P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
12-20-2005, 09:05 AM
#126
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
I am writing Product Reviews on the GP Curtis P-6E Hawk for both R/C REPORT Magazine and one of the "other" online magazines.
I have been asked by both editors not to discuss the outcome of this particular project on any web forum such as this one.
This means that I am not allowed to tell you that the plane flys great and is well powered by an OS 120 four cycle.
It is absolutely forbidden for me to say that it loops and rolls smoothly and gracefully and that it will do all these maneuvers with only half power.
I cannot say anything about the ease of assembly, taking only 12 hours from opening the kit box until running the engine.
And, it is positively against the rules to show anyone a picture of this particular plane in flight, like the one here.
So, remember that you didn't hear anything from me, right?
I have been asked by both editors not to discuss the outcome of this particular project on any web forum such as this one.
This means that I am not allowed to tell you that the plane flys great and is well powered by an OS 120 four cycle.
It is absolutely forbidden for me to say that it loops and rolls smoothly and gracefully and that it will do all these maneuvers with only half power.
I cannot say anything about the ease of assembly, taking only 12 hours from opening the kit box until running the engine.
And, it is positively against the rules to show anyone a picture of this particular plane in flight, like the one here.
So, remember that you didn't hear anything from me, right?
12-20-2005, 11:23 AM
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Dick, you secret report is safe with us. Why how could the Pizza man find out? Okay, everyone, no discussion of this at the local Pizza Hut. I hear he has spies everywhere. 
Thanks Dick!!!
Rich
Thanks Dick!!!
Rich
12-20-2005, 03:09 PM
#131
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
I appreciate the link.... It did answer my questions on the pump issue... I guess it still all boils down to personal preference anyways... Ive decided to try my engine without the pump to start with,and will add one if I have any engine stability problems later on... The only thing that Im fretting is the tank size... Theres a whole lotta tank to pressurize for my Saito's little muffler,but I guess the fact that Im over sizing the engine should counterbalance the whole ordeal hopefully...
Well,I checked on my shipment status,and the packages are only about 100miles south of me,so I should defenately get the whole project rolling by tomorrow evening.... Now to just set and wait!
Later on, Josh
Well,I checked on my shipment status,and the packages are only about 100miles south of me,so I should defenately get the whole project rolling by tomorrow evening.... Now to just set and wait!
Later on, Josh
12-20-2005, 06:59 PM
#132
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hey IronicRCav8r,
I've decided to go RCV, mainly to save the cowling and to swing a big 3-blade (I've ordered a couple of 15.75x13s!) and I was looking back at your mounting pics. I can't imagine the RCV came with bolts long enough for those standoffs, so what did you use? I'm thinking of making mine more to the shape of the RCV mounting plate, but I'm concerned about the weight. Did you need any extra nose weight with the RCV? I'm thinking I might be able to get away with a heavier standoff if it still needs nose weight.
I'm one of those that believe in over-engineering!
Steve (the other one!)
I've decided to go RCV, mainly to save the cowling and to swing a big 3-blade (I've ordered a couple of 15.75x13s!) and I was looking back at your mounting pics. I can't imagine the RCV came with bolts long enough for those standoffs, so what did you use? I'm thinking of making mine more to the shape of the RCV mounting plate, but I'm concerned about the weight. Did you need any extra nose weight with the RCV? I'm thinking I might be able to get away with a heavier standoff if it still needs nose weight.
I'm one of those that believe in over-engineering!
Steve (the other one!)
12-20-2005, 08:53 PM
#133
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Steve (the other one!)
Thats a good one
seems like a lot of us are waiting for weather or engines. thought my Roto25 would be here today, but no luck. Now I'm off to mom's house for Christmas, so another week lost [
].
PS: The good Steve
Thats a good one
seems like a lot of us are waiting for weather or engines. thought my Roto25 would be here today, but no luck. Now I'm off to mom's house for Christmas, so another week lost [
].PS: The good Steve
12-20-2005, 09:24 PM
#136
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
SPLAIS...aka...the good Steve. Don't feel bad, at least you've seen yours! How do you think I feel walking by that blasted wrapped box knowing whats inside but not being able to see! It made me want to revert to my childhood days of peeking! I'm hoping to have the RCV tomorrow or Thursday, depending on if my LHS has it in stock. They are a dealer, just a matter if they actually have one. I'm putting Futaba 3010's all around, except for the throttle were I'll use a 3003 I have on hand.
Anyway, I'm off until January 3rd so I hope to have it assemble by the new year! I'll be posting pics.
Steve (the bad one!)
Anyway, I'm off until January 3rd so I hope to have it assemble by the new year! I'll be posting pics.
Steve (the bad one!)
12-21-2005, 12:06 AM
#137
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Those of you who are getting one of these for Christmas will have a very Merry Christmas. This thing is really nice! So far, my only complaints are that I would have liked the aileron servos on their side and covered with a hatch, and I would have liked the tailwheel in the scale location. Other than that, everything is going together nicely and the quality is first rate. And like Dick said, it goes together really fast.
In applying the markings, I didn't want all of the clear mylar around "ARMY" on the bottom of the wing, so I did things differently than called for in the instructions. In fact, I applied all the markings this way and was very pleased with the result.
First, I cut out the word ARMY from the markings sheet leaving approximately a half inch border. I then cut out each letter with a razor blade, Exacto knife, and straight edge, leaving approximately a 1/16 inch border around each letter. (I read somewhere that if you cut into the color the fuel will attack the color). I popped the letters out, pulled the clear mylar off the sheet that surrounded the letters, and placed the letters back in the locations where I had just cut them out. At this point, I also got rid of the material inside the letters A and R.
I then overlaid a slightly larger sheet of frisket film and lightly rubbed it down. (This is a low tac clear plastic sheet that artists use as masking material for air brushing). I peeled off the sheet that surrounded the letters and threw it away. What your are left with are the letters ARMY still perfectly aligned on the frisket film, but nothing else. The letters still have their protective backing attached at this point.
You can now experiment with the placement of the marking. The frisket film's low tac will let you reposition the marking several times until you are satisfied with the location. Once you are ready to place the marking, rub the top one inch of the frisket film with your finger to make sure it stays stuck, peel the remainder back on itself, remove the protective backing from the letters, and slowly roll the frisket film back down on the model rubbing the letters down with your finger as you go. You can then peel off the frisket and the letters stay stuck. Overall, it wasn't much work but the markings look much nicer and there aren't any bubbles.
By the way, as tempting as it is to use the line where the sheeting and the open bays meet to align the top of the word ARMY, it actually needs to be about 3/4" higher. Also, the U and the S are too close together. The frisket film made it easy to spread them out and yet keep them aligned. There also needs to be a period after U and S. I'll make those out of black trim tape later. When placing the Hawk marking, there is a seam in the OD Monocote that is perfect for aligning the tips of the wings.
In applying the markings, I didn't want all of the clear mylar around "ARMY" on the bottom of the wing, so I did things differently than called for in the instructions. In fact, I applied all the markings this way and was very pleased with the result.
First, I cut out the word ARMY from the markings sheet leaving approximately a half inch border. I then cut out each letter with a razor blade, Exacto knife, and straight edge, leaving approximately a 1/16 inch border around each letter. (I read somewhere that if you cut into the color the fuel will attack the color). I popped the letters out, pulled the clear mylar off the sheet that surrounded the letters, and placed the letters back in the locations where I had just cut them out. At this point, I also got rid of the material inside the letters A and R.
I then overlaid a slightly larger sheet of frisket film and lightly rubbed it down. (This is a low tac clear plastic sheet that artists use as masking material for air brushing). I peeled off the sheet that surrounded the letters and threw it away. What your are left with are the letters ARMY still perfectly aligned on the frisket film, but nothing else. The letters still have their protective backing attached at this point.
You can now experiment with the placement of the marking. The frisket film's low tac will let you reposition the marking several times until you are satisfied with the location. Once you are ready to place the marking, rub the top one inch of the frisket film with your finger to make sure it stays stuck, peel the remainder back on itself, remove the protective backing from the letters, and slowly roll the frisket film back down on the model rubbing the letters down with your finger as you go. You can then peel off the frisket and the letters stay stuck. Overall, it wasn't much work but the markings look much nicer and there aren't any bubbles.
By the way, as tempting as it is to use the line where the sheeting and the open bays meet to align the top of the word ARMY, it actually needs to be about 3/4" higher. Also, the U and the S are too close together. The frisket film made it easy to spread them out and yet keep them aligned. There also needs to be a period after U and S. I'll make those out of black trim tape later. When placing the Hawk marking, there is a seam in the OD Monocote that is perfect for aligning the tips of the wings.
12-21-2005, 05:49 AM
#138
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Thats a pretty smooth way to lay the stickers! I should be getting mine in the mail today,so I should be ready for its first flight really soon... I hear its suposed to warm up a little this Christmas weekend,so you can guess what Im thinking! Haha,I know Im gonna get tied up or someting like that,but I might be able to still ge the plane on video atleast so you fellas have something to look at soon.... See ya for now,.... Josh L.
12-21-2005, 04:19 PM
#139
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Picked up my RCV SP-120 at the LHS today! I'm ordering the electronics today so I should have this all together a few days after Christmas! Can't Wait!
Steve
Steve
12-21-2005, 06:07 PM
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
CHASMAN, Didn't think I was gonna be here, but my trip to the UK got pushed back to Feb. The delema I have, is that I have to much new stuff for show and tell! I'm not complaining, and I didn't hit the lottery, I just had several long term projects get finished up over the last couple of Months! I'll have to load the car down for the meeting!
Steve
Steve
12-21-2005, 11:03 PM
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: pettit
It is absolutely forbidden for me to say that it loops and rolls smoothly and gracefully and that it will do all these maneuvers with only half power.
It is absolutely forbidden for me to say that it loops and rolls smoothly and gracefully and that it will do all these maneuvers with only half power.
Would that mean that you are not allowed to say that this aircraft would fly well powered by the .91 four stroke as shown in the Tower Hobbies ads??
12-21-2005, 11:24 PM
#143
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Has everyone so far required 40 ounces of engine and nose weight to balance this plane? I am also considering a First Place Engines 1.3 gasser. The weight is good and the size looks right (nice muffler, too). I have downloaded drawings of the engine for fit tests when I ransom my plane from the LHS.
12-22-2005, 06:58 AM
#144
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Yep, I really cannot say anything about the OS .91 four cycle.
Mainly because I have had no experience with that engine on that plane.
But I can speculate. That's allowed.
It MAY be enough power but not enough nose weight.
The plane is gonna weigh in the 13.5 to 14 pound range no matter what engine you use, within reason.
I like my noseweight to help spin the prop.
Mainly because I have had no experience with that engine on that plane.
But I can speculate. That's allowed.
It MAY be enough power but not enough nose weight.
The plane is gonna weigh in the 13.5 to 14 pound range no matter what engine you use, within reason.
I like my noseweight to help spin the prop.
12-22-2005, 09:36 AM
#145
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
RCV SP 1.20 engine users, beware of the muffler. Mine has completely stripped out from vibration. It's still on the test stand and I need to get a new muffler. The material is very soft, junk in my mind. I'm looking at putting a OS muffler on, same threads.
12-22-2005, 08:08 PM
#146
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Well,I recieved my Hawk yesterday... UPS delima sonce its so close to Christmas...
I have built the plane,and installed the saito 150... I gotta tell ya,I dont mind having to cut the cowl near as much as I thought,now that I have two big "Gold" valve covers to look at!... I am also happy to tell you that the saito 150 is just the perfect size just so happens,and the stock muffler fits inside the cowl completely!... I would have never guessed that I wouldnt have to cut an exhaust hole,but luckly I didnt have to...Im gonna post a few pics here in just a little while,and show some things that I did that might give you guys that hasnt built one yet a heads up on some things... I'll be sure to show how I tucked the muffler in the cowl also... Be back in a bit...
PS. I hope to get a flying video within the next day or so... So hang tight! Josh
I have built the plane,and installed the saito 150... I gotta tell ya,I dont mind having to cut the cowl near as much as I thought,now that I have two big "Gold" valve covers to look at!... I am also happy to tell you that the saito 150 is just the perfect size just so happens,and the stock muffler fits inside the cowl completely!... I would have never guessed that I wouldnt have to cut an exhaust hole,but luckly I didnt have to...Im gonna post a few pics here in just a little while,and show some things that I did that might give you guys that hasnt built one yet a heads up on some things... I'll be sure to show how I tucked the muffler in the cowl also... Be back in a bit...
PS. I hope to get a flying video within the next day or so... So hang tight! Josh
12-22-2005, 11:58 PM
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
i just got my new saito 125 to go in mine and it looks like the muffler on it will not fit unless i tilt the motor between inverted and horizonal.
12-23-2005, 01:24 AM
#148
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: Spad_man
RCV SP 1.20 engine users, beware of the muffler. Mine has completely stripped out from vibration. It's still on the test stand and I need to get a new muffler. The material is very soft, junk in my mind. I'm looking at putting a OS muffler on, same threads.
RCV SP 1.20 engine users, beware of the muffler. Mine has completely stripped out from vibration. It's still on the test stand and I need to get a new muffler. The material is very soft, junk in my mind. I'm looking at putting a OS muffler on, same threads.
Spad -- just email RCV support they will send you a new muffler -- I had problems with mine also -- The OS 91 FS muffler will fit the down pipe on the RCV also if you happen to have one of those laying around
12-23-2005, 08:15 AM
#149
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Ironic..did you need any nose weight with the RCV on Front? I'll be starting on mine in a couple of days and I hope to eventually get the custom exhaust from Keleo when it's done, so I was hoping there was some margin to add the exhaust when it becomes available.
I picked up my RCV Wednesday and realized I don't have the starting adapter. I'll check back with the LHS and see if they have them, if not, I may get creative and make my own!
Steve
I picked up my RCV Wednesday and realized I don't have the starting adapter. I'll check back with the LHS and see if they have them, if not, I may get creative and make my own!
Steve
12-23-2005, 08:27 AM
#150
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: sseward
Ironic..did you need any nose weight with the RCV on Front? I'll be starting on mine in a couple of days and I hope to eventually get the custom exhaust from Keleo when it's done, so I was hoping there was some margin to add the exhaust when it becomes available.
I picked up my RCV Wednesday and realized I don't have the starting adapter. I'll check back with the LHS and see if they have them, if not, I may get creative and make my own!
Steve
Ironic..did you need any nose weight with the RCV on Front? I'll be starting on mine in a couple of days and I hope to eventually get the custom exhaust from Keleo when it's done, so I was hoping there was some margin to add the exhaust when it becomes available.
I picked up my RCV Wednesday and realized I don't have the starting adapter. I'll check back with the LHS and see if they have them, if not, I may get creative and make my own!
Steve
