TopRC giant P-47 Thunderbolt ARF
#427
Tailwheel retract
Hey all ….I ended up shimming my tail wheel like a few here …now unfortunately my retract is giving me issues….Is this something that is adjustable or is it shot….I was having trouble with it cycling when I would extend it before….now the motor just runs for a second and stops……either gear up or down….
#428
Rick227, With the quality of the TopRC gear, I would bet it's not the fact that you shimmed it, unless the whole assembly is tensioned in an odd way. My tailwheel retract motor gave up last weekend after approximately 130-150 actuations, between setup and 35 flights. My track record in getting the proper retract parts from TopRC has not been stellar, sooo my tailwheel is now permanently extended and doors are closed.
On a good note, the Cortex pro gyro is working great for my ground looping issue on landing!
I do not know of any adjustment on the retract. Unless I'm mistaken, they usually travel until they amp out from reaching either end of the travel.
On a good note, the Cortex pro gyro is working great for my ground looping issue on landing!
I do not know of any adjustment on the retract. Unless I'm mistaken, they usually travel until they amp out from reaching either end of the travel.
Last edited by Colt4570; 05-07-2023 at 07:09 PM.
#429
Tailwheel Retract
I kind of figured that was the case…it never really operated right to begin with. It cycled back and forth before finally extending….I for one am a bit disappointed in this kit given the money extended and the service….
#430
My Feedback: (23)
Rick227,
I had the same issue with mine except I only got maybe 15 cycles on it before it crapped out.
Sent it back to Gator RC and they replaced; I have yet to fly my P-47 simply because I have NO trust in these TopRC gear.
And now I see that Robart has come out with gear for this aircraft.
I had the same issue with mine except I only got maybe 15 cycles on it before it crapped out.
Sent it back to Gator RC and they replaced; I have yet to fly my P-47 simply because I have NO trust in these TopRC gear.
And now I see that Robart has come out with gear for this aircraft.
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Rick227 (05-08-2023)
#431
Rick227,
I had the same issue with mine except I only got maybe 15 cycles on it before it crapped out.
Sent it back to Gator RC and they replaced; I have yet to fly my P-47 simply because I have NO trust in these TopRC gear.
And now I see that Robart has come out with gear for this aircraft.
I had the same issue with mine except I only got maybe 15 cycles on it before it crapped out.
Sent it back to Gator RC and they replaced; I have yet to fly my P-47 simply because I have NO trust in these TopRC gear.
And now I see that Robart has come out with gear for this aircraft.
I can say that after replacing the actuators with Electron ER-50's on my mains (a little machining of the struts involved), I can wholeheartedly recommend Electron retract units! Unfortunately, I think they only make jet struts right now, but the units are solid.
Last edited by Colt4570; 05-09-2023 at 07:01 AM. Reason: spelling
#432
My Feedback: (23)
Colt4570,
I saw this on another RC site; a u-tube video; I haven't seen the entire video yet and I don't know the cost but like you when I purchased my P-47 I had to buy the gear with it; I'm sure you have seen my previous posts about my challenges with electric gear I have always been an air retract gear guy when it comes to big warbirds for FWIW.
NEW Robart Top RC P47 Combo kit Electric Retracts - YouTube
I saw this on another RC site; a u-tube video; I haven't seen the entire video yet and I don't know the cost but like you when I purchased my P-47 I had to buy the gear with it; I'm sure you have seen my previous posts about my challenges with electric gear I have always been an air retract gear guy when it comes to big warbirds for FWIW.
NEW Robart Top RC P47 Combo kit Electric Retracts - YouTube
#433
I know how you feel Mike. My first warbird had pneumatic and all others since unfortunately have had electric by default. If Sierra had made a set for this one, I definitely would have done that instead of the electric. The Robarts look good too!
#434
Couple of questions:
1. Where did you order your Electrons from in the US?
2. I realize you extended the "pin" shoulder. Did the strut pin diameter fit the Electron? Do I have to order a specific size trunion from Electron to fit the strut "pin"?
Thanks for your efforts. Love the results.
jim
#435
Hey Colt4570,
Couple of questions:
1. Where did you order your Electrons from in the US?
2. I realize you extended the "pin" shoulder. Did the strut pin diameter fit the Electron? Do I have to order a specific size trunion from Electron to fit the strut "pin"?
Thanks for your efforts. Love the results.
jim
Couple of questions:
1. Where did you order your Electrons from in the US?
2. I realize you extended the "pin" shoulder. Did the strut pin diameter fit the Electron? Do I have to order a specific size trunion from Electron to fit the strut "pin"?
Thanks for your efforts. Love the results.
jim
Hey Jim,
I actually ordered them directly from Electron in Spain. I didn't see any US dealers on their site. I got the ER-50 Classic's, 90deg with the 15mm pin hole size and got the GS-200 controller. When I turned the pin shoulder back, I turned it down to just slip fit into the trunion, rather than turning it down to 15mm diam. exactly.
I did order their screw set for a few bucks and used them to mount the units as opposed to the original wood screws. Since I had already installed the original gear, I had to dowel the holes and start new for mounting.
Darrin
Last edited by Colt4570; 05-12-2023 at 01:27 PM. Reason: adding text
#436
Hey Darrin,
I noticed a flex in the tail wheel G10 backplate when operating the retract. When mounted to the bulkhead, this could create a fair amount of tension on the motor as it moves. Could this contribute to the motor burnouts we are seeing?
jim
I noticed a flex in the tail wheel G10 backplate when operating the retract. When mounted to the bulkhead, this could create a fair amount of tension on the motor as it moves. Could this contribute to the motor burnouts we are seeing?
jim
#437
I noticed that too. It's possible, but not sure if that's an issue or not. As far as I understand, when the motor encounters enough resistance, the controller is supposed to tell it to shut off by amping out, This is normally why if the unit gets bent and it enounters that resistance only halfway through its travel it will stop.
#438
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 40
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
If you are installing the UMS150 you’ll need to use two spacers to clear the cowl at least I had to use two.
#439
#442
My Feedback: (8)
How are you guys routing the main landing gear wires? Attempting to go through the flap servo bay but wing tube is stopping me from going through the bulkheads.
Guess I will have to run through the aileron servo bay. Was hoping I could have had a shorter extension.
Guess I will have to run through the aileron servo bay. Was hoping I could have had a shorter extension.
Last edited by TJPro351; 05-30-2023 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Added
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John8861 (06-20-2023)
#443
Pretty sure I went through the hole next to the retract motor, over the top of the wing tube, then out through the same hole in the wing root used for the flap servo. (With the wing upside down, you go under the tube). Also used some clear tape to hold the wire to the retract motor as a strain relief.
Sorry, the red arrow should be on the other side of the retract, lol.
Sorry, the red arrow should be on the other side of the retract, lol.
#444
My Feedback: (9)
#445
Are you talking about the spacers between the engine mounting plate and fire wall or the spacers to get the short nose 150 far back enough in the cowl to clear the rocker arms?
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
Last edited by LtMash1A; 05-31-2023 at 12:56 PM.
#446
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
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Are you talking about the spacers between the engine mounting plate and fire wall or the spacers to get the short nose 150 far back enough in the cowl to clear the rocker arms?
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
#447
My Feedback: (1)
Shaft extension
Are you talking about the spacers between the engine mounting plate and fire wall or the spacers to get the short nose 150 far back enough in the cowl to clear the rocker arms?
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
Between engine back plate and firewall: Nirly
Between engine hub and prop: Sierra Giant Scale. Also Adrian has some spacers that will work but you may need to get a shaft extension and longer 5mm bolts
where do you get shaft extension for ums 150?
#448
Either Sierra Giant Scale or Ray English. ([email protected]). Unless Darrell has one in stock, Ray will be faster. Tell him you want one like he made for Mashburn. He can make a shaft extension as well. He would need a couple of orders to justify buying the aluminium stock. Steel is too heavy. Darrell makes a nice one as well but I found the wait time to be long.
Last edited by LtMash1A; 06-17-2023 at 09:08 AM. Reason: Adding information
#449
My Feedback: (-1)
Brad
https://www.electrodynam.com/cgi-bin...ch_field=cover
ED SunVis Sunlight-Visible Model Lighting System
#450
My Feedback: (2)
Either that or make your own wing tip lenses.
I have found that the plastic that comes on cakes and pies tend to be the correct thickness. Pull it over the wing tip and hit it with a heat gun. The plastic will form around the tip and if heated and pulled just right you can see the panel lines in the plastic. Cut out the wing tip and the plastic. It will be a perfect fit.
I have found that the plastic that comes on cakes and pies tend to be the correct thickness. Pull it over the wing tip and hit it with a heat gun. The plastic will form around the tip and if heated and pulled just right you can see the panel lines in the plastic. Cut out the wing tip and the plastic. It will be a perfect fit.