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P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Old 01-13-2006, 11:38 AM
  #401  
speedpro 1
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

well have a few flights with saito 125 now with apc 16-7 prop. i moved the receiver battery also out under the cowl and got all but 1oz of extra weight off. still may need to do a little more adjusting cant tell much different in 3/4 and full throttle. the 125 flies it easily with big loops but not huge loops can go vertical for a little bit on hammer heads.i don't think a 180 will be much overpowered, kinda wish i had one under the hood now.
Old 01-13-2006, 12:36 PM
  #402  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

I think I might finally bite for one of these great looking ARF's. What do you guys think of stuffing a 200ti under the hood??? How about the RCV 120 sp ??? Looking for the sound along with a bigger prop. I've read elsewhere on this forum that the 200ti likes a 16x10 3 blade on the hgr9 mustang, I'm thinking that might be good for this one?? I don't know too much about the RCV any thoughts would be helpful. Jim G
Old 01-13-2006, 12:47 PM
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)


ORIGINAL: Baroncowboy

The tail wheel mod definatley looks better than the stocker... If there is anything that could be improved on the main wheels,it would have to be the size...
I noticed the models are alot smaller than it should be to scale upto the real P-6E's wheels/Tires....

I fly mostly off of grass,so I might try the large Trexlers if they'll messure up... I know they are alot more fragile than solid tires,but they look so much cooler,and they add a little shock action to the gear aswell...
I have two sets of the DUBRO smooth tread inflatable balloon tires to try. One is 4" diameter, which is about the same size as the stock wheels, but much wider. The other is a set of the same wheels in 4.5" size. We fly off grass too, and I'll see if I can relieve the wheel pants enough for those to fit. First flights, no pants, though. ***ON THE PLANE, GUYS!! ***
Old 01-13-2006, 01:02 PM
  #404  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

SpeedPro 1,

Thank you for your report and comments.[sm=sunsmiley.gif]
That was exactly the kind of info I needed. [sm=thumbup.gif] The nose weight needed and lack of power make me think my choice of the 125 is probably wrong, for the power I wanted (HUGE loops).[sm=stupid.gif] After your experience, I think I'll try to find a 180 too. [sm=idea.gif]

Thanks,
Ramon


ORIGINAL: speedpro 1

well have a few flights with saito 125 now with apc 16-7 prop. i moved the receiver battery also out under the cowl and got all but 1oz of extra weight off. still may need to do a little more adjusting cant tell much different in 3/4 and full throttle. the 125 flies it easily with big loops but not huge loops can go vertical for a little bit on hammer heads.i don't think a 180 will be much overpowered, kinda wish i had one under the hood now.
Old 01-13-2006, 03:42 PM
  #405  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Jim,
I'm putting the RCV 120 SP in mine. This is my first non-OS motor, but I'm using it to minimize the cowl cutting and to swing the bigger prop. I'm using an APC 15.75x13. I'm also going to use the Keleo custom exhaust for this plane (go back to Page 10 to see the pics). I'm just waiting on the exhaust now. My only reservation with the RCV is cooling. There's plenty of outlet in this cowl, but I may had some air input because I understand these things are real heaters!

Steve

ORIGINAL: Ta-152

I think I might finally bite for one of these great looking ARF's. What do you guys think of stuffing a 200ti under the hood??? How about the RCV 120 sp ??? Looking for the sound along with a bigger prop. I've read elsewhere on this forum that the 200ti likes a 16x10 3 blade on the hgr9 mustang, I'm thinking that might be good for this one?? I don't know too much about the RCV any thoughts would be helpful. Jim G
Old 01-14-2006, 08:29 PM
  #406  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Wile E - Im glad to hear your testing out the inflateable wheels aswell...
I didnt know that Du-Bro made inflateables... They look much more sturdy than the Trexler's do,thats for sure....
The last two times I said I was going to try a pair of Trexler's,I was instantly attacked on here... Id be afraid to try a pair now,fearing someone will spot em' on my Hawk and pull out the shot gun for skeet practice... I mean God Forbid I might make the claim I can land smooth enough not to blow out the tires everytime I make contact with mother earth... Hahaha
I guess now I know what people think of my flying skills.... Oh well...
Anyhow Im looking foward to your report Wile E... Josh
Old 01-14-2006, 09:14 PM
  #407  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Off subject a little,but has anyone thought about trying out a FEMA starter on the Hawk?
I dont see a kit for my Saito 150,but I see that there is one for some of the engines you fellas are useing...
Looks like this could be made to work rather easily on the hawk,since it has a fire-wall "box"/engine mount setup... And this would also help on adding "Usefull" weight to the nose,rather than boring lead...
Just a thought.... Josh

http://hobby-lobby.com/fema.htm
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:30 PM
  #408  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

here is a few pictures of my hawk. has some easily made detail you might wont to try. name on outside of fuse, gromments on wires from fuse, a little more detailed instrument panel, workable handle and levers inside and a very easy way to attach the front fly wires not scale but still looks good very easy. looped cord around landing gear then get you wires spaced evenly by attaching the top part on a t-pin near landing gear
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:49 PM
  #409  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Jeez Josh, nobody was tryin' to talk ya out of using Trexlers...AV8TOR was even (almost) encouraging ya!
The DuBro's are much thicker and durable though...

Thanks for the tips about the 1.80 guys...
Old 01-15-2006, 07:19 AM
  #410  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

ORIGINAL: Baroncowboy

Wile E - Im glad to hear your testing out the inflateable wheels aswell...
I didnt know that Du-Bro made inflateables... They look much more sturdy than the Trexler's do,thats for sure....
The last two times I said I was going to try a pair of Trexler's,I was instantly attacked on here... Id be afraid to try a pair now,fearing someone will spot em' on my Hawk and pull out the shot gun for skeet practice... I mean God Forbid I might make the claim I can land smooth enough not to blow out the tires everytime I make contact with mother earth... Hahaha
I guess now I know what people think of my flying skills.... Oh well...
Anyhow Im looking foward to your report Wile E... Josh

ORIGINAL: GaGeeBees

Trexlers will not hold up for long and a blowout virtually guarantees torn up wheel pants and a nose over resulting in a damaged cowl. That said, it'd be fun to watch so please videotape it. I've learned that sometimes the best service we can provide is to serve as a warning to others
Not sure if this was one of the messages interpreted as an "attack" on the subject of Trexlers. It certainly wasn't intended to be and in no way was it meant to disparage your flying skills. If that's how it was taken, my apologies.
Old 01-15-2006, 08:27 AM
  #411  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

I had one of the FEMA starters on my Saito 180 in an Ultimate Pitts from Lainer it added 20 + OZ to the airframe. The FEMA starter turns the 180 over in a scale way, so your 150 will work just fine.

It is a very cool thing to use on your plane.
Old 01-15-2006, 02:27 PM
  #412  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Since it's still too FREAKING cold up here in Michigan to run my engine, I've been thinking about more stuff to do with the Hawk. I have a KMP Beaver that I won in a raffle that has FOUR servo connectors to hook up each time its assembled. I got sneaky with the Hawk and installed a LONG servo "Y" inside the wing with just the one lead fom the "Y" to connect each time. Had to run an extra string between the servo holes to pull the "Y" through. I also cut access slits in the covering on the bottom of the wing at the second rib bay out from the center to fish out the connectors, plug them together and tape them. The slits and extra hole were then covered with matching covering from the scrap box. The extra hole in the fuselage was covered as well. Now I need to take one of the hints mentioned and get some rubber grommets to finish the holes.
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Old 01-15-2006, 02:41 PM
  #413  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

GaGeeBees...I think Josh knows we were just joshin' him?! (hope so anyway )

Hey Wile E...guess you're avitar would be what happened if Rocky and Bullwinkle had a "thing" together?
Old 01-15-2006, 09:01 PM
  #414  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Interesting day at the flying field today. Went through most of a gallon of Ritch's Brew really wringing the Hawk out and had a great time. Decided to burn what was left in tank rather than pump it out so went up for one more flight. Was just lazing around the field doing touch-n-goes and noticed that the OS 1.20 was sounding a little rough at idle. On my last touch-n-go the engine was sounding particularly rough, really banging and I couldn't tell for sure but it looked like the muffler was really bouncing around. I goosed it and went around one more time and brought it in. I killed the engine and watched the engine sag downward. On removing the cowl, I discovered two of the four bolts holding the engine to the mount rails were totally gone and the other two were almost out as well. It was probably moments - if not seconds - away from the engine departing the airframe entirely. The deadstick wouldn't have been a big deal but the drastic change in CG would have surely been fatal lol. Pics attached of what I found under the cowl.
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:42 PM
  #415  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

GeeBees,
I always, and I mean always, put Nylon locknuts on the other side of the engine bolts! I've never used the sheet metal type screws and for my OS120 on my GeeBee I used #8 hardware with the Nylocks on the other side.

For mounting my RCV in the P-6e I'm going back through the firewall into the RCV mounting plate, and even at that I'm putting Metric locknuts on the backsides. I've never trusted a lock washer alone when it comes to engine mounting!

Glad you caught it before it was too late!

Steve
Old 01-15-2006, 09:56 PM
  #416  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Steve --
You beat me to it! I always use nylon lock nuts on all engine mount bolts. After drilling and tapping the proper-sized bolt holes, I'll grind a flat spot on the bottom of the mount, and use a bolt long enough to go into and through the lock nut. So far as sheet metal screws are concerned, the first time I tried to use them on a "glass" mount -- they were included in the kit! -- I torqued the head off one when mounting the engine. I threw them all into the nearest trash can and generally don't use them for anything. Same for the cheap-a__ phillips-head hardware that's in most ARF/RTF kits. Into the trash and real fasteners substituted.
GeeBee -- glad you caught this before it was too late! Keep the shiny side up!
Al
Old 01-16-2006, 01:40 AM
  #417  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Just one more way to attach flying wires. I made hooks from half inch wide brass sheet and attached the fuselage ones by slitting the fuse and sliding them in, securing them with thin CA. The strut hooks are held by the attach bolts. I painted them to get rid of the brass look. Now, it's the same as attaching three rubberbands per side. Very easy.

Frank T.
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:23 PM
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Better day flying today. I have to say, any day that my engine doesn't fall off is a good one. Replaced the Great Planes supplied 8-32 machine screws with a longer 8-32 screw + lock nut. That engine ain't goin' anywhere without the rest of the airplane now [8D] Had a pretty stiff breeze blowing 90 degrees across the runway. It was a hoot watching it crab on in. A little kick of rudder just before touchdown was all it took. I still can't believe how slow this bird can go and still fly.
Old 01-16-2006, 09:24 PM
  #419  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Haha,I didnt intend an appology,I was just runnin my yap... I know you guys mean well with your advice,and your advice is what keeps me on here...
And with that said,I did indeed change my mind on the trexlers,in favor of the tougher Du-Bros you advised... I appreciate your advice GaGeeBees,as it made me look a little deeper into the subject before I made a costly mistake... So to that,I say Thank You...

About the FEMA starter,I didnt see a kit for the Saito 150... Will the 180 kit convert to my engine,or will I need to fabricate a part or two to make the installation?
I would really like to install this to my Hawk!...
Old 01-17-2006, 10:35 AM
  #420  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

SSEWARD, Thanks for the info. Please keep us posted with progress. I,m wondering how much thrust the RCV will generate compared to a standard 120. It seems that most guys who are flying with 120"s are happy with the performance. I spoke with Calvin at Keleo and he thinks it is a power house with that prop and it should be more than enough to pull the P6 around . I think I might be using one if things go good. As far as cooling, I think the intake scoop on the top of the cowling could be ducted to blow on the head. With the large exit opening, it should pull in pretty good. Jim G
Old 01-17-2006, 12:27 PM
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

HLFE41 adapter from Hobby Lobby will work on the Saito 180 that is the one I used on mine. I see it is not listed on the Hobby Lobby website so I'd call the folks at HL and ask them if they have a replacement or just forgot to list it.
Old 01-17-2006, 04:10 PM
  #422  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

saito 125 update.Is getting better and idles so low you almost cant kill it. I went to a 17-6 prop to replace the 16-7 the 17 is much better and the huge loops are there and although it not unlimited vertical it pulls pretty good, think ill just keeper under the cowl.
Old 01-17-2006, 06:51 PM
  #423  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Jim,
I finished the cowl last night. I opened up the scoop on the top and built a deflector inside to push the air down. The intake below the hub (which btw, was on the actual P-6e for the Oil cooler) already blows up in the right direction. I also did what Kelving from Keleo did and opened up the hole around the hub, especially since it needed to be done to clear the RCV hub anyway. This should allow for dirct airflow over the front of the engine and doesn't look bad at all. I also opened up the exhaust ports in preparation for the custom exhaust.

I'll try to post some Pics over the next couple of nights. If for some reason all this still doesn't provide enough cooling, I've hatched a more elaborate idea. Use the radiator as a scoop, open up some functional slots in it and build duct to bring the air inside the cowl and direct it over the engine. Don't think it would be to hard with all the space in that cowl, and I've already got something in mind, but I decided to wait to see if something that drastic is required.

I'm not at all worried about the RCV having plenty of power, the local RCV enthusiasts are using it on the GP super stearman with great results.

Steve

ORIGINAL: Ta-152

SSEWARD, Thanks for the info. Please keep us posted with progress. I,m wondering how much thrust the RCV will generate compared to a standard 120. It seems that most guys who are flying with 120"s are happy with the performance. I spoke with Calvin at Keleo and he thinks it is a power house with that prop and it should be more than enough to pull the P6 around . I think I might be using one if things go good. As far as cooling, I think the intake scoop on the top of the cowling could be ducted to blow on the head. With the large exit opening, it should pull in pretty good. Jim G
Old 01-17-2006, 08:05 PM
  #424  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

ORIGINAL: speedpro 1

saito 125 update.Is getting better and idles so low you almost cant kill it. I went to a 17-6 prop to replace the 16-7 the 17 is much better and the huge loops are there and although it not unlimited vertical it pulls pretty good, think ill just keeper under the cowl.
Now, that sounds encouraging! [sm=surprised.gif]
Thanks for posting that. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Do you think it might pull an 18-6 after some more running time?

Hows it do on fuel usage?
Old 01-17-2006, 08:27 PM
  #425  
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Default RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)

Here's the first pics of my cowl with the RCV installed. You can't really see the top scoop, but it's opened up and I built a deflector inside to push the air down over the engine. There's over 1/4" clearance all the way around the hub, which is of course the top of the cylinder on an RCV! I felt this would look better than opening up additional cooling slots, and it puts the air where it's needed. Last pic shows the APC 15.75x13 prop. It looks good on this model. One thing I noticed is how long the prop shaft is on the RCV. Don't know what I'm goint to do with that. I guess I could put a prop nut on, but I haven't crossed that bridge yet.

All I need is the exhaust from Keleo and I can finish up!

Steve

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