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Build thread: readying the Hanger 9 mustang 1/5th scale.

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Build thread: readying the Hanger 9 mustang 1/5th scale.

Old 01-11-2022, 09:06 AM
  #76  
Hot Rod Todd
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My P-51 is all stripped and has been glassed. I have the primer coats on, and am working on getting the rivet and other detail added prior to painting. Here's the wing prior to adding primer to get panel line detail.


I added some detail to the cockpit. The stock cockpit is not bad, and the sliding canopy actually fits well.
I'll be putting a "Best Pilot" that I had from another plane in there.


Old 01-11-2022, 09:11 AM
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I'll be using some Restoleum Metallic finish paint. Should give a decent representation of a bare aluminum (shiny, not overly weathered). I painted my Horiz. stab to test it out. Not sure how much I'll scuff it, or how much weathering I'll do. Depends how well the paint stands up the masking process when I paint on all the graphics. I'll provide some more information as I progress.

Old 01-11-2022, 09:15 AM
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Can you do me a solid and show a pick of your canopy frame from the back looking foward, open?
pin won't slide in track.
Old 01-11-2022, 10:16 AM
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I had that problem too. I sanded down the pin a bit, but it turns out the problem was a lip in the slot. I wouldn't modify the canopy, you need to get down in the slot and get the lip off that prevents it from sliding in. I used an allen wrench to get in there and feel what was going on. My canopy slides nicely now, but it would be better if I wouldn't have sanded the pin on the canopy.

Old 01-12-2022, 03:05 AM
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That pin can be switched. What I'm trying to figure out is how high the canopy frame sits at the back of the track.
Old 01-12-2022, 07:37 AM
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The big opening in the firewall is gpingbto cause issues with mounting the zenoah.

I've ordered some 1/8th inch birch ply to laminate and fill up most of that opening. Once its flush, I'll then epoxy a solid 1mm sheet of cf to both the front and rear of the firewall. I can then notch the right side of it to clear the carburetor, replace the light ply support pieces then dowel pin with 3mm cf rod cut to to length, restoring the strength in that area. Once that is done, the zenoah will mount.

Old 01-12-2022, 08:17 AM
  #82  
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Jiri has been hard at work.
Old 01-12-2022, 02:00 PM
  #83  
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You sure are making good progress with your build.
Old 01-12-2022, 02:06 PM
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It just seems like it. Cockpit being painted by jpwarbirds. I haven't turned a screw yet.
Old 01-13-2022, 04:32 AM
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This week, my major concern is planning the exhaust. The jtec wrap around kit specific isn't going to work.
the easiest way to resolve would be a functional scale exhaust for exhaust side of engine, but nobody makes scale exhaust anymore. Whatever it is is going to be custom.

I'm thinking a small can exhaust or a wrap around pitts, almost.
reason: see pics.





the standard exhausts available will hit the carb.

also considering having a custom canister exhaust machined out of aluminum through emachineshop.com then using a flex header from exhaust port to the canister. Getting a quote on that just to get an idea on cost.

another option is some copper tubing frpm the local home depot and braze something up...then run a flex header to that.

final option...just straight pipe it.



Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-13-2022 at 05:07 AM.
Old 01-14-2022, 11:35 AM
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Cockpit all finished up by Jiri. He plans shipping on Monday. All I should have to do is glue on the mixture quadrant and install.
might take a trim here and there..but thats ok.
Old 01-14-2022, 05:53 PM
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Bill Rademucher, On the subject of where to mount nose weight on the Hanger 9 P-51. WARNING: On mine I mounted a bunch of steel BBs in the upper coweling clear up to the former that is the upper nose ring. It took a lot of BBs to balace my P-51. I was trying to get them as far forward as possible. Big Mistake. The upper part of the nose in that area is just balsa wood with a few stringers in it. After a few flights and engine vibration, the weight of the BB's cause the balsa to crack at the first former which weakened the mount in that area. I even had fiberglassed that area before flying. I would not suggest mounting very much weight in that area. Mount most of the weight on or behind the first former.
Ralph White
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Old 01-14-2022, 11:08 PM
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Duly noted

I'm kinda hoping the extra weight of the varioprop means no weight in the nose. Between the Zenoah and it, I'm actually hoping she either balances without weight, or I just have to shift the rx battery back some. We'll see how that goes down the road.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-15-2022 at 05:31 AM.
Old 01-15-2022, 05:42 AM
  #89  
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For anyone building this. Drilling for the horizontal stab bolts. The manual's measurements are screwy. If you go by the manual, the bolts will be close to the edge of the block. Not good.

Use these and it will be centered in the block: measure 5 inches, 4 3/4 inches from edge of stab puts the bolt dead center of the mounting block and dead center of the tube.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-16-2022 at 05:00 AM.
Old 01-16-2022, 04:33 PM
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On further note, when mounting nose weight, it should be done in a balance box over the motor The firewall, in most rc planes, is pretty much the only thing designed to bear a large amount of weight, If its a couple of oz ok, maybe the cowl, but the weight being slung on in a lot of the threads on this plane... nuh uh. Weight box, tied into either the firewall, or engine mounts/standoffs.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-17-2022 at 10:07 AM.
Old 01-17-2022, 04:46 AM
  #91  
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Jiri just finished these up in CAD. New cockpit storage bag for his 1/5 P51 cockpit. Hes sending one along.
Old 01-17-2022, 10:02 AM
  #92  
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Guys, if you are going full tilt yowards a scaled out mustang, you could do no better than JP warbirds.

This panel is just....art.
the updated cockpit storage bag is also in the picture. Tank selector panel all detailed out. I swear Jiri goes to sleep with a migraine every night from concentrating to do details like that. Even if they are decals, that takes some severe magnification to get exactly right.



Of course, what that means, is after this flying season I'm going to have to seriously study up on doing panel lines and rivets just to end up with an exterior that does that cockpit justice.



As you can see, this cockpit is as detailed as you can get. Gunsight, radios, side panels, throttle and mixture quadrants. They don't get any better. JP warbirds raises the bar.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-17-2022 at 10:09 AM.
Old 01-21-2022, 01:32 PM
  #93  
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Progress tesumes 1/29 I'll be back at the canopy frame and sanding the wings, center wig a touch to make things mate up better. Then on to starting to mount and set up servos. I'm not sure if Jiri's cockpit will have been delivered by then. Last notification was it was leaving Praha in the Czech Republic.
Old 01-21-2022, 01:40 PM
  #94  
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So, I THINK I have resolved the exhaust issue. Its going to turn out that a Bisson muffler is going to be the best option, with one slight modification..clocking the exhaust flange just a bit more so it clears the front of the engine box and gives room for the linkages to throttle and choke.

Worst comes to worst, I have decided on an alternate course. If I absolutely have to, an RCGF 63 cc will spin the varioprop just fine. I hope the Zenoah can be situated, but fall backs are always good. The wife wants a DR3, so if worst comes to worst, the zenoah can go in that.

The new RCGF 63 cc single rear exhaust will be available in March. Trials of the prototypes (talking with one of the three owners of RCGF this morning) the 63 cc will spin a 23x8 two blade at 7800 rpm range. All three prototypes hit right near that mark from 7725 to 7810. Ample power to spin the varioprop.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-21-2022 at 01:47 PM.
Old 01-28-2022, 09:59 AM
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Top tip..

Double check the battery you grab to start programming your retracts. Do not accidently grab a 3s. You will fry the eflg 1000 programmer and they are discontinued. You can't replace it.

I just spent 245 bucks through dreamworks rc to get a new retract controlker and programmer thats compatable with eflite retracts..


By the way..this is one big plane lol The leads poking out the flap servo hatches are for the retracts.







The control horns that came with elevator servos were completely different. I've ordered a set of matched aluminum horns to replace both so throws will be matched.

Wing fitment is still snug but good.

Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 01-28-2022 at 10:05 AM.
Old 01-28-2022, 10:12 AM
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I have to clean up the ultracote here..this is in between the flap and wing.theres enough overlaped and loose exta covering that its actually binding the flaps some. Thats next..then install flap servos and control horns.

Another issue...the tube for the hinge wire rus throughthe slot for the control horn.

Two options...remove the hinge wire and cut the tube, or notch the horn for the tube.


I think I'll notch the horn, the tube rotates with the flap. By binding the horn to the tube I think it wil actually control the flap better.
Old 01-28-2022, 11:02 AM
  #97  
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Making good progress on my Mustang. The wing and fuse are detailed and painted. I'll be applying graphics soon. The photo shows the wing with the all metal finish, provided by the Rustoleum paint. It looks nice when it's put on, but doesn't like to be touched much. Even the masking tape takes off some of the sheen. That's ok, most likely it'll revert to a more weathered finish over time.
I decided to go with a manual choke, so I used a bellcrank and some linkage to make it happen. I'm happy with the end result (see the photo). Just a small rod peaks out the bottom of the cowl.


Old 01-28-2022, 11:04 AM
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I decided to create a door to hide the switches. I'm using all Nimh batteries. I'll use a 5200 mah for the main power fed through two parallel switches. A 5 cell 3000mah for the ignition, and a 6 cell 3000mah for the Electric Retracts. Here is the switch and hatch that I made with charge jacks.
Old 01-28-2022, 11:09 AM
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Landing gear is mounted in the wings, all the gear doors are setup. It was a bit of work, but I'm satisfied with how they function. I'm not too happy with the spring that pulls the tail wheel doors shut. It seems to be made of metal that's a bit soft, so it doesn't want to spring back very well sometimes. I may have to come up with a more suitable spring. I glued the belly scoop onto the wing. I had to do some work so that I wouldn't break the scoop when the bolts were tightened. I also put some Hysol glue where the bolts contact the wing to get it to space out a bit better. It seems to fit fine.


Last edited by Hot Rod Todd; 01-28-2022 at 11:10 AM. Reason: removed photo that was wrong
Old 01-28-2022, 11:12 AM
  #100  
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I'm working on getting everything loaded into the fuse now. Wiring it all up, getting the fuel system installed. Here's a photo of the fuse after painting. Won't be long I'll put it together and get a few photos prior to final detail and graphics being added.


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