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GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair

Old 12-10-2016, 08:50 PM
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Ibow24 (Steve)
I just tried to post some pictures of the flaps,but guess what I don't know where they went?
will try again
Old 12-10-2016, 09:06 PM
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I just tried to post some pictures of the flaps,but guess what I don't know where they went?
will try again
[/QUOTE]
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Old 12-11-2016, 07:12 AM
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How is everyone attaching the abs cockpit kit to the wood frame?

And then how are you all securing a full body pilot to the cockpit?

Thanks
Tony

Last edited by vatechguy3; 12-11-2016 at 07:26 AM.
Old 12-11-2016, 08:15 AM
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Screws, big wood ones updabutt. Just kidding.I only do that to secure the kids in the car.
Old 12-11-2016, 02:24 PM
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I am laughing to hard to try to comment

Cheers Bob T
Old 12-11-2016, 05:43 PM
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Default tailwheel

my tailwheel door & assembly
Old 12-11-2016, 05:47 PM
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Default tailwheel door

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Old 12-11-2016, 06:00 PM
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Default tailwheel door assembly

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Old 12-11-2016, 06:03 PM
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Boy I'll tell you what the old way of posting pictures used to be so much easier,its a good thing I don't do it very often,
this is not for me.
Old 12-11-2016, 10:03 PM
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Did anyone install a tailwheel with tail hook? I know there were lots of talk about it, but can't find any detailed pictures. To install the hook will mean cutting the ply "aft fuse plate" in half below the stab. Not sure if that's a wise idea or if that'll sacrifice some rigidity.
Old 12-15-2016, 06:18 AM
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In the process of building the center flap for the second wing, I realized it wasn't coming out to be the same size as the center flap on the first wing I did. I got this kit already started, including having the wing already mounted to the fuselage. Did some measuring last night and the wing is about 1/8" off center, making one wing panel essentially 1/4" longer than the other side. Son of a .....! I'd sooner start a new kit than hack off the belly pan, and remove and reset the dowel pins and hold-down bolts, so it's just going to have to do. Now I'm debating to leave it as is, or add a shim to the end of the "short" wing at the last rib which would probably be even more obvious.

This is the sort of thing that maybe a click of trim will take care of for flying, but man it's really going to bug me now!
Old 12-17-2016, 03:09 PM
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Spent some time to today setting in and shaping balsa blocks for the exhaust exits.
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:24 PM
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Very nice. Are you making a custom exhaust or using a Keleo kit or something else? Speaking of, always seen/read references to the Keleo exhaust but never found anything on their website or anything like that.

Last edited by Auburn02; 12-17-2016 at 10:22 PM.
Old 12-18-2016, 08:44 AM
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Thanks,
the exhaust is going to be for show not flow. I don't have the tools or skills to make an exhaust.
I don't think Keleo makes custom exhausts anymore. What he has on his website is it. I sent him an email awhile ago about making one and never got a response...after that I noticed a "no custom exhaust" note on the website.

I shaped the tail for a tail hook on mine. I'll get some pics later for you later.

Last edited by ibow24; 12-18-2016 at 08:46 AM.
Old 12-18-2016, 01:48 PM
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Hay ibow24

You might want to contact Lance at Bison mufflers he has do a couple for me , but you have to make an exact mockup out of wood, they are a bit above normal coast but for me they have been well worth it.
your other option is look for a good welder in your area and talk to him/her and see if the might be interested in a project ? if so go to your local scrap materials yard and see if you can find the raw materials cut and fit your own bits and then have it welded, that is how I did my first muffler and stacks for my Corsair. It is a lot of work but with the wood working skill I see you could do it.

Good luck with what ever route you choose

Cheers Bob T
Old 12-18-2016, 06:50 PM
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Thanks Bob,
One of my other concerns with a custom exhaust is volume and flow... How much is performance affected by too little or too much volume and outlet size etc. Maybe not enough to notice? 2 Strokes are all about flow.

Sitting back today looking it over I realized how far away from finishing I really am.
Need to:
Mount the cowl
Cut the canopy & canopy frame and finish fabricating the sliding canopy
Glue the frame to the canopy (ugh)
Add some 1/64 strips of ply to cover the flap gap on the top of the wing
Finish sand
Glass
cut landing gear openings
cut and make functional gear doors
prime
paint
geez.... this plane doesn't realize I have a Ziroli Helltcat waiting for me to build.

Anybody have pics of their throttle and choke linkage on a G62. The glossary up front hasn't been much help..

I know this kit has been in out of production but it seems like it's been "in production" for a long time. I'm surprised more people aren't jumping on board with this thread. It has been invaluable to me.
Old 12-18-2016, 07:16 PM
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And I'm way behind you.

For me, I'm having trouble setting an order of operations for areas I'm going away from the manual. I've built probably 20 or 30 kits, but for the most part follow the manual thus everything happens in order. Take right now for example, I really want to sheet the bottom of the fuse, mount the stabs and shape all the tail blocks. But I need to finalize the tail wheel install. And to finish it I need to build my tail wheel bay doors. But I can't lay up the doors until I finish the bottom of the fuse. It's a vicious cycle.

Last edited by Auburn02; 12-18-2016 at 07:23 PM.
Old 12-19-2016, 12:27 PM
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Auburn02

Don't be in a hurry to sheet the bottom of your bird, as it give you excess to areas you may need later, I learned this on my second build it's the same with putting the fire wall in permanently place it and then use 4 screws it make things a lot easer I think I had mine in/out 20 time before gluing it

Cheers Bob T
Old 12-19-2016, 12:35 PM
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Running into this on the B-25 build. Left the bottom opened, sheeted the top until I got all the things needed done on the bottom. The nose is done, but I left the tail open until I decided on what I plan to do with the tail controls. I may put a servo in the tail to control the elevator, and use pull-pull cables for the rudders, in which case need to put a guide tube in for the servo cable, and maybe tubes for the cables, but since I haven't built the tail yet, not sure if I need tubes for the rudders.
Old 12-20-2016, 06:58 AM
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[QUOTE=acdii;12287905]Running into this on the B-25 build. Left the bottom opened, sheeted the top until I got all the things needed done on the bottom. The nose is done, but I left the tail open until I decided on what I plan to do with the tail controls. I may put a servo in the tail to control the elevator, and use pull-pull cables for the rudders, in which case need to put a guide tube in for the servo cable, and maybe tubes for the cables, but since I haven't built the tail yet, not sure if I need tubes for the rudders.[/QUOTE

Hi acdii From watching some of your builds I would bet you have a plan all ready, But hear is my thoughts I like the little yellow part the comes with the small plastic push rods the dia is good for the cabling and does not seam to ware with use, as when I use cables I tend to make them tight, as the slack side is still tight when in operation Something I learned way back when I worked at Convair in San Diego

Cheers Bob T
Old 12-20-2016, 07:52 AM
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Those are exactly what I plan to use, your referring to the inner rods of golden rods? I don't yet know if I need guides just yet, wont until I actually build the tail section and see where the control arm sits. Since the fuse is wide open all the way back I probably dont need them, as it is a straight shot internally and like you said will be guitar string tight. Going to use aluminum control arm on the servo too so no slop anywhere. Taking a cue from Top Flite, I plan to make the elevator link the same way and put that servo in the tail to avoid interference with the cables, so it anything, I just need to make a tube to run the servo lead back.

I was considering using those thin wing servos for the rudders and installing them in the fins, but that is way too much weight in the tail to counter balance, adding those two servos would require at least 6 ounces of dead nose weight.
Old 12-22-2016, 05:49 PM
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Todd,
I wouldn't really worry about 6oz. of nose weight, by the time your done I think you'll be adding a lot more,I know I did.
Old 12-22-2016, 06:06 PM
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Oh I know that, but every ounce out of the tail is 3 fewer ounces needed on the nose.

I figured out the cabling, I just need the guides on the stab itself, there is plenty of room inside to get the cables routed without interference, and a servo will fit perfectly in the rear. The trick will be making the servo accessible without being obvious.

Once I finish this, or get to the point I can't finish due to missing parts, like servos or engines, then I think I will look into a giant Corsair that I can put my DA 100 on.
Old 12-23-2016, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
.

Once I finish this, or get to the point I can't finish due to missing parts, like servos or engines, then I think I will look into a giant Corsair that I can put my DA 100 on.
That would have to be a CARF or a build from some ones plans

Merry Christmas to all

Cheers Bob T
Old 12-23-2016, 01:32 PM
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I got bored with sanding and decided to start thinking about the dummy radial.
I'm using a Frank Tiano resin cast 9 cylinder.

Question: I'll be using an inverted G62 like most everyone else. Should a remove the bottom 1 or 2 cylinders of the dummy for air flow?

thanks
Steve

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