onewingtoolow

My Feedback: (2)

On the August issue of RCM, Hobby People advertises a 60 size P40 ARF made by Sportsman Aviation. I have never heard about this company - Sportsman Aviation. Can someone share his experience with Sportsman Aviation?

I have a similar thread on the ARF section.

Hobby People also advertises a 60 size Spitfire and a 40 size FW190 made by Sportsman Aviation. One thing I don't like is that the pictures of these three ARFs show a very similar color scheme for all these three airplanes. This is definitely not to the scale.

Thanks in advance.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

The p 40 is great. i changed the colors and put in rotating retracts .

Capt. Winters

My Feedback: (8)

I bought the P-40. I brought it home and set it upstairs in my home for 3 days. When I got the time to look at it again the covering was completely wrinkled from just sitting in a 75 degree house. To make a long story short I stripped the covering and recovered with Ultracote and came out with a great looking plane that flies like a dream. The plane is well built and looks scale. If you don't mind wrinkled planes or, like to cover to meet your needs, I would recommend this plane. Take care Capt. Winters

bentwing_J

I agree. The plane flies great. I replaced all the pushrods with better quality components. The covering likes to wrinkle & peel. I have 14 flights on mine and have had to tack the covering down in some spots. I really should strip it & re-cover it. I put a Thunder Tiger pro61 in it and run a 11x7.5 prop. I also set the cg on the main spar which was 110mm aft of the leading edge instead of the 130mm the (almost useless) manual states. I also had to mount the retract servo lower in the wing than the pre-construction would dictate in order to have a clean shot for the rods.

Here are some flying shots taken today at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/721jason

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

i AGREE , THE COVERING IS HORRIBLE THAT IS WHY I OPTED TO CHANGE THE SCHEME. I LOVE THE PLANE, YOU HAVE TO ADMIT AFTER BUILDING A TOP FLIGHT GOLD ADDITION P40 I WISH HAD THIS PLANE FIRST. IF YOUR INTERESTED IN A LITTLE WORK THE REALLY FUN STUFF LIKE ADDING DETAIL AND COLOR IS ALL THAT IS LEFT. IN ADDITION I COULD NOT THINK OF A BETTER COMPANY(HOBBY PEOPLE )THAT ARE FUN TO DEAL WITH AND SUPPORT THERE PRODUCT 100%

jacs

Caps lock trubble or do you like to shout ?

Arf-er

Hi, everybody

I've had some experience with the models as featured in magazine ads under 'Sportsman Aviation' brand... where I am (in Asia), they are sold under the German brand 'Jamara'. They appear to be exactly the same ARF kits (down to the gaudy iron-on film camouflage colouring, and decals!) featured in magazines.
I own the 60 sized Spitfire and the Corsiar, and I've seen the said P40 as well.
In both instances, I took pains re-painting them by sanding the film down & spraying paint over it, then detailing it with after-market decals and die-cut numbers. The do look good, but like I said; only after much effort.
All said, they both fly pretty well with v light wing loadings!
The P40 I'm also contemplating, but the turn-off is the awful color scheme (more work!) and a huge void on the belly area where the front radiator cowl meets the wing leading-edge. They should provide an underbally pan, or am I missing something?

Capt. Winters

My Feedback: (8)

They do have a belly pan. Take care Capt. Winters

winkeyy

I have one and i love it .It is one of the best ARF's you can bye and it flyes great and has the best covering you will find. you will love it

orcrest

Hi

I am "building" this one now. I would like any input on where to cut the elevator/rudder pushrod exit holes and also about the C of G that people have used and their results.

Cheers

The Orc

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

If I could post pictures I woudl show you what I did , the plane is great , I have decided to scale it out because it was built so well.

bbuss

I don't know where you are finding this Aircraft? Global are the distributors for Sportsman and they do not list a P40. I also checked the Hobby People web site and they don't list it either. I am something of a P40 fanatic and am always on the look out for any new ones. Where did you find it???

BadBart

My Feedback: (1)

I have been un able to locate it as well? Any help??

orcrest

Still looking for input from those who have built this plane.

For those wanting to buy it a quick google search showed:

http://202.157.186.6/product2.php?pa...8&cid=1&scid=0

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

Specifications
Wing Span : 64 in.
Wing Area : 697 sq. in.
Length : 53.5 in.
Flying Weight : 6.75 - 7.75 lbs

for $164 looks like a great deal and I must agree it looks awesome!!


matt

SBR_RV

if i was to get one i would stripping the covering pretty quick.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Guys , Hobby People discontinued the plane but you can still but the Fuse , wing ., cowl and Tail groups in there parts section . Then you simply but the canapy , teeth and other parts from Great planes Top Flight P40 spare parts , still should be under $200.
The plane is great but I did strip the covering and added rotating gear .

murwat

Hello all, I am just finishing off building my P40. generally speaking everything went together pretty well. I am ignoring the awful colour scheme.

However, i am having a problem with the c of g. the instructions advise that the c of g is measured at 130mm from the leading edge. I have installed a super tigre 61 2 stroke and with that the plane is incredibly nose heavy (even with the battery pack set way back in the fuse.

I think the 130 mm must be wrong! does anyone have any similar experience?

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

You might want to scroll back up and read Post #4 from bentwing J above.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Mur , are you going to use the set screw type of push rod connectors supplied in the kit ? They concern me about coming loose in flight . Its somewat novel and easy to install but seems to increase the chances of flight failure .

Also just an FYI , I stripped the covering off the entire model as part of a bash project , everything looked great except the very soft upper fuse balsa behind the engine . Becareful starting the engine and holding the fuse . I added a few long rips and drenched the area from the inside with CA .

murwat

Thank you all for your most helpful advice. I must say I am very impressed with the responses received and the help offered. I have used the linkages mentioned for the ailerons (although i have used some medium CA to lock them, although i may need to re-think this based on what you say). I will also heed your words regarding the soft balsa. Although, i am fairly happy with the general construction, I have noticed there are some variances in the quality of materials used. Although, I haven't encountered the problems regarding wrinkly covering, the colour scheme is a worry.

Just as a side issue, the RAAF (Royal Australian Airforce) used P-40's in ww11 - in the early days in the desert and later in New Guinea (Milne Bay and Port Morseby) and Darwin and as far as I know they were all either green/brown cam or all green (with a white tail) I have never seen a grey/green cam. The RAAF had the same roundals on the wings and fuse as the RAF (Blue, white and red or blue/red) although the red was painted over ... apparently it upset the locals to see the red circles on planes. In the dark days of early 1942 our Prime Minister (John Curtin) asked President Roosevelt for assistance and aircraft - When asked how many pilots Australia had to fly the P40's Mr Curtin assured the President that we would find as many pilots as he could provide aircraft. The Kittyhawk (as they are know in Oz) and the brave men who flew them have a very special place in our history.

Kind regards, Graeme Waters (Canberra, Australia)

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Mur , I can tell you what happen with the sportsmans p40 . I love the P40 so when it came out in gray and green I also did the research and coudl not find any squardrens that resembled the gray and green camio . Remember i could be wrong but I have not seen a real one in my referance books . I have seen a sea foam & gray version but only as a modle . Then when sportman released the spitfire -green & gray it all made sence . It was probably cheaper for Hobby People to mass order two WW2 planes with the same color scheme then two totally differant more accurate releases . The sportman Spitfite was a lot more accurate based on the retract set up and color . Unfortunitly its very difficult to find the spit for sale because it disappeared shortly after the p40 .
The Sportman P40 has also been successfully flown and converted into electric its on line if you search . I have mine totally striped , I am rebuilding the wing and currenty have rotating gear , split flaps. I also added the correct tail outline with counter balances . I have two servos behind the cockpit and two in front so that I could fit a full interior kit . I aslo slit the canaopy and used associated car ball links to make it slide manually . I am waiting until after my kids winter hockey is over to start the projuct again . The plane in my opinion is a great fun rendition of the p40 that has a lot of potential for stand off detail

orcrest

LDM

I'm interested in how you make the canopy slide. Any pics and info on the materials? I'm not sure what you mean by car ball links.

Thanks

Da Orc

P-40LUVR

I wonder how an OS 70 FS would do in this plane?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Da , I am a total idiot on posting pics, the system keeps telling me "File not supported "
I will try to explane what I did .
1) Take K& S aluminum bar stock , use a lathe , borrow one or have a friend grind one line in the bar stock on one side . This will act as the channel for the ball links to slide . Cut the bar stock in two so you have two pieces aprox length for the model you are building . It shoudl run from the front cockpit just under the rear windows in the P40 . Leave a 1/4 gap in from the front of the rail to the front cockpit so you can slide the ball links in when completed . Once you find exactly where you want the rail to go secure it with clamps , so you can mark a line under the rear windows where the rail will be incerted . This line needs to be carefully sanded out so the rail can fit and run all the way flush thru the open cockpit area .The cut side of the bar stock faces out just like the real P40 .
Take you associted ball links and cut part of the screw area off just to make them a little shorter . Then take two of these shortened ball links and place them on a small 1/4" stock of hardwood .Tape these to the inside of your cockpit window that is meant to slide (tape then good) so you can fool with the angle . YOu shoudl now have a sliding window with with a small wooden channel with 2 ball links taped to both sides of the inside sliding canopy . If you rails are in place (again tape them where you can ) you can now trial fit the ball links into the channel . You will notice some binding because the channel is still striaght but the fuse is tapered thin to wide as it moves forward . You can try to very slighty bend this channel or simply sand the fuse cavaty that houses the channel deeper . Its takes some playing but I can tell you the channel cost me about $2.00 because I bought a few .If you go wwwdbalsa.com they will sell you the chanels for $30.00 . You can aslo visit Warbirds .com , go to Patrick McGlocten (spell check ) he has a zirolliP40 , that is where I got the idea and pictures , Sorry but I hope this helps until I figure out what I am doing wrong with pics