tubig

added some small details beginning with some inspection covers and hatches made from aluminum tape. if you look closely on the right side by the cockpit area you can also see where i tried to simulate the cowl latches by scribing them into the flitemetal. i'm not really convinced that the detail will not be covered up by the primer so i may go back a redo them with .010" plastic. i'll wait to see how they stand up to the primer first. also, i needed some small half round to simulate the oil cover hinge which i don't have on hand so may just use some very small wire for that.

pic 2: before adding panels and hatches to the rear fuselage i first marked out the panel lines using a crossbeam laser.

pic 3: couple more panels.

pic 4: to simulate the screws i used sharpened brass tube and a 1.4mm jeweler's screwdriver pressed into the aluminum tape to simulate the straight head.

tubig

i was unsure the best way to simulate the panel that covers the horizontal stab's incedence adjusting slot so i thought i'd try flitemetal. unfortunately, i think i was asking too much from the flitemetal as it had to really stretch to cover the fin/fuselage junction and, as you can see, it didn't quite make it without splitting. and i was only doing one side at a time. here is what i have at the moment. i may remove it and go with a primered panel instead.

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tubig!
I think, that, primering the panel, is a better choice.
You can better control, the thikness of the panel, to obtain a more scale-like effect.
My opinion
Keep on so!
A great job till now!

Jimmy

tubig

thanks jimmy! you may be right about using the primer method. i'm thinking of trying it one more time (on the other side) to see if i can get better results. if not, then i'll pull it out and go with primer. thanks for the post.

SMUGator

I'm trying to remember the Platt video, but I think he did his hatch and hinge details with aluminuum tape as a last step after adding the primer detail so as not to lose the fine touches.

tubig

that's probably the case 'gator. i've been thinking about that as i go along but i figure i'm going to need to prime the aluminum panels anyway prior to paint and the primered panel lines and panels (in the case of this last panel) are separate from the aluminum ones so hopefully i won't lose the detail. i don't know, maybe i should have waited.

saramos

When I did my Spit, I added the panels before priming. It does soften the edges a bit, but once weathered, they pop again. For doing the fairings and raised panels, I layed masking tape on the low side, then used body putty filler to create a raised panel. The filler is feathered in towards the center of the raised panel. Once the tape is pulled off an nice raised joint is made. This photo shows the wing fairing and the raised panel over the fuel tank. Around the tank, I did two layers of tape to make a more prenounced raised panel.

Scott.

saramos

When I did my Spit, I added aluminum panels before priming. It does soften the edges a bit, but once weathered, they pop again. For doing the fairings and raised panels, I layed masking tape on the low side, then used body putty filler to create a raised panel. The filler is feathered in towards the center of the raised panel. Once the tape is pulled off an nice raised joint is made. This photo shows the wing fairing and the raised panel over the fuel tank. Around the tank, I did two layers of tape to make a more prenounced raised panel. The cockpit door is a panel made from aluminum tape.

Scott.

SMUGator

That looks good, Scott. I did the aluminum tape on my T-bolt at the same time I did the panel lines and it came out ok. As you say, it pops during the weathering process.

Tom

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tubig!
Thanks saramos!
This is what I mean by controling the thikness of the panel [ I did not find the english words (one or more layers of tape )].
First time when I see this tehnique, was Tom Pierce's project SBD-5 Dauntless, a masterpiece!
On my Me 109 I used the same kind of tehnique with more or less visual effect.
I complicated a littlebit the work, by masking with tape the doors and hatches. And for the doors I used thin paper cardboard ( my bad english[>:]). The doors and hatches have the masking tape dimensions ,minus 0.5 or 1mm ,to remain a little gap between the two edges when the door or hatch is on position.
This kind of stuff ,means a lot of primer (weight ) to be aplied on great surfaces,but, if its is corectly worked, the visual effect is super!
Maybe understand better the photo than my english
Jimmy

tubig

scott, tom, and jimmy, thanks for the info. i've decided to primer the panel lines before adding any more taped panels (only a few more to add anyway). i've pulled the FM off the fin and will do that in primer as well. hopefully, will start taping in the panel lines today with 1/64" chartpak tape and maybe get to shooting them tomorrow.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Tubig I am still checking in. Keep up the good work. Rich

saramos

It can be time consuming and even frustrating, but I find trying new techiniques and seeing what works and what doesn't is a big part of the fun. Often what doesn't work at one point will be the best approach at another point. In the end, I know you'll have a great looking model.

Scott

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tim!
I imagine, that, more closer you are to finishing the progect,its bigger the stress.
I apreciate that, you had the power to turn back,and start the work with another metod, now,when you are so close...
I hadn't it ( how to say ? courage?,pacience?,experience?) and for a few times, I regret it!

Hardly wait some new photos!

Sincerely
...............C.G.Manea "Jimmy"

tubig

yes, i'm also a tinkerer and like to try new things. scott, as you say some work and some don't. FM is starting to grow on me now. i found it tricky at first to apply but i'm getting more use to it and the panels are going down easier. jimmy, i don't mind admitting when i've screwed up and have to start over.

so, speaking of starting over, i removed the adhesive goo from the FM using Goo Gone and den. alcohol to remove the goo gone residue. then i spent the rest of the afternoon playing with a new airbrush i bought a while back and testing with Warbird Colors paint i'll be using.

tubig

remasked the area and sprayed close to a dozen thin coats of warbird colors grey primer drying with a heat gun between each coat. only a slight problem with some orange peel that hopefully will sand out (maybe i didn't get all of the goo gone?). this was the first time with a new airbrush and i'm still trying to get used to it. i think this will work better.

saramos

Looks good!

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tim!
I make some dig in my dusty book archive, looking for Helmut Wick's machine.
For the moment I'm completely comfused.
I found TWO diferent camo schemes in more reference books about E-4 and Luftwaffe Colours/Emblems.
I think its about two planes with diferent W.nr. ( and diferent period of the war ? October 1940 Beaumont-Le-Roger France/November 1940! )
Until now OK, but ,also are diferences between them, on Wick's personal emblems too[>:].Blue/Yellow and Red/White with same "HORRIDO"
You have more side/up/down views with the W.Nr.5433 ?
I found, I think ,another plane? with W.Nr.5344 ,could be a confusion of Werk numbers?
The side-view posted by you, at the start of this project, is from a French Book?
Pic 1: compare the two front sides
Pic 2: varints of camo/markings ( shame not in colour )
Pic 3: emblems ... again confusion
Pic 4: again blue/tellow
Pic 5: red/white
Sincerely Yours!
.........................Jimmy

tubig

jimmy, of the reference material that i have, the third pic you posted is closest to what i'm using as my prototype. from what i've read, Wick's personal emblem was the kingfisher not the bulldog (?). also, the horrido was done in blue/yellow. maybe, the color of the pennant was changed when the color of the nose was changed from green to yellow? of course, i'm no expert on this....just what i've read and seen.

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tim!
Another foggy road!
I'v read somewere that, a WHITE nose was repainted in yellow, see pic 1
================================================== ===============================
Helmut Wick carried his famous personal "Horrido!" emblem of a Gold or Yellow broad sword on a Blue field pennant. This was originally the emblem of 3. Staffel/ JG 2 and represented the Swedish ancestry of the Staffelkapitän Hennig Stümpel. As Gruppenkommandeur, Wick's I/JG 2 had an inspection by Feldmarshall Sperrle who chastised Wick for the untidiness of the crew personnel. As this was at the height of the Battle of Britain, Wick angrily defended the crews relating that involved in their long hours they had no time to get "a damned haircut." which was "the last word".
...Promoted to Hauptmann and Gruppenkommandeur of I Gruppe/JG 2 on Sept. 9, 1940. With his score to 41 air victories, Wick was awarded the Ritterkreuz mit Eichenlaub (Knight's Cross with Oak Leaves) on Oct. 5, 1940.
Promoted Major and Kommodore of JG 2 "Richthofen", succeeding Major Wolfgang Schellmann who left to command JG 27.
Wick shot down his 55th victory during an early sortie on Nov. 28, 1940 to become the leading fighter ace in the world. Later in the day, on a "Freie Jagd" over the English Channel, Wick scored his 56th victory, a Spitfire. In turn his aircraft was shot down by Battle of Britain ace Flt. Lt. John Dundas of 609 Squadron, RAF. Wick was seen to bale out over the Channel, his "Geschwaderstab Schwarm" mate Hptm. Rudi Pflanz circled the area calling over the radio that a "Spitfire was down" hoping to attract British air/sea rescue. Pflanz continued to circle until his fuel was almost empty, crash-landing at landfall on his return over the Channel but Wick was never found.
================================================== ===============================
An explanation could be, that is NOT the same plane.After Wick became Kommodore, have repainted ANOTHER plane , with old Gruppenkommandeur markings, on new, Kommodore markings.
On pic 2. can see, that, the double Schevron was overpainted only, not the entire plane ( ? ).
One thing bacame sure ,that the Wick's marking was blue/yellow( gold ),not red/white.
Your's
CG Manea

tubig

short progress note. added panel lines to the fuselage with 1/64" chartpak tape and warbird colors primer. before removing the tape i want to go over the whole fuselage with a coat of primer but, unfortunately, the airbrush i have now is too fine. i'll need to get my touch-up gun for this so it'll be a couple of weeks before i can shoot the overall primer coat.

tubig

spent the last several days adding more chartpak tape and then primering in the panel lines for the wing. also, added another overall primer coat to the fuselage (chartpak tape still in place).

SMUGator

How well does the Warbird Colors primer build on the panel lines? I've been using KlassKote over high build auto primer. Would be nice to use something less noxious.

Tom

tubig

tom, i think it works well. i've never used the high build auto primers before so i can't compare those to WC. for the panel lines i shot about 4-5 passes with a medium tip airbrush and used the touchup gun for the overall coat. it does sand easy and i'm able to shoot the smaller stuff indoors (i still wear a respirator though).

SMUGator

Thanks Tim.

I like what I can do with KlassKote in terms of weathering, but the fumes will make you leave the building.

Tom