TopRCModel FW-190
#1203
My Feedback: (6)
It looks like you have the elevator servos up front to solve some of the balance issues.
I would really discourage the use of Nyrods in general and in particular an airplane as large and fast as this plane.
They change length with temperature and unless you have the outer tube firmly attached along the run it will flex and you will use effectiveness.
In the US the standard recommendation is to use the larger hardware we call it 4-40. I think in Europe its 3 MM. What I see there is the small hardware called 2-56.
Sparky
I would really discourage the use of Nyrods in general and in particular an airplane as large and fast as this plane.
They change length with temperature and unless you have the outer tube firmly attached along the run it will flex and you will use effectiveness.
In the US the standard recommendation is to use the larger hardware we call it 4-40. I think in Europe its 3 MM. What I see there is the small hardware called 2-56.
Sparky
#1204
the outer tube is attached along the fuse there is 8 attached point.there is also a piece of wood behind the tube at the tail.
i have check the is no deflection like that but you re right you have to attached correctly the outer tube.
i have check the is no deflection like that but you re right you have to attached correctly the outer tube.
#1205
Maiden flight done. that's a great plane and the combo with the saito FG90 isn't powerless for me. Just have to review the landing Gear fassteners that moved with the original toprc assembly
#1208
[QUOTE = elmshoot; 12676161] Ça a l'air bien! Sur la base de mon expérience lorsque vous avez atterri, vous étiez rapide et long et le film a ensuite été coupé.
Est-ce que ça s'est passé à la fin?
Des dommages?
Avez-vous coupé le bas des portes d'engrenage pour le dégager de l'herbe?
Où s'est retrouvé le solde?
Il atterrira d'une lenteur trompeuse.
Sparky [/ QUOTE
]you are right the approach was too fast, due to the fear of a stall and an engine idle too high. I am also not used to the 4 stroke and the noise is less important than my usual 2 strokes.
no damage to the plane it stopped before the end of the runway. i cut the gear doors but i will remove a little more,it's too near from the grass
Est-ce que ça s'est passé à la fin?
Des dommages?
Avez-vous coupé le bas des portes d'engrenage pour le dégager de l'herbe?
Où s'est retrouvé le solde?
Il atterrira d'une lenteur trompeuse.
Sparky [/ QUOTE
]you are right the approach was too fast, due to the fear of a stall and an engine idle too high. I am also not used to the 4 stroke and the noise is less important than my usual 2 strokes.
no damage to the plane it stopped before the end of the runway. i cut the gear doors but i will remove a little more,it's too near from the grass
Last edited by tom.kart; 05-03-2021 at 10:21 AM.
#1209
tom.kart
Full flaps on this plane is 60 degrees. Don't be afraid to use that setting. The plane can handle it and your nerves will love it. Just focus on keeping the nose pointed at the ground and when you flare the plane will set itself down as the speed bleeds off quickly. Beautiful flight!
Full flaps on this plane is 60 degrees. Don't be afraid to use that setting. The plane can handle it and your nerves will love it. Just focus on keeping the nose pointed at the ground and when you flare the plane will set itself down as the speed bleeds off quickly. Beautiful flight!
#1210
If anybody wants one of the FW190 I have one brand new in the box. $1395.00
You can email me at [email protected] PP is OK
https://gator-rc.com/fw-190-focke-wu...-by-toprcmodel
You can email me at [email protected] PP is OK
https://gator-rc.com/fw-190-focke-wu...-by-toprcmodel
#1213
My Feedback: (8)
CG Rig
As I enter the final stages of completion it was time to check the CG, but I needed a homegrown, single use solution. My original plan was to avoid adding a lot of weight and in the end I need 32 oz. in the the nose, tough luck.
We made the CG brackets from 1/4 MDF from on a paper template drawn on the bench. It appears 168 mm from the LE is what most are using and coincides with the manual. We placed the MDF plates on the two tubes and drilled a hole in the MDF at the CG. Fed through nylon line and wrapped it around a Harbor Freight aluminum stand. We raised the plane from the stand and began to add weight, 123 blocks worked well in the case, for a starting point.
My plan is make a silicone mold (Mold Putty) and press the putty into the front ring on the cowl, remove it, let it cure and creates a female mold from mthe first impression. That's the plan anyway.
Melt lead shot and pour it directly into the female mold, let it chill and see if it works.
We made the CG brackets from 1/4 MDF from on a paper template drawn on the bench. It appears 168 mm from the LE is what most are using and coincides with the manual. We placed the MDF plates on the two tubes and drilled a hole in the MDF at the CG. Fed through nylon line and wrapped it around a Harbor Freight aluminum stand. We raised the plane from the stand and began to add weight, 123 blocks worked well in the case, for a starting point.
My plan is make a silicone mold (Mold Putty) and press the putty into the front ring on the cowl, remove it, let it cure and creates a female mold from mthe first impression. That's the plan anyway.
Melt lead shot and pour it directly into the female mold, let it chill and see if it works.
The following users liked this post:
tom.kart (06-01-2021)
#1214
My Feedback: (6)
I would discourage putting weight on the cowl unless you build additional supports. 32 oz at 10G's is over 20 pounds hanging on the flimsy fibelgalss cowl. Not good.....
Also you should make the weight removable so you can reduce the ballast in the nose. I have removed at least 10 oz or more from the nose on my plane and based on what it felt like yesterday when I flew, I can reduce the weight even more.
Keep your options open.
Clever CG machine.
If you have a twin installed, you can build a box over the top of the engine to secure the weight to. I think there are photos on here of my installation.
Sparky
Also you should make the weight removable so you can reduce the ballast in the nose. I have removed at least 10 oz or more from the nose on my plane and based on what it felt like yesterday when I flew, I can reduce the weight even more.
Keep your options open.
Clever CG machine.
If you have a twin installed, you can build a box over the top of the engine to secure the weight to. I think there are photos on here of my installation.
Sparky
#1215
My Feedback: (6)
tom.kart
Full flaps on this plane is 60 degrees. Don't be afraid to use that setting. The plane can handle it and your nerves will love it. Just focus on keeping the nose pointed at the ground and when you flare the plane will set itself down as the speed bleeds off quickly. Beautiful flight!
Full flaps on this plane is 60 degrees. Don't be afraid to use that setting. The plane can handle it and your nerves will love it. Just focus on keeping the nose pointed at the ground and when you flare the plane will set itself down as the speed bleeds off quickly. Beautiful flight!
Sparky
#1216
My Feedback: (8)
I'm using a Saito 90 on mine.
Part of my idea was to pour smaller segments of lead where I can remove portions if necessary. Thanks for pointing out the potential issues with the added weight in the cowl. I'll have to give that one some thought.
Thanks for the tips.
Part of my idea was to pour smaller segments of lead where I can remove portions if necessary. Thanks for pointing out the potential issues with the added weight in the cowl. I'll have to give that one some thought.
Thanks for the tips.
I would discourage putting weight on the cowl unless you build additional supports. 32 oz at 10G's is over 20 pounds hanging on the flimsy fibelgalss cowl. Not good.....
Also you should make the weight removable so you can reduce the ballast in the nose. I have removed at least 10 oz or more from the nose on my plane and based on what it felt like yesterday when I flew, I can reduce the weight even more.
Keep your options open.
Clever CG machine.
If you have a twin installed, you can build a box over the top of the engine to secure the weight to. I think there are photos on here of my installation.
Sparky
Also you should make the weight removable so you can reduce the ballast in the nose. I have removed at least 10 oz or more from the nose on my plane and based on what it felt like yesterday when I flew, I can reduce the weight even more.
Keep your options open.
Clever CG machine.
If you have a twin installed, you can build a box over the top of the engine to secure the weight to. I think there are photos on here of my installation.
Sparky
#1219
My Feedback: (6)
Are you doing a fan and are you installing a baffle for cooling?
You know I did think about this back when i was doing my Saito R60 on my Hellcat. Are the cooling fins removable?
It looks like they are.... Do the screw holes go all the way through the crankcase as they are open to the inside of the of the engine. Or do they bottom out?
My engine didn't have the fins but that is where I would put the weight.
I mold my weights and would make them in pie shaped and bolt to the cooling fins.
Sparky
You know I did think about this back when i was doing my Saito R60 on my Hellcat. Are the cooling fins removable?
It looks like they are.... Do the screw holes go all the way through the crankcase as they are open to the inside of the of the engine. Or do they bottom out?
My engine didn't have the fins but that is where I would put the weight.
I mold my weights and would make them in pie shaped and bolt to the cooling fins.
Sparky
#1220
I FINALLY got a maiden flight on my FW! It is powered by a Saito FG90R3, swinging a 24 x 12 Zoar 2blade. I was concerned about the balance, because I added ZERO nose/tail weight. It flew "off the board" with no need for any trim. Landing was a piece of cake. The entire flight was done with 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, giving me excellent performance. All in all, I'm a happy camper!
Old Dawg
Old Dawg
The following 3 users liked this post by pattnut:
#1221
Hi guys, I just started browsing through this thread since I am about to order the 190, delivery not before september. I read about all the flak (pun intended!), the TopRC retracts got. But those are post from 2018, pneumatic version. By now they sell electric retracts, and for 2021 an even newer version. Is this just as crappy or save to order with the kit? Ordering from Sierra and ship to Europe is probably an expensive hassle.
Apologies if this has been mentioned already, still working my way through 35 forum pages!
Kind regards and thanks for all the great pictures y'all have posted, Marco
Apologies if this has been mentioned already, still working my way through 35 forum pages!
Kind regards and thanks for all the great pictures y'all have posted, Marco
#1222
My Feedback: (6)
Send Mike an email about the gear. He was very helpful when I asked similarly hard questions about the wheels offered in the kit he even sent me a pair to evaluate and I returned them as they were heavier and less scale like than what I had installed on my FW. If you do order the Sierra I would recommend the Sierra wheels as well.
Sparky
Sparky
The following users liked this post:
Chris Nicastro (07-02-2021)