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TopRCModel FW-190

Old 09-21-2020, 06:20 PM
  #1051  
elmshoot
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My rudder wasn't installed and then I replaced the tailwheel bulkhead so drilling holes aren't a problem. I have foot long drill bits if needed, I think they came from ACE R/C last century!
Moving the elevator servos to the front will save some nose ballast I'm presently down 1 POUND from initial balance.
Ill be flying with several other Top RC FW-190's this weekend at Warbirds and Classics over the Bluegrass in southern Indiana.
Sparky

Last edited by elmshoot; 09-21-2020 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:15 AM
  #1052  
Stephen Crisp
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Hi
I am about to invest in servos for my FW 190. Any recommendations please. Would like to go light as possible for the elevator. What torque should I aim for? 10 - 12 Kg/cm?
Thanks for your help
Stephen
Old 09-27-2020, 07:25 PM
  #1053  
elmshoot
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JR 4721 in my plane as well as some other JR servo's. Centering is more important (to me) than overall power. Elevator, Aileron and flaps at around 120 oz in and then 180+ or so for the rudder if running the TW along with the rudder. I use as short a horn on the servo and as long as possible on the servo gives the best mechanical advantage. 2 Life batteries power the airborne radio.
I flew 7 flights over the weekend at Warbirds and Classics. It lands so slow!
Sparky
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:35 PM
  #1054  
Stephen Crisp
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thanks elmshoot for your reply - helps me a lot
Old 09-29-2020, 10:02 PM
  #1055  
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Does anyone know a company who produces 3D printed parts for the FW. I am after the spinner fan particularly but interested in an other bits on offer
Old 09-29-2020, 10:37 PM
  #1056  
tom.kart
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normally at the end of the year a fw190 arrives at home with a Saito FG90
Old 09-30-2020, 05:10 AM
  #1057  
elmshoot
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Default 3D Printed fan

Originally Posted by Hurri Driver View Post
Does anyone know a company who produces 3D printed parts for the FW. I am after the spinner fan particularly but interested in an other bits on offer

There is a guy in Europe that sells them pretty reasonably priced. I bought one and discovered I had a Valley metal fan and spinner in my stash so I sold my 3D fan. Sorry you will have to look through the posts. I think his handle is Reverend. You might post what page his info is on for others when you find it.
I haven't heard anything negative about his product.
Sparky
I
Old 09-30-2020, 04:56 PM
  #1058  
jraycut
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Curious how many RPMs people have lost using the Fan?
Old 10-01-2020, 06:19 AM
  #1059  
elmshoot
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My setup will not allow running without the fan. I'm spinning a 24x10 WW2 Falcon prop in the low 6K range on the ground with a hand held tach.
Until this discussion I never considered the fan was costing any loss of RPM but I guess there is some.
I can't seem to get the RPM readout to work on my telemetry otherwise I could tell you the inflight RPM. I do have a temp dielectric wrapped around the base of the right spark plug and it is in the 250F range which validates my cooling system. Since the Spektrum will only give one temp read out next time I have the cowl off. (And i remember) I'll move the temp loop to the left spark plug just to make sure everything is Kosher. I don't expect any surprises as I have over an hour of flying without a hint of engine issues.
I do know it will twist the prop to supersonic during flyby's!
Sparky
Old 10-01-2020, 12:43 PM
  #1060  
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Originally Posted by jraycut View Post
Curious how many RPMs people have lost using the Fan?
jraycut, IAW Reverend the manufacturer of the fan I bought for my FG90R3, the fan will rob approximately 150 RPM from the engine.

post # 4346, TF FW190 GIANT ARF

very legit question. The temp`s of the cylinders was 20 lower at idle. I have telemetry in my Focke Wulf and the Cylinders cool down a lot quicker in flight after hammering throttle on longer passages. I do however have the engine baffled very well.

The (small) downside is you will be losing about 150 RPM. But for me its worth the cooling effect. Especially on the ground.

Rgds,
Rev
Old 10-02-2020, 05:06 AM
  #1061  
jraycut
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thanks guys! I'm fighting an issue w the moki 150 (w CH Ignition), and haven't figured it out yet. I'm missing about 800-1000 rpms. Heres where I've been and where im at;
- Initial run-ups - Beila 26-16 FW three blade w a 5" Tru Turn lightened Spinner. Du-bro 40oz tank. I was getting about 4400-4600 max rpms (on the ground)
- Current set up - SEP 25-17 three blade w a TopRC Spinner, Revs Fan, Carb velocity stack, Getting 3850 max rpms (confirmed w Dr G that i should be getting 5000 rpms or a little less (on the ground) as the prop unloads in the air and will gain more rpms). Changed fuel tank to TopRC as its shorter in length to allow the install of the velocity stack
- What i am currently expierencing; ground runs w cowl off, engine starts easily, transitions from idle (1000 rpm) to mid (2500-3000 rpms) easily and smoothly. Get to 3/4 throttle and engine will not gain any more power regardless of needle settings. As we all know the moki's like to run on 4 cylinders (lol), so i will be about 200-250 rpms shy of what i 'should' be getting.
- reason for change; went to a different prop per Dr G's suggestion to help w cooling (more airfoil from the blades running to the hub as opposed to the 'round sticks' from the more scale beilaa prop) as i was overheating in the air (yes the engine is baffled). It was also suggested to try the velocity stack (also to help w fuel spitting from the carb (very little) and not get the inside of the fusleage messy). Went w the smaller diameter spinner to allow more air to come inside the cowl. I have also increased the exhaust openings of the cowl and added a small 'lip' to help draw the hot air out of the cowl (have not flown or run the engine yet w the cowl on).

I have done the following;
- ensured the ignition battery is fully charged
- removed the velocity stack - no change
- reset the carb needles (several times) and adjust accordingly
- confirmed no leaks in fuel lines
- pulled the spark plugs to confirm no fouling
- confirmed the spark plug gaps (CM-6) are w/in range

What i am going to be doing today
- confirm valve gaps are w/in tolerance
- pull the carb off and check the screens for any FOD

Anyone have any input or suggestions?

Old 10-02-2020, 07:48 AM
  #1062  
elmshoot
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Close the back of the baffles so it forces the air around the fins.
Sparky



I have a temp at the base of the right sparkplug of around 250F on the ground and in the air.
If you can get a temp for each cly (IR Gun) you will see which cly isnt running or if you have individual exhaust pipe the temps will be different there to.




Last edited by elmshoot; 10-02-2020 at 07:52 AM.
Old 10-02-2020, 01:38 PM
  #1063  
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Originally Posted by jraycut View Post
thanks guys! I'm fighting an issue w the moki 150 (w CH Ignition), and haven't figured it out yet. I'm missing about 800-1000 rpms. Heres where I've been and where im at;
- Initial run-ups - Beila 26-16 FW three blade w a 5" Tru Turn lightened Spinner. Du-bro 40oz tank. I was getting about 4400-4600 max rpms (on the ground)
- Current set up - SEP 25-17 three blade w a TopRC Spinner, Revs Fan, Carb velocity stack, Getting 3850 max rpms (confirmed w Dr G that i should be getting 5000 rpms or a little less (on the ground) as the prop unloads in the air and will gain more rpms). Changed fuel tank to TopRC as its shorter in length to allow the install of the velocity stack
- What i am currently expierencing; ground runs w cowl off, engine starts easily, transitions from idle (1000 rpm) to mid (2500-3000 rpms) easily and smoothly. Get to 3/4 throttle and engine will not gain any more power regardless of needle settings. As we all know the moki's like to run on 4 cylinders (lol), so i will be about 200-250 rpms shy of what i 'should' be getting.
- reason for change; went to a different prop per Dr G's suggestion to help w cooling (more airfoil from the blades running to the hub as opposed to the 'round sticks' from the more scale beilaa prop) as i was overheating in the air (yes the engine is baffled). It was also suggested to try the velocity stack (also to help w fuel spitting from the carb (very little) and not get the inside of the fusleage messy). Went w the smaller diameter spinner to allow more air to come inside the cowl. I have also increased the exhaust openings of the cowl and added a small 'lip' to help draw the hot air out of the cowl (have not flown or run the engine yet w the cowl on).

I have done the following;
- ensured the ignition battery is fully charged
- removed the velocity stack - no change
- reset the carb needles (several times) and adjust accordingly
- confirmed no leaks in fuel lines
- pulled the spark plugs to confirm no fouling
- confirmed the spark plug gaps (CM-6) are w/in range

What i am going to be doing today
- confirm valve gaps are w/in tolerance
- pull the carb off and check the screens for any FOD

Anyone have any input or suggestions?
Hi,

several possible reasons...

I run a Moki 150 with Rainbow ignition (comparable to CH). My Impression is, that a Biela 24x17 3-blade fits better.

Then check the little hose between the suction pump on top of the crankcase and the carburetor. Sometimes grease in the line prevents proper function.
Is the pump working? You can check that by putting the carb end of the hose into a glas of water and flipping the prop. But be careful not to get water into the pump...

The two long screws fixing the carb have to be tight.
Is the seal between carb and crankcase in place? If not, or the seal is damaged, the carb loses pump pressure.

Finally, you can try and replace all seals and membranes inside the carb, they can get hard over the time... But be careful to insert the new ones in the correct order and direction. May be a bit complicated the first time.


Regards,
Juergen (from Germany)

Last edited by blackbox747; 10-02-2020 at 01:58 PM.
Old 10-02-2020, 03:10 PM
  #1064  
jraycut
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Thanks guys!!

im very appreciative all the responses from all over the world! 🤘

I was really hoping Adrian would have called back today, but no dice. Im going to pull the engine off tomorrow AM and go through the Carb....but I really think its an ignition problem. I may even test the ignition module tomorrow as well.

keep the responses and inputs coming, well get it licked!
Old 10-11-2020, 07:24 AM
  #1065  
mgosson
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Default Retract Tailwheel Modification

I am not 100 percent certain if this issue had been made public as it relates to the Top RC brand of electric retracts, namely the tailwheel. For those that are not familiar let me clue you in. The supplied placement of the retract servo will NOT function - ever. I addressed this issue with Top RC in China and they essentially told me I was full of it. I asked for advice from a friend who is significantly smarter than me and he agreed.
After pondering and looking around on Fakebook someone else encountered the same issue. His idea and execution mirrored ours. The retract servo needs to be relocated inside the vertical fin, this represents a 45-50 degree relocation. The catch however is, and this applies anyone that plans on servicing the unit after installation. Once everything is assembled and the rudder installation is complete you will never be able to work on it again, unless you hack of the rudder.

This issue was addressed in two fronts; relocate the retract servo and make the rudder removable for when servicing is needed.
the rudder needs to be removed in case servicing is needed.
Let me add this; it was not the easiest project I've ever tackled but it did turn out better than I expected.

For the rudder I used Robart hinges and ground of the rivets to create two pieces. We used a 12" x 1/8" drill bit to create the pilot hole through the entire span of the rudder and re-drilled with a 3/16" to finish it up. I inserted a 3/16 Sullivan pushrod tube with epoxy to create a pathway for the music wire to pass inside. Once that was complete I epoxied (3) Robart hinges into the rudder while using music as a guide. After the epoxy dried I removed the music wire and mated the other (3) Robart hinges to their mates. This allows for an easy method of removal for if or when.

For the retract servo I believe the photos are self explanatory. If you examine the first photos (our benchtop mockup) you can clearly see why the original placement simply wont work along with the concept placement we needed. Lastly, when everything was installed I soon realized once the servo was in the retract position and power was no longer to the servo the retract would begin to sag, due to the geometry and weight. I added a helper spring to keep it up. This is / was a test and I will make a determination if it needs any modifications. From the photo you can clearly see why the rudder needs to be removable.



















This is the OEM placement - will never work

Concept placement


Helper spring - collapsed

Helper spring - extended

Geometry for proper placement









Helper spring installed
Old 10-11-2020, 05:39 PM
  #1066  
elmshoot
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If you would have asked I could have saved you some time. I'm using Robart hinge pockets.
https://robart.com/collections/contr...e-point-pocket
Also if you wanted to pull the pin on the hinge use these.
https://robart.com/collections/contr...8-hinge-points
Sparky
Old 10-12-2020, 06:22 PM
  #1067  
Stephen Crisp
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Hi mgosson
I am not sure whether you are referring to my post on Facebook, but I designed it so that you can access everything with the rudder in place. I did however make it possible to remove the rudder if necessary. I will post some pictures of how I made the rudder removeable - a little more simple than your design.
Once you get the tailwheel to retract, you will have to reroute the tailwheel control cables to allow the rudder to operate when the tailwheel is in the retract position. Please let me know if you would like to know how I did this.
Everything is working perfectly now
Old 10-12-2020, 06:49 PM
  #1068  
Stephen Crisp
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Hi Wingspar
where can I order the correct sized swastika?
Thanks
Stephen
Old 10-12-2020, 07:07 PM
  #1069  
elmshoot
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https://callie-graphics.com/ Paint mask or stickers

Sparky
Old 10-12-2020, 07:31 PM
  #1070  
Stephen Crisp
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thank you elmshoot
Old 10-12-2020, 07:52 PM
  #1071  
Stephen Crisp
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Thank you elmshoot - I ordered a set from Callie
Old 10-12-2020, 07:55 PM
  #1072  
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Hi Sparky
I guess you meant to say - use a short horn on the servo and a long horn on the control surface - correct?
Old 10-13-2020, 05:02 AM
  #1073  
elmshoot
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Originally Posted by Stephen Crisp View Post
Hi Sparky
I guess you meant to say - use a short horn on the servo and a long horn on the control surface - correct?
Steve,
There are multiple posts on here, I'm not sure what post of mine you are specifically referring to, but yes in general I will use the shortest arm on the servo and longest horn on the control surface.
Sparky
Old 10-14-2020, 08:50 PM
  #1074  
Stephen Crisp
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Hi Sparky
you mentioned that the CG is too far forward. Where do you recommend the CG should be?
Thanks Stephen
Old 10-14-2020, 08:54 PM
  #1075  
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Default Throws

Originally Posted by elmshoot View Post
Just curious how do you know that?
What temps are you seeing reported?

Also factory CG is too far forward. I have now reduced my nose weight by ONE POUND. I am using the three scales method with the wing set at 1 degree positive as that's likely what the wing is at during level high speed flight. About the only thing I've noticed is the required elevator throw is less to maneuver. With expo this might be an airplane that can be flow on one or two rates. Once I get a few more development flights I'll publish my results. I'm only using one rate on my ailerons already.
Sparky
Hi Sparky
I would be very interested in the 2 sets of rates that you are using. The throws in the manual seem quite large.
Thanks
Stephen

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