Spitfire arf 95" phoenix assembly
09-22-2020, 06:28 AM
#276
I was running a 26x12 for my first two flights. After a run up on the ground things seemed very hot. I worried about that and never went to full throttle during those flights, and had no issues.
I added telemetry for the second flight and the motor was at 180 degrees when I landed. Pretty hot
Running the Rimfire 65cc, Castle 160amp ESC, with 12s-8000 30C batteries
I purchased a 24x12, 24x10 and a 24x8 prop. Ran some static tests - full throttle for 1 min.
26x12
This test started melting the 12 awg wire between the meter and the batteries. The 10 awg was hot . Will not use this prop anymore.
24x12
90 amps, 3900 watts, 6000rpm, 127 degrees, and used 30% battery.
24x10
76 amps, 3600 watts, 6100 rpm, 132 degrees, and used 24% battery
24x8
73 amps, 3240 watts, 6400rpm, 130 degrees and used 25% battery
Not really sure what any of that tells me but I have some confidence now that I wont burn anything up.
We will see how things work in the air.
I added telemetry for the second flight and the motor was at 180 degrees when I landed. Pretty hot
Running the Rimfire 65cc, Castle 160amp ESC, with 12s-8000 30C batteries
I purchased a 24x12, 24x10 and a 24x8 prop. Ran some static tests - full throttle for 1 min.
26x12
This test started melting the 12 awg wire between the meter and the batteries. The 10 awg was hot . Will not use this prop anymore.
24x12
90 amps, 3900 watts, 6000rpm, 127 degrees, and used 30% battery.
24x10
76 amps, 3600 watts, 6100 rpm, 132 degrees, and used 24% battery
24x8
73 amps, 3240 watts, 6400rpm, 130 degrees and used 25% battery
Not really sure what any of that tells me but I have some confidence now that I wont burn anything up.
We will see how things work in the air.
10-05-2020, 04:55 AM
#277
Put the third flight on yesterday. Used a 24x8 prop. It flew the plane but very slow. Next flight I will try the 24x10.
Upon landing noticed that the motor was loose. I thought of the experiences others have had with the firewall breaking out. Turns out mine was the short screws attaching the motor to the aluminum motor mount.
As I was working on it several club members were around and turned the motor. We decided something was not quite right. I turned much to hard.
It did not "freewheel" at all. Checked against another one I have and it did turn much harder.
I will switch out the motors.
Even though it was flying slowly it flew fine never got mushy.
Anxious to get the motor issues resolved.
Upon landing noticed that the motor was loose. I thought of the experiences others have had with the firewall breaking out. Turns out mine was the short screws attaching the motor to the aluminum motor mount.
As I was working on it several club members were around and turned the motor. We decided something was not quite right. I turned much to hard.
It did not "freewheel" at all. Checked against another one I have and it did turn much harder.
I will switch out the motors.
Even though it was flying slowly it flew fine never got mushy.
Anxious to get the motor issues resolved.
10-06-2020, 06:14 AM
#279
I took the motor apart last night.
It look like the stator and magnets are actually rubbing in the last 1/4 inch or so.
Don't know if that happened because I overheated it with the 26x12 prop.
Or if that is why it was getting hot.
I bought it used but it seemed to turnover easier, I don't remember for sure.
It look like the stator and magnets are actually rubbing in the last 1/4 inch or so.
Don't know if that happened because I overheated it with the 26x12 prop.
Or if that is why it was getting hot.
I bought it used but it seemed to turnover easier, I don't remember for sure.
10-07-2020, 04:49 AM
#282
Larry, Per your comment I checked the bearings. The front bearing seems to be smooth it was not as smooth as the rear. I also noticed that it has a lot of wobble. New bearings on the way.
Thanks!
I was able to run the new motor with each of the 24" propellers 12, 10, and 8 pitch.
At full throttle they all took about 10 less amps, 400 less watts, and all ran at about the same rpm as the old motor.
The temps were also noticeably cooler, and the motor was quieter.
I did discover that the front bearings of my old motor have a fair amount of wobble. I will switch them out and see
Thanks!
I was able to run the new motor with each of the 24" propellers 12, 10, and 8 pitch.
At full throttle they all took about 10 less amps, 400 less watts, and all ran at about the same rpm as the old motor.
The temps were also noticeably cooler, and the motor was quieter.
I did discover that the front bearings of my old motor have a fair amount of wobble. I will switch them out and see
10-27-2020, 07:13 AM
#284
Does anyone know what date Phoenix started including elect retracts instead of pneumatics. What brand are they and what controller is used ? I'm just curious because it seems some of us received pneumatic and some received elect around the same shipping time . Anyone have enough flights on the electric to give input on the quality after using them for several flights ?
12-03-2020, 10:22 PM
#285
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I just ordered one today and I hope they are electric but if not, I will have Down and Locked convert them. I am done with pnuematics. I am planning on going electric for power as well. Probably with at least a twenty inch prop and four blades. Much more scale looking. Possibly a different spinner and definitely bigger wheels. Looks like there is room in the wells for a little bigger wheels. I am going to try not to make my classic mistake of getting too finicky about scale details and then never finishing the plane. Just trying to get back to larger planes. Love the foamies but just too small. I have a big Yellow Aircraft P-38 that I haven't maidened yet and it's all electric. A friend of mine on the East coast built it for me after some horse trading. He has the identical one, all electric as well and it flies beautifully.
12-06-2020, 07:02 PM
#287
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Just test flew mine today. I can also confirm needing a substantial amount of left airleron trim. I am guessing about 1/8 - 3/16. It wanted to roll to the right, right after take off and at all speeds. I will look into lateral balance but I doubt it could be that heavy on the right wing.
Otherwise if flew very nicely.
Jay
Otherwise if flew very nicely.
Jay
12-06-2020, 07:30 PM
#288
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I tried balancing and it was right on the money , i had to put more left aileron then you before it flew well . I'm going to try a 2 oz. weight on the left wing tip next after I check the Engine trust . This has bugged me for a while now . I love the plane but I do not like having all that trim . Let me know if you find anything !! Bob
12-21-2020, 06:04 AM
#291
I have 7 flights on mine now. Like the way it flys, and I also have to have some left trim.
On the last flight I bounced the landing. Did bit think it was to bad. As I was putting it away I noticed one of the landing gear was sitting funny.
The rear portion of the gear block sheared at the outside rib, and the gear mounting tabs were bent a bit.
The ribs were not damaged at all.
The ply wood is not very good.
I am in the process of replacing the rear portion of the gear mount.
I also ordered a new set of gear - and I received electric instead of the the pneumatic. The electric seem to be a lot "tighter" than the pneumatic.
On the last flight I bounced the landing. Did bit think it was to bad. As I was putting it away I noticed one of the landing gear was sitting funny.
The rear portion of the gear block sheared at the outside rib, and the gear mounting tabs were bent a bit.
The ribs were not damaged at all.
The ply wood is not very good.
I am in the process of replacing the rear portion of the gear mount.
I also ordered a new set of gear - and I received electric instead of the the pneumatic. The electric seem to be a lot "tighter" than the pneumatic.
12-21-2020, 06:20 AM
#292
I've got one of these new in the box that I purchased about a year ago . After reading this and other threads on this plane I know that I will go over all the accessible joints with thin CA to stiffen the cheap plywood and medium CA to fill any voids . I will also fiberglass the landing gear rails and bays . I will then drill small holes through the fiberglass to soak the wood with thin CA . This will add significant strength to the landing gear rails and will also help spread the load out into the ribs and spar.
02-08-2021, 03:25 AM
#297
Graham,
The DA-50 should work. I've got a DLE-61 in mine but, from my owning the DLE-55 and DA-50, the DA-50 seems to have more power than the DLE-55 plus the plane only weighs around 25 lbs which is very light for a 95" plane plus I, usually, don't use full throttle when flying the plane at a 'level' altitude.
The DA-50 should work. I've got a DLE-61 in mine but, from my owning the DLE-55 and DA-50, the DA-50 seems to have more power than the DLE-55 plus the plane only weighs around 25 lbs which is very light for a 95" plane plus I, usually, don't use full throttle when flying the plane at a 'level' altitude.
11-12-2021, 03:18 PM
#299
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Thanks to all for all valuable information in this thread!I will post pics of my phoenix 95"spit w DLE61 soon-Went all the way & fully stripped/glassed/air brush painted own camo/various re-inforcements esp on wings/firewall & landing gear. I've just installed both the radiators under wings held with Zap Goo & screws.It seems to me that the front part of radiators which is perpendicular (like a wall) & quite a large area, i see most have not opened up both fwd & rear holes in radiators to direct airflow. Doesn't it cause too much turbulent air flow, Cut Speed, less handling? Currently haven't opened fwd/aft part, installed them to protect plane from a possible belly landing. Would appreciate your input,Leo
11-13-2021, 04:14 PM
#300
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Thanks to all for all valuable information in this thread!I will post pics of my phoenix 95"spit w DLE61 soon-Went all the way & fully stripped/glassed/air brush painted own camo/various re-inforcements esp on wings/firewall & landing gear. I've just installed both the radiators under wings held with Zap Goo & screws.It seems to me that the front part of radiators which is perpendicular (like a wall) & quite a large area, i see most have not opened up both fwd & rear holes in radiators to direct airflow. Doesn't it cause too much turbulent air flow, Cut Speed, less handling? Currently haven't opened fwd/aft part, installed them to protect plane from a possible belly landing. Would appreciate your input,Leo
I fly mine a lot, probably have over 100 flights on it and ultimately I don't think it makes any difference. Some have commented that the closed radiators may cause hunting in pitch on high speed passes, but I have not experienced this. I think proper balance has a greater influence on pitch stability. It's a very light plane, so don't be afraid to add nose weight. Since you went through the trouble to strip and glass it, I would probably open up the radiators and add a grill to the front of each because it would greatly improve the appearance. It might possibly go faster, but the wing is so (non-scale) thick I am not sure whether wing drag is a bigger factor. In any case, it's a fun practice plane.
Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
Best regards,
-Ed B.
