H9 Spitfire Build
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
H9 Spitfire Build
Fellow H9 Spitfire owners,
I picked it up this afternoon (10/25/06) and did a quick once over. Hangar Nine packaging is nice and tight with no noticable damage to the box and contents.
The covering has absolutley no wrinkles and all the parts are straight as an arrow without warpage.
The firewall is sort of dovetailed into the front end of the fuse and there is a series of triangular stock neatly done without much of any reisdual hot glue - looks like it should be pretty easy to epoxy/fiberglass what's there to reinforce the joints without much of a problem.
Someone in either this thread or the other thread on this H9 model referred to the squared upper fuse and squared off cowl as being "non-scale" in appearance. This doesn't bother me at all considering the difference in cost of the "scale" model and the H9 version.
The only thing I'm a litttle concerned about (and I'm no expert in these matters) is that the rear end of the fuse by the tailfeathers looks PRETTY "skinny". I don't know much about the "Correct Scale" dimensions, I just hope it's strong enough structurally to handle anything that my already proven Saito 100 can dish out and my not so experienced thumbs on the sticks.
In other words....So far, so good.
I'll let you all know how the build goes.....probably this Friday ---my day off and rain is expected.....Perfect day for putting together an ARF.
root
I picked it up this afternoon (10/25/06) and did a quick once over. Hangar Nine packaging is nice and tight with no noticable damage to the box and contents.
The covering has absolutley no wrinkles and all the parts are straight as an arrow without warpage.
The firewall is sort of dovetailed into the front end of the fuse and there is a series of triangular stock neatly done without much of any reisdual hot glue - looks like it should be pretty easy to epoxy/fiberglass what's there to reinforce the joints without much of a problem.
Someone in either this thread or the other thread on this H9 model referred to the squared upper fuse and squared off cowl as being "non-scale" in appearance. This doesn't bother me at all considering the difference in cost of the "scale" model and the H9 version.
The only thing I'm a litttle concerned about (and I'm no expert in these matters) is that the rear end of the fuse by the tailfeathers looks PRETTY "skinny". I don't know much about the "Correct Scale" dimensions, I just hope it's strong enough structurally to handle anything that my already proven Saito 100 can dish out and my not so experienced thumbs on the sticks.
In other words....So far, so good.
I'll let you all know how the build goes.....probably this Friday ---my day off and rain is expected.....Perfect day for putting together an ARF.
root
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Macho Grande, KS
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
I agree with you that the sport scale can be flown with as much pride as an expensive more accurate scale. I'll wager that the tail group will remain there if the plane is flown as a warbird. When you say "handle what the Saito 100 can dish out", hope that doesn't mean fast tumbling snap rolls. That's what the Pizzaz or Twist are for.
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Macho Grande, KS
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Root's Saito 100 weighs 1.5 lbs and your G20 weighs a little over 2.5 lbs. This will make the plane fly extremely heavy and you'll have very little cowl left after clearing the carb, muffler and head. It's more of a .75 to .90 size plane. You also have to consider ground clearance for a 15" prop. Check to see if there's room for the rudder and elevator servos at the tail; probably have to put the battery further back also. It's a good idea to keep the motor attached thru most of the flight, look behind the firewall to see where you can reinforce with epoxy and triangle stock.
#5
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Hey Taken Down,
I agree with HuskerBoy/Randy on the G20 being a little too much as far as excessive cowl cutting, wieght, power, and prop size.
A flyin' buddy of mine has the G20 in a 120 size CMP Hellcat and he needed 2 batteries - one for the receiver and a large/high mAh one for the electronic ignition - because it seems to consume an unusual amount of power.
I'm definately using a seperate battery for the retracts and the Rx and mounting them up front on either side of the fuel tank. That worked out well in order to get the CG just right in my H9 P-47.
The H9 Specs are about the same as the P-47 and everyone in my club agrees that the Saito 100 and the P-47 are a perfect match as far as scale performance. Definately no mean fast snap rolls - I don't have the chops for that sort of flying anyway.
root
I agree with HuskerBoy/Randy on the G20 being a little too much as far as excessive cowl cutting, wieght, power, and prop size.
A flyin' buddy of mine has the G20 in a 120 size CMP Hellcat and he needed 2 batteries - one for the receiver and a large/high mAh one for the electronic ignition - because it seems to consume an unusual amount of power.
I'm definately using a seperate battery for the retracts and the Rx and mounting them up front on either side of the fuel tank. That worked out well in order to get the CG just right in my H9 P-47.
The H9 Specs are about the same as the P-47 and everyone in my club agrees that the Saito 100 and the P-47 are a perfect match as far as scale performance. Definately no mean fast snap rolls - I don't have the chops for that sort of flying anyway.
root
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
I'm thinking about buying this Spit. I have other H9 warbirds and all of the tail feathers are "skinny". All of the firewalls should be strengthened on all of the H9 warbirds and if you're going to use more power than a Saito 100 (I use YS 110 or 91's) you will need to strengthen the horiz. stab by inserting a carbon fiber rod through the stab. This is not as hard as it sounds to do. Simply remove the covering from the bottom of the stab., use a long drill and drill a straight hole throuth the middle of the stab., insert the rod, use a little thin CA at each point where the rod toches the balsa and re-cover the bottom of the stab.
I recommend using more than a Saito 100. Saito 100's are great motors and I have 3 or 4 but, to make this plane a whole lot of fun, I recommend a YS 91 or 110 and just do the mods and you will absolutely have a plane that will be your favorite plane to fly.
You can dwnload my World Models .60 Zero with a YS .91AC video here: http://www.ri-aeromodelers.com/photos/photosmain.htm
I did this on another .60 size Spit.
I recommend using more than a Saito 100. Saito 100's are great motors and I have 3 or 4 but, to make this plane a whole lot of fun, I recommend a YS 91 or 110 and just do the mods and you will absolutely have a plane that will be your favorite plane to fly.
You can dwnload my World Models .60 Zero with a YS .91AC video here: http://www.ri-aeromodelers.com/photos/photosmain.htm
I did this on another .60 size Spit.
#8
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
The above pics are of the rear stab from my Sportsman Aviation Spitfire. This was a great Spit. I lost it when I ran it out of fuel and deadstick landed it in an unforgiving part of my field.
The H9 Spit will be better with the flaps and the colors look better. I use LustreKote flat clear to make the covering a flat and the plane more realistic.
The H9 Spit will be better with the flaps and the colors look better. I use LustreKote flat clear to make the covering a flat and the plane more realistic.
#9
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Actually I was referring to the fuselage being sort of skinny by the tailfeathers, not the tailfeathers themselves.
Last night I looked the plane over inside and out and there are 9 stringers and possibly (i'm at work at the moment and away from the plane) 9 formers so the "Skinnyness" didnt bother me as much.
I have seen on the H9 hellcat thread that a horizontal stab gave way and the guy recommended a mod to beef it up.
I know what you are saying about the YS91 compared to the Saito 100....I had one in an goldberg ultimate and it was (crashed with a bent prop shaft at the moment) absolutely a killer engine that I would not hesitate to recommend the firewall tri stock reinfocement. It has the potential to rip off the factory glue gunned firewall at a full throttle surge. I could not even imagine what a YS110 would do structurally.
How much wieght does / will the Lustercoat flat clear add to the planes overall wieght ? How much do you need to coat it enough?
A friend of mine used a synthetic steel wool on the top surfaces of his big H9 P47 and said that it leaves your fingerprint oils on the surfaces but they can be wiped off.
I actually got used to the shiny look afdter a few beers last night. I imagine maintanence wiping off the 20/20 fuel from the muffler would be a heck of a lot easier. I suppose if I only dulled the top surfaces either synth wool or lustercoat flat, I'd have the best of both worlds.
Has anyone out there in Spitty land actually did either way??
root
Last night I looked the plane over inside and out and there are 9 stringers and possibly (i'm at work at the moment and away from the plane) 9 formers so the "Skinnyness" didnt bother me as much.
I have seen on the H9 hellcat thread that a horizontal stab gave way and the guy recommended a mod to beef it up.
I know what you are saying about the YS91 compared to the Saito 100....I had one in an goldberg ultimate and it was (crashed with a bent prop shaft at the moment) absolutely a killer engine that I would not hesitate to recommend the firewall tri stock reinfocement. It has the potential to rip off the factory glue gunned firewall at a full throttle surge. I could not even imagine what a YS110 would do structurally.
How much wieght does / will the Lustercoat flat clear add to the planes overall wieght ? How much do you need to coat it enough?
A friend of mine used a synthetic steel wool on the top surfaces of his big H9 P47 and said that it leaves your fingerprint oils on the surfaces but they can be wiped off.
I actually got used to the shiny look afdter a few beers last night. I imagine maintanence wiping off the 20/20 fuel from the muffler would be a heck of a lot easier. I suppose if I only dulled the top surfaces either synth wool or lustercoat flat, I'd have the best of both worlds.
Has anyone out there in Spitty land actually did either way??
root
#12
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Here it is ......hope it helps....works like a charm...use at least a 1000 mAh battery pack...some retract servos won't run on 6Volts ...only 4.8V... so make sure by checking the specs.
#14
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
TD,
If your field has a pretty flat smooth and short cut grass runway, and the landings aren't hard, you should be fine with the factory retracts that come with this Spit. Occasionally you might have to bend them back into the welds but overall especially money wise, these should do.
root
p.s. it looks like it's gonna be a non rainy day off today - so I might just have to fly instead of build.
If your field has a pretty flat smooth and short cut grass runway, and the landings aren't hard, you should be fine with the factory retracts that come with this Spit. Occasionally you might have to bend them back into the welds but overall especially money wise, these should do.
root
p.s. it looks like it's gonna be a non rainy day off today - so I might just have to fly instead of build.
#17
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Here's some that are advertised on the horizon website and the link to the page with 25 jpegs.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN4250
root
ps-Sorry ---didn't get a chance to assemble the spit today...I flew instead seeing how it's not gonna be flyin' weather for a few days here in Jersey with a nor'easter comin this way starting tonite.
root
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN4250
root
ps-Sorry ---didn't get a chance to assemble the spit today...I flew instead seeing how it's not gonna be flyin' weather for a few days here in Jersey with a nor'easter comin this way starting tonite.
root
#18
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Air retracts are great but you can use Robart Mechanicals with Robostruts and do just as well and save yourself some $$. I would use a Saito 125 or YS 110. A Saito 100 (I have 3-4) is a great motor but, I always have a whole lot more fun with my .60 size warbirds with either of the above mentioned motors.
#19
Banned
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
The difference in power and fuel costs can play an important role in chosing what engine is best for you personally.
I have a couple of Saito 100's and they are WAY less costly to run as my friend's Saito 125.
The difference in the YS 91 and the YS 110 is also dramatic as far as I can tell from having a fine tuned YS91 and experieencing it's fuel efficiency--Which was for the record "the BEST " of all in its power class and fuel consumption.
I can imagine if cost was NOT as much of an issue (like it was previous to 2006) which it HAS turned out to be recently (for me myself and I), the YS 110 or Saito 125 would be the absolute border of maximum power to structural forgiveness for a 60 size ARF ....
It's major fun, as always, to overpower the airframe "gettin out of" self induced stall situations that require extra torrque/balls requirements to rescue a musshy, no lift left moment or, for just plain FAST "emotional" blazing speed, unlimited vertical, defy the elements- sort of flying.
In other words, if you can find a tuned YS91, that would be a beautiful thing as far as power to $$ pocket ratio....a Saito 100 would be almost as pretty...power to $$pocket-ratio speaking. Just my opinion.
root
ps enuf talk...I'm starting the build tomorrow since the winds are gusting close to 40+ MPH right now .
I have a couple of Saito 100's and they are WAY less costly to run as my friend's Saito 125.
The difference in the YS 91 and the YS 110 is also dramatic as far as I can tell from having a fine tuned YS91 and experieencing it's fuel efficiency--Which was for the record "the BEST " of all in its power class and fuel consumption.
I can imagine if cost was NOT as much of an issue (like it was previous to 2006) which it HAS turned out to be recently (for me myself and I), the YS 110 or Saito 125 would be the absolute border of maximum power to structural forgiveness for a 60 size ARF ....
It's major fun, as always, to overpower the airframe "gettin out of" self induced stall situations that require extra torrque/balls requirements to rescue a musshy, no lift left moment or, for just plain FAST "emotional" blazing speed, unlimited vertical, defy the elements- sort of flying.
In other words, if you can find a tuned YS91, that would be a beautiful thing as far as power to $$ pocket ratio....a Saito 100 would be almost as pretty...power to $$pocket-ratio speaking. Just my opinion.
root
ps enuf talk...I'm starting the build tomorrow since the winds are gusting close to 40+ MPH right now .
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Centennial, CO,
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
A friend of mine got his from Horizon yesterday and I got to see it this afternoon. Very impressive covering job. Not a wrinkle anywhere. The flush gear doors and split flaps really raise the "coolness" factor. I fly a H9 p-47 with a RCV 91CD swinging a 13x8 3-blade. Our field is at 6000 ft and the engine flys the P-47 just fine at this elevation. After seeing my p-47 fly he ordered the RCV and will put it in the spit. The only holes in the cowl will be for cooling and the muffler. I bet he has the spit in the air later this coming week.
#24
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Picked up the Spitfire on Friday and have been working the past couple of day's on it. Have the wing basically done and today got the fuselage started. I am mounting a YS 91. Hope to have it in the air this coming weekend. Will give you the flight report when the maiden takes place. Here are a few pictures of my progress so far.
#25
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Spring City,
PA
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Thanks proulxlaw, this is my first scale attempt and I would like to get it right. I'm considering a cockpit and pilot but don't know the scale of the Spitfire. If someone can help here it would be helpful.