Meister 1/5th P-47 with Fiberglas fuselage, a rebirth of a build!
#51
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Stabilizer is shaped and ready to prep for the layups.
I checked the plans agents my sized drawings and as they were last build they are off a bit. Should have checked before I started but I caught it in time.
You can see the elevator per plans is a bit smaller in depth.
[ATTACH]2213788[/IMG]
Adjusted to the larger size.
[ATTACH]2213789[/IMG]
The original and the larger under it.
luckily with the foam i just add some to the LE and then cut to fit the new pattern, then sand.
[ATTACH]2213790[/IMG]
The stab is the correct shape and width but it is short. That's an easy fix. I just added to the tips.
The stab is now 2-1/2" longer over all.
[ATTACH]2213791[/IMG]
I drew an outline to locate the parts and what I need to add.
5/8" for the LE
[ATTACH]2213792[/IMG]
Larger sized elevator.
[ATTACH]2213793[/IMG]
I wont final shape the elevator until the stab is joined and I can see how the elevator will fit, once I lay it up there is not sanding or shaping that I can do. I might do the tips the same as on the stab.
[ATTACH]2213795[/IMG]
For the tips of the stab I did a layered sandwich method. This gives a center line and then some lines in the layers so I can gauge the shape.
The center is cut from 1/32 birch ply. This is the shape final outline. That gets centered with the use of a strait edge, then glued in, 1/8" balsa on top of the ply, then 1/4" balsa on top of that.
You can see how the layering helps in gauging the shape. Once you git to the ply center you are at the correct shape.
[ATTACH]2213797[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213799[/IMG]
The LE of the stab is centered with a sharpy and a strait edge then sanded to that line. I am going for the sharp LE look and with the composite layups I can get away with it.
[ATTACH]2213800[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213802[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213804[/IMG]
This is what I am going for.
[ATTACH]2213806[/IMG]
You can see it comes to a sharp LE.
[ATTACH]2213808[/IMG]
Once i join the to halves I will get a soft sharp edge.
[ATTACH]2213810[/IMG]
This is one of the LE ribs.
[ATTACH]2213812[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213814[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213816[/IMG]
the ply is a good center to keep it all strait and strong for the mold making posses.
[ATTACH]2213818[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213820[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213822[/IMG]
I will prep this for the layups.
TB
I checked the plans agents my sized drawings and as they were last build they are off a bit. Should have checked before I started but I caught it in time.
You can see the elevator per plans is a bit smaller in depth.
[ATTACH]2213788[/IMG]
Adjusted to the larger size.
[ATTACH]2213789[/IMG]
The original and the larger under it.
luckily with the foam i just add some to the LE and then cut to fit the new pattern, then sand.
[ATTACH]2213790[/IMG]
The stab is the correct shape and width but it is short. That's an easy fix. I just added to the tips.
The stab is now 2-1/2" longer over all.
[ATTACH]2213791[/IMG]
I drew an outline to locate the parts and what I need to add.
5/8" for the LE
[ATTACH]2213792[/IMG]
Larger sized elevator.
[ATTACH]2213793[/IMG]
I wont final shape the elevator until the stab is joined and I can see how the elevator will fit, once I lay it up there is not sanding or shaping that I can do. I might do the tips the same as on the stab.
[ATTACH]2213795[/IMG]
For the tips of the stab I did a layered sandwich method. This gives a center line and then some lines in the layers so I can gauge the shape.
The center is cut from 1/32 birch ply. This is the shape final outline. That gets centered with the use of a strait edge, then glued in, 1/8" balsa on top of the ply, then 1/4" balsa on top of that.
You can see how the layering helps in gauging the shape. Once you git to the ply center you are at the correct shape.
[ATTACH]2213797[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213799[/IMG]
The LE of the stab is centered with a sharpy and a strait edge then sanded to that line. I am going for the sharp LE look and with the composite layups I can get away with it.
[ATTACH]2213800[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213802[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213804[/IMG]
This is what I am going for.
[ATTACH]2213806[/IMG]
You can see it comes to a sharp LE.
[ATTACH]2213808[/IMG]
Once i join the to halves I will get a soft sharp edge.
[ATTACH]2213810[/IMG]
This is one of the LE ribs.
[ATTACH]2213812[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213814[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213816[/IMG]
the ply is a good center to keep it all strait and strong for the mold making posses.
[ATTACH]2213818[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213820[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213822[/IMG]
I will prep this for the layups.
TB
#52
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Stabilizer is shaped and ready to prep for the layups.
I checked the plans agents my sized drawings and as they were last build they are off a bit. Should have checked before I started but I caught it in time.
You can see the elevator per plans is a bit smaller in depth.
[ATTACH]2213794[/IMG]
Adjusted to the larger size.
[ATTACH]2213796[/IMG]
The original and the larger under it.
luckily with the foam i just add some to the LE and then cut to fit the new pattern, then sand.
[ATTACH]2213798[/IMG]
The stab is the correct shape and width but it is short. That's an easy fix. I just added to the tips.
The stab is now 2-1/2" longer over all.
[ATTACH]2213801[/IMG]
I drew an outline to locate the parts and what I need to add.
5/8" for the LE
[ATTACH]2213803[/IMG]
Larger sized elevator.
[ATTACH]2213805[/IMG]
I wont final shape the elevator until the stab is joined and I can see how the elevator will fit, once I lay it up there is not sanding or shaping that I can do. I might do the tips the same as on the stab.
[ATTACH]2213807[/IMG]
For the tips of the stab I did a layered sandwich method. This gives a center line and then some lines in the layers so I can gauge the shape.
The center is cut from 1/32 birch ply. This is the shape final outline. That gets centered with the use of a strait edge, then glued in, 1/8" balsa on top of the ply, then 1/4" balsa on top of that.
You can see how the layering helps in gauging the shape. Once you git to the ply center you are at the correct shape.
[ATTACH]2213809[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213811[/IMG]
The LE of the stab is centered with a sharpy and a strait edge then sanded to that line. I am going for the sharp LE look and with the composite layups I can get away with it.
[ATTACH]2213813[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213815[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213817[/IMG]
This is what I am going for.
[ATTACH]2213819[/IMG]
You can see it comes to a sharp LE.
[ATTACH]2213821[/IMG]
Once i join the to halves I will get a soft sharp edge.
[ATTACH]2213823[/IMG]
This is one of the LE ribs.
[ATTACH]2213824[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213825[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213826[/IMG]
the ply is a good center to keep it all strait and strong for the mold making posses.
[ATTACH]2213827[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213828[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213829[/IMG]
I will prep this for the layups.
TB
I checked the plans agents my sized drawings and as they were last build they are off a bit. Should have checked before I started but I caught it in time.
You can see the elevator per plans is a bit smaller in depth.
[ATTACH]2213794[/IMG]
Adjusted to the larger size.
[ATTACH]2213796[/IMG]
The original and the larger under it.
luckily with the foam i just add some to the LE and then cut to fit the new pattern, then sand.
[ATTACH]2213798[/IMG]
The stab is the correct shape and width but it is short. That's an easy fix. I just added to the tips.
The stab is now 2-1/2" longer over all.
[ATTACH]2213801[/IMG]
I drew an outline to locate the parts and what I need to add.
5/8" for the LE
[ATTACH]2213803[/IMG]
Larger sized elevator.
[ATTACH]2213805[/IMG]
I wont final shape the elevator until the stab is joined and I can see how the elevator will fit, once I lay it up there is not sanding or shaping that I can do. I might do the tips the same as on the stab.
[ATTACH]2213807[/IMG]
For the tips of the stab I did a layered sandwich method. This gives a center line and then some lines in the layers so I can gauge the shape.
The center is cut from 1/32 birch ply. This is the shape final outline. That gets centered with the use of a strait edge, then glued in, 1/8" balsa on top of the ply, then 1/4" balsa on top of that.
You can see how the layering helps in gauging the shape. Once you git to the ply center you are at the correct shape.
[ATTACH]2213809[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213811[/IMG]
The LE of the stab is centered with a sharpy and a strait edge then sanded to that line. I am going for the sharp LE look and with the composite layups I can get away with it.
[ATTACH]2213813[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213815[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213817[/IMG]
This is what I am going for.
[ATTACH]2213819[/IMG]
You can see it comes to a sharp LE.
[ATTACH]2213821[/IMG]
Once i join the to halves I will get a soft sharp edge.
[ATTACH]2213823[/IMG]
This is one of the LE ribs.
[ATTACH]2213824[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213825[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213826[/IMG]
the ply is a good center to keep it all strait and strong for the mold making posses.
[ATTACH]2213827[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213828[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2213829[/IMG]
I will prep this for the layups.
TB
#53
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: springhill,
FL
Posts: 192
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Beautiful workmanship. ..way beyond my skill...can I ask u how long age u purchased mister product.?
can u describe how u purchased kit....I'm having a problem contacting mister.
can u describe how u purchased kit....I'm having a problem contacting mister.
#57
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: springhill,
FL
Posts: 192
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Thanks ALL
Dino did reply...I guess I'm just used to getting INSTANT gratification. ....
I did order my kit, a cowl and plans.
Will get retracts for Christmas. Don't want to press my luck with the wife.
Got moki 180 radial last Christmas ...can't wait to mount it in plane.
Dino did reply...I guess I'm just used to getting INSTANT gratification. ....
I did order my kit, a cowl and plans.
Will get retracts for Christmas. Don't want to press my luck with the wife.
Got moki 180 radial last Christmas ...can't wait to mount it in plane.
#61
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
First layup is curing. Not Sure how it will come out. I will let it cure overnight.
First I sprayed the release agent on the plug. It goes on with a brush or spray, I went with spray.
It is ready in 5 minutes.
Next I laid the first layer and applied the resin. Second layer, then the final layer. Three layers should give me 1/32 in thickness.
Now I wait
Video version.
TB
First I sprayed the release agent on the plug. It goes on with a brush or spray, I went with spray.
It is ready in 5 minutes.
Next I laid the first layer and applied the resin. Second layer, then the final layer. Three layers should give me 1/32 in thickness.
Now I wait
Video version.
TB
#62
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Ok it took all I had to let this cure and not mess with it until it had set for 24hr
The results are in!
once I had it all laid up I decided to cover it with plastic so I could place magazines on it to weigh it down. I also placed tow aluminium strait edges on the LE edges, The magazines were for the TE.
The plastic leaves a wrinkled finish but that gets sanded out.
Here is pre plastic and strait edge.
After the strait edge and plastic.
You can see all the wrinkles but the LE is nice and strait, tight to the plug.
Fully cured.
I Rough sanded the top skin before I broke it loos to get all the high spots and wrinkles knocked down.
Getting it off the parting plate was easy, the plug came out with it.
With a little pulling and prying it peeled right off the plug. The release agent worked great.
I trimmed it with a fiber cut of wheel on a dremel.
Once the two halves are joined I will do final sanding.
The plug survived with no damage, I was worried as it is delicate.
Final trimming will have to wait for the bottom skin.
The inside looks good.
The TE former and hinge blocks along with the center ribs will be all that will be glued in before the two skins are glued together.
I think this is going to work just fine and will save a lot of time if I would have made a mold and went that rout.
Next I will get the bottom skin ready to layup. I wont do the elevators until I have the stab done.
TB
The results are in!
once I had it all laid up I decided to cover it with plastic so I could place magazines on it to weigh it down. I also placed tow aluminium strait edges on the LE edges, The magazines were for the TE.
The plastic leaves a wrinkled finish but that gets sanded out.
Here is pre plastic and strait edge.
After the strait edge and plastic.
You can see all the wrinkles but the LE is nice and strait, tight to the plug.
Fully cured.
I Rough sanded the top skin before I broke it loos to get all the high spots and wrinkles knocked down.
Getting it off the parting plate was easy, the plug came out with it.
With a little pulling and prying it peeled right off the plug. The release agent worked great.
I trimmed it with a fiber cut of wheel on a dremel.
Once the two halves are joined I will do final sanding.
The plug survived with no damage, I was worried as it is delicate.
Final trimming will have to wait for the bottom skin.
The inside looks good.
The TE former and hinge blocks along with the center ribs will be all that will be glued in before the two skins are glued together.
I think this is going to work just fine and will save a lot of time if I would have made a mold and went that rout.
Next I will get the bottom skin ready to layup. I wont do the elevators until I have the stab done.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 08-03-2017 at 03:32 AM.
#63
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Meanwhile waiting for more CF cloth I am working on the rudder plug.
I wont do final shaping of the rudder until the fin is framed and laid up.
The tip and TE is sandwich for centering using 1/32 birch ply.
I am planning on framing up the fin this weekend so I can lay it up after I do the stab bottom skin.
TB
I wont do final shaping of the rudder until the fin is framed and laid up.
The tip and TE is sandwich for centering using 1/32 birch ply.
I am planning on framing up the fin this weekend so I can lay it up after I do the stab bottom skin.
TB
#64
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Starting to get the flaps hooked up.
double ribs at each hinge block to help lock them in and to make the detailed inset at the LE of the flap.
Flap deflection arm will get attached to the two inner hinges.
Top skin still needs some trimming.
The first linkage is to move the flap away from the TE of the wing.
flap in the up position.
Here it is tight in the pocket and flat with the bottom of the wing.
As it move s out it moves down too.
This is just the first linkage that moves it out.
The second linkage will give the flap the deflection like this.
Top shows how the TE sits tight to the top of the flap. I will tune the ribs and top skin when it is all hooked up to get the right fit.
Video of the first linkage.
TB
double ribs at each hinge block to help lock them in and to make the detailed inset at the LE of the flap.
Flap deflection arm will get attached to the two inner hinges.
Top skin still needs some trimming.
The first linkage is to move the flap away from the TE of the wing.
flap in the up position.
Here it is tight in the pocket and flat with the bottom of the wing.
As it move s out it moves down too.
This is just the first linkage that moves it out.
The second linkage will give the flap the deflection like this.
Top shows how the TE sits tight to the top of the flap. I will tune the ribs and top skin when it is all hooked up to get the right fit.
Video of the first linkage.
TB
#65
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Starting to get the flaps hooked up.
double ribs at each hinge block to help lock them in and to make the detailed inset at the LE of the flap.
Flap deflection arm will get attached to the two inner hinges.
Top skin still needs some trimming.
The first linkage is to move the flap away from the TE of the wing.
flap in the up position.
Here it is tight in the pocket and flat with the bottom of the wing.
As it move s out it moves down too.
This is just the first linkage that moves it out.
The second linkage will give the flap the deflection like this.
Top shows how the TE sits tight to the top of the flap. I will tune the ribs and top skin when it is all hooked up to get the right fit.
Video of the first linkage.
TB
double ribs at each hinge block to help lock them in and to make the detailed inset at the LE of the flap.
Flap deflection arm will get attached to the two inner hinges.
Top skin still needs some trimming.
The first linkage is to move the flap away from the TE of the wing.
flap in the up position.
Here it is tight in the pocket and flat with the bottom of the wing.
As it move s out it moves down too.
This is just the first linkage that moves it out.
The second linkage will give the flap the deflection like this.
Top shows how the TE sits tight to the top of the flap. I will tune the ribs and top skin when it is all hooked up to get the right fit.
Video of the first linkage.
TB
#67
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Switching over to the main gear install.
I laid up the the top skin for the wheel well.
Ultrakote then 3 layers of 5 oz cloth. I am not using carbon fiber for this as I do not want the signal blocking on the wing.
I applied some evercote lightweight fill then I will sand it smooth before I pull it off the wing.
I will be setting the top skin at the surface instead of the way I have done it before with gluing a balsa sheet on top to flush it out to the rest of the wing.
95% of the filler will get sanded off if not more. I will add 3/32x 1/4 base wood to fir out the ribs so the skin is flush with the top surface of the wing.
I will glass over this when I glass the wing.
Once the wheel bay is cut out out I will cut the skin to fit. I opted to make it a one piece instead of two, one for each side.
TB
I laid up the the top skin for the wheel well.
Ultrakote then 3 layers of 5 oz cloth. I am not using carbon fiber for this as I do not want the signal blocking on the wing.
I applied some evercote lightweight fill then I will sand it smooth before I pull it off the wing.
I will be setting the top skin at the surface instead of the way I have done it before with gluing a balsa sheet on top to flush it out to the rest of the wing.
95% of the filler will get sanded off if not more. I will add 3/32x 1/4 base wood to fir out the ribs so the skin is flush with the top surface of the wing.
I will glass over this when I glass the wing.
Once the wheel bay is cut out out I will cut the skin to fit. I opted to make it a one piece instead of two, one for each side.
TB
#68
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Top skin is sanded and cut to fit.
The three layers of 5.4 oz 70/30 weave is much weaker then the carbon fiber. It bends and is like a wet noodle. The thickness is the same 1/32" I am not sure it will be strong enough to be unsupported in the wheel well> i was planing on having the skin at the surface and not covered with balsa as I have done before but I may need to. Or I can lay in some CF in the wheel well.
I cut out the top balsa and ribs that are in the wheel well. The wheel bay will have no ribs in it this is why I do the fiberglass skin.
If I need the additional depth in the wheel well for the gear and wheel to fit I will install the skin flush with the top and glue in some 3/32" fir strips on the ribs and perimeter. If not then I will glue 3/32" balsa on top of the fiberglass skin to add strength and flush it out.
If I add the 3/32"balsa on top.
The interior bays are getting fine tuned, cleaned up and I will add the two ribs that box out the wheel well along with the two sides, LE and along the main spar.
gear mounts are getting fitted to the gear and as before the side that is closest to the wheel well you have to cut the mount down 1/4" so the gear will sit correctly into the wing.
Checking to see if I need to move the gear farther away from the center so the wheel will clear the belly.
Lots to do to get the gear in and the bay ready for detailing.
TB
The three layers of 5.4 oz 70/30 weave is much weaker then the carbon fiber. It bends and is like a wet noodle. The thickness is the same 1/32" I am not sure it will be strong enough to be unsupported in the wheel well> i was planing on having the skin at the surface and not covered with balsa as I have done before but I may need to. Or I can lay in some CF in the wheel well.
I cut out the top balsa and ribs that are in the wheel well. The wheel bay will have no ribs in it this is why I do the fiberglass skin.
If I need the additional depth in the wheel well for the gear and wheel to fit I will install the skin flush with the top and glue in some 3/32" fir strips on the ribs and perimeter. If not then I will glue 3/32" balsa on top of the fiberglass skin to add strength and flush it out.
If I add the 3/32"balsa on top.
The interior bays are getting fine tuned, cleaned up and I will add the two ribs that box out the wheel well along with the two sides, LE and along the main spar.
gear mounts are getting fitted to the gear and as before the side that is closest to the wheel well you have to cut the mount down 1/4" so the gear will sit correctly into the wing.
Checking to see if I need to move the gear farther away from the center so the wheel will clear the belly.
Lots to do to get the gear in and the bay ready for detailing.
TB
#69
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Top skin is sanded and cut to fit.
The three layers of 5.4 oz 70/30 weave is much weaker then the carbon fiber. It bends and is like a wet noodle. The thickness is the same 1/32" I am not sure it will be strong enough to be unsupported in the wheel well> i was planing on having the skin at the surface and not covered with balsa as I have done before but I may need to. Or I can lay in some CF in the wheel well.
I cut out the top balsa and ribs that are in the wheel well. The wheel bay will have no ribs in it this is why I do the fiberglass skin.
If I need the additional depth in the wheel well for the gear and wheel to fit I will install the skin flush with the top and glue in some 3/32" fir strips on the ribs and perimeter. If not then I will glue 3/32" balsa on top of the fiberglass skin to add strength and flush it out.
If I add the 3/32"balsa on top.
The interior bays are getting fine tuned, cleaned up and I will add the two ribs that box out the wheel well along with the two sides, LE and along the main spar.
gear mounts are getting fitted to the gear and as before the side that is closest to the wheel well you have to cut the mount down 1/4" so the gear will sit correctly into the wing.
Checking to see if I need to move the gear farther away from the center so the wheel will clear the belly.
Lots to do to get the gear in and the bay ready for detailing.
TB
The three layers of 5.4 oz 70/30 weave is much weaker then the carbon fiber. It bends and is like a wet noodle. The thickness is the same 1/32" I am not sure it will be strong enough to be unsupported in the wheel well> i was planing on having the skin at the surface and not covered with balsa as I have done before but I may need to. Or I can lay in some CF in the wheel well.
I cut out the top balsa and ribs that are in the wheel well. The wheel bay will have no ribs in it this is why I do the fiberglass skin.
If I need the additional depth in the wheel well for the gear and wheel to fit I will install the skin flush with the top and glue in some 3/32" fir strips on the ribs and perimeter. If not then I will glue 3/32" balsa on top of the fiberglass skin to add strength and flush it out.
If I add the 3/32"balsa on top.
The interior bays are getting fine tuned, cleaned up and I will add the two ribs that box out the wheel well along with the two sides, LE and along the main spar.
gear mounts are getting fitted to the gear and as before the side that is closest to the wheel well you have to cut the mount down 1/4" so the gear will sit correctly into the wing.
Checking to see if I need to move the gear farther away from the center so the wheel will clear the belly.
Lots to do to get the gear in and the bay ready for detailing.
TB