Yellow p40 retracts
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Yellow p40 retracts
Still having problems with these retracts..they look great and work well when in the ground I make sure that I work them a few times on the ground they work fine but it takes about 1/2 a sec before they come down..so ...I had 10 flights on my p40 I landed with the gears down 2 times the rest I had to belly land..fortunately NO DAMAGE...but Im pushing my luck...so far I spend more then 100.$ worth of props...getting sick of this * S*&T well today happened again no damage except for the prop so I took it apart I think I found the problem it has 6 screws holding it down I took one from the inside corner and it works..no hesitation...well will see next week...anyone else with the same problem?
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
The worse thing you can do is try to censor a true American especially after a bad day of flying that just hit me the wrong way MR BURLEY i could understand if that was offensive to anyone ,funny they did not say anything here.......I know it does not matter to you but I will no longer be at that site.
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
I read your post over there. But I don't get why being a TRUE AMERICAN as you call yourself, allows you to break the rules. I can hear it now. "Sorry I was speeding officer, but I'm a true AMERICAN, can you let me go?[&o] then you call the cop a Nazi. Ya, that'll get you off every time.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
What does breaking the law has to do with the word S%*t I dont know about you sir but as far as Im concerned its all has to do whats in your mind.I think you have the dirty mind and your name speaks for it self PUTZ...PS. I just figured you out....hehehe he is from California....I should have guessed that..
My apologies to fellow warbirds pilots...did not mean to get of the subject....
My apologies to fellow warbirds pilots...did not mean to get of the subject....
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
ORIGINAL: serpente
I just figured you out....hehehe he is from California....I should have guessed that..
I just figured you out....hehehe he is from California....I should have guessed that..
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
ORIGINAL: serpente
That does not deserve an answer...but I had a good come back for that if we were in another forum....
That does not deserve an answer...but I had a good come back for that if we were in another forum....
well, for whats it worth, I hope you get your gear problems solved. other than that, you should
however work on your online anger management problems
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
ORIGINAL: serpente
PS. I just figured you out....hehehe he is from California....I should have guessed that..
PS. I just figured you out....hehehe he is from California....I should have guessed that..
randy
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
In 1989 Californians put aVote in for the house (quote) We of the United States Of America )Should apology to the Japanese government for the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the dropping of the( A) bomb......C'on if your a veteran get out of California...This is my last letter.
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
ORIGINAL: serpente
In 1989 Californians put aVote in for the house (quote) We of the United States Of America )Should apology to the Japanese government for the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the dropping of the( A) bomb......C'on if your a veteran get out of California...This is my last letter.
In 1989 Californians put aVote in for the house (quote) We of the United States Of America )Should apology to the Japanese government for the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the dropping of the( A) bomb......C'on if your a veteran get out of California...This is my last letter.
good luck with your P40
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
ORIGINAL: serpente
In 1989 Californians put aVote in for the house (quote) We of the United States Of America )Should apology to the Japanese government for the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the dropping of the( A) bomb......C'on if your a veteran get out of California...This is my last letter.
In 1989 Californians put aVote in for the house (quote) We of the United States Of America )Should apology to the Japanese government for the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the dropping of the( A) bomb......C'on if your a veteran get out of California...This is my last letter.
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Gentlemen,
Please be so kind as to take your personal argument offline.
Please resist the urge to curse, flame, degrade, insult or embarrass someone in your post. We encourage the free flow of your ideas, but believe that they can be communicated (and received) much more effectively if you keep things civil. If you have to vent, take it offline. We carefully monitor posts and will ban individuals who engage in offensive conduct within the forums. Thanks
Please be so kind as to take your personal argument offline.
Please resist the urge to curse, flame, degrade, insult or embarrass someone in your post. We encourage the free flow of your ideas, but believe that they can be communicated (and received) much more effectively if you keep things civil. If you have to vent, take it offline. We carefully monitor posts and will ban individuals who engage in offensive conduct within the forums. Thanks
#18
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Serp need more detail in order to give you help .
1)is the hesitation when leaving the well or going from straight leg to the well or both ?
Some times the slightest deviance in the retract rails become a problem once the retracts are mounted and screwed very tightly . The variance can cause binding in the internal workings of the gear . It dose not matter if the rails were factory build or not . One way to check is to loosen the screws on the mounts , try to hold the gear lightly while they go thru there operating mode .
If this is the problem let me know , I may have a fix for you
good luck
Lou
1)is the hesitation when leaving the well or going from straight leg to the well or both ?
Some times the slightest deviance in the retract rails become a problem once the retracts are mounted and screwed very tightly . The variance can cause binding in the internal workings of the gear . It dose not matter if the rails were factory build or not . One way to check is to loosen the screws on the mounts , try to hold the gear lightly while they go thru there operating mode .
If this is the problem let me know , I may have a fix for you
good luck
Lou
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Based on what you described, "I took one from the inside corner and it works", I think what LDM says has some merit. If that is the case, you may try to "shim" the gear with some thin washers between the gear & rail at the screw you removed.
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Thanks guys I was getting frustrated to many props for me to go on I paid allot of $ for this retracts you would think it would work right (LDM its like a bind like something is holding it down when i hit the swict it takes a sec. then I hear a clunk and the gear comes down.as I loosen the bold the clunk gets softer when I remove two bolts no clunk
#22
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Ok Serp you may have a uneven rail . The easy quick way is shims as stated earlier , either washers , or very thin ply .
The more complicated but surgically precise way is a method I used when building from scratch or bashing a arf . Considering the expense of this kit you can easyily test this method to see how it works . Either way the method gose like this
1)get a good solid wood puddy (one that resist cracking and can hold pressure
2)get good saran wrap
3)place even amounts on each rail -only work one side of the plane at a time (thin but enought to cover the rails in a even quality coverage ) place the saran wrap over the rails loosely
4)you replace the gear pressing them into the puddy and you should see the gears make there mark into to puddy as if there molding the rails for there future home
5)carefully have the wings positioned so that the gear will set in the puddy over the saran wrap (remember the gear never actually touches the puddy -its only molding its impression into the rails thru the warp .
6)once dry remove the gear , remove the wrap , clean up rought spots and you should have have a perfact impression to reset the gear .
7) I have used this method multiple time with the robart 615 because that gear is very subject to binding due to the weak structure of the gear legs .
8) again if your uncomfortable with this method you can easily test it by makeing test rails .It truely is a way of making any hairline variences go away
The more complicated but surgically precise way is a method I used when building from scratch or bashing a arf . Considering the expense of this kit you can easyily test this method to see how it works . Either way the method gose like this
1)get a good solid wood puddy (one that resist cracking and can hold pressure
2)get good saran wrap
3)place even amounts on each rail -only work one side of the plane at a time (thin but enought to cover the rails in a even quality coverage ) place the saran wrap over the rails loosely
4)you replace the gear pressing them into the puddy and you should see the gears make there mark into to puddy as if there molding the rails for there future home
5)carefully have the wings positioned so that the gear will set in the puddy over the saran wrap (remember the gear never actually touches the puddy -its only molding its impression into the rails thru the warp .
6)once dry remove the gear , remove the wrap , clean up rought spots and you should have have a perfact impression to reset the gear .
7) I have used this method multiple time with the robart 615 because that gear is very subject to binding due to the weak structure of the gear legs .
8) again if your uncomfortable with this method you can easily test it by makeing test rails .It truely is a way of making any hairline variences go away
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RE: Yellow p40 retracts
Serp,
My gear seems to be operating fine, except I am having one heck of a time with getting the main gear door wires set to fully close and open without the wheel hitting the door on opening. The springs are set right, however I run out of slack before I hit the door.
Any chance you could post a few pictures of your setup?
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Craig
My gear seems to be operating fine, except I am having one heck of a time with getting the main gear door wires set to fully close and open without the wheel hitting the door on opening. The springs are set right, however I run out of slack before I hit the door.
Any chance you could post a few pictures of your setup?
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Craig