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New CARF P-51D Project

Old 08-20-2019, 01:39 PM
  #126  
Chris Nicastro
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After some time away on other projects for my friend I’m back on the Mustang!
More photos coming soon.

Update
I had to redo the tail gear installation and rethink the radio and equipment location. That was a set back but it will be the right way to go forward. The Sierra gear was originally mounted to optimize the space ahead of the gear so I could get the radio and equipment in a good location far aft for CG help.
This proved to be a problem for two reasons. The tail was too low to the ground and the the gear was going to be a problem to set up for steering. Instead I installed a plywood plate just behind the radiator exhaust and mounted the gear there with countersink hex screws from the outside of the fuse. They will blend in and be painted over with the invasion stripes later.
Now the tail is as high as possible and more scale like, done.
Tail gear steering servo is now located in front of the bulkhead I installed before with pull pull cables, done.

Installed the air duct and the radiator door, done.

Now that leaves the big hatch I cut out of the tail. I located the gear door cylinders with plywood mounts and epoxied them to the fuse. When you need to take off the tail hatch you pop the door ball links and the hatch with doors comes off complete, done.

Installed two small bulkheads to reduce fuselage twist in the tail area ahead of the stab, done. It spans the carbon fiber stringers I installed before so this helps box the section and stabilize it.

Made canopy rails from extruded rectangular brass. One of those details I like about the Mustang are the distinct canopy rails. A model this big should have them too so I patterned them after the real parts. Not a lot of documentation on these so I had to go through a lot of magazines and books to get a decent side view. These are not done yet but the very close to being finished and mounted.

The instrument panel hood has some distinct features like ribs and an edge pad. I added those to the hood as well, done. These were made with bass wood and evercoat body filler, very fine stuff.

Cockpit floor and scale battery/radio tray are next. The plan is to have the Rx/Regulator and UP2 on a panel behind and below the battery/radio tray. More on this later.

The Pilot aluminum fuel cap was installed in the scale position behind the pilot on the left side, done.
Old 08-22-2019, 01:52 PM
  #127  
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New pics...




Old 08-22-2019, 01:56 PM
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More pics...

Old 09-18-2019, 01:58 AM
  #129  
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Default Wings Progress

Been making progress on the wings so far...

Air tanks installed
Flap and aileron servos and linkages all checked and finalized, extensions made
Landing gear and air lines with restrictors installed

The gear doors.... let me just say that on this kit these are probably the biggest issue Iíve run into so far. I have sliced and trimmed and twisted and manipulated these parts to get them to fit nicely to the wing. The position relative to the gear is off so you just have to make them work. The outer door is the toughest one to install. The stock pivot with the aluminum tubing was not compatible with the retract gear so I had to cut that out and make my own. Once the gear is in you have to figure out the door pivot geometry with zero reference. Iím at the drag linkages next now that the door is installed in the left wing. More on that later once I figure out the relationship between the gear and the door and the wing.

The clamshell door air cylinder location was also a tough one because of the tight fit. I wanted a more scale position but since the giant wing tube is in from of the wing spar it interferes with the location of the air cylinder. I had to compromise. I used a Robart 5/8 dis. medium sized air cylinder but I had to make an internal stroke limiter. I used brass tubing cut to about 27mm to remove the excess travel internally. This way I didnít reduce the internal volume too much. Now the doors will have nice large and powerful air cylinders to keep the big







doors from opening in flight.
Old 09-18-2019, 02:08 AM
  #130  
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Default Gear check

Standing on its own gear for the first time I checked the mains to see if I got it right. So far everything looks great! The wheels are in the right position from the side and they are square to the ground. They are slightly forward by a quarter inch maybe if anything but thatís fine because the plane will handle better and resist nose overs a little better.

The tail retract compression spring is totally inadequate. Iím going to see about replacing that with a harder spring Iím just concerned about it being too stiff and bouncy.

Old 09-19-2019, 11:36 PM
  #131  
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This is what you get with the stock kit...
You have to slice the sides of the doors and set the skin by twisting it while itís gluing. So far 3 out of the 4 require this.
Also note the clump of epoxy and aluminum tube the stock hinge is made up of and see it doesnít fit with the recommended retracts.










Old 09-20-2019, 02:30 AM
  #132  
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Hi Chris, that is the project you need the exhaust stacks?
Old 09-20-2019, 09:37 AM
  #133  
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Yes this is the one. Also the radio and battery cockpit details. I’ll order them soon.
Old 09-20-2019, 09:51 AM
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Good.
The package is still ready to ship.
Old 10-08-2019, 03:52 AM
  #135  
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Good choice of engine :-)

Go on!
Old 06-11-2020, 08:52 PM
  #136  
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And... we’re back!
After a long break I’m back on this beast.
I’ll begin with the wings. What I did to improve the stance and stability of the plane is also the thing I’m fighting when it comes to door hinge angles. The stock ARF door hinges are poor to begin with. I’ve torn them out a while ago but look at the photos from last September up above here. They are simply aluminum tubes epoxied with globs of micro balloons and somehow aligned. Because I relocated the extracts about 10mm forward of the original position I had to remove the strut door hinges. Then I had to make new low profile stronger hinges. The gear is as far forward as I could get it and the axle position is pretty much in the correct scale location within about 1/4 inch. When you watch videos of this plane taxiing on grass you see how unstable it is because the axles are too far back. It wants to tip the nose down especially with this much weight, Kolm 150 3cyl, in the nose. I’m really looking forward to seeing how this plane tracks with this modification.

On the doors...
Learned a few things so I’ll share my notes;
Outer doors, you must align the door hinge pin from the top view (actually the bottom of the wing looking at the retract) It has to be parallel to the retract pivot axis. The door on my build is not aligned to the strut, they are not parallel, but the hinges have to be in order for them to move together correctly. From the side view, the door hinge will be set by a couple of relationships. The door relative to the wheel rim when open for the best scale look so that’s a for/aft alignment. Second is the door closed so it is even with the wing when closed and seated. This will set the pin axis in the best location so the door moves well with the retract.
I used Dubro 2-56 for 4-40 and 4-40 for 4-40 swivel links with a cut 1 inch 4-40 screw. The stock Sierra Retract drag links look great but they are fixed, no pivot action, and will not work for me.
The collar on the strut can be adjusted and I took a look at the full scale links to get an idea of how them move. The basic position works for the model as well. The links are angled down. The pivot location on the doors are basically aligned with the lower cross rib detail molded in the door. Just picked a decent looking location and worked with it.
The new hinge is built with brass tube, hard wood, epoxy and fiberglass. I made a small wood wedge and tweaked it until the angles worked and CA glued the brass tube so it wasn’t permanent. I made a small frame work from plywood to anchor the hinge pin to the wing panel.
The gear door mount on the wing panel is tricky because you have to allow the pin some room to be moved. In my case I have a very tight space at the front of the wing to work with. I used a brass servo grommet to work as a bushing and it’s glued in the plywood rib. Taking advantage of the grommet I drilled the hole and filed it as a slot to give me the ability to move the hinge pin around.
This part has been tedious and time consuming!
The outer doors...
The hinges are more of the same so I removed them. The problem with the inner door hinges is simple but challenging. The hinge center line is basically on the skin of the door and next to the edge in order for it to work right. The real door hinges are very small and riveted to the door skin. To make something like this work on the model I used the largest Robart pin hinges and put them in the same basic position. If the hinge pivot center is in a different location you will have a huge gap between the door edge and the wing center rib. The full scale plane has large panel gaps in the same location for the same reasons.

Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 06-11-2020 at 08:59 PM.
Old 06-11-2020, 08:56 PM
  #137  
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Added a short rib up front to support the wing skin because it can flex a lot with little effort. I was thinking of reports of guys having the inner doors open in flight so I believe this could be a factor. When the skin flexes inward it allows air right into the wheel well.









Old 07-04-2020, 03:09 AM
  #138  
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Looks good Chris. Keep the posts coming.
Old 07-05-2020, 09:57 PM
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Thanks Craig will do!
I have the doors in primer now and the left wing pylon is installed. The wings are pretty much done and have their quick connect air fittings. I’ve been scuffing and spot repairing the wings and primer is next up.
I learned an interesting detail. Many of the full scale Mustangs I’ve seen in photos have the inner doors painted green in Europe. The Mustangs in the US have silver doors except one. Reading up on some of the history there is no official reason for this. The band you see in the middle of the door is a steel and serves to allow the gear to blow down and push the door open in an emergency. The factories and crews in the field painted the doors with a silver lacquer or a green zinc chromate. There are at least 3 official versions of zinc chromate from the bright lime to the darker green.
Since either color is correct I’m going to paint the doors green zinc to help with the finishing because silver shows every flaw. The wheel bays will get a flat black first then a green zinc.

More soon, I’m working on it!
Old 07-05-2020, 10:04 PM
  #140  
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Hey Chris,

In the pic above, are you going to put a thin plywood plate under your door ram mount?
Old 07-07-2020, 04:39 PM
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Yes there is a 1/8 ply plate on the skin side. The foam will be reinforced with resin so there’s no compression. The Robart cylinder has a brass tube limiter in it so the length and stroke are set. I used the bigger cylinder for more air volume and strength.
Old 07-08-2020, 04:26 PM
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So in a moment of OCD I gave in to adding detail on the left wing before I looked over at the right wing. This plane is missing the gun bay door detail which is pretty obvious and given all the work someone did on the master model I figured it was needed. I also removed the extra gas cap detail these wings have. Iím guessing the model was based on a demilitarized P-51D somewhere and not a typical war bird. Iíve never seen any wartime Mustangs with that extra fuel capacity modification documented in service.
Where things took a turn was when I looked over at the next wing and realized itís totally OFF! I should have learned my lesson on the servo doors and other hints but noooo.

The wings are ready for primer and finishing. After this itís time to get the Fuse and wings together and get the connections sorted so I can finish up the radio and Cockpit. Iíll leave the engine and cowl for last.




Deleted Gas Caps





What!!!


Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 07-08-2020 at 04:29 PM.
Old 07-08-2020, 04:36 PM
  #143  
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The wing pylon is figured out. These will stay on the plane but can be removed if need be. Iím not sure if I trust flying this plane with tanks or bombs hanging on these. I did put a couple thick plywood strips with blind nuts epoxied on the inside of the wing skin. The strips are wider than the pylons and the pylon sits flush to the wing so thereís no gaps in the mounts. This pylon straddles the wing spar but itís still skin mounted.

I donít know, any feedback is welcome on this...



Old 07-12-2020, 06:58 PM
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Testing the air system here.




Installed the dual battery switch on the belly. The cool thing is this will have a flat black invasion stripe so the switch will blend right in.

Old 07-12-2020, 07:06 PM
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hereís the correction to the right wing panel. Iíll add the missing rivet details after paint so I can see it better.






Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 07-12-2020 at 07:19 PM.
Old 07-12-2020, 07:18 PM
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Got the air system up and running. The UP4 and UP2 are amazing valves. I used air line restrictors on the main gear and only made a small timing adjustment to the tail gear doors. The wings are basically done and ready for paint.

The fuselage got the Rx power switch installed so I’ll have to adjust the length of the wires to the two LiFe packs and the leads to the power regulator. The batteries will be just ahead of the tail retract to help counter balance the engine weight.
Old 07-13-2020, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Yes there is a 1/8 ply plate on the skin side. The foam will be reinforced with resin so thereís no compression. The Robart cylinder has a brass tube limiter in it so the length and stroke are set. I used the bigger cylinder for more air volume and strength.
Hi Chris, any pics of how you installed the brass tube limiter? I need to do the same on my CARF Corsair tail wheel doors as the rams are distorting the skins when closed.
Old 07-13-2020, 04:21 PM
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I don’t have pics but I made the limiter from brass tubing. I soldered a larger tube over the smaller tube as a shoulder feature to keep the main tube from going inside the end cap and smashing the o-ring. Make the smaller dia. tube the length you require and then add an 1/8 inch long sleeve/shoulder to be the stop. I used some digital calipers to measure the length and make them equal. Used a tube cutter and file to get them to length.
The cap on the Robart air cylinder just unscrews easily, no thread lock that I have seen on any I’ve taken apart.
By the way, take apart these cylinders and clean out the white grease. I replaced it with thick silicone RC oil and used just a couple drops. These don’t stick and move with very little air pressure now.

I’ll see if I can snap a quick pic for you...
Old 07-13-2020, 10:03 PM
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This is the internal limiter I made. The smaller spacer is an adjustment to reduce the throw further.




Old 07-22-2020, 08:26 PM
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In another OCD moment I noticed the windshield was weird looking so I changed it. The bottom edge is too tall making the window short and the instrument panel hood too tall. The other issue I noticed is the space between the window and the hood was very tight. The solution is to cut out the top of the hood to lower it so I can fit a nice lexan windshield in there. The Mustang has a very iconic cockpit and the front area will look better after this is fixed up. The armor plate at the bottom has a radius edge and from 3/4 front view makes a sort of S line with the side windows. The stock windshield frame is just wrong so I had to fix it!

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