I looked the east coast Hobby King had a TP70 in stock. WooHoo!
Time to pull the trigger on the engine purchase.
Man, those tailwheel door linkages are a bugger bear and are still eating my lunch getting them adjusted to open and close properly without binding. I thought the inner doors would be the tougher of the door installs, but the inner doors were a piece of cake because there's plenty of room to make linkage adjustments.
Thanks Again!
Sonny
10-10-2016, 04:21 AM
#117
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Hi AC2,
I had planned on using a micro servo for the tail wheel retracts/gear doors as well, but not enough umph to open or close so I went with a Hitec mini servo and still there were times when the doors hung either half open or stuck closed. Then I went with a full sized servo (Hitec 5645) for a brute force attack on the doors and they now work ok. I wished the plane had pneumatic gear. I really do not like the electrics much.
My TorqPro 70 is ordered and should be heading to Texas today or tomorrow.
Thanks!
Sonny
I had planned on using a micro servo for the tail wheel retracts/gear doors as well, but not enough umph to open or close so I went with a Hitec mini servo and still there were times when the doors hung either half open or stuck closed. Then I went with a full sized servo (Hitec 5645) for a brute force attack on the doors and they now work ok. I wished the plane had pneumatic gear. I really do not like the electrics much.
My TorqPro 70 is ordered and should be heading to Texas today or tomorrow.
Thanks!
Sonny
10-10-2016, 06:04 AM
#118
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Not enough oomph to open the doors alone? That seems awfully strange that they would not open the doors.
Your gonna like that TP70. I havnt started mine yet but from what I have seen and heard abouth it so far.... and the quality of the way the motor feels in the hands...it looks/feels top notch.
Your gonna like that TP70. I havnt started mine yet but from what I have seen and heard abouth it so far.... and the quality of the way the motor feels in the hands...it looks/feels top notch.
Last edited by AC2; 10-10-2016 at 06:08 AM.
10-10-2016, 06:45 AM
#120
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AC2,
The tail wheel servo has to both raise and lower the retract assembly and open/close the doors . The retract mechanism its self is a bit sloppy as far as side-to-side play with all the parts and pieces, but built sturdy (looking). I found the linkage geometry for the tailwheel doors a bit time consuming to figure out because the linkage is not a straight up/down action. Due to the length and travel of the retract bracket (and the lesser travel of the tail wheel doors) the linkage has to swivel. You will see this when you hook-up the tail wheel assembly to the doors on your mustang.
You very well may find (I hope) a slick way to hook up the linkage and make the tailwheel retract and gear doors work with the micro servo. If you do please share your ideas (with pics) so I can see what I'm doing wrong with my plane.
Thanks bud,
Sonny
The tail wheel servo has to both raise and lower the retract assembly and open/close the doors . The retract mechanism its self is a bit sloppy as far as side-to-side play with all the parts and pieces, but built sturdy (looking). I found the linkage geometry for the tailwheel doors a bit time consuming to figure out because the linkage is not a straight up/down action. Due to the length and travel of the retract bracket (and the lesser travel of the tail wheel doors) the linkage has to swivel. You will see this when you hook-up the tail wheel assembly to the doors on your mustang.
You very well may find (I hope) a slick way to hook up the linkage and make the tailwheel retract and gear doors work with the micro servo. If you do please share your ideas (with pics) so I can see what I'm doing wrong with my plane.
Thanks bud,
Sonny
11-17-2016, 04:27 PM
#121
I'm back on this project after setting it aside to finish my TF Zero.
Of course mine must be different, so I did some research on the unit markings and I was really impressed. Also the original artist repainted all of his nose art back in 94, so I chose "My Achin'Back"
I did the nose art in two parts, first I separated the lady, so words, background would be on one sheet. The lady was printed on white water slide decal paper, the words and background on clear decal paper. I still need to print the "155" for the tail and the "D" for the fuselage.
You must use Micro Set and Micro Sol to apply clear decals, otherwise you will see air underneath.
I used black mixed with silver (model Masters) for the weathering. Went over the panel lines with a pencil. Model Master Aluminum is a good match for this plane. I did strip the original nose art off with PPG paint thinner because it was a bit thick and would show through the paint.
Of course mine must be different, so I did some research on the unit markings and I was really impressed. Also the original artist repainted all of his nose art back in 94, so I chose "My Achin'Back"
I did the nose art in two parts, first I separated the lady, so words, background would be on one sheet. The lady was printed on white water slide decal paper, the words and background on clear decal paper. I still need to print the "155" for the tail and the "D" for the fuselage.
You must use Micro Set and Micro Sol to apply clear decals, otherwise you will see air underneath.
I used black mixed with silver (model Masters) for the weathering. Went over the panel lines with a pencil. Model Master Aluminum is a good match for this plane. I did strip the original nose art off with PPG paint thinner because it was a bit thick and would show through the paint.
11-19-2016, 02:00 PM
#123
My Feedback: (66)
Originally Posted by dionysusbacchus
I'm back on this project after setting it aside to finish my TF Zero.
Of course mine must be different, so I did some research on the unit markings and I was really impressed. Also the original artist repainted all of his nose art back in 94, so I chose "My Achin'Back"
I did the nose art in two parts, first I separated the lady, so words, background would be on one sheet. The lady was printed on white water slide decal paper, the words and background on clear decal paper. I still need to print the "155" for the tail and the "D" for the fuselage.
You must use Micro Set and Micro Sol to apply clear decals, otherwise you will see air underneath.
I used black mixed with silver (model Masters) for the weathering. Went over the panel lines with a pencil. Model Master Aluminum is a good match for this plane. I did strip the original nose art off with PPG paint thinner because it was a bit thick and would show through the paint.
Of course mine must be different, so I did some research on the unit markings and I was really impressed. Also the original artist repainted all of his nose art back in 94, so I chose "My Achin'Back"
I did the nose art in two parts, first I separated the lady, so words, background would be on one sheet. The lady was printed on white water slide decal paper, the words and background on clear decal paper. I still need to print the "155" for the tail and the "D" for the fuselage.
You must use Micro Set and Micro Sol to apply clear decals, otherwise you will see air underneath.
I used black mixed with silver (model Masters) for the weathering. Went over the panel lines with a pencil. Model Master Aluminum is a good match for this plane. I did strip the original nose art off with PPG paint thinner because it was a bit thick and would show through the paint.
Great looking decals, I read all the posts and was convinced to invest in this model. On top, I had a deal from Tower Hobbies whereby by adding $50 worth of merchandise for a total of $1049 purchase, they gave me a $168 off coupon and free shipping - there was no way I could resist that!
Delivery is scheduled for early January so in the meanwhile I will purchase the electric retracts from Gator RC.
I plan to recover the model in real aluminum and finish it in the colors of "Hubert" - I had a foamy one from FMS and it looked great in the air.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t#post35486309
Josh
11-20-2016, 04:35 AM
#125
Hi N99JH
I'm getting some informations about new paint scheme of Topmadel's P-51 from FaceBook site of Henry He who is sales maneger of TopModel.
They've already available two kind of new paint scheme of Gunfighter and Oldcrow.
I think that the best way to purchase this one is contact direct via e-mail [email protected]
And you must visit his FaceBook site, you'll get many informations of Topmadel's P51.
Many thanks.
Last edited by US1A kai; 11-20-2016 at 05:15 AM.
