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Old 06-21-2024, 04:39 PM
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CY A6M Zero and Black Horse Gilmore racer (84.5")
========
I only did one item on the A6M zero.
Cut some brass rod to secure the outer wings to the inner wings.
I'll, probably, glue a dowel rod and brass tube as a gun on the end of the rod.
Tom Shafer was 'kind enough' to inform me that my engine is a Fuji 86 CC engine.





=====================
Black Horse Gilmore racer 84.5".
One more plane I acquired at last Fall's estate auction.

Epoxied and glassed the inside of one 'gear pant' that was 'splitting at the seams'.



Inside view.



Nice main gear and not just a 'piece of wire'.



Installing a G-62 in this plane so:
Had some G-62's that got damaged last year due to a bad transmitter battery

Removed salvaged parts; ie carb, muffler, magneto and 'spring starter'.
Had to use some 'heat' to remove the spring starter 'center tube'.



I think this may be beyond repair!!!



Another G-62 with electronic ignition that needed a carb spacer.



The other G-62 I got at the estate auction and just noticed that the engine is brand new and never used so using this one in the Gilmore.
I like magneto; no battery to 'worry about'!
I've got each and haven't noticed any difference in 'performance'.



Inside of the cylinder head.



New engine mount plate.
Bought these about 10 years ago as 'spares'.



Spring starter added.



Metal back plate added.
Going to need all the weight possible with such a short 'nose' on this plane.



Need 8" for the prop to clear the cowl so lots of 'fire wall'.
Cut and screwed a 1/2" thick multi-ply to the original fire wall.
The 2nd piece of fire wall is a 'template' to insure the engine is off set enough to be in the center of the front of the cowl.



Will need a lot of 'washers' to have the correct 'off set'.



This metal plate will replace the 2nd wood template.



Here is the other electronic G-62 that I thought about using.



The inside of the cowl.
Guess the original owner was going to put a 3 cylinder engine in this plane.
I had to 'butcher it up' so the G-62 would 'fit'.



'Dry fit'.






Guess I should read this!


===================
Also, charged the batteries in the Z F6F Hellcat.




Last edited by samparfitt; 06-21-2024 at 04:54 PM.
Old 06-22-2024, 01:19 PM
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Black Horse Gilmore 84.5" racer ARF. (cont).

This morning I went to Carolyn park in Dayton, Ohio for their train fest.
This afternoon, I 'worked' on the Gilmore.

Needed to drill 2 recesses in the aluminum plate for the bolt heads that protrude on the 1/2" thick ply fire wall.
A carbide forstner bit 'worked'.



Used the aluminum plate to drill the 4 holes to secure the aluminum plate to the 1/2" thick ply firewall.
These 4 holes are for the engines mounting plate.



Had to move the bottom right bolt to the left so it wouldn't interfere with the engine mounting holes.
The aluminum plate is to the right of the 2 left black bolts so no recesses were needed for those bolts.
Four blind nuts (T nuts) were inserted on the back of the 1/2" thick ply fire wall.



TA DA!



The 4 small black bolts hold the aluminum plate to the fire wall so it's easier to install the washers to the engine mounting plate without having the aluminum plate 'moving around'.



Washers added to give right and down thrust.
The metal plates insure no distortion of the engine which could cause internal wear.



Two of the 4 small black bolts holding the aluminum plate to the fire wall.



Muffler.
Drilled out the metal behind where the nuts are located in those slots so the bolts can be tightened without having to add a bunch of washers to get the correct 'length'.



A very old muffler but functional.
Guess I could paint it with some heat resistant paint!
Has a tube so I can add 'smoke'.






Had to use the Dremel to remove some of the cowling for the exhaust.






Prop will 'clear' the cowl.



MMMM: those 'pants' are, probably, too low to the ground and will 'catch the grass'!



The manual has the elevator servos under the cockpit (the usual spot).
I favor 'short linkages' so I like what the previous owner did!
The CG is 3.54" from the LE and 'just using my fingers' for a 'guestimate' and it's close.
With 2 batteries, tank, throttle/choke servos, should be 'good'.



Next to install throttle/choke servos.



'poster' pictures!






Last edited by samparfitt; 06-22-2024 at 01:26 PM.
Old 06-23-2024, 11:32 AM
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Black Hawk Gilmore 84.5" racer assembly (cont).

Took around 6 hours just to install a B&B specialties 'double linkage' which converts horizontal movement to vertical movement,
which is needed for the G-62's throttle and choke.
Again, purchased this part about 10 years ago.

Holes for the 'push rods'.



Drilled/tapped 4/40 hole for the 'double linkage' screw in the side of the engine mounting plate.



Double linkage attached to the engine mounting plate.



A Dremel used to grind off the brass end shaft that holds the control horns that will be replaced with the 'double linkage' control horns.



Tapped 2/56 for the ball link to the Sullivan 'easy connects'.



Ball links attached.



About a 3/32" of metal removed for control rod clearance.



The control rods were not aligning with the 2 holes in the fire wall so I had to make a 1/4" thick metal plate to move the 'double linkage' to the left.
Used a damaged engine mounting plate for 'parts'.
Before using my power tools, I ask myself is this a 'safe move'; plyers to hold the part plus gloves.



A slow process.
Drill/tap center hole and align it with the existing hole in the engine mounting plate.
Drill all 4 'corner' holes, one at a time with screw in the last hole to insure next hole is accurate.



An 1/8"X1/4" piece along each side to raise the plate a 1/4".
Again each hole drilled/tapped, one at a time, screw inserted and do the next hole.



Insured no interference with 'spring starter' plus 'blow out' any metal particles.



Sullivan 'easy connects' attached and engine back on the fire wall.






Had to remove one plate screw as it was interfering with the 'linkage'.



Next: install servos for throttle and choke and cut control rods to length.



============
Flying tomorrow.
Got the Skyraider charged and maiden the new P-40.
Getting lazy: the Skyraider has remote engine starter.





Old 06-24-2024, 11:10 AM
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Flying at the local field.
Excellent weather. low winds and cool in the morning on the 7:30 AM arrival.





Can't 'win'!
Gear on the Skyraider broke when testing them on the 'ground': My first electric retracts so I hope I can repair it.



Plane wouldn't 'bind': both batteries were 'low'.








Still June and over 8' high!



Old 06-24-2024, 01:44 PM
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Legend hobbies A-1 Skyraider.
Robart actuator came apart while 'ground testing it'.

For the last 25 years I've used air retracts and this is my first set of electric retracts.
Any help on a repair would be appreciated.
I've sent an email to Robart inquiring about it.
thanks.











Old 06-24-2024, 02:08 PM
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Did some research and found this disassembled actuator.
It appears that part of the large 'collar' broke off from the shaft (tube).
There is a set screw on the smaller part of the collar that connects the large tube to the motor shaft.
The large tube screws onto the inner threaded shaft which makes this assumption a logical deduction.
There is a 'burn mark' on my parts.
This 'burn mark' is only on one spot: that appears to be where the 'weld' was made.
In this case, it seems like there should have been at least 2 weld spots to secure the collar to the tube.
This also explains why I saw the actuator wobbling when I first obtained the plane; it was partial coming apart
and functioned until that weld broke.
The motor mechanism still works.
1) now I need to figure out how to disassemble the actuator
2) guessing Robart won't just sell me that one part but will have to buy a new actuator.


Inspecting the two broken parts it appears the collar slides into the tube about 3/32" in which case, if I can disassemble it,
it seems like some JB weld, applied sparingly, would secure the 2 parts!

The end cap that has 2 wires coming out of it is either screwed on or 'force fit'.
If that cap could be removed it seems the entire mechanism will just 'slide out'.

Before I start 'butchering up' the casing I will wait for Robarts response plus any on this thread.
Looking at the picture it appears the owner cut the outer casing in half as mine is one solid tube which seems like he destroyed that part.

I also found what appears to be a replacement motor that a pilot used in his retracts:
Amazon Amazon



Last edited by samparfitt; 06-24-2024 at 02:34 PM.
Old 06-25-2024, 02:39 PM
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Lengend hobbies A-1 Skyraider.
Mike at Robart said I need a new actuator and gave me the part number.
Will try to fix the old one for a 'back up'.

===============
Black Horse Gilmore 84.5" racer (cont).
Receiver installation.
Put two 3,000ma 5 cell battery packs against the back fire wall which should help the CG.




Receiver on the lower level tray.
Sullivan's smoke pump (red box) dry fitted.




The tank for the smoke is rotated 90 degrees to fit the 2nd former opening.



Binded the receiver to the transmitter.
Ailerons and elevator are only suppose to be 0.6 inches ( per manual) so 'adjustment' needed.






Rudder is suppose to be 0.8 inches.



Was going to install the 'plumbing' but out of 'gas stoppers' and ordered 6 from Tower Hobbies.



Soldered a 'barb' on the clunk tubing.



Dry fit.
CG is only 3.5" from LE so tanks are, virtually, over the CG.
Had to, temporarily, remove the throttle and choke servos to install the tanks.


Last edited by samparfitt; 06-25-2024 at 02:49 PM.
Old 06-26-2024, 11:34 AM
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Legend hobbies A-1 Skyraider.
While 'waiting' for my new actuator to arrive from Robart thought I'd try repairing the 'broken one'.

Broken electric gear actuator.
1st method failed, went to method 2!

Actuator disassembly.
The end cap came off easily as it was just a 'force fit'.



I thought the inner mechanism would slide out the 'cap end' but I had to remove a 'C' ring on the other end.



One of my 'scribing points' removed the 'C' ring.



The motor was removed via a set screw so as to not damage it.



The two parts that 'mate' are grooved.



I figured I could clean up the mating surface and press fit them 'back together'.





A vice used to press the two parts together.



This was my dad's grinder back in the 50' using a washing machine motor for 'power'.
Stull functional after only 70 years



JB weld to secure the 2 parts.



Before 'complete' assembly, I tested it via the 'retract controller'.



Put the actuator on the gear but it failed in one direction; too much force is applied in one direction and separated the 2 parts.
Interesting in that there is only one tiny weld spot on the 2 parts where they meet.
This actuator was wobbling before it broke.
I'm guessing one side 'broke free' causing the wobble and, eventually, the welded side broke.
Will be interesting to see if the new actuator has 2 weld spots indicating that the old one was defective since it only had one weld spot!



Method 2.
After another disassembly, the bearing needed to be removed to better connect the 2 parts.



I thought the bearing was a 'force fit' but there is a 'C' ring to secure it to the shaft.
Hopefully I didn't damage the 'C' ring!
Glad I did this on the floor on a light blue carpet as the 'C' ring was easy to see!



There is so much force applied that the ridges are 'ground down'.
I pressed fitted the 2 parts and took it to my auto mechanic and having him weld 2 spots (180 degrees apart) between the 2 parts.
I'll have to use the Dremel to grind down any excess.
See 'what happens'!
'Never say die; at least not yet'!


Last edited by samparfitt; 06-26-2024 at 11:43 AM.
Old 06-27-2024, 06:05 PM
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A great day; got 2 free meals.
OH YES and did planes and trains Too!

It 'pays' to be 'helpless and or pathetic': neighbors bring you food
Also went to a railroader's house and he 'fed me'.








At one of my local club's field.
Nice clear, calm day.











Later was 'vintage flyers' time so I 'headed home' after taking a few pictures.







Still trying to get the maiden on the P-40.
Had bubbles in the fuel lines.



At home found the 'T' fitting was too small for the fuel line so inserted a larger 'T'.
Tested and all's 'good'.







Gilmore racer assembly (cont).

In my opinion I think the supplied wheels are too short and will 'snag' the grass and flip the plane 'over'.
I had this same problem with the P-6E Hawk and always had to land on pavement.
I've decided to lengthen the gear and install larger wheels.

Cut some aluminum stock for the 'extensions'.
About 5/8" X 2 3/4"



To be 'consistent' on all the screw holes, 1/4" from edge and 1 1/4" to next hole.



Holes slightly larger than the 6/32 screws that will be used.



Drilled/tapped the original gear for 6/32 screws.



After the one side had 2 screws and the other side had one screw at the top, I laid the gear on a flat surface to insure both 'extensions' are parallel to each other and drill the last hole.



All parts 'labeled' since none will be exactly the same.









Drill a hole for a 1/4/20 bolt as an axle for the wheel.
Used some 'left over' TF F4U wheels.
Much better than the original wheels.



Due to the weight of the plane, the original wheels would 'recess' quite a bit.



The bottom 6/32 screws are only a 1/4" long but didn't have enough for all the holes so used longer ones at the top but they don't interfere with the wheel.
Need 3 washers on each side of the wheel for alignment.



One 'done' one 'to go'.


Last edited by samparfitt; 06-27-2024 at 06:15 PM.
Old 06-28-2024, 05:25 PM
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Another good day to be at the 'field'.
Warm but low winds.















Really nice 'mod' to a nose gear for a T-28.



Old 06-28-2024, 05:49 PM
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Maiden the P-40 but lots of problems.
Took off nice and flew well (versus good) with only a few clicks on the ailerons.
Big problems on landing.
Sever dive when even partial flaps added.
Lucky only one oleo got bent at the axle location.
================
Gilmore gear modification (cont).

Front and rear gear assembly removed from wing.



Part of the one 'pant' needed some FG cloth and epoxy.



New bolt cut at an appropriate length.



Easier for me if I don't have to hold the item I'm 'cutting'!



The bolt holding the front and rear gear assembly needs to be shorten so it doesn't interfere with the wheel.
A 'set number of washers and bolts' insure all of the cuts are the 'same' with a Dremel cut off disk.



With the front gear assembly being wider with an additional piece of metal, the back gear assembly needed to be 'widened'.



One complete gear finished.



Both done.



The new wheels should work much better in the grass than the old wheels plus I don't think the old wheels would have 'lasted very long'.



Front of the wheel pants enlarged for the new wheels.



A 'certain sequence' was needed to install the gear and the wheel pants at the same time.
The inside of the pants are too narrow to install after the gear is 'installed'.

The gear is put in 'sideways' into the pants.





The gear can then be attached to the wing.



Front and back gear.



Upper part of pants can be secured to wing.
To make the 2 parts of the pants removable they have to be taped together and not glued.
For now, tape was used.
Not sure if I have a better 'solution'.




Front and back gear are then screwed together with 6/32 bolts.



I had to drill a hole on each side of the pants to attached the 6/32 bolt.



These bolts prevent the oleos from functioning as they are in the pant holes and prevent movement of the oleo.



Replaced them with button head bolts.






Clearance with no 'compression'.



Oleo compressed.



Gear completed.
The wheels 'stick out' of the pants but it's better than having the plane 'flip over' in the grass and damaging the fuse and/or vertical stab.



8 pm. Time to put stuff away for the 'night'.
My actuator for the Skyraider arrived today from Robart.


Last edited by samparfitt; 06-28-2024 at 05:55 PM.
Old 06-29-2024, 11:33 AM
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Black Horse 84.5 Gilmore Racer assembly (cont).
Tanks installed and initial engine test.

Both tanks (fuel and smoke) are rotated 90 degrees to fit the hole in the 2nd former.



Spring used to bend the brass tube without 'kinking' the tubing.



Fuel line barbs used (wrong package shown).



Vent tube filed at an angle to insure fuel flow if it touches the top of the tank.



Read to install.
The viton tubing stays 'flexible' and the brass tubing to the clunk to help keep the clunk from 'folding on itself'.



Marked 'vent' and 'carb' plus 'direction' as I'll 'forget'!



Bummer. The wing retaining bolts are right under the tanks. Not sure why they put them there as it would still be difficult to insert them with just one tank in the center!
Will have to modify fuse and wing and put the bolts at the back of the wing.
Thinking about it; it is best to have the bolts at the front due to leading edge wind pressure.



Smoke oil tank completed.



Only about a 16 or 20 oz. tank for the smoke oil as no 'room' for anything larger.



Tanks installed as well as the throttle/choke servos.



Fuel tubing connected to engine.



Smoke oil tubing will go into the brass tube in the muffler.



The new G-62 engine started easily with around 6,400 RPM's on a Xoar 22X10 prop.
Started to rain so no time for a 'video'.



Thinking I can use some clear window caulk to put 2 'dabs' on each side of the pants and remove the tape.
The clear caulk is easy to cut for any future PM.


Last edited by samparfitt; 06-29-2024 at 11:40 AM.
Old 06-30-2024, 02:59 PM
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Gilmore racer assembly (cont).
Another 8 hours spent on this plane.
Of course working out by the detached shop and having to go into the house where one bedroom has all my plane supplies plus the soldering station in the basement doesn't 'help' on 'time'!
Good day: So busy I forgot to eat. Down to 188.0 lbs.

Video:
First engine test of this new G-62.
Impressive 6,700 RPMS on a Xoar 22X10.

Had to make some 'Y' connectors where one end has a female and a male end for charging the batteries to the Spektrum 'Power safe' receiver.



Bought 2700 ma batteries but they sent the wrong ones at 720 ma and they said 'just keep them'.
It just occurred to me I might as well use them on the smoke system.
Should be enough 'juice' but 'if not' no 'harm done'.



Service tray made and installed.
Receiver, smoke and the two charging ports for the batteries plus the 'binding' port.



Secured the 'fill' and 'vent' fuel tubes.



Since I cannot access the internal bolts to secure the wings to the fuse I'll use the 'traditional' method via the wing tube.
Marked where the tube is located on the wing.



One wing wasn't 'seating' all the 'way'; found the yellow smoke tubing 'hanging down'.



I'm glad I checked to insure the wings are completely 'seated'!



Acquired this plane at an estate auction and it was, mostly, completed so it hasn't had the wings 'off'.
It occurred to me that the wing tube is going to rotate so I need to secure it to the fuse.
I'll find out later if I can leave the wing tube in the fuse during 'transport' or have to remove it due to 'space limitations'.
Drilled/tapped.



Marked the outside of the fuse by the wing tube so I can, easily, align the tube to the fuse should I have to screw that fuse bolt to the tube!



Marked where the wings are flush with the fuse to insure the wings didn't move while drilling holes for the wing bolts.
Drilled/tapped for 6/32 bolts.



CG check.



As Curly would say: poifect.
How often does that happen!
The cowl is light so it'll be a little nose heavy.



The 'spring starter' was 'catching' so I cleaned up the bearings and added new grease.



All seems 'better' now.



Will be mixing the gear (where the smoke unit is) to the throttle.
Will need to do some research on setting this up.
Had it on my Nieuport 28.



Prep to apply clear silicone caulk.
Tape to contain the caulk as when I do bath tubs.



3 dabs should 'do it'.
That should make it easy to cut should any repair be 'needed'.




With only one center bolt; 2 pins used to prevent any prop 'slippage'.



Ready for the 'maiden'.
Cowl is 'dry fitted'.
Will fly 'maiden' without cowl.







One more 'down'.



Last edited by samparfitt; 06-30-2024 at 03:08 PM.
Old 07-01-2024, 02:37 PM
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Gilmore racer prep'ed for tomorrow's maiden.

Charged the batteries.
Not 'bad' on the wing tube; will leave it attached to the fuse.



Labeled the wing tube for future removal.



Fits in the trailer.



With no retracts, no wing bags for these wings!



The new retaining wing bolts.



About a decade ago, while staying with Scott Prossen, we visited Frank's shop and he gave me a box of 'out of date' CA.
Guess I should have used it 'sooner'!


Memories:

11 years ago.






Darrell's gear to the 164" P-47











Last edited by samparfitt; 07-01-2024 at 02:53 PM.
Old 07-01-2024, 03:09 PM
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A few more:






























Last edited by samparfitt; 07-01-2024 at 04:37 PM.
Old 07-02-2024, 02:56 PM
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2 maidens and more PM on the Gilmore.
More nice weather at the 'field'.



Doug maiden his CY F4U Corsair 96".

















Gilmore maiden videos:
Takeoff:

Landing:









Engine started 'spitting' in the air so landed quickly.
Without the cowl attached was easy to see 'air bubbles' in the fuel line.

The fuel line was too big for the 1/8" diameter brass tubing in the fuel tank.

After the 'repair' double check no air leaks in some water.



I put arrows on the tanks so I don't install them 'upside down'; I installed it upside down .
Was wondering why the fuel was coming out of the 'vent tube' so quickly!




Secured the cowl to the fuse via the 6 mounting studs.
Initially, I made a 'mark' 2" from the studs so I could, easily, drill holes and install wood screws.
I prefer machine screws with 'blind nuts' but unable to 'do so' with these studs.









Need to set up the 'smoke system' next plus a few more flights



Some thin CA in the stud holes.



Interesting: Black Horse cut small lines (kerfs) in the back of the balsa so easier to form around compound curves; something I've done with my wood working.



Last edited by samparfitt; 07-02-2024 at 05:40 PM.
Old 07-03-2024, 11:37 AM
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Gilmore racer, P-40 and Skyraider.


Gilmore racer assembly (cont).

The 'leaking' muffler needed some silicone sealer.



The 'smoke oil' tube to the muffler needed some JB weld.



Put some white paint around the mounting holes hoping it will help alignment when installing the cowl.



The cowl mounts seem to be made with a soft wood so I 'tie wrapped' each one plus some caulk to, hopefully, keep them from 'cracking'.



Cowl was mounted but...



due to the short 'fuse' in front of the wing, the cowl rests on my plane support and the bottom of the cowl 'folding in' but it did 'pop out'.
Figure some heavy duty FG cloth will re-enforce that area.



Finishing resin used on the cowl.






I plan to assemble the wings with the fuse 'upside down' but 'in case I forget'!



==================
Black Horse P-40 PM (cont).
After the first flight one of the control rods 'came loose' so had to land with only one aileron.



Some 4/40 nuts 'added'.



WHAT AN IDIOT!
On the maiden, when landing put the flaps down but the plane went into a severe dive.
I've never had such an experience.
Back home, I went into the 'flap system' to put in UP elevator when flaps are deployed and found this.
The elevator had 50% 'down' with mid-point flaps and 70% 'down' with full flaps.
I copied the TF P-47 as a 'basis' for this P-40 and didn't check this option.
I remember, way back, the TF P-47 would severely climb when flaps were deployed so these parameters were the 'solution'.
The TF P-47 is the only plane that I've ever needed to mix in elevator with the flaps.



I changed the parameters to this but will, probably, make the elevator all zeros instead of 'up' 10 and 15%.



Re-balanced and just a 'hair' nose heavy.



==============================
New actuators arrived from Robart for the A-1 Skyraider electric gear.



Will work on that next.


Last edited by samparfitt; 07-03-2024 at 01:34 PM.
Old 07-03-2024, 01:47 PM
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Legend hobby's A-1 Skyraider electric gear actuator install.

It's finally raining at 5:30; It was suppose rain around noon but I kept 'working on planes' until the weather got 'wet' although it has been hot.


While researching the plane I found a pilot that found these motor mechanisms so I bought the last 2 from the seller; which are for the actuators.



The pin did not fit inside one end of the actuator by a very small 'margin' but a drill bit fixed that.



One end of actuator in gear.



The other end gets 2 screws.



Spare actuator parts.



video of the gear operating:

One more plane ready to fly.



Next will either be the Ziroli F4U or the CY Zero.


Old 07-05-2024, 01:35 PM
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A6M Zero, 91" WS from CY.
Another acquired at last Fall's estate auction.

This plane has been flown so best to check the tank.

Tank PM.

Original 'set up'.



Tank 'stoppers' arrived for 'replacements'.



Original tank. At least a 42 oz. size.
MMMM: glad I removed the clunk!



The previous owner liked to glued everything so part of the tank tray came out when the tank was removed.



I'm glad the tray did 'come out' as there is room for batteries under the tray.
Also, the tray is very thin light ply.
Ripped out the remaining part of the tray and taped it together to make a paper template.



Had to file the 'slots' for the tray as I'm using 3/32" thick aircraft ply that is thicker than the original tray.
Not easy to 'file' in a 'tight space'.



The former that supports the back of the tray has the cockpit there so a cut off disk in a Dremel was used to enlarge the slot.



Paper template.



I cut the template in half so the right half will be 'glued in' while the left half will be 'screwed in' to gain access to the batteries.



3/32" thick ply.



Made lots of slots in the tray to secure the tank/s.







An inch was added to the left side tray to overlap the right tray side so be able to screw the two together.



Dry fit.



Replaced the original tank with a 32 oz. and the right one is a 16 oz. for 'smoke'.



Never seen this 'design' for the original tank and it's 'stopper'.


Last edited by samparfitt; 07-05-2024 at 01:59 PM.
Old 07-05-2024, 01:51 PM
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A6M Zero by CY (cont).

Actually, I did this 'work' this morning and the previous post this afternoon, which I 'forgot about'.
Have to separate the two posts as this web site only allows 24 pictures per post.

May replace the carb as the original doesn't have a choke.
'May' as I'll have to see if it's 'feasible' as there is 'little room' for a servo.
New choke 'top' in picture.
I was informed that this is a Fuji 86CC twin.



I've never seen a carb without at least the holes in it for the choke shaft!
New choke is 'left' in picture.



Rods are used to secure the outer wings to the inner wing.
There were 'missing' at the auction so I used some brass rod.
For guns some tubing and wood dowels.



CA'ed the wood dowels in the tubing and drilled out a center hole in the wood.



Guide holes in the wing supports.



New guns.



Had to make some 'Y' extensions.



I'm guessing the gear were made by CY.
They seem sturdy.







Bottom of the wing.



Top of the wing.




Dry fitted the receiver and adjusted all the moving surfaces, save the flaps; those still need some adjustment.
The gear 'cycled' well including the tail gear.


Last edited by samparfitt; 07-05-2024 at 02:26 PM.
Old 07-06-2024, 03:05 PM
  #46  
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A6M Zero by CY (cont).
Tank tray, batteries, receiver, engine test.

video:

Engine test.
It's a real 'pain' squirting petro into the inverted carb without a choke.
It took about 5 'squirts' to get the engine running.
Will install a carb with a choke so I can, at least, manual close the choke.
Only got about 5,700 RPM's with a 24X12 prop on the Fuji 86 CC twin.
Thought I'd get closer to 6,500 that is, for me, the ideal RPM's on gas engines.
Large 'stock' mufflers so the engine is pretty quite.




Two receiver batteries 'wrapped'.




Right half of tank tray epoxied to fuse.



Glad I checked the batteries via the extension wires as one of the connectors was defective and was replaced.



Two receiver batteries placed under the tank tray, foam added and routed some velcro to secure the tank.



Left side of tank tray secured with two screws along the center.
The left side of the tray has tabs that fit into the fuse to secure that side of the tray.



Receiver installed along with the satellites and wire 're-organized'.



The previous owner already had switches mounted on the outside of the fuse so the bottom one is for the ignition and the top one is for the receiver which was replaced with the receiver ON/OFF switch.



Engine test.







A nice Japanese pilot came with the plane.





Fortunately the canopy was included in the estate auction.
Will use screws to secure it.





The previous owner glued the top access hatch to the fuse.



The tail wheel is not 'locking' in the 'down' position so that needs to be 'addressed'.
Flap servos need replacing as one 'acts funny'.
CG needs checking.







Last edited by samparfitt; 07-06-2024 at 03:12 PM.
Old 07-06-2024, 03:53 PM
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July 3-6, Ohio Dawn Patrol in North Bend, Ohio.
Miles: 30.
A nice 800' all grass runway.
Nice comfortable weather.











































Old 07-06-2024, 03:58 PM
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ODP (CONT).













































Old 07-07-2024, 11:54 AM
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Flying at one of my local clubs.
Another great weather day with no wind but a little warm.





























Control line.






Old 07-07-2024, 03:04 PM
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PM the P-40 and Gilmore racer.

Skyshark 82" P-40.
The plane seemed a little 'nose heavy' in flight so 'weight' on the front of the cowl was removed.

Partial removal:



'Heat' always seems to 'work' and a big screw driver!



Finished.



Mounting holes on the right side of the cowl got 'enlarged' so FG cloth and 'finishing resin'.



=================
'Rosco Turner' came 'undone' in the cockpit so had to cut a hole to remedy the situation.



All better!



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