Road trips: 2023
03-24-2023, 09:58 AM
#1
Road trips: 2023
Modelrama plane show at Dayton, Ohio.
Miles: 40
That time of year again.
I think my first 'road trip' thread was in 2009!
I went to just socialize but bought 2 planes!
There were two buildings.
Held at the fairgrounds.
1st building.
Lots of pictures of fellow pilots. Must of been from at least 8 different RC clubs.
Jack from Cincinnati.
Chuck from GCRCC and Jim from WORKS (both of my clubs).
Jeff came a long way from Minnesota but he also has a home in NC.
Was surprised to see these fellow pilots there.
Allan from Rosewood.
Brian owns 'Dynamic Balsa' where I get all my 'cockpit' kits from.
Paul from the Muncie area.
One huge plane. It was 'said' that it has a 500 CC engine (must be ZDZ).
Silvester and friends from Lexington's club.
Doug and Dave.
Dennis.
Celina, Ohio area.
Keith from Xenia, Ohio area.
Tony from AMA.
Gary.
I had one of these when they first 'came out'.
I'm surprised on how many 'hits' and 'posts' my thread on this plane has gotten over the 'decades' as I had 'hits' on it even last year.
Nice 1/4 scale plane.
2nd building.
I didn't take too many more pictures as, after buying the 2nd plane, I didn't want to check out other tables as I already spent 'enough'!
Greg.
Don.
Next post has the 'booty' that I bought
Miles: 40
That time of year again.
I think my first 'road trip' thread was in 2009!
I went to just socialize but bought 2 planes!
There were two buildings.
Held at the fairgrounds.
1st building.
Lots of pictures of fellow pilots. Must of been from at least 8 different RC clubs.
Jack from Cincinnati.
Chuck from GCRCC and Jim from WORKS (both of my clubs).
Jeff came a long way from Minnesota but he also has a home in NC.
Was surprised to see these fellow pilots there.
Allan from Rosewood.
Brian owns 'Dynamic Balsa' where I get all my 'cockpit' kits from.
Paul from the Muncie area.
One huge plane. It was 'said' that it has a 500 CC engine (must be ZDZ).
Silvester and friends from Lexington's club.
Doug and Dave.
Dennis.
Celina, Ohio area.
Keith from Xenia, Ohio area.
Tony from AMA.
Gary.
I had one of these when they first 'came out'.
I'm surprised on how many 'hits' and 'posts' my thread on this plane has gotten over the 'decades' as I had 'hits' on it even last year.
Nice 1/4 scale plane.
2nd building.
I didn't take too many more pictures as, after buying the 2nd plane, I didn't want to check out other tables as I already spent 'enough'!
Greg.
Don.
Next post has the 'booty' that I bought
Last edited by samparfitt; 03-24-2023 at 02:29 PM.
03-24-2023, 10:12 AM
#2
Dayton, Ohio show (cont).
AMA was there as they are only about 75 miles 'away'.
Tom.
Booty.
Skyraider by Lengend Hobby.
86" WS, brand new, electric retracts, EME 60 motor with remote starter and very nice receiver.
Needs some work to get it ready to fly.
All the 'ginger bread', remote starter, gear and receiver 'sold' me to buy it!
3 remote drop tanks.
Remote starter: very cool.
High quality 'linkages'.
All wood construction.
Receiver.
engine box.
Lucky everything 'fit' in my truck!
Byron F4U corsair in the back of the trailer. Has gear and needs some work. No motor but I have a 'spare'.
My kind of 'builder': He made a removable 'fire wall'.
Makes 3 F4U's now: never have too many Corsairs!
Bought a very nice fuel tank: only 20 bucks.
AMA was there as they are only about 75 miles 'away'.
Tom.
Booty.
Skyraider by Lengend Hobby.
86" WS, brand new, electric retracts, EME 60 motor with remote starter and very nice receiver.
Needs some work to get it ready to fly.
All the 'ginger bread', remote starter, gear and receiver 'sold' me to buy it!
3 remote drop tanks.
Remote starter: very cool.
High quality 'linkages'.
All wood construction.
Receiver.
engine box.
Lucky everything 'fit' in my truck!
Byron F4U corsair in the back of the trailer. Has gear and needs some work. No motor but I have a 'spare'.
My kind of 'builder': He made a removable 'fire wall'.
Makes 3 F4U's now: never have too many Corsairs!
Bought a very nice fuel tank: only 20 bucks.
Last edited by samparfitt; 03-24-2023 at 12:25 PM.
04-15-2023, 09:18 AM
#3
Toledo, Ohio plane show.
April 14/15.
miles: 180.
Located at the convention hall.
The area was divided into 3 parts:
Venders: commercial
Venders: us regular guys
Fly indoor planes.
The center was divided for display items.
I walked the 'right half' and then 'came back' on the 'left half'.
Some of the 'center displays'.
Chris told me Andy past away last Fall.
This should traumatise a few toddlers during Halloween!
All 'new faces' at Robarts now!
AMA's trailer.
RC guys selling their 'excess' stuff!
Seems like I see more and more of this 'old stuff' being sold!
April 14/15.
miles: 180.
Located at the convention hall.
The area was divided into 3 parts:
Venders: commercial
Venders: us regular guys
Fly indoor planes.
The center was divided for display items.
I walked the 'right half' and then 'came back' on the 'left half'.
Some of the 'center displays'.
Chris told me Andy past away last Fall.
This should traumatise a few toddlers during Halloween!
All 'new faces' at Robarts now!
AMA's trailer.
RC guys selling their 'excess' stuff!
Seems like I see more and more of this 'old stuff' being sold!
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-15-2023 at 09:27 AM.
04-15-2023, 09:27 AM
#4
Toledo plane show (cont)
Memories:
Yup, had one of these for my Nobler which they had a kit behind the table.
Been seeing more Byron's at shows.
Used my paper route money to build and fly the rubber band models: they never did fly well but I had fun!
Center tables.
Hard to find.
Activity area.
Built a lot of the plastic models.
Favorite was the P-38.
Glue included: I'm sure it's still 'useable'!
Left side.
Someone is artistic!
Z P-40 with gear.
Center tables.
Memories:
Yup, had one of these for my Nobler which they had a kit behind the table.
Been seeing more Byron's at shows.
Used my paper route money to build and fly the rubber band models: they never did fly well but I had fun!
Center tables.
Hard to find.
Activity area.
Built a lot of the plastic models.
Favorite was the P-38.
Glue included: I'm sure it's still 'useable'!
Left side.
Someone is artistic!
Z P-40 with gear.
Center tables.
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-15-2023 at 07:03 PM.
04-15-2023, 09:42 AM
#5
Toledo, Ohio show ((cont)).
I've got one of these Phoenix 95" spits 'in the box'. Need to assemble it!
Vender area.
Didn't buy much.
Some XT-90 connectors and some OHIO maple syrup for my son's family which I went to after the show since it's only an hour 'away'.
Americana.
Toledo has restored a lot of their old buildings and has the 'Mud hens' baseball team with a really nice field.
Klinger made this place famous.
'They' actually still make and use these; nice cold water and at a very good 'price'!
Scooters for rent.
Bought 2 more pictures that my 15 year old grand daughter painted.
At only 100 bucks each, I think I got the better deal!
This one I got last year that she had displayed in the Cincinnati's Art museum for very young artists.
My daughter made this one.
I've got one of these Phoenix 95" spits 'in the box'. Need to assemble it!
Vender area.
Didn't buy much.
Some XT-90 connectors and some OHIO maple syrup for my son's family which I went to after the show since it's only an hour 'away'.
Americana.
Toledo has restored a lot of their old buildings and has the 'Mud hens' baseball team with a really nice field.
Klinger made this place famous.
'They' actually still make and use these; nice cold water and at a very good 'price'!
Scooters for rent.
Bought 2 more pictures that my 15 year old grand daughter painted.
At only 100 bucks each, I think I got the better deal!
This one I got last year that she had displayed in the Cincinnati's Art museum for very young artists.
My daughter made this one.
04-20-2023, 02:56 PM
#6
PM some of my planes:
Ziroli SBD Dauntlass.
Engine test video: RPM'S: 1250-6750.
Had to charge the batteries.
I charge each battery twice as, sometimes, I get a false reading (ie. too short of a charge cycle) once in awhile after the planes have been 'sitting' all winter.
I don't remember the right aileron having UP trim so I put it back to even with the wing and also raised the 'dive brake' flap as it seemed a little low.
I'll have to watch the 'trim' on the first flight.
Darrell's gear worked fine.
The left cowl 'flaps' needed a new servo.
Re-charging all the batteries.
A-1 Skyraider. 86"
Newly acquired from Legend Hobby.
Bought this nice fuel tank at the Dayton plane show. Only 20 bucks.
I replaced the fuel line going to the 'clunk' with my black tubing.
Charging all the batteries that are 'spare' and for the Skyraider.
Ziroli SBD Dauntlass.
Engine test video: RPM'S: 1250-6750.
Had to charge the batteries.
I charge each battery twice as, sometimes, I get a false reading (ie. too short of a charge cycle) once in awhile after the planes have been 'sitting' all winter.
I don't remember the right aileron having UP trim so I put it back to even with the wing and also raised the 'dive brake' flap as it seemed a little low.
I'll have to watch the 'trim' on the first flight.
Darrell's gear worked fine.
The left cowl 'flaps' needed a new servo.
Re-charging all the batteries.
A-1 Skyraider. 86"
Newly acquired from Legend Hobby.
Bought this nice fuel tank at the Dayton plane show. Only 20 bucks.
I replaced the fuel line going to the 'clunk' with my black tubing.
Charging all the batteries that are 'spare' and for the Skyraider.
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-21-2023 at 04:33 AM.
05-08-2023, 11:21 AM
#7
PM the warbirds (cont).
It's been cool and rainy for the last couple week but it's finally warm and in the 70's so I could get back to some PM.
TF P-47.
Checked all the servos....
and 'moving surfaces' to insure all's 'good'.
Checked the prop screws.
Added some 'light oil' to the retracts and 'cycled' them.
Took several flips on 'choke' but all's good.
Recharged the Z SBD Dauntlass and put it along with the P-47 in the trailer.
Ditto for the TF F4U Corsair.
Next is the newly acquired A-1 Skyraider.
MMMM; not sure how I'm going to transport those wings with the fragile rockets attached to them!
It's been cool and rainy for the last couple week but it's finally warm and in the 70's so I could get back to some PM.
TF P-47.
Checked all the servos....
and 'moving surfaces' to insure all's 'good'.
Checked the prop screws.
Added some 'light oil' to the retracts and 'cycled' them.
Took several flips on 'choke' but all's good.
Recharged the Z SBD Dauntlass and put it along with the P-47 in the trailer.
Ditto for the TF F4U Corsair.
Next is the newly acquired A-1 Skyraider.
MMMM; not sure how I'm going to transport those wings with the fragile rockets attached to them!
05-10-2023, 02:35 PM
#8
Back to assembling the A-1 Skyraider from Legend hobbies.
I needed to move the throttle servo from where the original owner installed it to make room for the batteries and fuel tank.
Also, I took off the wing and installed 3 batteries under the 'floor board' in the picture; 2 for the receiver and one for the ignition.
QUESTION: ON the EME 60 engine's ignition, there is a red connector and two 'normal' connectors.
One of the 'normal' connectors goes to the 'sensor' but I'm not sure if the battery connects to the other 'normal' connector or
the red connector. The red connector seems like it's for some 'monitoring' as it's only a 2 prong, 'squarish' connector
so it seems like the battery would go to the other 'normal' connector.
The manual has no info on it.
The old servo tray was removed; butchered area to the left.
The new location will be one former 'back' after I make the servo trays.
Now there's enough room for the fuel tank, 'self starter' motor battery and the 'electric' retract battery.
This is my first gear that are electric.
The Sullivan rods go along the outside for a couple of 'formers' and then go back inside the fuse to connect to the servos.
Need a choke servo; makes no sense to have a 'remote motor' starter and then have to reach into the motor area to move the choke!
Servos behind this former.
Had to cut some servo trays.
Tools of the trade:
Lots of files needed after using the scroll saw.
After drilling several holes into the 'slots' this saw came in 'handy' to remove the bulk of the remaining material.
Epoxied the 2 trays and will leave that 'cook'.
I marked the original servo parts with an 'O' that I used as a template so I didn't, accidently, epoxy it.
================================================== ==============
Ziroli F4U Corsair.
Might as well 'work' on 2 planes!
I acquired this plane two years ago.
I thought I'd fly it to insure it flew OK since it is a very old plane before re-painting it.
Well, late last season, I did something I haven't done in a loooong time; while coming 'in for a landing' I got it too slow and it dropped about 15'.
Last Fall I patched it 'up'.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Installed the G-62.
I'm used to having a DA-85 in Ziroli planes so I need to keep the 'throttle up' when landing!
One of the formers and throttle servo tray needed some epoxy.
One can see how old this plane is by the color of the wood!
=============================================
Just purchased this Byron 85" F4U at a Winter show.
Needs some TLC.
It's nice when you're scrounging around in your 'plane room' and find a G-62 that you 'forgot about'!
It will go into this plane.
Old age ain't for wimps!
Also, it's weird being the same age as old people!
I needed to move the throttle servo from where the original owner installed it to make room for the batteries and fuel tank.
Also, I took off the wing and installed 3 batteries under the 'floor board' in the picture; 2 for the receiver and one for the ignition.
QUESTION: ON the EME 60 engine's ignition, there is a red connector and two 'normal' connectors.
One of the 'normal' connectors goes to the 'sensor' but I'm not sure if the battery connects to the other 'normal' connector or
the red connector. The red connector seems like it's for some 'monitoring' as it's only a 2 prong, 'squarish' connector
so it seems like the battery would go to the other 'normal' connector.
The manual has no info on it.
The old servo tray was removed; butchered area to the left.
The new location will be one former 'back' after I make the servo trays.
Now there's enough room for the fuel tank, 'self starter' motor battery and the 'electric' retract battery.
This is my first gear that are electric.
The Sullivan rods go along the outside for a couple of 'formers' and then go back inside the fuse to connect to the servos.
Need a choke servo; makes no sense to have a 'remote motor' starter and then have to reach into the motor area to move the choke!
Servos behind this former.
Had to cut some servo trays.
Tools of the trade:
Lots of files needed after using the scroll saw.
After drilling several holes into the 'slots' this saw came in 'handy' to remove the bulk of the remaining material.
Epoxied the 2 trays and will leave that 'cook'.
I marked the original servo parts with an 'O' that I used as a template so I didn't, accidently, epoxy it.
================================================== ==============
Ziroli F4U Corsair.
Might as well 'work' on 2 planes!
I acquired this plane two years ago.
I thought I'd fly it to insure it flew OK since it is a very old plane before re-painting it.
Well, late last season, I did something I haven't done in a loooong time; while coming 'in for a landing' I got it too slow and it dropped about 15'.
Last Fall I patched it 'up'.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Installed the G-62.
I'm used to having a DA-85 in Ziroli planes so I need to keep the 'throttle up' when landing!
One of the formers and throttle servo tray needed some epoxy.
One can see how old this plane is by the color of the wood!
=============================================
Just purchased this Byron 85" F4U at a Winter show.
Needs some TLC.
It's nice when you're scrounging around in your 'plane room' and find a G-62 that you 'forgot about'!
It will go into this plane.
Old age ain't for wimps!
Also, it's weird being the same age as old people!
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-10-2023 at 02:48 PM.
05-10-2023, 04:44 PM
#9
From previous post:
QUESTION: ON the EME 60 engine's ignition, there is a red connector and two 'normal' connectors.
One of the 'normal' connectors goes to the 'sensor' but I'm not sure if the battery connects to the other 'normal' connector or
the red connector. The red connector seems like it's for some 'monitoring' as it's only a 2 prong, 'squarish' connector
so it seems like the battery would go to the other 'normal' connector.
The manual has no info on it.
UPDATE:
The red connector versus a 'normal' extension wire connector.
Looking at how the wires come out of the ignition box, the red wire is 'by itself' indicating it is connected to the battery,
plus red is the 'usual' connection to the battery.
I'll have to cut the old connector and replace it with a 'normal' connector.
QUESTION: ON the EME 60 engine's ignition, there is a red connector and two 'normal' connectors.
One of the 'normal' connectors goes to the 'sensor' but I'm not sure if the battery connects to the other 'normal' connector or
the red connector. The red connector seems like it's for some 'monitoring' as it's only a 2 prong, 'squarish' connector
so it seems like the battery would go to the other 'normal' connector.
The manual has no info on it.
UPDATE:
The red connector versus a 'normal' extension wire connector.
Looking at how the wires come out of the ignition box, the red wire is 'by itself' indicating it is connected to the battery,
plus red is the 'usual' connection to the battery.
I'll have to cut the old connector and replace it with a 'normal' connector.
05-11-2023, 04:59 PM
#10
Legend hobby A-1 Skyraider assembly and Ziroli F4U Corsair repair (2nd post).
A-1 Skyraider.
The starter battery and electric gear battery was installed.
Fun routing the Velcro through those floor slats; had to use a bent wire and surgical tongs.
YES: OLD SCHOOL yet with NIMH batteries:
1) Yes they are heavy but I checked the CG and the weight is needed so might as well have 'useful' weight!
2) The planes are in my detached shop and NIMH batteries are not affected by freezing weather.
3) Batteries can't be removed from the planes, easily, and I know the NIMH won't 'blow up'.
Purchased this nice 'ready to install' 32 oz. tank at my last plane show for only 20 bucks.
'Wrap around' tubing is for the 'overflow'.
Clunk tubing was replaced with black tubing that's not affected by gas (methanol).
Had to remove the engine to attach the fuel tubing to the carb.
One of reasons why today's 'work' took me 5 hours on this plane!
My buddy Scot Prossen taught me trick many moons ago: paper towel works great holding hex head screws.
Just enough room!
Some soft foam under the tank.
Initial trepidation with that protruding part under the 'top hatch' interfering with the tank....
All's good.
A very tight fit where the fuel tubing connects to the carb.
I may route the fill tubing through one of the exhausts.
All connections get safety clips.
Throttle and choke servos had to be installed in new locations.
This took a lot of time.
Glad I didn't just epoxy the servo tray to the ply as several adjustments had to be made to align with the Sullivan push rods.
Initially, I was going to route the push rods along the inside of the secondary wall but decided to try routing them on the outside of the secondary wall.
The mounting plate needed a hole for the servo arm.
Every part is aircraft ply so the hex head servo screws makes everything secure.
Being old I find the hex head screws are easier to install versus the supplied phillip's heads.
Mounting plate secured to the inner wall.
Also, I can remove them if their location creates a problem 'down the road' as I still need to install a tray to hold 4 switches plus 5 charging jacks!
I, usually, use ball links for all my connections but, for some reason, I'm using these connections; probably old age!
Push rods between the outer and inner walls.
The push rods were bending in one direction.....
so I reinforced it with a piece of ply.
The rod only bent in one direction so I could easily insert the ply with a 'notch' on one side so I didn't have to disassemble the push rod.
A fellow RC pilot emailed me about which ignition wires went to battery and sensor.
(thanks Tom Shafer)
I replaced the unusual battery connection with a JR connector.
The far left wires are for the battery.
Center is Tach.
Right is sensor.
Next will be deciphering all those wires!
I obtained this plane from an estate and he had a very expensive 'power safe' receiver in the plane.
I use the earlier 'power safe' receivers so there will be a 'learning curve'.
Also, I hope my old JR 11X (the one that looks like an aliens face) is compatible with this new receiver!
A-1 Skyraider.
The starter battery and electric gear battery was installed.
Fun routing the Velcro through those floor slats; had to use a bent wire and surgical tongs.
YES: OLD SCHOOL yet with NIMH batteries:
1) Yes they are heavy but I checked the CG and the weight is needed so might as well have 'useful' weight!
2) The planes are in my detached shop and NIMH batteries are not affected by freezing weather.
3) Batteries can't be removed from the planes, easily, and I know the NIMH won't 'blow up'.
Purchased this nice 'ready to install' 32 oz. tank at my last plane show for only 20 bucks.
'Wrap around' tubing is for the 'overflow'.
Clunk tubing was replaced with black tubing that's not affected by gas (methanol).
Had to remove the engine to attach the fuel tubing to the carb.
One of reasons why today's 'work' took me 5 hours on this plane!
My buddy Scot Prossen taught me trick many moons ago: paper towel works great holding hex head screws.
Just enough room!
Some soft foam under the tank.
Initial trepidation with that protruding part under the 'top hatch' interfering with the tank....
All's good.
A very tight fit where the fuel tubing connects to the carb.
I may route the fill tubing through one of the exhausts.
All connections get safety clips.
Throttle and choke servos had to be installed in new locations.
This took a lot of time.
Glad I didn't just epoxy the servo tray to the ply as several adjustments had to be made to align with the Sullivan push rods.
Initially, I was going to route the push rods along the inside of the secondary wall but decided to try routing them on the outside of the secondary wall.
The mounting plate needed a hole for the servo arm.
Every part is aircraft ply so the hex head servo screws makes everything secure.
Being old I find the hex head screws are easier to install versus the supplied phillip's heads.
Mounting plate secured to the inner wall.
Also, I can remove them if their location creates a problem 'down the road' as I still need to install a tray to hold 4 switches plus 5 charging jacks!
I, usually, use ball links for all my connections but, for some reason, I'm using these connections; probably old age!
Push rods between the outer and inner walls.
The push rods were bending in one direction.....
so I reinforced it with a piece of ply.
The rod only bent in one direction so I could easily insert the ply with a 'notch' on one side so I didn't have to disassemble the push rod.
A fellow RC pilot emailed me about which ignition wires went to battery and sensor.
(thanks Tom Shafer)
I replaced the unusual battery connection with a JR connector.
The far left wires are for the battery.
Center is Tach.
Right is sensor.
Next will be deciphering all those wires!
I obtained this plane from an estate and he had a very expensive 'power safe' receiver in the plane.
I use the earlier 'power safe' receivers so there will be a 'learning curve'.
Also, I hope my old JR 11X (the one that looks like an aliens face) is compatible with this new receiver!
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-11-2023 at 05:48 PM.
05-11-2023, 05:30 PM
#11
Ziroli F4U corsair repair (cont).
When the fire wall was damage it, also, damaged the throttle servo push rod so a new one was made.
A support guide epoxied to keep the push rod from bending.
The old tank was secured with house caulk.
Throttle linkage.
For the night, might as well charge all the batteries for tomorrow.
The usual 2 for the receiver and one for the ignition.
Taped my stool from last year when the knot on the strap holding the plane came loose and the plane moved forward while testing at home.
My 'survival instincts' 'took over' and I moved away from the plane; fortunately the engine was only on idle.
I have, since, double knotted the strap!
With Top Flite being out of 'business' for the last few years I thought it was 'useless' trying to obtain a new canopy for my TF P-47.
I googled it and found that Dino had one.
He's producing TF ARFS; cool.
Presently I have the F4U, P-47 and FW-190.
His website:
https://www.aero-accessories.com
Eat all my meals on the screened in porch during the summer.
One of the best things that I have built and still enjoy.
Today, after noon lunch, I had an unexpected 'power nap' while reading a book!
A new generation of kids in the neighborhood.
For about 10-15 years I had no Halloweeners knock on the door.
Of course, handing out ice cream bars draws them like flies!
Guess the reflexes are still pretty good: killed a fly with 'bare hands'!
Now in the 70's and 80's: time to reduce the water heater's temperature to save on fuel.
No use turning on the cold water to reduce the temp in the shower!
When the fire wall was damage it, also, damaged the throttle servo push rod so a new one was made.
A support guide epoxied to keep the push rod from bending.
The old tank was secured with house caulk.
Throttle linkage.
For the night, might as well charge all the batteries for tomorrow.
The usual 2 for the receiver and one for the ignition.
Taped my stool from last year when the knot on the strap holding the plane came loose and the plane moved forward while testing at home.
My 'survival instincts' 'took over' and I moved away from the plane; fortunately the engine was only on idle.
I have, since, double knotted the strap!
With Top Flite being out of 'business' for the last few years I thought it was 'useless' trying to obtain a new canopy for my TF P-47.
I googled it and found that Dino had one.
He's producing TF ARFS; cool.
Presently I have the F4U, P-47 and FW-190.
His website:
https://www.aero-accessories.com
Eat all my meals on the screened in porch during the summer.
One of the best things that I have built and still enjoy.
Today, after noon lunch, I had an unexpected 'power nap' while reading a book!
A new generation of kids in the neighborhood.
For about 10-15 years I had no Halloweeners knock on the door.
Of course, handing out ice cream bars draws them like flies!
Guess the reflexes are still pretty good: killed a fly with 'bare hands'!
Now in the 70's and 80's: time to reduce the water heater's temperature to save on fuel.
No use turning on the cold water to reduce the temp in the shower!
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-11-2023 at 05:52 PM.
05-12-2023, 03:22 PM
#12
F4U Corsair repair (cont).
Didn't get a lot done as I had to cut the grass and order an AC condenser for my son's Cadillac.
Worked on the wing.
The right aileron was damaged in the 'mishap' so that was reattached.
I replaced the brass wire that comes with the Dubro heavy duty hinges with a single wire.
Pushing the end into the balsa is sufficient to secure the wire.
MMMM: forgot to add rivets to the aileron!
Nothing special on the rivets: just a black magic marker: not the usual soldering iron with a piece of brass tubing!
The hinges on the center flap on the right wing were damaged.
If I'm landing with the gear up I always put the flaps up ( especially on a Corsair), but when the plane lost 'lift' 15' above the runway I didn't think of it!
Last year I told the spotter to tell the pilot to keep his flaps up for his belly landing but the pilot didn't 'listen'.
The original builder used brass tubes to secure the hinges so repair was a lot easier.
A drill bit removed the old plastic hinge.
I had some black hinges versus the usual grey ones so I used those.
Since the flaps are not removable I had to remove the rivet in the center and push each end of the hinge into it's respective hole.
A little epoxy secured them.
I used some piano wire to align them while the epoxy 'cooked'.
I'll, probably, just add a dab of epoxy on the ends of the wires to secure them to the hinges.
All functional, again.
Gear is next.
Put some small screws for the frame and plastic canopy.
The frame is metal; very impressive work whoever did it!
The original canopy had some wire attached to the frame so I added them to the new canopy.
Canopy glue used to secure the wire.
You know the plane is old when the original canopy looks like this!
This grass cutting wears me out!
Didn't get a lot done as I had to cut the grass and order an AC condenser for my son's Cadillac.
Worked on the wing.
The right aileron was damaged in the 'mishap' so that was reattached.
I replaced the brass wire that comes with the Dubro heavy duty hinges with a single wire.
Pushing the end into the balsa is sufficient to secure the wire.
MMMM: forgot to add rivets to the aileron!
Nothing special on the rivets: just a black magic marker: not the usual soldering iron with a piece of brass tubing!
The hinges on the center flap on the right wing were damaged.
If I'm landing with the gear up I always put the flaps up ( especially on a Corsair), but when the plane lost 'lift' 15' above the runway I didn't think of it!
Last year I told the spotter to tell the pilot to keep his flaps up for his belly landing but the pilot didn't 'listen'.
The original builder used brass tubes to secure the hinges so repair was a lot easier.
A drill bit removed the old plastic hinge.
I had some black hinges versus the usual grey ones so I used those.
Since the flaps are not removable I had to remove the rivet in the center and push each end of the hinge into it's respective hole.
A little epoxy secured them.
I used some piano wire to align them while the epoxy 'cooked'.
I'll, probably, just add a dab of epoxy on the ends of the wires to secure them to the hinges.
All functional, again.
Gear is next.
Put some small screws for the frame and plastic canopy.
The frame is metal; very impressive work whoever did it!
The original canopy had some wire attached to the frame so I added them to the new canopy.
Canopy glue used to secure the wire.
You know the plane is old when the original canopy looks like this!
This grass cutting wears me out!
05-13-2023, 02:00 PM
#13
PM the Ziroli F4U Corsair (cont).
Another day where I was busy working on my son's vehicle so not a lot 'done' on the F4U.
Installed the two 3000MA batteries for the receiver.
A 'cover plate' keeps them secure.
Turned on the transmitter to check 'moving surfaces' on the fuse. One side of the elevator needed adjusting.
Some air tubing to protect the antenna on the JR 'power safe' receiver.
Tail wheel re-attached and repaired one broken door hinge.
Changed the oil and detailed the interior of my son's Cadillac that is 16 years old with about 114,000 miles.
Another day where I was busy working on my son's vehicle so not a lot 'done' on the F4U.
Installed the two 3000MA batteries for the receiver.
A 'cover plate' keeps them secure.
Turned on the transmitter to check 'moving surfaces' on the fuse. One side of the elevator needed adjusting.
Some air tubing to protect the antenna on the JR 'power safe' receiver.
Tail wheel re-attached and repaired one broken door hinge.
Changed the oil and detailed the interior of my son's Cadillac that is 16 years old with about 114,000 miles.
05-20-2023, 10:44 AM
#14
Ziroli F4U Corsair (cont).
Been busy with my son's vehicle and yardwork but able to get back to the Corsair.
Used some household caulk to secure the tank into the fuse.
One of the gear mounts was loose so some epoxy fixed that.
used the gear to hold the wood mount in 'place' while the epoxy 'cooked'.
Figure I might as well lubricate the 'O' rings while the gear is 'out'.
Some adjusting of the 'toe in' was needed.
Gear secured.
My 20 year old heat gun's motor quit so I bought a new one.
I like the really long cord on it so I don't need an extension cord to use it.
That should 'last' until I 'croak'!
Made all the 'wire' and 'air' connections and checked that all moving surfaces functioned correctly.
Gear UP.
and down.
Idiot: the engine wouldn't start.
Disconnected the 'kill switch', took plug out and added fuel, put in a new plug.......
Forgot that it is 'spring started'!
Nice low RPM's at around 1900 but the high was too high at 6900.
Got a CF 22X10 and those are, usually, very efficient.
Will have to try a larger prop as I like around 6500 RPM's.
================================
New AC condenser in my son's Cadillac CTS.
Been busy with my son's vehicle and yardwork but able to get back to the Corsair.
Used some household caulk to secure the tank into the fuse.
One of the gear mounts was loose so some epoxy fixed that.
used the gear to hold the wood mount in 'place' while the epoxy 'cooked'.
Figure I might as well lubricate the 'O' rings while the gear is 'out'.
Some adjusting of the 'toe in' was needed.
Gear secured.
My 20 year old heat gun's motor quit so I bought a new one.
I like the really long cord on it so I don't need an extension cord to use it.
That should 'last' until I 'croak'!
Made all the 'wire' and 'air' connections and checked that all moving surfaces functioned correctly.
Gear UP.
and down.
Idiot: the engine wouldn't start.
Disconnected the 'kill switch', took plug out and added fuel, put in a new plug.......
Forgot that it is 'spring started'!
Nice low RPM's at around 1900 but the high was too high at 6900.
Got a CF 22X10 and those are, usually, very efficient.
Will have to try a larger prop as I like around 6500 RPM's.
================================
New AC condenser in my son's Cadillac CTS.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-20-2023 at 10:48 AM.
05-22-2023, 12:38 PM
#15
Ziroli F4U Corsair (cont).
Final (almost; need to mount the front gear doors) assembly.
Had to drill/tap holes for the sliding canopy.
Closed.
Open.
Lead weight box screwed back onto the fire wall.
Ready to 'rock-n-roll'!
I think I'll leave this prop on the plane that gives me about 6900 RPM's as this plane was, in the past, a little sluggish with just a G-62 on a 93" plane.
Final (almost; need to mount the front gear doors) assembly.
Had to drill/tap holes for the sliding canopy.
Closed.
Open.
Lead weight box screwed back onto the fire wall.
Ready to 'rock-n-roll'!
I think I'll leave this prop on the plane that gives me about 6900 RPM's as this plane was, in the past, a little sluggish with just a G-62 on a 93" plane.
05-24-2023, 04:14 AM
#16
May 23: first time 'out' flying this season.
A great day at 83 degrees and low 'winds'.
Landing area is long enough, even for me!
300' of Geotech for the 'electric' guys.
Doug and I with our warbirds.
'First time out' I fly my 13 year old SBD Dauntless: something easy to fly to begin the 'season'.
A great day at 83 degrees and low 'winds'.
Landing area is long enough, even for me!
300' of Geotech for the 'electric' guys.
Doug and I with our warbirds.
'First time out' I fly my 13 year old SBD Dauntless: something easy to fly to begin the 'season'.
The following users liked this post:
aghost (05-24-2023)
05-24-2023, 08:39 AM
#17
Stuff:
Stopped at Home Depot and picked up enough oil that should last this season.
A couple new stakes to hold my planes while starting them.
Had to get a new battery for my 'air compressor'. The old battery charged but would 'loose power' after only 2 'tank fills'.
The guy at batteriesPlus said they 'decay' over time. This one was 3 years old.
I get oil that's JASO approved as it keeps 'carbon' from 'building up', etc.
Air compressor all 'better'!
Epoxied the gear mount on the SBD Dauntless that I noticed the rib 'broke loose' from the mount during yesterday's 'disassembly'.
Stopped at Home Depot and picked up enough oil that should last this season.
A couple new stakes to hold my planes while starting them.
Had to get a new battery for my 'air compressor'. The old battery charged but would 'loose power' after only 2 'tank fills'.
The guy at batteriesPlus said they 'decay' over time. This one was 3 years old.
I get oil that's JASO approved as it keeps 'carbon' from 'building up', etc.
Air compressor all 'better'!
Epoxied the gear mount on the SBD Dauntless that I noticed the rib 'broke loose' from the mount during yesterday's 'disassembly'.
The following users liked this post:
aghost (05-24-2023)
05-25-2023, 11:06 AM
#18
Ziroli F4U Corsair (final small details).
Since I didn't build this plane that would have had an 'access hatch' I secured the ON/OFF switch inside the fuse and 'ran' a piano wire
to the switch.
Nothing fancy but no visible switches on the outside of the fuse.
I set the switch so pushing IN turns the receiver ON in case the wire gets 'hit' accidentally.
I had to repair one of the front doors.
Some Dubro heavy duty nylon hinges secures the doors to the wing.
It appears that at 'one time' the previous owner had the side doors functional on this plane.
I have some aluminum hub wheels but not for a Corsair.
Some piano wire secures the front door to the gear although 'wind' could be used to close them.
Charging 'jacks' were installed on the bottom of the wing so they are not visible when viewed on the ground.
I've learned a 'long time ago'; always make the air and charging jacks 'modular' for easy removal and servicing!
I would have, also, put the ON/OFF switch here but with JR's 'power safe' receivers, the receiver defaults to ON when the switch fails (or is disconnected).
Since I didn't build this plane that would have had an 'access hatch' I secured the ON/OFF switch inside the fuse and 'ran' a piano wire
to the switch.
Nothing fancy but no visible switches on the outside of the fuse.
I set the switch so pushing IN turns the receiver ON in case the wire gets 'hit' accidentally.
I had to repair one of the front doors.
Some Dubro heavy duty nylon hinges secures the doors to the wing.
It appears that at 'one time' the previous owner had the side doors functional on this plane.
I have some aluminum hub wheels but not for a Corsair.
Some piano wire secures the front door to the gear although 'wind' could be used to close them.
Charging 'jacks' were installed on the bottom of the wing so they are not visible when viewed on the ground.
I've learned a 'long time ago'; always make the air and charging jacks 'modular' for easy removal and servicing!
I would have, also, put the ON/OFF switch here but with JR's 'power safe' receivers, the receiver defaults to ON when the switch fails (or is disconnected).
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-25-2023 at 11:16 AM.
06-03-2023, 12:44 PM
#24
Americana
New Carlisle, Ohio whereas one of my clubs is in Carlisle, Ohio.
I noticed that the 'Brits' comment that we are patriotic; YUP, always lots of flags, especially with July 4 just around the 'corner'.
Old fashion 'drive in'.
There were a 'lot of these' back in the 50's and 60's.
Old railroad bridge now a bike path.
Gravel processing industry.
New Carlisle, Ohio whereas one of my clubs is in Carlisle, Ohio.
I noticed that the 'Brits' comment that we are patriotic; YUP, always lots of flags, especially with July 4 just around the 'corner'.
Old fashion 'drive in'.
There were a 'lot of these' back in the 50's and 60's.
Old railroad bridge now a bike path.
Gravel processing industry.
06-04-2023, 09:52 AM
#25
One more plane PM'ed.
TF 86.5" F4U Corsair with an electronic G-62 engine.
All moving surfaces and servos checked.
'3 piece' wing.
4 screws per wing: 2 on top and 2 on the bottom.
When I don't use the 'easy connect' connectors, I use the yellow 'safety clips' to secure the 'wires'
plus the 'yellow' makes them easy to 'locate'.
Only a few flips on choke and she 'started right up'.
Forgot the RPM's but around 6,600 RPM's.
I'm finding I fly the ARF stuff at the 'field' and the 'home made' stuff at meets:
1) they are 'lighter' so easier on my 'body' when 'lifting them'
2) More 'power per plane' so can do more aerobatics.
Foam keeps the retracts off the trailer's floor to prevent 'excess wear'.
TF 86.5" F4U Corsair with an electronic G-62 engine.
All moving surfaces and servos checked.
'3 piece' wing.
4 screws per wing: 2 on top and 2 on the bottom.
When I don't use the 'easy connect' connectors, I use the yellow 'safety clips' to secure the 'wires'
plus the 'yellow' makes them easy to 'locate'.
Only a few flips on choke and she 'started right up'.
Forgot the RPM's but around 6,600 RPM's.
I'm finding I fly the ARF stuff at the 'field' and the 'home made' stuff at meets:
1) they are 'lighter' so easier on my 'body' when 'lifting them'
2) More 'power per plane' so can do more aerobatics.
Foam keeps the retracts off the trailer's floor to prevent 'excess wear'.
