Road trips: 2023
08-22-2023, 10:06 AM
#51
A-1 Skyraider PM (cont).
Electric gear doors working and remote engine starter, also, working.
Video:
Gear and doors functioning with new gear sequencer from Robart.
3 items:
1) I have to sequence the toggle once to 'set' the gear.
2) I held the front door against the oleo to insure the door didn't 'catch' on the oleo
so I'll just leave the 'wind' move the front door closed as I have done with my Ziroli F6F Hellcat.
3) I watched a full size Skyraider and the Left gear has a slight delay when retracting so I 'inputting' that into my gear.
Remote engine starter:
Interesting in that, with the choke on, the engine didn't 'sputter' as my normal procedure when 'hand cranking' the prop so I turned the choke off and the engine started.
Robart gear sequencer.
I had to move the 2 switches on the 'board' so the doors operated in the correct sequence.
Tail gear is, also, functional.
Had to open the Low needle valve a 1/4 turn as the engine was 'stopping' when the throttle was advanced quickly.
I had the 'overflow' and 'fill' tubing backwards!
Drilled the 4 holes for a 22X10 prop that gave me around 6,600 RPMS.
Electric gear doors working and remote engine starter, also, working.
Video:
Gear and doors functioning with new gear sequencer from Robart.
3 items:
1) I have to sequence the toggle once to 'set' the gear.
2) I held the front door against the oleo to insure the door didn't 'catch' on the oleo
so I'll just leave the 'wind' move the front door closed as I have done with my Ziroli F6F Hellcat.
3) I watched a full size Skyraider and the Left gear has a slight delay when retracting so I 'inputting' that into my gear.
Remote engine starter:
Interesting in that, with the choke on, the engine didn't 'sputter' as my normal procedure when 'hand cranking' the prop so I turned the choke off and the engine started.
Robart gear sequencer.
I had to move the 2 switches on the 'board' so the doors operated in the correct sequence.
Tail gear is, also, functional.
Had to open the Low needle valve a 1/4 turn as the engine was 'stopping' when the throttle was advanced quickly.
I had the 'overflow' and 'fill' tubing backwards!
Drilled the 4 holes for a 22X10 prop that gave me around 6,600 RPMS.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-23-2023 at 07:44 AM.
08-23-2023, 07:34 AM
#52
A-1 Skyraider final PM (hopefully!).
I used the shortest CG to be 'safe' at 5" from LE of wing with gear UP.
A little nose heavy so moved 2 batteries back a few inches (she has 5 batteries: receiver 2, ignition, gear and starter motor).
Final spaghetti interior!
Put a piece of clear plastic (from pastry) over servos to prevent wire entanglement.
Added just a small amount of epoxy on each dowel to secure the horizontal stab to the fuse.
With a 'wing tube' not a lot of epoxy is needed.
Glued and screwed a small lead weight just behind the tail wheel for the CG.
Some white lithium grease on the motor starter gears.
Ready to 'rock n roll'!
I used the shortest CG to be 'safe' at 5" from LE of wing with gear UP.
A little nose heavy so moved 2 batteries back a few inches (she has 5 batteries: receiver 2, ignition, gear and starter motor).
Final spaghetti interior!
Put a piece of clear plastic (from pastry) over servos to prevent wire entanglement.
Added just a small amount of epoxy on each dowel to secure the horizontal stab to the fuse.
With a 'wing tube' not a lot of epoxy is needed.
Glued and screwed a small lead weight just behind the tail wheel for the CG.
Some white lithium grease on the motor starter gears.
Ready to 'rock n roll'!
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-23-2023 at 07:36 AM.
08-23-2023, 08:51 AM
#53
A-1 Skyraider; a few last items.
One tank pilon was loose.
Some epoxy on a wooden dowel that secures the pilon to the wing.
Drop tank servos.
Guns needed some epoxy.
Just able to get wings and drop tanks in one wing bag!
Will have to be careful as those rockets are fragile!
One tank pilon was loose.
Some epoxy on a wooden dowel that secures the pilon to the wing.
Drop tank servos.
Guns needed some epoxy.
Just able to get wings and drop tanks in one wing bag!
Will have to be careful as those rockets are fragile!
08-23-2023, 01:33 PM
#54
P-47 Top Flite PM.
It was 'talking to me' but I didn't listen!
While at the 'field' I could get the engine to go to 'full throttle' but it would, then, sputter and die.
I just had the tank moved so I could check all the engine mounts and figured I pinched the fuel line.
NADA!
At home I checked the battery and the 6 volt battery was at 4.1 volts.
I've been charging it several times but it kept saying 'max voltage' which doesn't happen after several flights at the 'field'.
The battery is 2700 MA so I charged it at 2000 and it worked and went to 6.1 volts.
It charged but too dangerous so it is being replaced.
Old battery.
I replaced my old JR 11X with a new one since the battery voltage was going from 10.5 to 9.5.
I never fly below 10.0 so that was disturbing.
I thought it was the transmitter but I decided to put another battery pack in the old transmitter and it appears to be 'holding'.
I'll stop by 'batteries plus' and have them make me a new battery pack.
Byron F4U (85") PM.
The new hatches that I made were a little flimsy so I added another layer of heavy duty FG cloth.
Of course, after making these hatches, I remembered that I have some CF cloth which would have been a lot 'stiffer'!
It was 'talking to me' but I didn't listen!
While at the 'field' I could get the engine to go to 'full throttle' but it would, then, sputter and die.
I just had the tank moved so I could check all the engine mounts and figured I pinched the fuel line.
NADA!
At home I checked the battery and the 6 volt battery was at 4.1 volts.
I've been charging it several times but it kept saying 'max voltage' which doesn't happen after several flights at the 'field'.
The battery is 2700 MA so I charged it at 2000 and it worked and went to 6.1 volts.
It charged but too dangerous so it is being replaced.
Old battery.
I replaced my old JR 11X with a new one since the battery voltage was going from 10.5 to 9.5.
I never fly below 10.0 so that was disturbing.
I thought it was the transmitter but I decided to put another battery pack in the old transmitter and it appears to be 'holding'.
I'll stop by 'batteries plus' and have them make me a new battery pack.
Byron F4U (85") PM.
The new hatches that I made were a little flimsy so I added another layer of heavy duty FG cloth.
Of course, after making these hatches, I remembered that I have some CF cloth which would have been a lot 'stiffer'!
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-23-2023 at 01:37 PM.
08-27-2023, 02:01 PM
#55
For 2 days I had trouble accessing only this website as my AVG software would not let me access this site.
It took over an hour with AVG to resolve the problem.
Byron F4U Corsair PM.
Got the front hatch to fit the fuse access hole.
The 2nd hatch didn't have 'straight lines' so some 'thought' was required.
Put masking tape along the recess and then used a pen to outline the recess
and then taped some clear plastic (pastry container) over the hole.
I used a new #11 X-acto blade to cut the plastic to match the glue pen line.
I could then tape the clear plastic to the FG hatch previously made.
I used some small tin snips to cut the FG hatch following the outline of the clear plastic.
Some minor sanding and all's 'good'.
There are existing holes in the fuse to accept screw to secure the hatches.
I just used a felt tip pen to mark each hole, drill it and then used a hex head screw.
For accuracy I only did one hole at a time until I had two to stabilize the hatch cover.
Later, I'll replace them with some 'button head' screws.
'FIRE' always works!
One main wheel was missing and it had a broken off screw in it.
The screw had a hole in the center so I was able to force a torks head into it,
heat the area with my 'soldering' torch and remove the screw.
A 1/4-20 bolt secured the new wheel.
You know the plane is old when the old air lines, literally, crumbles!
It took over an hour with AVG to resolve the problem.
Byron F4U Corsair PM.
Got the front hatch to fit the fuse access hole.
The 2nd hatch didn't have 'straight lines' so some 'thought' was required.
Put masking tape along the recess and then used a pen to outline the recess
and then taped some clear plastic (pastry container) over the hole.
I used a new #11 X-acto blade to cut the plastic to match the glue pen line.
I could then tape the clear plastic to the FG hatch previously made.
I used some small tin snips to cut the FG hatch following the outline of the clear plastic.
Some minor sanding and all's 'good'.
There are existing holes in the fuse to accept screw to secure the hatches.
I just used a felt tip pen to mark each hole, drill it and then used a hex head screw.
For accuracy I only did one hole at a time until I had two to stabilize the hatch cover.
Later, I'll replace them with some 'button head' screws.
'FIRE' always works!
One main wheel was missing and it had a broken off screw in it.
The screw had a hole in the center so I was able to force a torks head into it,
heat the area with my 'soldering' torch and remove the screw.
A 1/4-20 bolt secured the new wheel.
You know the plane is old when the old air lines, literally, crumbles!
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-27-2023 at 02:05 PM.
08-27-2023, 02:15 PM
#56
2 days in a 'row' at the 'field'.
Saturday.
Tried to maiden the new A-1 Skyraider but a few 'issues' arrived.
Did fly the TF P-47 though.
Main Skyraider issue: one elevator was not secured.
Bought this from an estate and 'assumed' all surfaces were 'glued'!
Fortunately, when I do my 'range check' I rotate the plane 360 degrees, 90 each 'check', and the elevator came off on the 3rd 'check'.
The engine is 'maxed' at each 'check' so the vibration revealed the problem.
Sunday.
Got the field mowed.
A good day; lots of warbirds!
Did get the maiden but more issues.
Faulty ignition battery; the engine 'burped' but able to land before it stopped.
The 'battery checker' doesn't put a 'load' on the battery so it showed 'good'.
Saturday.
Tried to maiden the new A-1 Skyraider but a few 'issues' arrived.
Did fly the TF P-47 though.
Main Skyraider issue: one elevator was not secured.
Bought this from an estate and 'assumed' all surfaces were 'glued'!
Fortunately, when I do my 'range check' I rotate the plane 360 degrees, 90 each 'check', and the elevator came off on the 3rd 'check'.
The engine is 'maxed' at each 'check' so the vibration revealed the problem.
Sunday.
Got the field mowed.
A good day; lots of warbirds!
Did get the maiden but more issues.
Faulty ignition battery; the engine 'burped' but able to land before it stopped.
The 'battery checker' doesn't put a 'load' on the battery so it showed 'good'.
08-28-2023, 01:51 PM
#57
A-1 Skyraider 'post flight' adjustments.
The battery wires going to the 'starter motor' broke at the connector.
The manufacturer soldered only 'tip to tip' instead of overlapping the wires.
I also used solder for water pipes as I, believe, it is stronger than solder for 'wire'.
Also, I used a 'plastic tie' on the heavy duty wire to the motor mount to reduce vibration.
The faulty ignition battery was replaced.
This battery along with the 2 receiver batteries go into a cavity at the bottom of the front of the fuse.
A servo screw for one of the flaps was missing.
Fortunately, it came off after the maiden and while I was 'ground testing' the engine.
Since them, I removed all servo trays and PM'ed them.
The 2 outer wings needed some 'wrinkles' removed.
A pilot once told me to rub a moist cloth over the area after the hot air gun has removed the wrinkles.
Before:
After.
The cowl mounts were a little loose so I applied zap finishing resin and HD FG cloth to them.
Seems like all the ARF's that I've had have weak cowl mounts.
A little sanding needed after the resin 'cooked'.
Planes being charged for the trip to Muncie.
Ziroli SBD.
Ziroli P-47
Hobby Legends Skyraider.
The battery wires going to the 'starter motor' broke at the connector.
The manufacturer soldered only 'tip to tip' instead of overlapping the wires.
I also used solder for water pipes as I, believe, it is stronger than solder for 'wire'.
Also, I used a 'plastic tie' on the heavy duty wire to the motor mount to reduce vibration.
The faulty ignition battery was replaced.
This battery along with the 2 receiver batteries go into a cavity at the bottom of the front of the fuse.
A servo screw for one of the flaps was missing.
Fortunately, it came off after the maiden and while I was 'ground testing' the engine.
Since them, I removed all servo trays and PM'ed them.
The 2 outer wings needed some 'wrinkles' removed.
A pilot once told me to rub a moist cloth over the area after the hot air gun has removed the wrinkles.
Before:
After.
The cowl mounts were a little loose so I applied zap finishing resin and HD FG cloth to them.
Seems like all the ARF's that I've had have weak cowl mounts.
A little sanding needed after the resin 'cooked'.
Planes being charged for the trip to Muncie.
Ziroli SBD.
Ziroli P-47
Hobby Legends Skyraider.
09-06-2023, 11:06 AM
#63
PM Skyraider and SBD Dauntless.
Skyraider:
Video of 2nd flight take off:
I only put a small amount of epoxy on the inner wood dowels figuring that would be 'good enough' since there is a large metal tube between the stabs and fuse.
NADA!
The stab vibrates from the engine running as there is a very small amount of 'play' in the assembly.
l used some finishing resin, since it is thin, and allowed it to run into the bottom of the stab and fuse.
It seems 'good and solid' now!
13 year old Ziroli SBD Dauntless has an air leak.
I check the air 'fill' and 'gauge' and those were good.
I did replace the 'fill valve' since the inner threads are a little 'stripped'.
As usual, every thing is 'modular' so it was easy to test/replace parts without have to try to access these parts from inside the fuse!
After replacing the connectors and tubing found the problem being the air cylinder only in the UP position.
I tried some of Darrel's grease and 'AC' oil but no 'luck'.
Sent an email to Darrel for a new air cylinder plus some flat head screws since one was broken.
All new air lines and connectors.
Hemostats and AC oil are good for locating 'leaks'.
Can see the AC oil moving in the lines.
Homemade collars from air tubing to secure the tubing to the air cylinder.
Scott Prossen showed me this 'trick'.
Skyraider:
Video of 2nd flight take off:
I only put a small amount of epoxy on the inner wood dowels figuring that would be 'good enough' since there is a large metal tube between the stabs and fuse.
NADA!
The stab vibrates from the engine running as there is a very small amount of 'play' in the assembly.
l used some finishing resin, since it is thin, and allowed it to run into the bottom of the stab and fuse.
It seems 'good and solid' now!
13 year old Ziroli SBD Dauntless has an air leak.
I check the air 'fill' and 'gauge' and those were good.
I did replace the 'fill valve' since the inner threads are a little 'stripped'.
As usual, every thing is 'modular' so it was easy to test/replace parts without have to try to access these parts from inside the fuse!
After replacing the connectors and tubing found the problem being the air cylinder only in the UP position.
I tried some of Darrel's grease and 'AC' oil but no 'luck'.
Sent an email to Darrel for a new air cylinder plus some flat head screws since one was broken.
All new air lines and connectors.
Hemostats and AC oil are good for locating 'leaks'.
Can see the AC oil moving in the lines.
Homemade collars from air tubing to secure the tubing to the air cylinder.
Scott Prossen showed me this 'trick'.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-06-2023 at 11:20 AM.
09-15-2023, 01:19 PM
#66
Some flying and PM on the A-1 Skyraider.
One rocket 'fell off' plus PM the 'drop tanks'.
Fortunately the rocket fell off when landing.
Both plastic 'rocket holders' broke.
Used some aircraft ply to make new ones.
Glued the plastic parts to the new ply and labeled them front and back.
Used a Dremel cut off disk for the initial cut and a metal file for the final slot size.
Let the epoxy 'cook'.
The drop tanks fell off on the ground when I put the engine to 'full throttle'.
I rarely throw anything away!
Some 'semi stiff' white foam.
The manual had screws to put into the drop tank 'stabilizers' but the plastic seems a little weak for that so I used the stiff foam
and epoxied the foam to the front and back of the pilons.
That should work.
Field pictures.
One rocket 'fell off' plus PM the 'drop tanks'.
Fortunately the rocket fell off when landing.
Both plastic 'rocket holders' broke.
Used some aircraft ply to make new ones.
Glued the plastic parts to the new ply and labeled them front and back.
Used a Dremel cut off disk for the initial cut and a metal file for the final slot size.
Let the epoxy 'cook'.
The drop tanks fell off on the ground when I put the engine to 'full throttle'.
I rarely throw anything away!
Some 'semi stiff' white foam.
The manual had screws to put into the drop tank 'stabilizers' but the plastic seems a little weak for that so I used the stiff foam
and epoxied the foam to the front and back of the pilons.
That should work.
Field pictures.
The following users liked this post:
maddog-RCU (09-23-2023)
The following users liked this post:
maddog-RCU (09-23-2023)
The following users liked this post:
maddog-RCU (09-23-2023)
The following users liked this post:
maddog-RCU (09-23-2023)
The following users liked this post:
maddog-RCU (09-23-2023)
11-01-2023, 04:36 AM
#74
Plane show in Cincinnati, Ohio.
Miles:25.
Probably my last 'post' until Spring since I don't fly unless it's at least '70 outside'!
Hosted by the Aeromodeler's club.
Saw lots of friends from the area's 5 clubs.
Always lots of old kits available!
Surprised to see Silvester from Lexington, KY.
Miles:25.
Probably my last 'post' until Spring since I don't fly unless it's at least '70 outside'!
Hosted by the Aeromodeler's club.
Saw lots of friends from the area's 5 clubs.
Always lots of old kits available!
Surprised to see Silvester from Lexington, KY.
