hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,
Trexler's are very delicate, easily damaged. As far as I can scale, the supplied tail wheel seems correct in size-just shouldn't be at the aft end of the fuse.
Jim

[quote]ORIGINAL: Baroncowboy


.......PS. Im thinking about buying a tail wheel setup for mine aswell,and I noticed the full scale Hawks tail wheel was quite a bit larger than the one suplied...Im concidering buying the smallest trexler balloon wheel they make and using it as the tail wheel in the correct location....Anyone else thought of this??? I thought maybe it might help with rough landings aswell since Trexler's are inflateable...

serge760

what prop do you use on your 120 os

Wile E

My Feedback: (2)

Looks like I'm right on time with my tailwheel mods! Started with a Klett large tailwheel assembly, 1 3/4" wheel. Removed the steering arm and axle star retainer. Removed vertical axle from fork using Vice Grips and twisting motion. Drilled and tapped hole for 14-28. Installed 1/8" landing gear axle in tapped hole and applied liberal CA to lock in place. Used plastic bracket from (CB ASSOCIATES) tailwheel assembly as new mount, bolted to 3/32" plywood plate. Inserted new longer shaft up through new bracket, placed a couple of 4-40 washers on the shaft and bolted on the Klett steering arm (filed flat on shaft for setscrew). I shortened the arm to the second set of holes. Steering will be by Du-Bro 4-40 cable kit. During exploratry surgery on the bottom of the plane I found that there is a plywood former at a good location to use as an attach point for the front of the tailwheel mount. A rearward, load-bearing mount was fashioned from full-depth, 1/4" square basswood with a crosspiece resting on them. The plate will be screwed in first for installation and adjustment, then removed and epoxied prior to covering up the installation hole.

As for the bracket manufacturer, I got it out of my junk bin, and I think CB does not make them any more. Sorry.

Scott G

Wile E.,

Is that the ".60" size assembly or the "large" one. I need something similar for a 72" lancaster. A 1.5" wheel would be ideal.

Thanks,

scott.

mobyal

Now THAT is a nice piece of work! Thanks for the ideas and pics etc.
Al

Baroncowboy

My Feedback: (1)

serge760 > I myself run a Saito 150,however I use just a size under the largest prop thats recomended... On scale birds I tend to always go for the largest prop that the engine can handle,or atleast one under the largest... Suplies most torque advantage and theres really no need for RPM/ speed as the smaller props are designed to give... Also helps with cowl clearence and I like that grunt the longer blades have...

Also it depends on what OS 120 your talking about...

The( FS-120S-E ) says it can handle a > 13x11 - 14x11 Id go with atleast a 14x10 on this one

And the ( FS-120S III ) can handle a > 14X9 - 18X6 The 18x6 is what I run on my Saito 150

Heres a link for ya > http://osengines.com/engines/surpass.html

mobyal

[Josh and GeeBees --
Thanks for the info. Right now I'm inclined to go w/ the OS, because of the additional weight. I'm hoping that when I get it and the onboard glo on there, I won't need much if any additional nose weight. The only thing that might change my mind is the prop I'd like to use. I want to put a three-bladed prop on it, because that's what the real one used. But my understanding is that a 2-cycle swings those a bit better than a 4-cycle. Decisions, decisions..... But ain't it fun?
Al

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Yes, the tailwheel is from Central Hobbies, here: http://www.centralhobbies.com/landin...tailwheel.html

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Hey Al - I'm currently flying mine with a Master Airscrew 14x7 three-blade prop (pics are posted in an earlier post on this thread). I think a 15x8 would be even better and will try one of those this weekend. My OS is a Surpass III with pump and it is still breaking in. I've only gone through a half dozen tanks of fuel so far.

mobyal

That's what I have too. So that's what I'll try. Thanks for the info

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,
Your post wrt the FPE really turned me on to an excellent choice for the models of my interest! So let me share:
The FPE home just quoted me $369.95, and for that it includes muffler and ignition.
The ignition is a Reichmuth variant, with dual pickups for low and hi range timing. It is made by Ridge Electronics/D&B--http://www.dandbengines.com/ignitions.html.
The FPE 1.3 is available.
I'm sold, and again, many thanks!
Jim

Wile E

My Feedback: (2)

That's the 1/4 scale size Klett tailwheel fork. The assembly comes with a 1 3/4" wheel, 1 1/2" and 2" are available as accessories.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

Kelvin

im guessing you missed my post a few pages back. Is the scale exhaust available for the YS 120?

matt

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

First class work on that tailwheel Wile E! Well done indeed. Your ground handling ought to be excellent with that arrangement. Now I'm going to have to do surgery on mine Thanks much for sharing.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Nice tailwheel - I kept the stock setup but went slightly larger diameter. Progress being made. Got the wings mounted and ran 2 tanks through the new engine today. Just minor stuff left to do --- and balancing!

Baroncowboy

My Feedback: (1)

Kelvin,Im also intrested in your exhaust system aswell....
Will they be able to be made for the Saito 150 by chance?...
Thanks, Josh

Baroncowboy

My Feedback: (1)

Heres just a couple of pics to show how its possible to inclose a Satio 150's stock exhaust pipe,without cutting a single piece outa the cowl... Untill I can pull the funds for a Keleo deal,I figured Id just settle for this setup... Plenty of clearance and no modifing needed to accomplish this... The only thing that you need is a large rubber exhaust deflector to zip tie on the end on the pipe outlet,and it clears everything and keeps the plane relatively clean...
( In the Pics the deflector was removed so you could better see the pipe.)
The only thing that I could see that could be used to better this option would be a short flex pipe extension... I may opt to do this,but for now Im $$$ limited! [&o]
Anyone else tried this? Works on a Saito 150,not sure about other engines or companys...
Let me know if this works for anyone else... Josh

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Josh,
I'm going to do almost the same thing with the exhaust on my gasoline Roto25. Right now the exhaust and hose extension runs down past the fake radiator. I have a piece of flxible tubing coming. I will have to put a hole in the radiator face, but then I can run the exhaust out the back like yours. Will look much better. The 25cc gas engine is proving to be an awesome match for the Hawk I have over a dozen flights now and loving it. Have ordered a scale Solo 3-blade prop and will try the smoke system this weekend.

mobyal

Josh --
Sorry to be so long inresponding to your offline Email, but I've somehow managed to lose it! If you'll send me another, I'll answer your questions. And ask for your help in engine installation when the time comes.
Thanks
Al

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Well, after only 294 posts, I'm finally starting to build mine.
Before starting, I was at Home Depot yesterday and noticed that they sell 3" wide aluminum duct (not duck!) tape.
Also, these last few college bowl games have been fantastic to watch: especially us buckeye fans!

Pic 1:
Starting out in the normal routine: installing hinges.
I'm partial to nylon pin hinges for this size plane so I used GP medium nylon pinned hinges (gpmq3972).
I use an exact-o blade to cut grooves in the balsa and then use the back of the blade to widen the slot.

pic 2:
After putting some oil on the pins of the hinges, I use a flattened popsicle stick to put and force the epoxy into the hinge slot.
I then put some on the hinge and slid it in (figuratively speaking!).

Pic 3:
I do one side first, let it dry, make sure the hinge is moving easily and then epoxy the other side.

Pic 4:
The rudder needed an extra slot cut: one for the hinge and one for the tail wheel.
I used the stock tail wheel. If you want scale, put it under the fuse.
In the future, you can easily cut away the stock tail wheel and add a scale one later.

Pic 5:
Fuse side.

Pic 6:
While the epoxy was out, I also did the two wing joiners (did this before the hinges so they will be dry by the
time the hinges are done).
I used rubber bands to keep them from sliding around when the clamps are added.
Both joiners have two 1/8" and one 1/16" thick pieces to epoxy.
The angle on one set of the joiners is subtle so make sure you mark them.

Pic 7:
Might as well epoxy the weight box while I'm at it!
On the horizontal stab: where it is joined with the fuse, I trimmed 1/8" in from the edges so the
covering can be tucked into the slot so it doesn't come out or rip off in flight.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Reference page 22 step #5....if I install it that way...the arrows is pointing toward the rear..
The short leg measures 13 3/4", the long one 14"......arrow points to the back....My Stearman
the arrow points to the front ???????????????

Larry
AMA 11269

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

The arrows are indeed installed wrong.

Go by the ruler, not the arrows.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Build (continued)

Pic 8:
Paint sticks with sand paper glued on makes effective sanding pads.

Pic 9:
The near wing is the top wing.
The angles on the wing connectors are both down and the rear connectors for the wings have the angle pointing backwards.
Mark center line and angle direction to save confusion when putting epoxy on them.

Pic 10:
Bottom wing: one clamp, two nylon bolts and some rubber bands only needed to hold the two halves together while
the epoxy dries. My wing had 2 1/2" total and not the 1" total when the center had no gaps.
I followed tupper ware and walruses philosophy on this: 'best to have a tight fit'!
I didn't want any gaps where the two wings came together and ignored the 1/2" blocks.
(when putting the top wing on, I had to push the center up about 3/8" to the strut would hit the hard wood: I consider this
a small deflection in order to keep the center seam tight. An alternative is to just add some extra hard wood lower on the
inside of the fuse.)

Pic 11:
Top wing: just some tape on each end to hold the two halves together while she dries (put vertically to dry).

Pic 12:
I mounted the OS 1.20 next.
Much easier doing this before putting on the tail feathers.

Pic 13:
Landing gear. The slanted part is in the back.

Pic 14:
I put the servos in before gluing up the wing.
Easier to put servo leads and extensions (6" ones needed) in when you have access to the center ribs.

Pic 15:
Perfect fit on lower wing.

Pic 16:
Horizontal stab put in.
Falls right into place. Don't have to worry about one end farther than the other from the fuse nose.
Only need to check that it's horizontal.

Pic 17:
Vertical stab put in: just as easy as the horizontal stab.

Pic 18:
Plastic filler added.
Follow the cut lines on the plastic and she fits real nice.
I used '56' glue. A little tape to hold her down while drying works good.

Pic 19:
Front view of filler.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Build (continued)

Pic 20:
Tin snips that I used: the curved ones seem to work real good for me.
They get into tight spaces, they even cut straight lines.
I initially cut about 1/4" front where I want the final cut to remove most of the waste.
I then cut on the final line.

Pic 21:
On the struts, the longest side goes to the rear.
I figured the manual was correct so I ignored the 'arrows' on the struts.
Note: I put the struts on the inside of each bracket.

Pic 22:
Struts all mounted.
Make sure wings are parallel to each other, both horizontally and 'side to side'.

Pic 23:
Another view.

Pic 24:
Only off by 1/4" so it was easy to push the struts into the correct position.

Pic 25:
Another view.

Pic 26:
One more view.

Pic 27:
Detail of strut attachment.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Build (continued)

Pic 28:
Cut the axles 1 3/8" w/flat spots.
Put the pants on, then axle and then the wheel.

Pic 29:
two bolts screw into the aluminum landing gear to hold the pants on.

Pic 30:
Turtle deck.
I left more material on the front of the turtle deck so it would hold better.

Pic 31:
Turtle deck: final cut.

Pic 32:
Rudder put on last.

Pic 33:
Gettin' there!